Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Exploring Solar Panel Options: Questions and Considerations for Chicago Suburbs

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Hi all,

I am interested in going solar panel. I am in the Chicago suburbs, and my monthly ComEd bills are around $250 in winter and $360 in summer. My monthly usage is 1730 kWh. I went to tesla.com and got the following quote. My home faces southwest, has no shading, wide open areas, a shingle roof, and a steep slope.

Questions/Concerns:

Will going solar actually generate enough power for my usage? Do I still have to rely on ComEd other than the monthly connection fees?

My roof was installed in 2019 after a hailstorm, so it's still pretty new. Will solar installation increase the risk of roof damage? I've heard stories from others who complain about roof leak issues after solar installation.

I plan to get at least 1 or 2 Powerwalls. Is this worth it? There are very few outage issues in my area, but my main thought is to use the Powerwall at night so I wouldn't have to rely on the grid.

Please let me know your thoughts and advice.

Thank you!


Your System

18.225 kW Solar Panels
$49,572
1 Powerwall
$14,500
Solar & Powerwall Discount
-$3,700
Cash Price
$60,372
Potential Incentives


Federal Tax Credit (30%)
-$13,191
IL Shines
-$16,403
ComEd



Price After Potential Incentives
$30,779


Est. Financing Details

$4,397 down, 120 months, 6.99% APR
Est. Loan Payment
$459 /mo
Est. Loan Payment After Pre‑Payment

$295 /mo


Est. 25-Year Net Savings
$33,976
 
1) Warranty is critical. These investments should be considered as upgrades to the home. All my equipment is 25 year warranty (I used Panasonic panels and Enphase IQ8 inverters. I would use string converters with DC optimizers next time). I also purchased a 30 year warranty that includes parts and labor.

2) Installer quality is really really important too. I've heard way too many horror stories of leaking roofs, etc. I picked installer first, told him what I wanted, and went from there. WAY too many johnny come lately's in this field.

3) I did not, and would not, run a powerwall. Maybe if a location that didn't netmeter, but so long as you're getting 1:1 netmetering, and I think you are, I would never run a powerwall. External natural gas generator maybe. BTW, the future of EV's is going to soon include V2L, so soon enough our cars will be powerwalls. IMO Powerwalls will be dinosaurs soon enough. Meaning don't expect to get your money back on the powerwall. On the panels? Yep.

Price: I paid a premium, but Panasonics and Maxeon's are the top two panels in the industry. I paid $64k for a 21KW system with a production estimate of 28MW per annum.

Panel selection between the upper crust panels is all about power density per your roof. In general you'll want more than you think (assuming you've got good exposure). EV's take a ton of power (think 6MW each EV), and you may well end up owning two. I also found I'm not making the power expected this year. I was estimated to be at 28MW, I'll end the first year with only 27MW. Rats. Sadly I had no more good roof exposure left.

I'm saving $7-8K per year, and assume my home value already increased commensurate with my investment. IMO the savings is funding the surcharge of purchasing an EV.
 
1) Warranty is critical. These investments should be considered as upgrades to the home. All my equipment is 25 year warranty (I used Panasonic panels and Enphase IQ8 inverters. I would use string converters with DC optimizers next time). I also purchased a 30 year warranty that includes parts and labor.

2) Installer quality is really really important too. I've heard way too many horror stories of leaking roofs, etc. I picked installer first, told him what I wanted, and went from there. WAY too many johnny come lately's in this field.

3) I did not, and would not, run a powerwall. Maybe if a location that didn't netmeter, but so long as you're getting 1:1 netmetering, and I think you are, I would never run a powerwall. External natural gas generator maybe. BTW, the future of EV's is going to soon include V2L, so soon enough our cars will be powerwalls. IMO Powerwalls will be dinosaurs soon enough. Meaning don't expect to get your money back on the powerwall. On the panels? Yep.

Price: I paid a premium, but Panasonics and Maxeon's are the top two panels in the industry. I paid $64k for a 21KW system with a production estimate of 28MW per annum.

