Yuh, this is what was meant by my post just above.
{mutter, mutter...ignorant savages... mutter, mutter}
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Charge port door sensor fault
- Thread starter lmyamen
- Start date
{mutter, mutter...ignorant savages... mutter, mutter}
There is a drain tube in the charge port area already. Your is clogged and can be cleared easily. I used a can of compressed air that I had to clean my computers with. Spray down the tube and run some water and it will drip from behind your rear wheel area.
mrElbe
Active Member
Thank you for your correction> Once I removed the tail light and attached charge port door, I saw the drainage grommet. Poking a coat hanger wire into it restored the drainage. But the damage had been done. using a Dremel wheel I opened the plastic motor housing and found corrosion on the sensor circuit board. I purchased a replacement door from Tesla today.
Mine just failed too. 2014 P85DL there is no explanation of how to replace it yourself. Did you cut the power to it. Or shut the car completely down ? I’m an experienced auto electrical and electronics guy. But I’m cautious around high voltage. What exactly did you guys do and how ? Mine the door just broke entirely after several weeks of saying it was open when it’s not.
mrElbe
Active Member
In order to replace the door you will have to remove the charge port and the tail light. I played it semi dangerously. I did not cut power assuming the contactors would not close. They should only close if signal from the charge port is sent by plugging in a charging connector. I also placed a rubber glove over the HV wires just in case. Most difficult operation is getting at the fastening nuts of the tail light. They are buried deep in there and you are working in the dark. A magnetic socket or driver is advisable.
There are several YouTube videos on how to remove the charge port.
Same, I did not cut the power nor did the Tesla Tech that originally diagnosed my car. took about 15 mins to complete the job start to finish not difficult. Note - as stated above tail light nuts are buried behind deep into the panel. Also charge port HV cables are little difficult to manipulate to get the port in and out. just take your time and you will get it.
mrElbe
Active Member
The cables are easier to handle if you loosen the bracket holding them to the body.
I've been having the a similar problem with my car going into PARK on its own and not letting me put it in drive then showing the error "UNABLE TO DRIVE, Remove Charge Cable"; I will try cleaning the car's port with q-tips. I hear it might be a moisture thing with all Teslas and their charge ports. I have a Service call tomorrow.
I have this error now, can drive and able to charge but the door is having a mind of it’s own
Tried to look under the panels this morning to verify is the door removable as DIY. It is, here is my steps to go through (with the help of repair manual).
You need to remove the charge port in order to get the door and taillight assembly out. Tesla is insisting to disconnect both 12V and HV Fireman loop to work on the orange HV cables but you can remove the port without disconnecting the cables. I have GEN2 port (EU version).
There are four screws holding the port on car and two screws and a nut holding the HV cable bracket, pointed here:
Taillight is attached by three nuts, 8mm. They are hidden behind body section and requires wrench extender, also remove the patches covering the holes:
As the motor for the door is attached to the light you need to twist and move the light towards the front of the car, try not to brake small plastic edge right under the door hinge:
Now the panels you need to remove to get there. Tesla manual advise to remove also the floor cover but if you just set the side panel edges back under the floor cover, you don’t need to do so. Some models have additional wirings behind but mine did not, so here they are:
This trunk side trim is quite large and has mouldings to cover the lower sections as well. Oh before that remove the C pillar panel:
Tried to look under the panels this morning to verify is the door removable as DIY. It is, here is my steps to go through (with the help of repair manual).
You need to remove the charge port in order to get the door and taillight assembly out. Tesla is insisting to disconnect both 12V and HV Fireman loop to work on the orange HV cables but you can remove the port without disconnecting the cables. I have GEN2 port (EU version).
There are four screws holding the port on car and two screws and a nut holding the HV cable bracket, pointed here:
Taillight is attached by three nuts, 8mm. They are hidden behind body section and requires wrench extender, also remove the patches covering the holes:
As the motor for the door is attached to the light you need to twist and move the light towards the front of the car, try not to brake small plastic edge right under the door hinge:
Now the panels you need to remove to get there. Tesla manual advise to remove also the floor cover but if you just set the side panel edges back under the floor cover, you don’t need to do so. Some models have additional wirings behind but mine did not, so here they are:
This trunk side trim is quite large and has mouldings to cover the lower sections as well. Oh before that remove the C pillar panel:
Today was delivered new door with motor and I was able to change it.
Much quicker work thought, and if you know the drill there is one section that can be skipped - that trunk sill panel. It has hook like knobs at the lower section so if you haven’t broke them here is a photo how to get the single hook/knob attached to the side garnish trim off:
Although Tesla warns that installation might need service computer adjustments, I was able to get it work. At least all section where there is a button (also Tesla’s Wall connector) to toggle the door open/close was working fine. I have not yet driven. One note before installing it back, there is this drain hole you need to check.
I made one extra opening (as it’s aluminium) to make sure the water will get down. This green plastic wire is for freeing the way. I used simple tools, no drilling or such...
And second note is not to forget adjusting the gap between lower section of taillight and body, Tesla insist to use 1mm feeler but similar plastic item will fork fine:
Much quicker work thought, and if you know the drill there is one section that can be skipped - that trunk sill panel. It has hook like knobs at the lower section so if you haven’t broke them here is a photo how to get the single hook/knob attached to the side garnish trim off:
Although Tesla warns that installation might need service computer adjustments, I was able to get it work. At least all section where there is a button (also Tesla’s Wall connector) to toggle the door open/close was working fine. I have not yet driven. One note before installing it back, there is this drain hole you need to check.
I made one extra opening (as it’s aluminium) to make sure the water will get down. This green plastic wire is for freeing the way. I used simple tools, no drilling or such...
And second note is not to forget adjusting the gap between lower section of taillight and body, Tesla insist to use 1mm feeler but similar plastic item will fork fine:
You can repair on your own for 3$. Easy task
Model S MOTORIZED CHARGE PORT DOOR EU 1.5 Repair operation manual #20237151234
Water ingressNormal wear&tear CP_w043, 1061930-00-D,1061930-88-B,1061929-96-B,1037522-01-B,NEW COSTS 88€ Ratchet 8mmTorx T35, T15, T25Soldering ironParts list (available here in manual)OhmmeterGlue/Seal12V LAB Power supply 1- Frist troubleshoot that you got sam
evclinic.eu
Anyone know the old and new part numbers and when the chargeport door was updated?
My 2017 started having problems at 100,000 miles. It appears to be more of a physical mounting problem where the door hits the quarter panel, although it no longer opens and closes remotely with the charger button press. I have to use the touchscreen or app “open command”, sometimes combined with creative pry on the door to get it to pop open.
Yeah, I should have had it replaced a while ago, but with the new refresh light look, I’m thinking about a mod to that chargeport light assembly.
