So I’ve been battling with this since I got my car and I really don’t now what to do. I’ve tried all the methods from I love coffee video and that hasn’t helped. I was looking at my trunk again today and I noticed that the left side might be misaligned compared to the right but I wanted you all opinions. Could this be causing the head pressure and dizziness?
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
ilovecoffee
Member
This gap is likely due to adjusting the hatch stops.
It does look like quite a bit.
If I had to guess something is awry with the calibration of the hatch stops over the tail lights.
Here are my hatch stops after adjusting them just now but that panel gap still exists
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ilovecoffee
Member
Yeah nothing looks out of the ordinary there...
Hrm. I wonder if there really is an alignment issue in your case with the way the door is bolted on. One other user here has had their door re-adjusted by a body shop which had solved their issue. I'd probably see what I could get away with Tesla service first under warranty before asking a body shop.
I'll schedule an appointment and have them take a look but I am worried that since their technician "can't feel or replicate" the pressure changes and headache that I experience they might just turn me away with no other solutions.
I've really tried my best to get myself used to the way the model Y is but it's really disappointing that im forcing myself to have to deal with this.
Anything else you recommend me trying first?
ilovecoffee
Member
Well I'd remove the tubing before you take it in.
But I'd recommend you coach them to the diagnosis you want... Which is that there is some kind of alignment issue that you cannot fix (and disclose you've already tried to adjust the hatch stops to avoid having to bring it in for service)
See what they do... And see if they can fix that alignment gap. If they do maybe try reinstalling tubing after they do an alignment. Then make slight adjustments after tubing to make sure contact is being made.
If they fail to address the mismatch gap maybe ask a body shop in your area that works on Teslas... Maybe a couple hundred but worth a shot.
Also have you tried rigid hatch stops yet?
I haven’t. I don’t have a 3D printer and I don’t know where to get them from. Do you know how I can get some?
ilovecoffee
Member
Well it doesn't have to be 3D printed, check MY-Y's thread here
Easy and effective low frequency fix
I have solved the low frequency issue with my car. I had a 41 Hz standing wave that would come and go. It wasn't good. If the hatch bumpers are loose, a crazy subsonic buffeting occurs. I'm talking about the annoying rumble that is still there when the bumpers are properly adjusted. To keep it...
teslamotorsclub.com
There are some that made it with various methods.
Also Etsy has some people that do 3d printing maybe local to you that are pretty cost effective.
Do you know the size of the stop? The printer guy is asking me. ThanksWell it doesn't have to be 3D printed, check MY-Y's thread here
Easy and effective low frequency fix
I have solved the low frequency issue with my car. I had a 41 Hz standing wave that would come and go. It wasn't good. If the hatch bumpers are loose, a crazy subsonic buffeting occurs. I'm talking about the annoying rumble that is still there when the bumpers are properly adjusted. To keep it...
There are some that made it with various methods.
Also Etsy has some people that do 3d printing maybe local to you that are pretty cost effective.
ilovecoffee
Member
There are multiple files based on the depth of the rubber portion of the hatch stop. You'll need to measure yours to know. You can always go a bit longer and sand it down.
Ugh but maybe my hatch stops aren’t totally in the right position yet? I’m not 100% sure how I have them is correct.
ilovecoffee
Member
Believe me I know the struggle. I probably fiddled with mine (no exaggeration) probably over 100 times. I have abused them lol.
So in my OCD experience, as I mentioned before, focusing on the ones above the tail lights is the most critical. To focus on those, you need to screw in completely the other ones in the middle of the door so they do not make contact.
Then working with the "main ones", adjust them until both sides grip paper that can't be removed. Ideally, the latching mechanism should make a slight popping sound when opening, which means there's tension/rigidity.
After that, adjust the remaining stops so they also grip paper. This is a bit trickier and sometimes it seems like they don't grip paper properly, so just use your best guess. They shouldn't be over-extended because then they are also pushing away the other stops you just calibrated.
Then with your body weight, press down on the hatch door and look at the gap. Is it impossible to move? Congrats! Does it move still? Back to the drawing board, possible that one or more stops are not out enough.
Saying all this, as I said your pictures look normal.
Is there supposed to be any slight give when I bounce on the latch? Or 0 movement
ilovecoffee
Member
Well I guess I'm pretty lightweight, and I also happen to have those rigid hatch stops which probably help quite a bit in that regard. But if I had to guess it should be pretty imperceptible movement.
I just readjusted them per your instructions and there is slight give when I bounce but I’ll go for a drive later and see if that helped
ilovecoffee
Member
I just readjusted them per your instructions and there is slight give when I bounce but I’ll go for a drive later and see if that helped
The struggle is real lol
I've done most of the above(I still have the stock suspension) and the suggestions from this very long thread helped quite a bit, but I was still able to sense mild pressure changes while driving on certain types of road surfaces. A month ago, I took a weighted blanked, folded it up and placed it in back, however it was too long and had to fold it. I went for a test drive and no noticeable change. Disappointed with the results, but I still wanted to see if it would further soak up any general highway noise, I left it in the car and put it underneath the rear cargo mat. However, I didn't like the idea of it being folded, so I put the seats down and as I was raising them back up I stuffed the extra blanket down behind the seat, just to hide it. To my surprise, I don't sense the mild buffeting like I used to! A noticeable improvement in comfort and I have no idea why. I'm just sharing my experience and can't explain it! This is definitely a weird one!
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ilovecoffee
Member
Interesting! Will have to take a look back there. I mean I'm pretty sure I've ripped that area apart for sound deadening but I don't think I applied it in that specific vicinity.
I have some moving blankets that I will try that on, if it works I'll put dense foam blocks back there.
GeoffEV
Member
Just now searched for "undercoating" and don't see replies to your great query. If you removed wheel well covers and sprayed undercoating, please let me know as I'd like to follow suit! A buddy just got a '23 YLR and his wheel wells are dead silent compared to my August built YLR and I think it's what Tesla did, but he won't let me remove 1 wheelwell to find out...can't blame him bc it's a week old!