Panel selection between the upper crust panels is all about power density per your roof. In general you'll want more than you think (assuming you've got good exposure). EV's take a ton of power (think 6MW each EV), and you may well end up owning two. I also found I'm not making the power expected this year. I was estimated to be at 28MW, I'll end the first year with only 27MW. Rats. Sadly I had no more good roof exposure left.

I'm saving $7-8K per year, and assume my home value already increased commensurate with my investment. IMO the savings is funding the surcharge of purchasing an EV.
Thanks for your reply.

Are you able to generate enough power throughout the year, even during winter or on rainy days? I understand that solar panels may not operate at full capacity when sunlight is limited.

Does Tesla allow me to choose the installer? You mentioned that you went with another solar provider. Is there any specific reason why you didn't choose Tesla?

This makes sense. I do plan to get a second electric vehicle in the future. I currently have a Model Y Long Range 2023. I'm just curious if Tesla allows Vehicle-to-Load (V2L) functionality and if it would work with existing Tesla cars.

I am just tired of dealing with ComEd. Their rates have been increasing over the years. I figure if I have to pay them $250-350 monthly, I might as well finance my own solar system and eventually own it.

Thank you for your input.
 
I think you have this picture of not importing any power from the grid, even during winter and rainy days, and it doesnt really work that way. If you are connected to the grid, most utilities will only let you size your PV at about 100-125% of your YEARLY usage, and that isnt enough for people to be off grid during winter.


Even if you could size your system such that dont need to import any energy during winter, it would be super oversized for most of the year (march to october).

If you choose Tesla, tesla is the installer. You can choose whomever you want to do your Solar install, but going with Tesla is choosing them as an installer. Going with sunpower is choosing them as an installler. Going with Semper Solaris is choosing them as an installer. Going with Sunrun... well you likely get the idea.

As for "why Tesla" or "Why not Tesla", generally thats a customer service question and we have a large thread here discussing tesla customer service experiences that I will direct you to:


It does suffer from the forum bias situation that people tend to come online to complain, but there is enough feedback there to show you that some people have challenges with Tesla in this regard. Many of us have Tesla solar installs and had no issues, but this is a construction project, and should be considered accordingly. Its not like buying a car, its like re doing your kitchen. If you expect to have a lot of input into the process, or have lots of questions you want answered or feedback you want to give, Tesla is not the right company for you. You should choose another company that has a more high touch approach.

No, tesla does not currently allow Vehicle 2 load capability, and has made no announcements at all stating this will be a thing. No current Tesla vehicle is able to do this (they dont even have bi directional chargers), and it is HIGHLY unlikely any Tesla solution that might (emphasis on might) be offered in the future would be offered to people who dont already have Tesla powerwalls. There is zero reason for Tesla to do so.

Other vehicles may offer this more in the future, but people have this picture of just installing a $400-$500 charger and then using their car to power their home and it doesnt work that way, even now, for vehicles that currently offer that. If you are thinking about vehicle to load, you need to buy a car that offers that now, and dont plan on any Tesla vehicle offering it until or unless there is one shipping. It has not even been promised, and even if it was, Tesla promises of features can be ignored until they are actually on the road / in the wild.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sunwarriors
I think you have this picture of not importing any power from the grid, even during winter and rainy days, and it doesnt really work that way. If you are connected to the grid, most utilities will only let you size your PV at about 100-125% of your YEARLY usage, and that isnt enough for people to be off grid during winter.


Even if you could size your system such that dont need to import any energy during winter, it would be super oversized for most of the year (march to october).

If you choose Tesla, tesla is the installer. You can choose whomever you want to do your Solar install, but going with Tesla is choosing them as an installer. Going with sunpower is choosing them as an installler. Going with Semper Solaris is choosing them as an installer. Going with Sunrun... well you likely get the idea.

