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Definitive S Refresh Front Plate Bracket Removal
- Thread starter ZeroDarkSilver
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- Model S
marty2112
Member
Took about 15min. I used angled needle nose pliers. I little heat and the adhesive came off easily....
RedFiveZero
Member
Thanks for the info!
Worked great, only took about 15 minutes. Not owning angled needle nose pilers I used angled snap ring pliers (set to "internal") instead... a little awkward, but it got the job done.
Ace® Snap Ring Plier Set - Plier Sets - Ace Hardware
Worked great, only took about 15 minutes. Not owning angled needle nose pilers I used angled snap ring pliers (set to "internal") instead... a little awkward, but it got the job done.
Ace® Snap Ring Plier Set - Plier Sets - Ace Hardware
I took delivery of a model s in mid October 2016. Removal seems to have been simplified.
The security screws were not there. They were regular 10mm hex head bolts, easily removed with a socket wrench.
What worked amazingly well for the adhesive was a vice grip. The main problem with removing the black grill is applying force to the plastic without scratching the paint. A vice grip was able to very safely grab the plastic (the honeycomb means you can grab it anywhere.
I just put the vice grip on one corner and applied firm pressure. When it loosened a bit I grabbed in a different spot and pulled there. Bit by bit all of the tape gave way.
It seems easiest to start on the bottom because there's a slight gap there. Very quickly you will be able to get your fingers underneath.
I wouldn't pull parallel to the body of the car because then you are trying to shear all the tape of once. Just grab with the vice grips and pull away from the car. Took less than five minutes
The security screws were not there. They were regular 10mm hex head bolts, easily removed with a socket wrench.
What worked amazingly well for the adhesive was a vice grip. The main problem with removing the black grill is applying force to the plastic without scratching the paint. A vice grip was able to very safely grab the plastic (the honeycomb means you can grab it anywhere.
I just put the vice grip on one corner and applied firm pressure. When it loosened a bit I grabbed in a different spot and pulled there. Bit by bit all of the tape gave way.
It seems easiest to start on the bottom because there's a slight gap there. Very quickly you will be able to get your fingers underneath.
I wouldn't pull parallel to the body of the car because then you are trying to shear all the tape of once. Just grab with the vice grips and pull away from the car. Took less than five minutes
I also used snap ring pliers to remove the security screws. It took me about 20 minutes to remove the plate. The adhesive tape came off fairly easily. I did it at night with everything cool and it seemed to go very smoothly.
The front plate was driving me nuts! I've never had a car delivered with a front plate being in Florida. I am really surprised Tesla delivers cars in non front plate states with them... But, at least it is easy to remove and leaves no trace!
Loving the car so far!
The front plate was driving me nuts! I've never had a car delivered with a front plate being in Florida. I am really surprised Tesla delivers cars in non front plate states with them... But, at least it is easy to remove and leaves no trace!
Loving the car so far!
Thanks so much for this info - it was essential! I picked up my P100D today at a delivery center which is 125 miles from my house. I am staying with my son and getting the film work done here tomorrow, so I had to bring all the necessary tools and gear with me to do the work in his garage. Went off without a hitch! Required a fair amount of heat from the hot air gun, but everything came off cleanly and no marks of any kind on the bumper.
FYI, I already had these pliers in my tool collection - they worked great and are only $1.99 at Harbor Freight
4-3/4 in. Bent Needle Nose Pliers
FYI, I already had these pliers in my tool collection - they worked great and are only $1.99 at Harbor Freight
4-3/4 in. Bent Needle Nose Pliers
Thanks to all for the pointers. Here's my experience:
Got the angled pliers, worked one bolt out in 3 minutes, other one acted like it wasn't coming out but apparently it was stuck in the plastic and had backed all the way out of the fastener but wouldn't "drop out". When I pulled the three screws and slid the colored plate off the black bracket behind it then the whole assembly came off with the security screw still wedged in the plastic slot of the bracket. Took me about 20 minutes to sort this last screw out.
Took a break, read this thread, then went out and gripped the black plastic bracket on the honeycomb with vice grip on one end, pulling away from car while wedging fingers under bottom corner to create pressure. Started to give very slowly then as I worked hand further up underneath pulling away across the bumper the whole bracket "popped off". Balled up the remaining adhesive in 2 minutes with bare fingers. Less than 10 minutes.
