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Yup. As I've said earlier though, it's literally impossible for the car to make 1100 hp at the battery and then 1100 at the wheels. That's 100% efficiency; a physical impossibility.
I like the Martian wheels a lot but I'd prefer the offset to be a little more aggressive than the stock set-up. Something like +25F +30R (or even +30 front and rear) would look nice IMO. My stock 19" wheels with the +40F +45R offset look pretty good but they aren't quite flush. I'd prefer 10-15mm more.Finally made it through all 58 pages! Thanks for the entertainment while I eagerly anticipate my Plaid delivery (hopefully in February).
Has anyone seen any results using the forged 19" Martian MW05 wheels on a Plaid yet? 19
At 22.5 lbs and 23.5 lbs, they're claiming 30% weight reduction vs the stock 19" wheels, so I'm hoping to see some slight performance improvements when I get mine installed, even though I'll be using the stock Pirelli tires which aren't as favoured here vs the PS4Ss. I don't see any weight specs on the Signature Wheels website, so I'm curious what the weight difference is between those and the Martians.
One thing I like about the Martians is that they're the exact same specs as the stock Tempest wheels, so I can swap my stock tires onto them, plus the Tesla centre caps fit for a more stock look.
Unfortunately, these will be my summer wheels, so I won't be able to test them until April.
The Signature wheels are lighter than the Martians. For the 19” SV104s they run 20.6 and 21.6 lbs. Yeah, I have them on order with Jamie Sig.Finally made it through all 58 pages! Thanks for the entertainment while I eagerly anticipate my Plaid delivery (hopefully in February).
Has anyone seen any results using the forged 19" Martian MW05 wheels on a Plaid yet? 19
At 22.5 lbs and 23.5 lbs, they're claiming 30% weight reduction vs the stock 19" wheels, so I'm hoping to see some slight performance improvements when I get mine installed, even though I'll be using the stock Pirelli tires which aren't as favoured here vs the PS4Ss. I don't see any weight specs on the Signature Wheels website, so I'm curious what the weight difference is between those and the Martians.
One thing I like about the Martians is that they're the exact same specs as the stock Tempest wheels, so I can swap my stock tires onto them, plus the Tesla centre caps fit for a more stock look.
Unfortunately, these will be my summer wheels, so I won't be able to test them until April.
I have to say I am sort of torn between the Signatures and Martians. I went with Martians on my MY and they look awesome and have performed well. While not quite as light as the Sig's, I actually like the look of them better on my MY. It was a huge weight savings over stock either way I would have gone. It really makes the car feel lighter on its feet and the ride quality is improved. Didn't notice any measurable improvement though in 0-60 times (or 1/4).The Signature wheels are lighter than the Martians. For the 19” SV104s they run 20.6 and 21.6 lbs. Yeah, I have them on order with Jamie Sig.
Sounds like a great plan! I was going to do the same on the Plaid, but decided against, due to rear wheel power.I have to say I am sort of torn between the Signatures and Martians. I went with Martians on my MY and they look awesome and have performed well. While not quite as light as the Sig's, I actually like the look of them better on my MY. It was a huge weight savings over stock either way I would have gone. It really makes the car feel lighter on its feet and the ride quality is improved. Didn't notice any measurable improvement though in 0-60 times (or 1/4).
What I do like though with Signature is all the wheel offsets you can have since it is custom. I am seriously leaning toward going to a square setup so I can rotate my tires. The wider tire contact patch in the rear is likely moot for my MY LR since it isn't trying to lay down as much power as a Plaid. By going with a narrower rear rim, I'll save a bit of weight too.
The reason my car still has the stock 19s is because I can't decide which wheels: Signature, T Sportline, BC Forged. Someone recently posted pics of their refresh with BC Forged wheels which I also like. If I go with Martian wheels, then I'd probably end up wanting to use 10-15mm spacers so I'd rather just get wheels with more aggressive offsets / custom offsets. It's cold now so I'd like my car to be all set (wheels, brakes, etc) by the end of March.I have to say I am sort of torn between the Signatures and Martians. I went with Martians on my MY and they look awesome and have performed well. While not quite as light as the Sig's, I actually like the look of them better on my MY. It was a huge weight savings over stock either way I would have gone. It really makes the car feel lighter on its feet and the ride quality is improved. Didn't notice any measurable improvement though in 0-60 times (or 1/4).
