DIY Dashcam (BlackVue 550 fron&rear) - constant power source from dash

[JPP]

Update...camera is working fine, with a few minor glitches.

GPS-probably due to the TM coated windshield, the GPS reception is spotty in the Blackvue (the blue GPS light does not sen to stay on all of the time).
Time/time zone--there is a known bug where the camera does not display the correct time even if the proper time zone is selected. Not sure if this relates to the GPS issue or not. Waiting for any additional info from the DashCam forums/blogs or Pittasoft.
RF interference--this has been commented upon on the DashCam forums, but apparently the long cable from the rear camera to the front camera is not well shielded, and gives off RF interference. This has been reported to cause problems with radio interference, with hum and noise. FWIW, I think that my already marginal AM-FM reception is in fact being impacted, so I have ordered some snap on ferrite cores to install:

Amazon.com: Gino UF35B 5mm Inner Diameter Black Core Ferrite Cable Clip 10 Pcs: Car Electronics

I will see if this helps. Note that many good quality cables (USB, power, data) come with integrated 'preinstalled' ferrite cores for this reason.

 

[pete8314]

RF interference--this has been commented upon on the DashCam forums, but apparently the long cable from the rear camera to the front camera is not well shielded, and gives off RF interference. This has been reported to cause problems with radio interference, with hum and noise. FWIW, I think that my already marginal AM-FM reception is in fact being impacted, so I have ordered some snap on ferrite cores to install:

Amazon.com: Gino UF35B 5mm Inner Diameter Black Core Ferrite Cable Clip 10 Pcs: Car Electronics

I will see if this helps. Note that many good quality cables (USB, power, data) come with integrated 'preinstalled' ferrite cores for this reason.

I'm sorry - quick OT question...on my Passport 9500ci install, I have an issue where if I honk the horn, my laser alert goes off. I'm guessing the feeds from the shifters run near the horn wire, so would putting cores at each of of the laser wires fix it, maybe? I really don't want to pull my entire frunk and dash apart to reroute the wire, but if something like this could fix it, that wouldn't be so bad....

 

[nkohlimd]

Seems like they have released a new cable to reduce interference

New Coaxial cable for Blackvue DR550GW-2CH | Blackvue UK News Blog

 

[JPP]

Seems like they have released a new cable to reduce interference

New Coaxial cable for Blackvue DR550GW-2CH | Blackvue UK News Blog

...like I want to struggle to deinstall my existing cable and reinstall the new one....

I did get the ferrite cores and have installed them near the rear camera (behind the window trim) and in the right hand A-pillar. Seems to have helped.
BTW, time/clock now set properly--probably needed a good GPS link. The GPS is still intermittent (get the blue light off and on).

 

[JPP]

Seems like they have released a new cable to reduce interference

New Coaxial cable for Blackvue DR550GW-2CH | Blackvue UK News Blog

FWIW, I got in contact with the seller of my Blackvue (through Amazon). He got a few of the new better shielded rear camera cables air-shipped to him and is sending me one. I will look at it to see how it measures up and if it is worth the effort to deinstall the old one and install the new one. I do have a couple of ferrite cores on the cable now, 1 at the rear near the camera (looped with 1 full turn of cable through the center), and a second in the A pillar (probably redundant).

 

[nkohlimd]

JPP
let me know how it goes. My unit gets delivered Monday and will wait on install of the rear camera to get up your input on whether the new cable makes a difference. Best of luck. Thanks.

 

[dratifk]

I can't get my time and date to set properly. Any tips. I tried erasing all the files in the record folder and rebooted.

 

[JPP]

I can't get my time and date to set properly. Any tips. I tried erasing all the files in the record folder and rebooted.

Time and date rely on a good solid GPS lock for a period of time (...hours to days). Are you parked inside a garage or out and about? Do you see the blue GPS light on the unit when driving?
Do try to do a full SD card reformat (in the camera or on the desktop).

- - - Updated - - -

JPP
let me know how it goes. My unit gets delivered Monday and will wait on install of the rear camera to get up your input on whether the new cable makes a difference. Best of luck. Thanks.

I might not do the cable swap anytime soon--given how much work it was to fish the cable through the rear rubber boot/sleeve. If I have the energy, guess I could just disconnect the installed old cable and use the new cable tossed over the seats to see if there is any improvement. As of now I have little-to-no noticeable interference with the ferrite cores.

 

[ntt6]

Hi, I had a professional install the 550 front/rear a few days ago following LastNLSig's step-by-step (thanks!). Ever since my car refuses to go into sleep mode (as I can see through the REST API and the speed of connection with the Tesla App). Do any of you have the same problem or any idea how to fix this?

 

[JPP]

ntt6--not sure why car won't sleep after install of Blackvue. I would not think that the 12V draw should affect the MCU. FWIW, my S sleeps fine (...maybe too soundly-slow to wake up).

Follow-up---got the new improved cable from my US/Amazon seller. Looks thicker but otherwise unremarkable (no built in ferrite core, no lumps or bumps, same right angled connectors). No time now to do an A-B comparison.

