EVSE Necesarry?

[Sacrament055]

Make sure your breaker takes that type of breaker (Siemens Q style). But as for rating it looks right. There are numerous types of breakers. I took some close up pictures of my breaker panel information sheet, and the breakers themselves and then went down to Lowes. I picked up a NEMA 14-50 receptacle, a breaker, a face plate and junction box all for about $20. I whipped out my phone and matched the breaker information on my pictures to the correct breaker at Lowes.

You only need a 2 pole breaker, you only need to break the hot feeds. Your neutral and ground go back to your bus bars in your main panel.

As for wire I got some free THNN wire from work, and some scrap conduit. So I had 4 sepearte wires. Your wire is Romex 6-3 with ground. It actually has 4 wires in it. You have 3 wires at 6 gauge which are for you two hots and neutral. There will be another ground wire which will be smaller. Your neutral and ground skip the breaker in your panel and tie directly into the neutral and ground bus.

Thanks to all that replied, I think I now have enough info to put together my home charging solution

 

[wycolo]

> to me that equals "not gonna happen" (charge an hour to drive an hour). [gregincal]

Road Trip (!!) to Nova Scotia. Are you gonna wait extra years for *complete* X-country SC coverage, or take whatever SC patchwork is available at the time you want to travel? Filling in the gaps with campground or L2 chargeups could prove relaxing and recreational.
--


-usual disclaimer goes HERE-

 

[SteveWest]

To me that equals "not gonna happen" (charge an hour to drive an hour). But to each his own.

In New Zealand we're unlikely to see any Superchargers for many years (if ever), so the Model S owners here will have to make do with 20kW charging on roadtrips for the foreseeable future. It would be nice if something approximating Supercharger power levels were available for purchase (eg by a syndicate of Tesla owners), so the possibility of CHAdeMo and J1772 Combo adapters could be our saviour, assuming chargers are available at less than astronomical prices.

 

[FlasherZ]

Thanks to all of you for the answers. Here is a new question based on the last response: What does the letter after the NEMA 14-50 mean? I'm seeing 14-50r and 14-50p for example and I'm really just looking at what material I'm going to need to buy (Receptacle/Outlet, Wire, Circuit Breaker)
Here's what I think I need and you can tell me if this will or won't work.
1. Amazon.com: Leviton 279-C00 50A, 125/250V, NEMA 14-50R, 3P, 4W, Flush Mtg Cheetah Receptacle, Black: Home Improvement
2. Southwire 125 ft. Black 6-3 Romex NM-B W/G Wire-63950002 at The Home Depot
3. Amazon.com: Siemens Q260 60-Amp 2 Pole 240-Volt Circuit Breaker: Home Improvement

thanks

You will also need the mounting box for the receptacle, and proper clamps for the Romex to enter the box, as well as cable clamps / long staples to hold the cable down to framing members within 12" of the box and circuit breaker panel. If you are surface-mounting the box, you must feed from the back if the receptacle is mounted below 7'. If you're mounting inside a wall, you'll be ok. You may not have exposed Romex where it is "subject to damage", in most jurisdictions this is considered anything below 7'.

As mentioned already, 50A receptacles may not be placed on a 60A circuit.

 

[Sacrament055]

You will also need the mounting box for the receptacle, and proper clamps for the Romex to enter the box, as well as cable clamps / long staples to hold the cable down to framing members within 12" of the box and circuit breaker panel. If you are surface-mounting the box, you must feed from the back if the receptacle is mounted below 7'. If you're mounting inside a wall, you'll be ok. You may not have exposed Romex where it is "subject to damage", in most jurisdictions this is considered anything below 7'.

As mentioned already, 50A receptacles may not be placed on a 60A circuit.

I haven't looked at the insides yet but I have a standard 110 outlet in the garage that I'd like to run this cable through the existing conduit and punch down a new junction box to be used with this 240 outlet.

thanks for the added info

 

[FlasherZ]

I haven't looked at the insides yet but I have a standard 110 outlet in the garage that I'd like to run this cable through the existing conduit and punch down a new junction box to be used with this 240 outlet.

thanks for the added info

How big is the conduit? You're going to have a problem with using #6 Romex in the conduit because of conduit fill issues. You will need a minimum of 1" conduit - which you likely don't have to a 120V receptacle - to be compliant with code. In theory it will *fit* in a 3/4" conduit, but you'll be breaking the rules (and likely swearing all the way).

 

[Sacrament055]

How big is the conduit? You're going to have a problem with using #6 Romex in the conduit because of conduit fill issues. You will need a minimum of 1" conduit - which you likely don't have to a 120V receptacle - to be compliant with code. In theory it will *fit* in a 3/4" conduit, but you'll be breaking the rules (and likely swearing all the way).

I have a dryer hooked up around 5 feet away (laundry room) Maybe I can extend from there and run through the same conduit?

 

[FlasherZ]

On my phone here with no access to my references but it will require details. More than 3 current carrying conductors in a conduit requires derating. I'd need the conduit size, the size of your dryer wires and circuit.

If you have conduit back to the panel already why not forego the romex and use individual wires thhn?

 

[Sacrament055]

On my phone here with no access to my references but it will require details. More than 3 current carrying conductors in a conduit requires derating. I'd need the conduit size, the size of your dryer wires and circuit.

If you have conduit back to the panel already why not forego the romex and use individual wires thhn?

Good point, I'll look into that.