As for "why Tesla" or "Why not Tesla", generally thats a customer service question and we have a large thread here discussing tesla customer service experiences that I will direct you to:


It does suffer from the forum bias situation that people tend to come online to complain, but there is enough feedback there to show you that some people have challenges with Tesla in this regard. Many of us have Tesla solar installs and had no issues, but this is a construction project, and should be considered accordingly. Its not like buying a car, its like re doing your kitchen. If you expect to have a lot of input into the process, or have lots of questions you want answered or feedback you want to give, Tesla is not the right company for you. You should choose another company that has a more high touch approach.

No, tesla does not currently allow Vehicle 2 load capability, and has made no announcements at all stating this will be a thing. No current Tesla vehicle is able to do this (they dont even have bi directional chargers), and it is HIGHLY unlikely any Tesla solution that might (emphasis on might) be offered in the future would be offered to people who dont already have Tesla powerwalls. There is zero reason for Tesla to do so.

Other vehicles may offer this more in the future, but people have this picture of just installing a $400-$500 charger and then using their car to power their home and it doesnt work that way, even now, for vehicles that currently offer that. If you are thinking about vehicle to load, you need to buy a car that offers that now, and dont plan on any Tesla vehicle offering it until or unless there is one shipping. It has not even been promised, and even if it was, Tesla promises of features can be ignored until they are actually on the road / in the wild.
Thanks for explaining. I am going to wait for the design to come back and do more analysis. I'm still debating whether I need a Powerwall or not. Just out of curiosity, what are some things I could do or prepare to ensure that the roof installation is done properly without any leaks? Since my roof is only 3 years old, if I remember correctly, it has 30-year architectural shingles.

Thank you for your help.
 
I was in the same boat for my roof - it was replaced in 2019 , by a hailstorm also.

Tesla does warranty the roof for leaks for 10 years, but I've heard mixed reviews on their response time. If you have a leak, you will want very quick response.

There are times that Tesla uses contractors, but it will show on their solar quoting site.
1689620485682.png

I have noticed that the pricing for contractors is 30-40% higher through Tesla, but you either have Tesla installers or they note certified installers. There is no choice, other than finding third party installers that install Tesla. Now that you've seen Tesla's prices however, don't expect them to be in the same ballpark.

My personal suggestion is to get the maximum you can comfortably afford. You will see many other posts about people trying to add to their existing install and the trouble they have finding anyone to do it. Best to buy that boat with the maximum HP it will support, than spend every day wishing you had. I expect the average electricy usage to continue upwards, not the other way around. Having more than you need will help you grow into it, rather than out of it.

On the batteries, I'd venture to say that unless you live in an area with time-based pricing, the investment for a Powerwall will not come to a decent ROI. I personally purchased Powerwalls for my install, but I knew the ROI would be about the lifetime of the units. What I did buy them for was peace of mind and so we could continue to operate in an extended outage (Florida - so potential hurricanes). My area never had outages very often before, but since having my system, we are getting outages every few months. I wouldn't even know it if Tesla didn't notify me of grid outages. If I had only solar - well, when the grid is down your solar is shut off. That is to protect line workers from energized lines. With batteries however, you can keep running and the gateway shuts off sending power back to the grid.

If you are seriously considering, let me suggest a few things:
1) get an emporia vue circuit usage monitor (or two, depending on how many breakers) so you can understand where your usage comes from. Your utility bill will show overall usage, but knowing what is using the most can be super helpful
2) If you have an older AC unit, the starting amps may be higher than what one or two powerwalls can start. Consider a soft-start switch or adding additional powerwalls to compensate.
3) If you have a chimney or somewhere you can place a camera to capture your roof during the day, that will be helpful to understand what may be shaded at certain times of the day. That will come in handy for designing a layout
4) A weatherflow Tempest weather station will also track your solar radiation and lux at your house. You can view this data over time to determine overall generation you may expect.

Ok, my 2 cents are spent, happy shopping!
 
Random:

It appears those living in Ca have quite a few limitations. I suppose I'm not surprised. I'm in Illinois, as are you, although I'm in Ameren territory. Many of the things a Ca solar owner will tell you don't apply or have diminished rational here.