 

[ABVA]

I have an INAVI FXD900. In the process of installing the camera I think I damaged the Power supply cable. Does anybody know where can I get a replacement cable within USA. Any help is sincerely appreciated.

 

[Akikiki]

Hey, LastNLSig,

Reference your comment about power:

Cut the power cable to length, connect/solder some connectors to the wires and connect them to the power supply connectors. Tie the wires up behind the frame of the dash (see earlier picture).

"Along the way, I did many sanity checks using a multimeter to verify the connections/power supply. (recommended).
At this point you can do a first functional test by plugging the power cable into the front cam. If the power supply is OK some lights will come on and the BlackVue will start to talk."


I wish for you to confirm what I found. Was it your experience after testing for 12v positive that it was the inside of the 12volt connector connecting to the cam? Am I correct that the inside of the connector where you too connected to 12volt on the car/glove box power?
thanks.

 

[AnOutsider]

I'm curious, those who tapped power for these to run continuously, do you noticed less range? More vampire draw? I'd imagine it should be negligible, but just curious.

 

[Johan]

I'm curious, those who tapped power for these to run continuously, do you noticed less range? More vampire draw? I'd imagine it should be negligible, but just curious.

Totally negligable. I don't think it would effect vampire but in theory range for the first few minutes of driving (putting energy lost back in 12V battery). I left my DR500 on for one week (WiFi off) and the 12V was at 13.2V when i returned (checked before starting the car, but with doors opened).

 

[AnOutsider]

Totally negligable. I don't think it would effect vampire but in theory range for the first few minutes of driving (putting energy lost back in 12V battery). I left my DR500 on for one week (WiFi off) and the 12V was at 13.2V when i returned (checked before starting the car, but with doors opened).

Ah duh, it draws from 12V and not high power pack. I may consider this. We're going on a road trip and it would be cool to have this.

 

[HankLloydRight]

How do you check the 12v battery voltage.. Pop off the nosecone and use a voltmeter?

 

[Akikiki]

Power Source in Speaker Grill of newer Model S

Just finished the install of the Blackvue 550 front dash cam following most of LastNLSig moves. I found something that made my install easier.

I found a constant power source in the speaker grill. My S was built after 1 Aug 13 and that's supposed to make it different in many ways. But I found power up there anyway. I had to dig around a little. It was not connected to anything. There's several wire/cables pushed up against the headliner towards the mirror; this one was in that group.

Here's a picture of the connector. There are three leads coming into this connector. Black is ground, and the green-ish (middle) and blue/red (outside) are both constant hot. Even when the car has shutdown/gone to sleep.

Also on Amazon I found a 1.3mm x 3.5mm x 11.2mm plug (pigtail) with 6 feet of cord for the power from Parts Express. Saved me cutting my Blackvue power cable just to get that plug.
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express...+1.3mm+x+3.5mm+x+11.2mm+Plug+with+6+feet+Cord

 

[JPP]

Just finished the install of the Blackvue 550 front dash cam following most of LastNLSig moves. I found something that made my install easier.

I found a constant power source in the speaker grill. My S was built after 1 Aug 13 and that's supposed to make it different in many ways. But I found power up there anyway. I had to dig around a little. It was not connected to anything. There's several wire/cables pushed up against the headliner towards the mirror; this one was in that group.

View attachment 51325

View attachment 51326
Here's a picture of the connector. There are three leads coming into this connector. Black is ground, and the green-ish (middle) and blue/red (outside) are both constant hot. Even when the car has shutdown/gone to sleep.

Also on Amazon I found a 1.3mm x 3.5mm x 11.2mm plug (pigtail) with 6 feet of cord for the power from Parts Express. Saved me cutting my Blackvue power cable just to get that plug.
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express...+1.3mm+x+3.5mm+x+11.2mm+Plug+with+6+feet+Cord

I'm surprised that there is still a 12v supply in the headliner above the microphone grille at VIN 20800--thought that was eliminated around VIN 10000 or so.

BTW, did you leave a fuse in line with your Blackvue? The original cable has a fused cigarette lighter plug and also an in-line fuse holder. Your substitute cable has neither. FWIW, I cut off the cigarette lighter plug but kept/use the in-line fuse when I connected to the 12V.

 

[HankLloydRight]

I'm surprised that there is still a 12v supply in the headliner above the microphone grille at VIN 20800--thought that was eliminated around VIN 10000 or so.

Strange -- my VIN 15xxx does NOT have the headliner 12V harness. I sure wish it did.

 

[Akikiki]

Strange -- my VIN 15xxx does NOT have the headliner 12V harness. I sure wish it did.

JPP. Yes, I added a 5 amp fuse. I could not find anything smaller. Thanks for asking just as a reminder to me in case I had not.

Hank, I would poke around a little. I too thought it was not supposed to be there. I had heard some time ago it was missing. Surely made the front mount install easier.

I had contacted my seller for a newer cable to the rear. After hearing others having an interference problem. Getting the cable and end through that boot between the body and truck lid was quite the chore. I worked more than two hours on different methods. I removed the right side plastic trim panel on the lid in order to drill my exit hole there.