Definitive S Refresh Front Plate Bracket Removal

[dylanwenzlau]

I was able to successfully remove the torx screws using this universal ratchet:

 

[Yangpei]

It took me about 5 minutes total to remove the front license plate frame on my wife's Model S. I used the 90 degrees pliers as recommended to remove the 2 security screws from under the bracket. Luckily, it was 108 degrees outside, so I didn't even need a hair dryer. The adhesive tape pulled off easily without residue.

 

[scottlawson]

Thanks for all these tips . . . I will try later this week on my new MS75. The "dealer" would not entertain removing it or helping, but I am in California which requires a front plate. I have never in my 40 years of driving had one, tho! My question is why Tesla uses this kind of security screw? Legal liability?

 

[jelloslug]

Thanks for all these tips . . . I will try later this week on my new MS75. The "dealer" would not entertain removing it or helping, but I am in California which requires a front plate. I have never in my 40 years of driving had one, tho! My question is why Tesla uses this kind of security screw? Legal liability?

To help prevent license plate theft?

 

[scottlawson]

To help prevent license plate theft?

The crazy screws underneath do not do that, they are for the plate bracket.

 

[endog]

Just to add my 2 cents. I got the screws off very easily using an 11/32 socket and some epoxy. I just rolled up a little ball of J-B Weld WaterWeld epoxy putty and stuck it in the end of the socket and then stuck the socket on the screw and let it cure for 10min. Effectively took an impression of the screw head. It didn’t bond to the screw at all and was used again for the other screw. If you don’t have any epoxy at home, you should. That stuff is great to have around for just such an emergency.

 

[jmonster]

Thank you everyone for their contributions on this thread! I just got done taking mine off and it lost 99% awesome! the 1% is some glue residue that could be mistaken for a scratch or ripped off paint. I've tried both rubbing alcohol and Griott's Garage's waterless car wash. Anyone have any more suggestions? I'm going to try Meguiar's ScratchX tomorrow.

 

[PCMc]

Thank you everyone for their contributions on this thread! I just got done taking mine off and it lost 99% awesome! the 1% is some glue residue that could be mistaken for a scratch or ripped off paint. I've tried both rubbing alcohol and Griott's Garage's waterless car wash. Anyone have any more suggestions? I'm going to try Meguiar's ScratchX tomorrow.

I used Goo Gone. It took off all of my glue residue without any issue. That was about 15 months ago. It's always possible that Tesla changed their adhesive since then, but I'd doubt it.

 

[eli1]

Try this one. It took seconds to unscrew the plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076J3J4R8

 

[eli1]

Thank you everyone for their contributions on this thread! I just got done taking mine off and it lost 99% awesome! the 1% is some glue residue that could be mistaken for a scratch or ripped off paint. I've tried both rubbing alcohol and Griott's Garage's waterless car wash. Anyone have any more suggestions? I'm going to try Meguiar's ScratchX tomorrow.

I like the white seats with white Tesla. Never seen one before

 

[kutkuzak]

Try this one. It took seconds to unscrew the plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076J3J4R8

A hundred dollars!? LOL. Good grief no. Just use a pair of 90' pliers - like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YQ7RS1M
took no time at all to loosen the bolts (which are barely more than finger tight).

 

[jmonster]

Thought to try a clay bar and it took it right off

Also should mention my experience didn't go like any of the ones I read on here. It was extremely difficult to pull, what I did was grab the top left corner and just hold pressure for awhile and could see it barely separating from the car and then suddenly the whole thing popped off at once. All of the adhesive stuff stuck to the car, but by pulling it downward (instead of away from) it came right off the car. All except the little bit in my prior post.

Highly recommend this approach!

 

[srakins21]

The 90 degree tool made that ridiculously easy. less than 5 minutes. no blow dryer. just loosen the bolts with the 90 degree nose grip pliers, pull from the bottom, and roll the rest of the glue off the front bumper, no chance of a blister. I was prepared for this to be tough but was stupid easy.

 

[HADRONCOLLIDER]

I performed the front license plate bracket removal today, one week into ownership. Having read so many posts on this subject, I got right down to these steps (summary here for any newbies):

1. Remove license plate frame and chrome fascia (easy--conventional screw heads)
2. Unscrew three (3) phillips head screws remaining in vertical face of painted bracket
3. Unscrew two (2) 'tamper-resistant' bolts from underside of bracket. My 'low-tech' defeat of the bolts was to tap gently at the sides of the boltface's lugs with a short slotted screwdriver and lightweight hammer. Remember to tap counterclockwise! A few taps and you can finish using fingers only.
4. I heated the base with a hair dryer (two minutes); grasped from below the plate, exerting considerable force (but gently, as some here have advocated): continuous pressure--no jerking movements!--getting your fingers deeper between the base and bumper; be prepared for a sudden lift off--you do NOT want the base flying up to possibly damage the bumper/hood/your face.
5. Roll off the remnants of double-sided tape. Take your time. Fingers or rag only. No plastic helpers!
6. Clean the bumper with any product you wish as long as it doesn't scratch your bumper.
7. Leave no holes in your Baby! I purchased two M5 stainless steel bolts (phillips head, ~3/4" in length) at Ace Hardware. Screwed them into the base, filling the void and making it snug.
8. Clean & reassemble all elements, then bag & label your treasure! (You will want to include it if your vehicle is sold).