Just in case you or future readers don't understand 1:1 netmetering, it essentially means I can put power onto the grid, for free, and take a matching amount off, at any time, also for free. I don't "sell" my power, I give it away for a right to reuse a matching amount at any time. Should I run out (won't happen to me for now) I would pay market rates for whatever I then consumed for that month. My balance is reset to zero each April.

I produce a LOT more then my annual consumption showed. My son (I did the design for his and my house and we both bought systems) makes an absolutely insane amount of power over what he uses.

Looking back over 5 years my home used 22MW as a max annual demand. I installed what should make 28MW. My son installed 42MW. I wanted to support an EV, which I've since purchased, and a PHEV. I'll be short for the second PHEV/EV. I'd have installed more but was out of quality roof exposure. My son didn't want to ever care about it again, just filled his optimum roof exposure and called it. I didn't check his annual consumption but he's making something like 170% of his historic demand. He's since bought a PHEV minivan and is thinking about an "S".

If installing max sized systems residentially here in Illinois you do have a rated panel output limit to manage to get paid easily via "Shines". The discussion of "Clipping", max solar radiance, and etc is too much for a post, but basically we undersized his microinverters one step. IRL he makes stupid power anyway. It amounts sort of to this: in Illinois no panel is every going to make rated power for more than a few minutes a day in the dead middle of summer. The rest of the time they won't output anything like max rated power. He installed as many panels as we could fit, derated via a smaller microinverter size and laughed ourselves sick at the actual power output relative to other Illinois systems (mine included). Of course this only works when you have a very large optimum roof area (he installed 88 panels).

Here is an article on clipping that's good enough: Solar Inverter Clipping: What it is and when it could be a good thing

If not clear yet, we both make a lot more power than I need for a year. Since I get to netmeter Ameren is my power store. In fact I only pulled more power from the grid than I produced in the months of December, January, and March. My "balance", built up in the months previous, was much more than I needed. I pay just under $11 a month for meter rental and that's it. Once I get a second EV I'll probably end up with a bill in March, maybe even February.

V2L: Tesla does not, yet, support this. That will change soon enough whether Elon likes it or not. This too is too complicated to explain in detail here, but basically something called the "Duck Curve" is forcing the utility industry to adjust to how renewable energy is managed. Not an issue in the midwest yet, most certainly is in the west. Probably why they have some of the rules they have about solar. Wrong answers of course, but leave it Ca. to demand we kill flys with biodegradable magnets. The right answer is obvious to engineering types and the utility industry. It's this:

1) We must develop, incent if needed, EV charging at the daytime work place. Basically we need to charge EV's while we're producing renewable energy (wind, solar).
2) Require Mfg's to support V2L. This will allow the now charged-during-the-day EV to power our homes at night when out renewable energy source is down/degraded. Perhaps not fully, but to a very large degree. (yes, I know appts create an issue). This would likely mean DC output from the EV, so when I talk about DC vs AC later keep this in mind.
3) Implement distributed Billing/Netmetering. You know how a Tesla identifies itself and starts charging automatically when plugged into a supercharger? Do that at the office but integrate it into your home account. Otherwise businesses won't want to pay for the charging cost.

It's this simple: There is no better answer, and all the crutches in the world, (see Ca rules) aren't real solves. The utility industry knows this and any deep reading on this will show you they are lobbying, correctly IMO, for above.

What does Tesla solar allow re installers? I've no idea. Again, I picked installer first, panel mfg next based on warranty and power density. Tesla never entered the picture. Stuff might be fine, perhaps a solid Tier 2 product, but I was demanding Tier 1. That gets into panel design details that affect both power density (not per panel, but per inch) and warranted annual degradation. Tesla panels just never came up. For all I know they aren't sold in my area.

I mentioned I used micro inverters (AC output). Better warranty and easier to wire, but 10 years from now might have been a mild mistake. Microinverters convert to A/C at the panel AND allow panel performance segmentation such that one panel, even a panel segment, with a low output (lets say shade) won't pull the entire array down (array, really string, panel output must, without optimizers, degrade to the lower common output of the panel of panel segment. DC optimizers, a more recent creation, allow the same panel optimization a microinverter does and keeps the panel at it's native DC output.

