Dyno Results for Model S refresh LR?

[DayTrippin]

Consistently running in the 10.8 range and around 128-129. That was according to an old Dragy I used that matched very closely to when I used it with other vehicles as the track. I almost never made any runs at 100% SoC as I didn't see any improvement the few times I ran it. Most of my runs were in the 65-75% range. Again SoC didn't seem to make much of a difference.

I did a lot more 0-60 runs. All my 1/4 mile runs were 0-60 ones that I was able to extend in my testing area.

 

[Sam1]

1/4 mile runs? results for the LR?

Fastest one currently on dragy, but some have hit 10.6 with a bit of weight reduction

 

[Sam1]

VS the fastest P100d on dragy:

 

[dsc888]

When I was researching this earlier, the battery packs were supposed to be the same between LR and Plaid. That is why I think you are spot on with having the better top end power. It was one of the reasons I went with the LR. How that also played out is the LR basically never faded between runs and was still very strong at low SoC's.

If it could supply the 1k HP of the Plaid, the 670 of the LR would be simple. I made lots of runs back to back in my LR and it never slowed down.

I am curious if Tesla got the 3.1 second number with the 19" Tempest wheels, 95%+ SOC, warmed up summer tires and with the AC turned OFF in drag strip mode where the motors and battery were in optimum state to put down that power. Most of us don't turn off the HVAC units or necessarily put the car in drag strip mode to optimize the drivetrain when we floor our cars at a light but every little bit affects the amount of current that can be delivered to the motors. Of course, Tesla doesn't publish specifics in regards to their testing conditions but I would think that it was achieved by their engineers at some point. But what I love about my LR S is the pull above 80mph where my 2021 Model 3 LR w/ AB begins to fall flat.

Check out what this guy was able to achieve in his 2021 LR S

 

[Sam1]

I am curious if Tesla got the 3.1 second number with the 19" Tempest wheels, 95%+ SOC, warmed up summer tires and with the AC turned OFF in drag strip mode where the motors and battery were in optimum state to put down that power. Most of us don't turn off the HVAC units or necessarily put the car in drag strip mode to optimize the drivetrain when we floor our cars at a light but every little bit affects the amount of current that can be delivered to the motors. Of course, Tesla doesn't publish specifics in regards to their testing conditions but I would think that it was achieved by their engineers at some point. But what I love about my LR S is the pull above 80mph where my 2021 Model 3 LR w/ AB begins to fall flat.

Check out what this guy was able to achieve in his 2021 LR S

SoC doesn't matter much in the refresh S. I still turn a 9 second 1/4 mile at the drag strip on 19% SoC.

 

[DayTrippin]

I am curious if Tesla got the 3.1 second number with the 19" Tempest wheels, 95%+ SOC, warmed up summer tires and with the AC turned OFF in drag strip mode where the motors and battery were in optimum state to put down that power. Most of us don't turn off the HVAC units or necessarily put the car in drag strip mode to optimize the drivetrain when we floor our cars at a light but every little bit affects the amount of current that can be delivered to the motors. Of course, Tesla doesn't publish specifics in regards to their testing conditions but I would think that it was achieved by their engineers at some point. But what I love about my LR S is the pull above 80mph where my 2021 Model 3 LR w/ AB begins to fall flat.

I did all that and more. Somewhere on this site I chronicled everything I did to try and get the claimed time. I was sweating my butt off with it over 110F inside the car while making runs. It didn't matter. Nothing mattered. I meticulously went down the list of what I could change, none of it mattered.

A brief but incomplete recap.

100% SoC, 90%, 70% 50% 40%
Fresh off the charger
Drag strip mode
Cheetah stance
19" wheels
No AC or heat
Battery totally warmed up
No wind
Good road surface
Slip mode on
Slip mode off
Different direction
Removed every possible thing out of the car including floor mats, papers, shelves, etc.
Washed and ceramic coated the car
Headlights off
No accessories on at all
Windows up
Windows down
Running every cardinal direction (NESW)
Early morning, mid-morning, noon, afternoon, late afternoon, night

First timed run I did was about a 3.55 on a 90% SoC, wasn't a good start to my testing and was pretty depressing.