Finally, sit back on the ground to worship the now gloriously naked front end of your new Tesla Model S.

I did!

 

[HippoPAPAmus]

Thanks for all the suggestions! My wife came up with a great hack I just had to share: Use braided fishing line rather than brute force to separate the holder from the bumper. Worked like a charm without any bending or ripping on your brand new Tesla. Just warm the adhesive with a hair dryer and then cut a length of braided fishing line and pull it through between the holder and the bumper. You can even pull the line tight against the holder so there is no stress on the bumper st all. Good luck.

 

[uppili]

Lot of speculation/incorrect information floating around. I removed the front plate bracket today and it was fairly painless. Wanted to share what works and what doesn't.

THESE DO NOT WORK, DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY...

• 11/32 socket
  • Wrong shape, does not grip screw head
  • e.g. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-14105-32-Inch-Shallow-6-Point/dp/B000NY79T8
• Male Torx drivers
  • The screw head is also male, come on people...
  • Plus, you won't find the correct head shape anyway
  • e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-10048-Security-Vanadium-100-Piece/dp/B000O5XDOG
• Female Torx sockets
  • You won't find the correct head shape, the sockets are all hexa-point, but the screw head is penta-point
  • e.g. Neiko® 10070A Torx Bit and External Torx Socket Set, Tamper Proof, T8 - T60 | 35-Piece - - Amazon.com
• Gator grip sockets
  • The diameter of the socket is WAY too large to even fit into the recess around the screw head, much less try and see if the depressible pins can actually grip it
  • e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Lukher-Professional-Universal-Socket-Adapter/dp/B01DQBC53E

• Cutting a groove into screw head for a flat blade driver
  • See:
  • Ok, I guess this works, but bringing a rotary blade anywhere near your paint job, ARE YOU CRAZY?

BUT, THE FOLLOWING DOES WORK, AND IT'S EASY!

1. Buy yourself one of these: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-34233-7-Inch-90-Degree-Pliers/dp/B00YQ7RS1M
2. Make sure you can see the screw. This is key to getting a good grip. My garage is dark so I taped a small mirror to the back of my iPhone and used the rear-facing flash to illuminate the screw. I rested the iPhone face down on the lower lip of the front fascia so I could see what I was doing in the mirror.
3. These 90-degree bent pliers let you grip the penta-point screw head at 4 and 8 o'clock to turn the screw. I found they were not torqued at the factory very tightly, so it was easy to loosen them. I did a few turns with the pliers, and then could unscrew the rest of the way with my fingers.

Attached are detailed pictures of how the pliers should grip the screw head.

Good luck!

View attachment 179450 View attachment 179451 View attachment 179452 View attachment 179453


View attachment 179449

These instructions are simple and does work. It took me less than 15 minutes to remove the plate once I got the plier. Thanks for making it easy to remove the front plate!

 

[pelargir]

I plan on doing this today. Thanks for the instructions. Before we took delivery last month I asked my DS why they wouldn't sell the car without the front plate and why they weren't willing to remove it for me. This was his explanation:

There is a NHTSA crash test requirement that any car tested in a low speed fender bender (5mph) does not sustain any significant or costly damage. When Tesla transitioned to the new body style, the all-aluminum hood now protrudes further forward than before, and is at risk of damage in a low speed impact. The front license plate bracket has high strength plastic behind it to help distribute the force of an impact around the bumper, and stop the vehicle short of damaging the hood in these circumstances.

Essentially, as silly as it seems, the front license plate bracket gives the new front-end Model S the additional clearance it needs in low speed impacts to prevent a costly hood replacement, therefore meeting all government guidelines, while still being removable by the end user to streamline the look of the car, should they so desire.
​

So it sounds like the front plate holder does provide some minimal protection in low speed impacts. Still not enough of a benefit IMO vs. the beauty of the unadorned MS front, but for those who might be interested in the why... there you go.

 

[pelargir]

7. Leave no holes in your Baby! I purchased two M5 stainless steel bolts (phillips head, ~3/4" in length) at Ace Hardware. Screwed them into the base, filling the void and making it snug.

5mm bolts were too small for my vehicle. I had to purchase 6mm bolts which fit perfectly.

Thanks for the tip about tapping the screwdriver to remove the tamper-resistant bolts. That trick worked and saved me the cost of buying the 90-degree needle nose pliers.

 

[HADRONCOLLIDER]

5mm bolts were too small for my vehicle. I had to purchase 6mm bolts which fit perfectly.

Thanks for the tip about tapping the screwdriver to remove the tamper-resistant bolts. That trick worked and saved me the cost of buying the 90-degree needle nose pliers.

@pelargir: Glad you found some use for my instructions. I checked my bolt size and I too have 6mm bolts. I stand corrected! Happy & safe driving!

 

[rohan_aus]

Decided to remove my front plate mount today and to say I'm annoyed is an understatement... My bracket had the usual annoying two screws on the underside... But look at this s**t... 3 more screws through the front of the bracket into the bumper, what the hell is the point of the L-bracket then?! May as well screw the plate straight into the bumper! This bracket was installed direct from Tesla. I'm tempted to call them and give them a piece of my mind.