Charging cable stuck, will not release. Manual release does not work. Extremely expensive quote.

[Drake250]

My 2019 Tesla Model 3 refuses to unlock from the connected mobile charger.

Pressing the button on the NACS connector, which usually releases it, instead will cause the charging LED to start blinking red and white.

It throws the following error codes:

• CP_a035: Charging disabled when using manual release
• BMS_a063: Unable to charge

I'm well aware there is a manual release on the inside of the trunk. I have had to use that before, and it has worked in the past. However now, it seems seized up, as I cannot "feel" anything moving when pulling on the cable.

Following some other advice, I've opened the trunk trim on the drivers side, and opened the orange protective cap to the charging mechanism. In there I can see the manual release cable pulls on a small white piece of plastic via a metal wire, that is on some square peg. Presumably, this is the actuator that releases the locking pin. However, I cannot get this mechanism to move. Manually pulling as hard as I can feels like I will break it, and that plastic piece begins to deform uncomfortably.

Some other things I have tried:

• Restarting the car (press and hold both scroll wheels and brake pedal)
• Updating the car to latest version
• Restarting the mobile connector
• Pressing on the connector and wigging it in a variety of ways both wile pressing the release button and/or manual release (which as stated above seems seized)
• The car is in a dry 70F+ environment, so it is not physically freezing due to ice

If I leave the car alone long enough, it will stop claiming it cannot charge, and can instead indeed charge just fine. It just seems unable to release the cable. I do hear what sounds like the actuator attempting to release the cable, but no luck in actually releasing it.

I've come across a small handful of other people encountering this issue. One stated they used a magnet to fix their actuator (somehow). Another stated a ground cable was loose causing the car to think the actuator pin was released when it was not. I do not see/feel any loose cables, but am unsure what I should be looking for in that case. This feels like the most likely scenario, however I cannot find any service information online about this piece.

I have already put in a service request to Tesla via the mobile app. However I'm unsure if their remote tech really understood the problem. They can't get a mobile tech out for nearly a week, and quoted me nearly 2 grand for the fix (the 4 year warranty just expired) which may not include a tow to the nearest service center. This seems ludicrous.

I've attached some pictures for reference. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Try pushing in a bit harder on the charger handle while trying the release. I'd wager that there's still some stress on the latch pin that's keeping things stuck.

Failing that, I'd turn off power to the charger and unbolt the charge port assembly entirely to potentially get better access. Worst case is you get a new charge port subassembly and bolt it all back up. www.ebay.com/itm/125789151630 shows what the assembly looks like. You might be able to manually disengage the latchy stuff once its all off the car.

Literally only two small torx screws hold the latching motor to the subassembly.

 

[ucmndd]

I agree with the above. Your choices are accept Tesla’s estimate or get to tearing things apart.

 

[UncleCreepy]

First of all, thanks for providing a detailed description what is happening and what you've done so far.
One thing I'd probably try is to disconnect all power sources. Turn off the car from the menu, disconnect the 12V battery and finally the HV battery (unplug the connector under the rear passenger seat). That should allow you to use the manual release handle. Whether or not it will be back to normal after reconnecting everything is a different story, but it's worth a try.

 

[MP3Mike]

hey can't get a mobile tech out for nearly a week, and quoted me nearly 2 grand for the fix (the 4 year warranty just expired) which may not include a tow to the nearest service center. This seems ludicrous.

What does their estimate show they are doing/replacing? It sounds like you might need the charge port replaced, which shouldn't cost $2k.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Looking at it a bit further, it seems the magic is going to be in getting the pretty faceplate off(the one that's visible from the outside of the car). I suspect there are only like three screws holding it on, and once that's off the two small torx screws should be visible/removable and the latching mechanism should then be removed from the inside.

Edit:

shows the removal of the charge port assembly, sadly to the INSIDE, before removing the decorative bits and door. I'm not sure how that's gonna work for you. Its a catch-22. You need to get the charge port stuff away from the door to get the latch released, but I assume you need to remove the charge handle to get the charge port stuff away from the door. MAYBE you can get enough clearance to use a small ratchet and torx bit to undo the latch before you get to a point where the charge handle won't fit through the hole.

 

[Sophias_dad]

I should add that a used 1492302-10-B can be had from ebay(1492302-10-B for sale | eBay) for like $75 including shipping, and you have a strong suspicion that your old one is kaput anyway so maybe you shouldn't care how much damage you cause to the old latching mechanism as long as you don't damage other stuff in the area.

I'd wager that worst case, a wisely applied 3/8" drill bit(with depth stop collar!) or dremel with a sharp carving bit(!) would make quick work of the plastic/nylon latchy part. I'd probably try other methods first because there are lots of wires in the neighborhood and access might be limited, and you'd be throwing bits of plastic everywhere.

 

[Drake250]

Thanks everyone. I think Sophias_dad is correct and that exact part is broken. When I press the release button on the connector, I can hear a switch attempt to articulate from that unit, so I think it's dead.