What I do like though with Signature is all the wheel offsets you can have since it is custom. I am seriously leaning toward going to a square setup so I can rotate my tires. The wider tire contact patch in the rear is likely moot for my MY LR since it isn't trying to lay down as much power as a Plaid. By going with a narrower rear rim, I'll save a bit of weight too.
That I would like to see is the Power numbers from that Dyno pull for the front and the rear. The Dyno should be able to show that because it's not a "linked" roller. I got a feeling the front motor is putting out close to the full 400 hp and the rears are limited.
It doesn't really make sense to put more power in the front, as that hurts acceleration. When the Plaid accelerates, it puts ~70% of its weight on the rear axle, and 30% on the front when it transfers weight. This means there is much less traction for the front motor to utilize. So if anything, the front motor would be the limited motor, while the rears are a little less limited.That I would like to see is the Power numbers from that Dyno pull for the front and the rear. The Dyno should be able to show that because it's not a "linked" roller. I got a feeling the front motor is putting out close to the full 400 hp and the rears are limited.
Well ya but the front only has one motor, the rear has 2. So if the front they had the motor turned up to the "full" 400 and each rear at 350 that's still 700 to the rear and 400 to the front, 1100 total... When My plaid looses traction at the track it always seems to be the front spinning, right font to be exact. I think its a combination of weight transfer removing weight from the front and the lack of a LSD in the front Dif. The rear seems to hook well with the weight transferring to the rear and one motor powering each tire with no differential. Also larger tires In the rear.It doesn't really make sense to put more power in the front, as that hurts acceleration. When the Plaid accelerates, it puts ~70% of its weight on the rear axle, and 30% on the front when it transfers weight. This means there is much less traction for the front motor to utilize. So if anything, the front motor would be the limited motor, while the rears are a little less limited.
However, I imagine all 3 DUs are making around 340 hp, as distributing power evenly likely makes the most sense for balance and traction.
Sure, but 1) the car's motors aren't making 1100 combined, as it's more like 1020 to 1060 at the motor shafts.Well ya but the front only has one motor, the rear has 2. So if the front they had the motor turned up to the "full" 400 and each rear at 350 that's still 700 to the rear and 400 to the front, 1100 total...
I was just using that as a example, could be 380 front, 320 out of each rear for a 1020 total... And I would not say that 1100 is "physically impossible" when a Tesla engineer has already stated that the motors are "400 HP each". Tesla is just not pushing them to the max to make 1020hp if that's the true output. I agree that is is problematic to try and measure EV power on a Dyno designed to measure power on ICE cars.Sure, but 1) the car's motors aren't making 1100 combined, as it's more like 1020 to 1060 at the motor shafts.
(See these posts to understand where I'm coming from here. 1100 at the hubs is physically impossible).
It is physically impossible as of right now when the battery is making 1100 hp as measured by the CANbus.I was just using that as a example, could be 380 front, 320 out of each rear for a 1020 total... And I would not say that 1100 is "physically impossible" when a Tesla engineer has already stated that the motors are "400 HP each". Tesla is just not pushing them to the max to make 1020hp if that's the true output. I agree that is is problematic to try and measure EV power on a Dyno designed to measure power on ICE cars.
These numbers show unparalleled drivetrain efficiency!!! SO PUMPED! Figure maybe 1020 to 1055 at the wheels after figuring rolling resistance, and that's 93% to 95% drivetrain efficiency!!!!!!! HOLY CRAP!!!!Also @FastMatt and anyone else interested, the real number the car put down was 1067.3 hp. The dyno auto-corrects for weather and other factors that apply only to ICEs. Since EVs are unaffected by these conditions, the uncorrected values are the real numbers. Check it out starting at 1:17:
View attachment 758049
Well there is no transmission, no drive shaft, no flywheel/flexplate, no clutch/TQ converter to gobble up power spinning.These numbers show unparalleled drivetrain efficiency!!! SO PUMPED! Figure maybe 1020 to 1055 at the wheels after figuring rolling resistance, and that's 93% to 95% drivetrain efficiency!!!!!!! HOLY CRAP!!!!
Nope. But this is unbelievable even by EV standards. The average EV does around 90% from the battery to the motors. This is insanity! Tesla FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!Well there is no transmission, no drive shaft, no flywheel/flexplate, no clutch/TQ converter to gobble up power spinning.