Look at that above list. Not a single change to any of those made any measurable difference in the 0-60. I could run the AC full blast and my times would be the same as if I didn't. I could be at a 70% SoC, full AC, blasting the radio, and still no difference. Start with that and add in the car seat and still the same times. Even at 40% SoC, AC and radio on, it would still run a low 3.4 and maybe a high 3.3 if I had a good run. Most of my runs fell in the 3.3-3.4 range. Very few in 3.2 range and all in the upper 3.2's.

I finally gave up and punted the car. I couldn't see any scenario it was going to run a 3.1 and still haven't seen an LR run a 3.1 flat yet. As far as I am concerned Tesla lied. They could roll out an update tomorrow and likely fix it if they wanted. Likely will never happen.

With the Plaid, even if I never can run the claimed 1.99 on the street, it is just fast enough I never really care. The LR was so slow off the line it was pretty boring for me. It never felt as quick off the line as all the M3P's I drove. They will absolutely crush the MS LR in a stop light drag to 60 mph.

Since buying the Plaid there isn't a single day I miss the LR. A quick 0-20 launch in the Plaid is far more fun than running an entire 1/4 mile pass in the LR.

 

[dsc888]

I did all that and more. Somewhere on this site I chronicled everything I did to try and get the claimed time. I was sweating my butt off with it over 110F inside the car while making runs. It didn't matter. Nothing mattered. I meticulously went down the list of what I could change, none of it mattered.

A brief but incomplete recap.

100% SoC, 90%, 70% 50% 40%
Fresh off the charger
Drag strip mode
Cheetah stance
19" wheels
No AC or heat
Battery totally warmed up
No wind
Good road surface
Slip mode on
Slip mode off
Different direction
Removed every possible thing out of the car including floor mats, papers, shelves, etc.
Washed and ceramic coated the car
Headlights off
No accessories on at all
Windows up
Windows down
Running every cardinal direction (NESW)
Early morning, mid-morning, noon, afternoon, late afternoon, night

First timed run I did was about a 3.55 on a 90% SoC, wasn't a good start to my testing and was pretty depressing.

Look at that above list. Not a single change to any of those made any measurable difference in the 0-60. I could run the AC full blast and my times would be the same as if I didn't. I could be at a 70% SoC, full AC, blasting the radio, and still no difference. Start with that and add in the car seat and still the same times. Even at 40% SoC, AC and radio on, it would still run a low 3.4 and maybe a high 3.3 if I had a good run. Most of my runs fell in the 3.3-3.4 range. Very few in 3.2 range and all in the upper 3.2's.

I finally gave up and punted the car. I couldn't see any scenario it was going to run a 3.1 and still haven't seen an LR run a 3.1 flat yet. As far as I am concerned Tesla lied. They could roll out an update tomorrow and likely fix it if they wanted. Likely will never happen.

With the Plaid, even if I never can run the claimed 1.99 on the street, it is just fast enough I never really care. The LR was so slow off the line it was pretty boring for me. It never felt as quick off the line as all the M3P's I drove. They will absolutely crush the MS LR in a stop light drag to 60 mph.

Since buying the Plaid there isn't a single day I miss the LR. A quick 0-20 launch in the Plaid is far more fun than running an entire 1/4 mile pass in the LR.

Thanks for the clarification! So unless you had a dud drive motor or 2, this is likely the reality for all of us LR owners. I absolutely have to agree that the car is bit of a letdown from a dig. My Model 3 LR with AB is downright "aggressive" on initial throttle tip in. The S LR doesn't come to life till after 40 MPH. I would have to agree that there is nothing physical, other than gearing, that would hold the LR back. Most likely Tesla realizes that seat of the pants feel on a test-drive will sell the Plaid if they detune the LR at city speeds where you would expect more oomph.

But having said that, I still chose the LR for the range, cost savings and the fact that I rarely floor the throttle in day to day driving. It's perfect for my family use case and I do see that there is absolutely a demographic market for those who choose the Plaid instead. Glad you are satisfied with your choice!

 

[DayTrippin]

Thanks for the clarification! So unless you had a dud drive motor or 2, this is likely the reality for all of us LR owners. I absolutely have to agree that the car is bit of a letdown from a dig. My Model 3 LR with AB is downright "aggressive" on initial throttle tip in. The S LR doesn't come to life till after 40 MPH. I would have to agree that there is nothing physical, other than gearing, that would hold the LR back. Most likely Tesla realizes that seat of the pants feel on a test-drive will sell the Plaid if they detune the LR at city speeds where you would expect more oomph.