I attempted to take apart my car following that video last night and tonight, but as pointed out, the tricky part is that the connector is still in. So the exterior trim essentially can't be removed without that connector removed. So it's exactly that catch-22 with the charging connector stuck. Now I just have a loose charging port.

If I had had more niche tools, I may be able to reach those torx screws, but unfortunately I do not.

During all this, I did talk to Tesla via the mobile app and questioned their parts. I'm not sure they understood my description of the problem (which is pretty much copy and paste what I posted here), and they kept telling me to try the manual disconnect. The original quote included lots of high voltage part replacements, which I had to explain was not needed because the car still charges fine. With that they adjusted the quote down:

The revised cost is better, but I still think the expensive part, 1449495-10-E, is too much. It appears to be 1492302-10-B plus an additional wiring harness that should not be needed as the car still charges. It's just this little actuator part that I think has failed:

I'm going to still try to tackle that part later and report back. But it's getting to the point now that I'll just have to swallow Tesla's joke of a price just so I can get the car moving again (and maybe sell the vehicle if it's going to be this big a pain).

Thanks to everyone on this forum for the help thus far. Extremely knowledgeable and kind people.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Thanks everyone. I think Sophias_dad is correct and that exact part is broken. When I press the release button on the connector, I can hear a switch attempt to articulate from that unit, so I think it's dead.

I attempted to take apart my car following that video last night and tonight, but as pointed out, the tricky part is that the connector is still in. So the exterior trim essentially can't be removed without that connector removed. So it's exactly that catch-22 with the charging connector stuck. Now I just have a loose charging port.

If I had had more niche tools, I may be able to reach those torx screws, but unfortunately I do not.

During all this, I did talk to Tesla via the mobile app and questioned their parts. I'm not sure they understood my description of the problem (which is pretty much copy and paste what I posted here), and they kept telling me to try the manual disconnect. The original quote included lots of high voltage part replacements, which I had to explain was not needed because the car still charges fine. With that they adjusted the quote down:

View attachment 971860

The revised cost is better, but I still think the expensive part, 1449495-10-E, is too much. It appears to be 1492302-10-B plus an additional wiring harness that should not be needed as the car still charges. It's just this little actuator part that I think has failed:
View attachment 971861

I'm going to still try to tackle that part later and report back. But it's getting to the point now that I'll just have to swallow Tesla's joke of a price just so I can get the car moving again (and maybe sell the vehicle if it's going to be this big a pain).

Thanks to everyone on this forum for the help thus far. Extremely knowledgeable and kind people.

You are correct about them planning to replace incorrect parts.

I wouldn't normally consider this, but you might want to consider drilling through the faceplate of the charge port(!) to get access to the torx screws to remove the latching mechanism. I really don't think this is a good idea, because the torx screws may well be below(lower than) the metal of the port opening or even the visible body of the fender(!). You'd also have to buy a new charge port door.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ISLNRE/ is a teeny ratchet I use from time to time. It would >probably< allow you to get to those torx screws with the limited space you can make, since you really only need the height of the bit to get in there. Heck, I've even been known to cut down the bit since it really only needs 1/4" of 1/4" hex to be usable. There's undoubtedly already at least a little space between the torx screws and metal, so you might be able to undo that latch if you could slide the assembly in even 3/4". BTW, I'd definitely want a helper to hold the charge handle for this operation because its going to be putting lots of stress on the charge port assembly.

www.ebay.com/itm/256118513387 shows a nice side/bottom view that shows the guts of the latch mechanism extending almost a half inch above the screw heads. It looks like you also might be able to massacre(use a flathead screwdriver to undo the clasp) the bottom of the cover and reveal the innards without any disassembly of the charge port. I'd suggest taking a soldering iron to the backside of the screws to free them, but that mounting plate looks like a fiber reinforced plastic and its not gonna give up easily. If you have a soldering iron I'd probably just use it to 'cut' the entire backplate of the latch mechanism off. If you have a new 1492302-10-B in hand it would be easier to see how to disassemble the old one.

One final idea is to try to cut the latch tang by sliding a hacksaw blade right up next to it. The problem with this is a standard hacksaw blade just won't fit alongside the latch so you'd have to either cut the end of the hacksaw blade so its narrower(!) or use a sabre(jig) saw hacksaw blade. The latter would probably work better, but then you'd have to find a way to hold it. You'd also be working fairly close to wiring. It also won't work if the latch piece is metal.

Good luck! I'd also be talking to tesla again so they don't roll a truck for you just to arrive and not have the right parts.

 

[PianoAl]

With that they adjusted the quote down:

Can it be done by mobile service?

 

[davewill]

I think I would try pushing hard inward on the plug while trying to move that lever. There might be some kind of mechanical pressure keeping the locking latch from moving. The other thing I might try is moving that lever in both directions to see if you can work it past whatever broken part is keeping if from moving.

You could also just go ahead and apply enough force to either get it loose or break the internal mechanism.