I did this in a 10C (50F) garage without applying heat. Looks great, no marks!!
Got the angled pliers, worked one bolt out in 3 minutes, other one acted like it wasn't coming out but apparently it was stuck in the plastic and had backed all the way out of the fastener but wouldn't "drop out". When I pulled the three screws and slid the colored plate off the black bracket behind it then the whole assembly came off with the security screw still wedged in the plastic slot of the bracket. Took me about 20 minutes to sort this last screw out.
Took a break, read this thread, then went out and gripped the black plastic bracket on the honeycomb with vice grip on one end, pulling away from car while wedging fingers under bottom corner to create pressure. Started to give very slowly then as I worked hand further up underneath pulling away across the bumper the whole bracket "popped off". Balled up the remaining adhesive in 2 minutes with bare fingers. Less than 10 minutes.
I did this in a 10C (50F) garage without applying heat. Looks great, no marks!!
Nigel Tufnel
Member
If only I'd read the posts on this thread before trying to do this the vague way the delivery specialist told me. It took me two hours to get the job done. Do you think the DS's have been told by Tesla (for some legal/DMV/police reasons) not to give information on how to remove the front license plate bracket?
Zaphod
Galaxy President (former)
The official word I believe was the crash testing was performed with the bracket installed, so it must come that way from the factory. Kind of silly reason but I'm sure Tesla didn't want to raise any eyebrows with NHTSA with any deviations from the tested configuration.
James Anders
Member
I worked the screws loose as suggested and pulled up from the bottom. Only a small amount of adhesive remained on the car from the left side of the plate. Pull off slowly working the adhesive off as you go.
First post here. Thanks for this write up as well as all the tips! I just did this after receiving delivery of my P90D 2 days ago. Removal was super easy as has been described and Goo Gone easily took care of any remaining adhesive.
The one thing I've not seen posted before is that on black cars (like mine) the bracket seems to cause small fine scratches on the paint surface. Hardly noticeable and unfortunately rubbing compound does not remove them.
A small price to pay for removing that ugly plate - the car looks so much better without it.
Cheers!
Ruben
The one thing I've not seen posted before is that on black cars (like mine) the bracket seems to cause small fine scratches on the paint surface. Hardly noticeable and unfortunately rubbing compound does not remove them.
A small price to pay for removing that ugly plate - the car looks so much better without it.
Cheers!
Ruben
I had a vibration issue at the front end after removing the front license plate bracket. Evidently, the two bolts that go below on the bracket help secure the front bumper to the vehicle and stabilize it at high speeds. The service center replace them and the vibration issue dramatically improved.
P100DHG.
Member
Yeah, that's what I was told by the folks in Cincinnati as well. It wasn't too difficult to remove though. Only took me about 10-15 minutes. I used a set of angle pliers to remove the security screws. My car was just delivered to me last week, so apparently they are still using those screws.
James Anders
Member
Yeah, they're still using the screws. Silly. Here's the link for the little socket adapter I made. Designed to work with a standard allen wrench it fits the 5 lobed screwhead perfectly.
Tesla License Plate Socket Adapter by SlippinJimmie on Shapeways
Tesla License Plate Socket Adapter by SlippinJimmie on Shapeways
P100DHG.
Member
I'm curious is a spline socket will work
7 Pc. 3/8 in. Drive Metric Spline Socket Set
or a universal socket.
http://m.sears.com/craftsman-85pc-u...jVWB5peo5Uqo_m6Dmo6QgaAhdB8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I am a tool junkie and I am surprised I don't have either of these socket sets, I guess I've never needed them.
That custom socket is brilliant. I want one and I've already completed the work
7 Pc. 3/8 in. Drive Metric Spline Socket Set
or a universal socket.
http://m.sears.com/craftsman-85pc-u...jVWB5peo5Uqo_m6Dmo6QgaAhdB8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I am a tool junkie and I am surprised I don't have either of these socket sets, I guess I've never needed them.
That custom socket is brilliant. I want one and I've already completed the work
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