But having said that, I still chose the LR for the range, cost savings and the fact that I rarely floor the throttle in day to day driving. It's perfect for my family use case and I do see that there is absolutely a demographic market for those who choose the Plaid instead. Glad you are satisfied with your choice!

I think we are all screwed with the performance. Mine checked out fine by Tesla. So if that matters to someone, best to move on. I bought the MS LR thinking it would at least be as quick as the M3P, and most likely quicker. I based other purchasing decisions around it. I bought an MY LR thinking we'd at least have one quick car in the house.

The MY LR turned out to be a dog even with a boost. The MS LR was a huge letdown and found out that a good running MYP would run with it or possibly beat it to 60. Pretty soon I didn't care how good it was at other things, it needed to go. If we had bought the M3P or MYP along with the MS LR, might have thought more about keeping it. As for the M3 LR AB, definitely, a lot more fun to drive off the line than the MS LR was. I spend about 60% of my time in that car rather than the Plaid.

Our M3 LR AB is a great city car. The Plaid is like an ICBM that you need to make sure you have a clear shot when you pull the trigger. Not typically something I want to hop in and drive a mile to the Piggly Wiggly if you know what I mean. Whenever I have the chance to take it on a drive where I can at least hit the throttle for a few seconds, I am gone before my wife can ask where I went. She also knows if our child is missing which car I took. The kid knows what car is the really fun one.

 

[dsc888]

Our M3 LR AB is a great city car. The Plaid is like an ICBM that you need to make sure you have a clear shot when you pull the trigger. Not typically something I want to hop in and drive a mile to the Piggly Wiggly if you know what I mean. Whenever I have the chance to take it on a drive where I can at least hit the throttle for a few seconds, I am gone before my wife can ask where I went. She also knows if our child is missing which car I took. The kid knows what car is the really fun one.

Funny you say that! My 3 feels downright like a go kart after driving the S. I prefer the seats in the 3 more even. But the noise and rough ride makes it less refined. Maybe the Highland refresh will fix both the noise and ride issues. If that happens, I would not hesitate to consider a M3P Highland and give the S to my wife and my LR with AB to my teenage son once he gets his license (Locked in Chill Mode, of course ;-]). I came from a BMW 340i Sport so I do value handling and performance to some degree.

 

[Sam1]

I did all that and more. Somewhere on this site I chronicled everything I did to try and get the claimed time. I was sweating my butt off with it over 110F inside the car while making runs. It didn't matter. Nothing mattered. I meticulously went down the list of what I could change, none of it mattered.

A brief but incomplete recap.

100% SoC, 90%, 70% 50% 40%
Fresh off the charger
Drag strip mode
Cheetah stance
19" wheels
No AC or heat
Battery totally warmed up
No wind
Good road surface
Slip mode on
Slip mode off
Different direction
Removed every possible thing out of the car including floor mats, papers, shelves, etc.
Washed and ceramic coated the car
Headlights off
No accessories on at all
Windows up
Windows down
Running every cardinal direction (NESW)
Early morning, mid-morning, noon, afternoon, late afternoon, night

First timed run I did was about a 3.55 on a 90% SoC, wasn't a good start to my testing and was pretty depressing.

Look at that above list. Not a single change to any of those made any measurable difference in the 0-60. I could run the AC full blast and my times would be the same as if I didn't. I could be at a 70% SoC, full AC, blasting the radio, and still no difference. Start with that and add in the car seat and still the same times. Even at 40% SoC, AC and radio on, it would still run a low 3.4 and maybe a high 3.3 if I had a good run. Most of my runs fell in the 3.3-3.4 range. Very few in 3.2 range and all in the upper 3.2's.

I finally gave up and punted the car. I couldn't see any scenario it was going to run a 3.1 and still haven't seen an LR run a 3.1 flat yet. As far as I am concerned Tesla lied. They could roll out an update tomorrow and likely fix it if they wanted. Likely will never happen.

With the Plaid, even if I never can run the claimed 1.99 on the street, it is just fast enough I never really care. The LR was so slow off the line it was pretty boring for me. It never felt as quick off the line as all the M3P's I drove. They will absolutely crush the MS LR in a stop light drag to 60 mph.

