Don't go changing dip switches unless you know the rest of the installation (wiring, breakers etc) are up to it.
This ! Start at your consumer unit and main fuse. Firstly, do you know what your overall main fuse rating is ? Some are as low as 40A for the entire property (older installations), lots are 60, then 80/100 for newer builds.
Once you know this (don't try and remove it, you may have to ask your distribution company to inspect / replace with higher rated fuse), then you can move onto the consumer unit.
Is your install wired in separately form the groups of fuses on the board - or is it included in one of the groups ? This has an impact on regular high-amps charging as you could find the lights dim or things trip if it's wired in alongside for example an electric cooker hob in the same RCD/Trip switch grouping. Hopefully your sparky didn't go that route.
Now check the fuse rating on the trip switch or your EV charge circuit, the last 2 digits on the model number tell you the rating - ith will either be 40, 32 or 16 at a guess.
If it's 16, then you should expect to only charge at max 12-14 for longer charge periods and your pod point should have dip switches set within this range
If 32, then the pod point 30 limit makes sense - again need to check pod point dip switches.
If 40, same as 32 given the pod point 30A max limitation previously mentioned.
If your EV charger circuit shares current draw with other electrical devices, for example external wall sockets, other house/garage/garden/outbuilding electrics then set the pod point at a sensible dip switch setting in case of multiple consumer draws against the single 40/32A circuit.
None of this is helped by every house/supply/consumer unit being different in terms of historical first install / subsequent additions.
If you find yourself limited by any of the constraints above it is time to start form the beginning and get the start>end ampage ratings aligned properly to 30A charging, or consider how important higher charging rates are to you .....
