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Car Care: Controlled experiment - test gloss and durability of the top paint finishes

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I don't want to sound defensive, but can you cut me some slack? I'm not pretending that this is some reliable mathematical model and never have.

It would be great to know the chemistry of each product, but I'm neither a mathematician nor a chemist, just an buyer trying to determine the reliability of the manufacturers claims and the extent of the hype about their products. And good luck getting any data from the makers about what they put in this stuff. Although they don't hesitate to make some very wild claims about their product chemistries, I doubt they'll reveal anything that a scientist would find acceptable.

The test I've constructed was the best I could to do simulate what we experience with these products. As a consumer my concerns are largely three: how much to they improve the gloss and depth of the appearance of the paint, how long does the improvement last, and what kind of protection is provided for the surface? The latter, as I've said, I can't answer. The first two are what I'm trying to determine. I've invested a huge amount of my own time and money in this experiment. Yes, with better instrumentation and a better experimental design, we might get more reliable results. But have you looked at the so-called tests that are out there? Mine may be flawed, but it is a step in the right direction.

In the end if I just satisfy my own curiosity I'll be happy. I'll buy the products for my Model S that the tests reveal are superior. Everybody else can do whatever they want.

I think your results will be infinitely more reliable than the product claims/marketing, or the opinion of a detailer (I used to run a detailing company, we ALL have our prejudiced opinions of products based on all sorts of things, such as what freebies they give me, ease of application, profit margin for me - i.e. nothing that benefits the end user!). I've already gone with Opticoat, and I'm impressed enough not to change my mind for as long as the finish lasts, but I still want to see what your results are, and do appreciate the fact that you've put a lot of time, and money into making it as fair as possible.
 
The next set of results are in. As it turned out my earlier calculations had an error in the math regarding the initial baseline gloss of the test panels. That's all been corrected. I'll post the new, corrected spreadsheet later tonight or tomorrow night but for now I wanted to report the results.

Glare Professional Polish continues to out perform all of the tested products, coming out on top again. So not only does this product have very high initial gloss but the gloss endurance seems quite good. Here are the top four products for gloss rating in this round of tests (eight weeks after the first):

Glare Professional Polish
22ple Vx1 Pro Signature Glass Coat
Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection/Midnight Sun Detailer
CQuartz Ceramic Quartz Paint Protection/Reload Spray Sealant

The correction to the math put the Blackfire in a much more favorable position, as its test panel had the initial lowest gloss of all of the test panels used.

As my Model S will finally be delivered in 2-3 weeks, I'm not going to continue the frequency of these tests. I'll take measurement every six weeks (instead of every two) until the end of the summer.

For now, I hope this exercise has been useful to other owners. In my case, I've satisfied my curiosity. When my car is delivered it will go straight to a detailer for an application of Glare Professional Polish and I'll continue to use it very three of four months. Before these tests I'd had never even heard of Glare and I was quite sure I'd use HD Nitro Seal, Zaino, or Klasse. So for me, the tests changed everything. I'm giving up on Zaino, to which I was a devoted user. But it did not perform well on the tests, so I can't justify continuing its use.
 
Artsci
Thanks so much for your hard work-following you closely as I will be likely following closely in your footsteps interns of modification. Was also planning on doing some additional sound isolation with Dynamat and Quietpaint. Quick question, what are your thoughts on Opiticoat-have used it on my last 3 cars with great results. The shine may not be as high gloss but the longevity and look is impressive. Your thoughts and guidance would be most appreciated. Hoping to take delivery of my P85 green/tan in mid to late May.
 
artsci, great work. Is the Glare Professional Polish just a polish or a wax too? It is one supposed to wax with something else and then Glare professional?

Secondly, seems like you are targeting these for Black or Sunset Red / dark colors. How would the top 2-3 of these work on the Tesla Standard White?
 
Artsci
Thanks so much for your hard work-following you closely as I will be likely following closely in your footsteps interns of modification. Was also planning on doing some additional sound isolation with Dynamat and Quietpaint. Quick question, what are your thoughts on Opiticoat-have used it on my last 3 cars with great results. The shine may not be as high gloss but the longevity and look is impressive. Your thoughts and guidance would be most appreciated. Hoping to take delivery of my P85 green/tan in mid to late May.


The Opticoat has performed very well. With the results corrected for the error noted ealier, it was number 1 in gloss for the first test, and #2 in the second and third tests. It dropped to #5 in the current test, but given the very small differences, that wouldn't concern me. Overall, I'd rate it one of the top three performers across all the tests, along with the Glare Professional and a toss up between the 22ple and Blackfire Wet Diamond.

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artsci, great work. Is the Glare Professional Polish just a polish or a wax too? It is one supposed to wax with something else and then Glare professional?

Secondly, seems like you are targeting these for Black or Sunset Red / dark colors. How would the top 2-3 of these work on the Tesla Standard White?