Since buying the Plaid there isn't a single day I miss the LR. A quick 0-20 launch in the Plaid is far more fun than running an entire 1/4 mile pass in the LR.

Fastest MSLR on dragy is at 3.18 --- no clue on if anything was modded. Second one is at 3.20

 

[DayTrippin]

Funny you say that! My 3 feels downright like a go kart after driving the S. I prefer the seats in the 3 more even. But the noise and rough ride makes it less refined. Maybe the Highland refresh will fix both the noise and ride issues. If that happens, I would not hesitate to consider a M3P Highland and give the S to my wife and my LR with AB to my teenage son once he gets his license (Locked in Chill Mode, of course ;-]). I came from a BMW 340i Sport so I do value handling and performance to some degree.

The noise isn't too bad in ours. There is a company that makes a sound-deadening kit to help in the trunk area.

I went with MPP adjustable coilovers and have taken care of the ride issue and improved the handling at the same time.

Fastest MSLR on dragy is at 3.18 --- no clue on if anything was modded. Second one is at 3.20

Thanks for sharing. Still nobody to even meet the claimed time. If you look at the M3P's there were a bunch of stock ones beating their claimed times. Heck, the first M3P I ever tested ran a 3.07 vs its 3.1 claimed time. I think the SoC was about 80%. It was a demo one they let me take for a run.

It had me thinking as I went to place my order, "wow if a random M3P can easily beat its claimed 3.1 0-60 time, my MS LR should at least meet its claimed time." Silly for me to trust Tesla.

 

[FileTitan]

Consistently running in the 10.8 range and around 128-129. That was according to an old Dragy I used that matched very closely to when I used it with other vehicles as the track. I almost never made any runs at 100% SoC as I didn't see any improvement the few times I ran it. Most of my runs were in the 65-75% range. Again SoC didn't seem to make much of a difference.

I did a lot more 0-60 runs. All my 1/4 mile runs were 0-60 ones that I was able to extend in my testing area.

Did you use "Drag stirp mode" for the runs?

 

[DayTrippin]

See my post upstream of this thread here. It wasn't an exhaustive list of what all I tried but most of what quickly came to mind.

Dyno Results for Model S refresh LR?

Consistently running in the 10.8 range and around 128-129. That was according to an old Dragy I used that matched very closely to when I used it with other vehicles as the track. I almost never made any runs at 100% SoC as I didn't see any improvement the few times I ran it. Most of my runs were...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[mulot30th]

VS the fastest P100d on dragy:

View attachment 959217

the quickest pre plaid model S. was mine. heres dragy

 

[DayTrippin]

Was it stock or did you mod it and take weight out of it?

 

[Sam1]

Was it stock or did you mod it and take weight out of it?

10.3 is average for a 2020 MSP. 10.4 is about average for a P100D.

 

[mulot30th]

Was it stock or did you mod it and take weight out of it?

similar to lasergeorges it was gutted. for about 380lbs off


fastest timeslip on that one was 10.27

 

[Unclepaul]

Issue with dyno testing is that 5 different cars, on 5 different dynos on 5 different days will give 5 different results.

 

[Sam1]

Issue with dyno testing is that 5 different cars, on 5 different dynos on 5 different days will give 5 different results.

A dyno is a measurement tool, not an accomplishment. So having 5 different results is expected.

 

[DayTrippin]

You can game a dyno but at the end of the day, you need a baseline. So if you dyno 5 MS LRs and they all show about 650WHP, and one is at 720WHP, I'm going to disregard the outlier. Then if I dyno 5 Plaids and 4 of them are at very close 1000WHP and one is at 980WHP, I'll disregard the outliers.

I can then infer that the Plaid makes about 350WHP more than the MS LR. So even if I don't have absolutes, I can make some assumptions that will be fairly accurate. In this case the Plaid makes about 50% more WHP than the LR. I am not looking for bragging rights as if my Plaid laid down the best numbers compared to everyone else.

If I were modifying my ICE motor, I'd do dyno runs for a baseline. I'd test it on the same dyno, the same way, and then see what my improvements, are, if any. I've found a lot of value in using dynos to see if I am making any gains, not to compare vs. my friends. The best place to compare vs my friends is on the track, not a dyno. Unless of course, they want to come to the same dyno and do a run before or after me on the same day and time. Then that is a relevant comparison.