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The kit is outrageously expensive. A few pieces of wires are not enough to add the Tesla luxury tax.
The gear is a few bucks from Tesla...latest version last me a year already.
Most of the vendors think because you own a Tesla..you have money to burn
That actually isn’t true. The upgraded Tesla gear still will break. The wiring harnesses we make are upgraded to never break again. Doing things in small production numbers means it’s expensive and we aren’t making a ton of money on any of the components. It’s really a service to the community vs a 600-1000$ handle replacement when you’re out of warranty. Even our rebuilt handles at $350 with a one year warranty are significantly cheaper than the factory alternative.
There is some downward pressure on these prices now. Tesla service is quoting about $500 for Gen3 handles now.
So... you can get a new handle for less than refurbishing a Gen1 handle and keep the Tesla elves happy.
That said, I do like there being options on the market and hope that this service continues.
Thank you. I keep seeing varying prices around the country for the Gen 3 handle. However the Gen 3 handle isn't a permanent fix. The hall effect sensor is an improvement over the microswitches to a degree. They have their own issues and if it loses "calibration" Tesla is the only one who can teach it what "presented" and "open" are. The Gen 2 design was flawed in the quality of components used. Putting the microswitches on a static point would definitely make more sense but with the components we have redesigned and improved upon we have had zero failures and over 1000 kits out in the wild currently.
Thank you. Yea its tough they're not the easiest things to work on and its not a straight plug and play where there is adjustment after the fact etc. I think it'll get better as the used market gets cheaper and more people start to tinker with them.Oh -- don't get me wrong. Like I said, I'm all-in on the full rebuild kit vs. Gen3. If my handles fail, you'll be the ones I contact to get more robust parts and quality time behind my door panels.
But I know a lot of owners are timid about anything DIY, so for them, they'll be comparing the stress of working on their car vs. new parts installed by ranger/SC. That was my only point.
I wish the DIY culture was stronger with the S/X, but it is what it is. Thank you for helping us.
I think it'll get better as the used market gets cheaper and more people start to tinker with them.
I swear I wasn’t trying to pass any bad energy!Well-- DAMMIT-- That's what I get for tempting fate. Walked out the car this morning (already running late) and the driver door handle presents, but DOES NOT OPEN. What sort of voodoo magic are you using @EVTuning ?!?!
<sigh> So I guess I'm in for a rebuild kit. Placing the order now... What kind of weird handle karma is this??
If all goes well, I'll write it up on the blog and do some tweets. Have a couple things I want to try before digging in though.
SO ANNOYING. I just finished doing all the brakes and thought I was good now, but NOOOOOOoooooo had to open my mouth and stumble across this thread because my friend had handle troubles.
Maybe it's HIS fault. Hmmm.
I swear I wasn’t trying to pass any bad energy!
The door handles of my 2012 Model S were replaced around 2015. Are those 2nd gen handles?
Has anyone went ahead and also replace their door handle motor gear? (Tesla Model S Replacement Door Handle Motor Gear)
For several months the right rear door handle would present itself and sometimes let me open the door if the front passenger door is closed. Very odd behavior.
A couple of weeks ago, the door handle no longer allows me to open the door. I cannot even open the door from the inside using the interior door handle. I understand those are opened by "electrical means". I can still open the door by pulling on the emergency rope hidden by the foot well. Does this sound like an issue with the switches?
The door handle motor gear is very rare that it fails. It will basically develop a crack and split. In some cases it's cheaper and easier to just buy a used motor than trying to replace the gear itself.
Can you see if the window will go up and down on the door that won't open? A lot of times what we see if the door harness will break at the accordion joint where the door hinge is and subsequently you loose power or the common ground for the entire door. Where the door won't open from inside or outside without using the mechanical release it makes me think you have a bigger problem like either the module in the handle, the master module in the front door or a wiring issue.
When I pull on the rear door handle, I see the window roll down for about half a second and then roll back up. All of this happens before I release the door handle.
By the way, I placed an order from you yesterday for the driver side door that won't present itself.
Ok based on what you said it sounds like the latch itself may have gone bad and it may not be a handle issue at all. This would make sense why it doesn't work from either outside or inside but works with the mechanical release when you pull it.
I am backed up on the kits and we have a 2nd generation of the microswitch harness hopefully shipping the first week of 2nd week of november. Do you want to hold off for the newer generation?
This usually means the handle is rubbing on the door skin itself. WD-40 will work but it most likely needs to be adjusted to not rub.sorry if it is off topic, but I was wondering is there a lubricant I can use to prevent squeaking noises when handle goes in and out the door