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Model S suspect HV battery issue

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I have a '13 S p85+ heat went out and the tesla service center kept jerking me around with a rental 3 times. Nearest service center is an hour away and I have kids in daycare. All of a sudden started popping codes like crazy.

BMS_f107
BMS_w107
MGS_u008
GEW_w018

unable to drive voltage supply to low on center console battery at 18%

Tesla called me and said its not PTC , HV battery is hosed.

I thought timing was a little to suspect so I changed out the DC-DC converter, PTC heater with a gen 3, and new 12v battery in the hopes that it would fix the issue.

Now it fired back up with

DL_u014 - unable to drive voltage supply to low
GTW_w018 - Electrical system power reduced vehicle may shut down unexpectedly
BMS_u018 - Maximum Batter charge level reduced OK to drive schedule service
BMS_u008 - Vehicle may not start service is required
BMS_f107 - Service is required Schedule service.

attached are all the things from scan my tesla. Am I hosed ? HV the only way ? is there something I can do to reset ? Now I can not seem to get the charging port to unlock. It opens , but wont unlock when I click the button. = (

Happy thanksgiving !
 

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of note is that I did try and put in a ticket with 057tech.com but did not hear back at all. Electrified Garage has a 10 month wait and is only doing florida. I am in NY about an hour north of the city. anybody else fix battery issues in the area ??
 
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f107 code = brick voltage sensor circuit detect abnormality. Your Module 1 cell 3 and 4 are the max/min brick voltages causing the 54mV imbalance. This suggest potentially corrosion on Module 1 board (BMB) or the common sensor wire between cell 3 and 4 on Module 1. Module 1 is nearest to driver side rear tire in case you've had any collision in this area.

You can track @mr_hyde progress on the same issue with his DIY repair. His problem was all BMB board corrosion (but towards front of the pack) and cell voltages read much worse than yours.


Very few rebuilder around thus the long distance tow. You can reach out to @NV Ray here or on following facebook group (He tracks battery rebuilders) Probably expect at least $5k to teardown and repair the pack.


If DIY, be aware of the deadly HV danger messing with the HV pack. Can kill a person.
 
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I agree with Howard. The fact that your bricks (SMT calls them 'cells' which isn't accurate terminology) look perfect except for the two adjacent ones on a single module suggests your 'battery' is fine. That is the good news. The bad news is that it requires opening the pack to repair and there is nothing easy about that. The other good news is that module 1 is the easiest module to get to. That said, if you have corrosion on your BMB board or a sensor wire that has lifted, you would be insane to go through the effort of dropping/opening the pack and not check all 16 modules carefully. When I did mine, I found the expected failure on the BMB but four additional BMBs has corrosion that was building but just hadn't failed yet. If I had left them the way they were, I would have been dead in the water in 6 months maximum.

I also agree with Howard - the voltage inside the pack is deadly. This is not a simple DIY project already and when you consider the danger of nearly 400v, most DIYers shouldn't attempt it.

Curiosity question - do you normally park slightly uphill?
 
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My driveway is pretty flat so no slight uphill where it is parked.
I would cry a little, bordering on a lot, but 5K would be worth it to me. Car has 130K miles on it. Is it worth it to do ?
Anything more and I probably could not swing it, especially with Christmas right around the corner.
thank you guys so much for the info and words from the wise, I really appreciate it.
 
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5K would be worth it to me.

$5k would be the absolute minimum. Many charge 2x more without knowing what is found on the inside after extensive labor to open and reseal the battery pack.

Most rebuilder will assume the worst and charge more including Tesla SC which values your pack least at ~$0 core.

Car has 130K miles on it. Is it worth it to do ?

You also have the fairly high failure rate large drive unit. So need to consider another $7k+ expense post battery repair if lose the lottery.
 
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Aren't the first two modules the difference between the 85 and 70K pack ? Is there a way to effectively cork it with software so it does not see the first two and runs as a 70K ??

Corking is just a software mapping to limit battery to lower capacity than it has. Just limiting how much capacity from every module can be used rather than physically disconnecting modules. battery is monitoring for internal failures which you unfortunately have and therefore disabled.

Recell in TX will replace with 210 mile range for about $10k without return shipping. Tesla SC wants like $16k used (often poor quality) and $22k+ for new battery. Check for latest prices (@NV Ray should have it) And remember the potential additional $7k if rear drive unit should fail in not distant future.

Another option is to sell car as is for probably $7-$8k (Just a guess. Probably changing quickly as more failed battery MS appear with ever increasing #s entering post warranty pool) to someone with rebuild skill. Don”t have magical better answers. Post warranty MS can be quite the $ pit and repair cost > residual value :(
 
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Reach out to Recell. They are offering a new remote diagnostic service (just saw FB post today). They will pick up your car and fix it with a 16 module pack for about $10k. A 14 module pack is a bit less. You just need to fly to Texas to drive it home. That is the cheapest 'easy' option.
 
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Lots of similarities for me here :
last year i change one bmb on module 9 on the penthouse. and now if have this (see picture attached)
My question is : do you think that this is a BMB problem on module 10 for 3,710v ( only 21mv ofimbalance) ??
..or main BMS board problem ? ... or something else ?
any suggestion are very welcomed/
for the record i now know how to manage hight voltage with all precaution needeed for this kind of repair. (i buy all stuff do work with a maximum of security)
 

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The two photos are just showing the highest and lowest values so and they both look okay. Isn't 107 the error that pops up when the BMS suddenly loses voltage for one or more bricks - usually the sign of a broken sensor wire connection? The challenging thing is knowing where it happened. When you did your BMB on Module #9, did you take the whole lid off or just the hump cover? If my memory is correct about 107, you might need to take all of the modules out to find the loose connection. I will take a lot of time, but the end result should be better and you will have the opportunity to check the other BMBs for similar damage to what you observed last year.
 
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last time was f107 error too with bmb problem (some bloc at 0V ) ... but problem here is... scan my tesla show no problem with BMB alla voltage seem correct ..... so ... do you think there is problem with broken sensor ?? ..if so... it must show some problem with voltage wih blocs somewhere with scan my tesla ? don't you think ?
 
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