I have had a Mk 3 for over 3 years and have charged it from the domestic 13 amp socket in my garage with no problems until 3 weeks ago it’s slow but ok. Now it starts charging normally but after maybe half an hour says unable to charge “ weak power supply “ and tells me to disconnect and reconnect . Then same thing happens. Longest it has charged is about 4 hours shortest 30 secs. And the fan keeps coming on very loudly. Anyone out there any ideas? I can’t find the error code in the manual or anything online
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Charging keeps cutting out
- Thread starter noise-plate
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Is the socket getting hot? It's possible that over time it has deteriorated. What happens if you turn down the amperage via the M3's computer display or cellphone app?
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Thanks for responding! No it’s not getting hot and I turned it down to 7 AMP on the screen and same thing happened.
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Can you use a different EVSE (AC charger) and/or test the car at a public AC charging station?
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I dunno. I see one of two things happening, with a third 'way down the list:
- There's something going wrong in the Tesla Mobile Connector. Take you and your TMC to another 120 VAC wall outlet somewhere and see if it does the same thing.
- If #1 works out, then, despite there being "no hot spots" on the 120 VAC socket in your house, I'm a-betting that it's the socket. Or the breaker upstream. Drawing 12A on a 15A circuit (which is what a TMC does) counts as a "Heavy Load" by 120 VAC standards. Nothing wrong with that, per se, except that putting 12A through a 15A socket is going to increase wear and tear over time. Every time a plug goes in and out of a socket, there's going to be wear; eventually, that wear is going to result in higher resistance/heat. I'm a-guessing that a Hot Temp or three may have melted some plastic and/or distorted things, so simply replacing that double-socket in your wall (what, $15, max, down at Home Depot?) may be worth the experiment. In my career, I actually have seen sockets go bad after a time.
- Might not be the socket, could be the breaker. As it happens, breakers are thermal elements, exactly like light bulbs, and have long-term wear out mechanisms like them as well. If #1 says, "It's OK over here", then try swapping out the 120 VAC socket; if that results in the same fun, then try swapping out the breaker. They're cheap.
- This is the low-probability issue. May be that one of the 120-220 VAC inverters in your car has given up the ghost. It happens (Rule of any reliability engineer: Across a big enough population of equipment, everything fails somewhere, sometime.) If this is your problem, then the coin flip has gone against you. A previous poster's suggestion about going to a commercial 220 L2 charging station is well taken: If that works, then it's likely 1, 2, or 3. But there are screwy failure modes where, maybe, the increased voltage Might Make It Work, where 120 VAC wouldn't.. but, on the other hand, an internal failure would likely come up with more fault codes than you'd know how to run away from.
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