Driver’s window not working right after rear harness recall fix

[shellac]

So my 2019 Model 3 had the rear harness recall issue. My back camera intermittently would stop working. Mobile service came out and fixed it just a couple days ago, with no charge.

Unfortunately when I went to the car I immediately noticed the driver’s side window wasn’t opening as normal. Usually the window drops slightly to clear the chrome trim, but now it wasn’t doing that and is catching.

From the inside, the window has trouble going up all the way. It goes all the way up and then down slightly so it’s still open. To close the window completely you have to hold down the power window button for a few seconds after it’s closed for it to stay. Unfortunately when you go to open the door with the button it’s catching on the trim. You have to manually lower the window a bit to open the door.

I tried resetting the car and tried the window calibration reset tips where you hold the power button all the way down and up for a bit. Those do nothing despite multiple attempts.

The frustrating thing is Tesla service says it’s nothing they did. Before this however I had zero problems with my driver window. They want to charge close to $300 to fix it. since I’m out of warranty.

I don’t know enough about how the rear harness is changed to comment on how that could have possibly messed up the driver window. Any ideas? I guess it could be a bizarre coincidence but I feel it’s unlikely. Could they have shorted some component in the door during the harness fix process?

Also any ideas on how I could fix this myself without having service come out? Am I missing something simple?

Thanks.

 

[RayK]

I'm not entirely sure if what you are experiencing is related to this, but give it a try as it doesn't cost anything:

My understand is that a problem with a dead / disconnected puddle light in the door can affect the window operation. Verify that the puddle light is turning on when the door is open. If not, you can pull the assembly out and see if the connection is loose. If all appears to be tight, then the LED could have burned out. At that point you may be able to test the LED using a multimeter; placing the multimeter leads across terminals, the resistance will be infinity or fairly low ohms (~500 to 2000 ohms), depending upon how the leads are connected (i.e, swap them and the resistance will drastically change).

 

[shellac]

Good suggestion, but puddle light seems to be fine.

 

[shellac]

So mobile service came by and fixed it instantly, no charge.

There’s apparently a window calibration option that’s accessible through the service menu. He ran that and it fixed the problem.

The window calibration I had tried was the one where you hold down the power window button for a while and then hold it up. That didn’t work.

 

[94874]

Today I had a similar issue. When passenger door was opened, the window auto-cracked per usual, but then when door was closed it went up, then immediately back down. I open the Tesla app, click to close the window and it goes down further each time I press it. I was able to close it by using the driver side window control. Never had it do this before. Has been very cold lately, today's temp was a high of low 20s, roads still holding some ice/snow.