The Glare is a two-coat polish. Technically it's not a wax. It goes on the bare clear coat surface -- two coats initially and nothing needed before hand.

Yes, I tested for red. So I don't know if the performance of these products on white would be different. I have to imagine they'd be the same.
 
@Treker56--Glare Professional is a paint sealant that you use as a polish and wax.

I just finished applying it to my three month old Model S. Glare recommends you use their Ultra Wash as the first step. The second step is determined by the quality of your current finish. If there aren't any spider webs or paint defects, they recommend Glare MicroFinish. The next step is applying the Professional as a polish and the third step is applying the Professional as a wax which entails applying a thin coat to the entire car and allowing it to sit for 30 minutes before removing it. The Glare Professional then needs 24 hours to cure before it can be exposed to water. It took me a full day to complete all the steps but I think it looks great on my car.
 
@Treker56--Glare Professional is a paint sealant that you use as a polish and wax.

I just finished applying it to my three month old Model S. Glare recommends you use their Ultra Wash as the first step. The second step is determined by the quality of your current finish. If there aren't any spider webs or paint defects, they recommend Glare MicroFinish. The next step is applying the Professional as a polish and the third step is applying the Professional as a wax which entails applying a thin coat to the entire car and allowing it to sit for 30 minutes before removing it. The Glare Professional then needs 24 hours to cure before it can be exposed to water. It took me a full day to complete all the steps but I think it looks great on my car.

Thanks for those details -- now I know what to do!
 
@Treker56--Glare Professional is a paint sealant that you use as a polish and wax.

I just finished applying it to my three month old Model S. Glare recommends you use their Ultra Wash as the first step. The second step is determined by the quality of your current finish. If there aren't any spider webs or paint defects, they recommend Glare MicroFinish. The next step is applying the Professional as a polish and the third step is applying the Professional as a wax which entails applying a thin coat to the entire car and allowing it to sit for 30 minutes before removing it. The Glare Professional then needs 24 hours to cure before it can be exposed to water. It took me a full day to complete all the steps but I think it looks great on my car.


Thanks for the details! So it should work well with Standard White as well?
 
@Treker56--Glare Professional is a paint sealant that you use as a polish and wax.

I just finished applying it to my three month old Model S. Glare recommends you use their Ultra Wash as the first step. The second step is determined by the quality of your current finish. If there aren't any spider webs or paint defects, they recommend Glare MicroFinish. The next step is applying the Professional as a polish and the third step is applying the Professional as a wax which entails applying a thin coat to the entire car and allowing it to sit for 30 minutes before removing it. The Glare Professional then needs 24 hours to cure before it can be exposed to water. It took me a full day to complete all the steps but I think it looks great on my car.

I just checked. The Glare MicroFinish is a compound with very tiny abrasive particles. There's no need to use this on a new car. It would be better to clay bar (although that isn't even necessary) to remove any minor surface imperfections then apply the Glare Professional.
 
I just checked. The Glare MicroFinish is a compound with very tiny abrasive particles. There's no need to use this on a new car. It would be better to clay bar (although that isn't even necessary) to remove any minor surface imperfections then apply the Glare Professional.

I think the reason for the Microfinish is to remove any wax or polish applied at the factory prior to shipping.
 
Ordering my glare products now! Is it necessary to remove wax when its brand new?

from my Samsung galaxy s3

For most sealants, it's best to remove any residue to get to the bare clear coat. That includes wax and oils commonly used in compounds and polishes. Who knows what was put on your car prior to delivery. I'd not risk having a botched sealant application.

Better spend a few minutes washing and wiping away anything that would interfere with your sealant. Otherwise, removing the sealant and starting over is likely to take way more time.
 
On mine they put lots of scratches and swirl marks :(

That's why I'll be asking Tesla to do no detailing of my car before its delivered. I want the car as it came out of the factory, untouched after testing. I'll have my detailer do everything: wash to remove any dirt or residue from shipping, clay bar to remove any surface imperfections, then application of the Glare. That way I know the job will be done to my standards.
 
On mine they put lots of scratches and swirl marks :(

Mine too. I did a factory pickup back in December. Mine didn't have too many scratches, but was full of holograms and swirls. Had to do a full paint correction before applying a sealant. However, I did not have to use an aggressive compound, started with a mild polish and that seemed to be good enough to remove the swirls, followed by a finish polish.
 
How long is the Glare Protectant supposed to last before your next application? I've read the 22PLE is supposed to last 18-24 months.

5 years when done correectly and handwashed with Glare Ultrawash. I used Glare on my 2000 model Honda Accord in 2006, and it needs a new polish now... Back in 2006 I used 3-4 days to use all the steps to make it look like a car I had never seen. Deep wet look.

I am definately using Glare on my ModelS!