When using native DC output you bring the power down via DC (more costly to wire), to a larger inverted (called a string inverter). Those have a much shorter lifespan and aren't entirely cheap. On the other hand you're still DC. This would make integrating to an EV for V2L easier and cheaper. Or a powerwall. I don't know anything about Tesla's solutions, but they are likely string inverter based. If so, for goodness sake make sure they include DC optimizers. If not drop that direction dead.

Again, I used Microinverters. Enphase IQ8A's.

The canadian wildfires? Not helping my production darn it!

At some point it might be easier to just PM me your phone number. I'm happy to call and chat w/you if it helps you.

-d
 
Last edited:
Random:

It appears those living in Ca have quite a few limitations. I suppose I'm not surprised. I'm in Illinois, as are you, although I'm in Ameren territory. Many of the things a Ca solar owner will tell you don't apply or have diminished rational here.

Just in case you or future readers don't understand 1:1 netmetering, it essentially means I can put power onto the grid, for free, and take a matching amount off, at any time, also for free. I don't "sell" my power, I give it away for a right to reuse a matching amount at any time. Should I run out (won't happen to me for now) I would pay market rates for whatever I then consumed for that month. My balance is reset to zero each April.

I produce a LOT more then my annual consumption showed. My son (I did the design for his and my house and we both bought systems) makes an absolutely insane amount of power over what he uses.

Looking back over 5 years my home used 22MW as a max annual demand. I installed what should make 28MW. My son installed 42MW. I wanted to support an EV, which I've since purchased, and a PHEV. I'll be short for the second PHEV/EV. I'd have installed more but was out of quality roof exposure. My son didn't want to ever care about it again, just filled his optimum roof exposure and called it. I didn't check his annual consumption but he's making something like 170% of his historic demand. He's since bought a PHEV minivan and is thinking about an "S".

If installing max sized systems residentially here in Illinois you do have a rated panel output limit to manage to get paid easily via "Shines". The discussion of "Clipping", max solar radiance, and etc is too much for a post, but basically we undersized his microinverters one step. IRL he makes stupid power anyway. It amounts sort of to this: in Illinois no panel is every going to make rated power for more than a few minutes a day in the dead middle of summer. The rest of the time they won't output anything like max rated power. He installed as many panels as we could fit, derated via a smaller microinverter size and laughed ourselves sick at the actual power output relative to other Illinois systems (mine included). Of course this only works when you have a very large optimum roof area (he installed 88 panels).

Here is an article on clipping that's good enough: Solar Inverter Clipping: What it is and when it could be a good thing

If not clear yet, we both make a lot more power than I need for a year. Since I get to netmeter Ameren is my power store. In fact I only pulled more power from the grid than I produced in the months of December, January, and March. My "balance", built up in the months previous, was much more than I needed. I pay just under $11 a month for meter rental and that's it. Once I get a second EV I'll probably end up with a bill in March, maybe even February.

V2L: Tesla does not, yet, support this. That will change soon enough whether Elon likes it or not. This too is too complicated to explain in detail here, but basically something called the "Duck Curve" is forcing the utility industry to adjust to how renewable energy is managed. Not an issue in the midwest yet, most certainly is in the west. Probably why they have some of the rules they have about solar. Wrong answers of course, but leave it Ca. to demand we kill flys with biodegradable magnets. The right answer is obvious to engineering types and the utility industry. It's this:

1) We must develop, incent if needed, EV charging at the daytime work place. Basically we need to charge EV's while we're producing renewable energy (wind, solar).
2) Require Mfg's to support V2L. This will allow the now charged-during-the-day EV to power our homes at night when out renewable energy source is down/degraded. Perhaps not fully, but to a very large degree. (yes, I know appts create an issue). This would likely mean DC output from the EV, so when I talk about DC vs AC later keep this in mind.
3) Implement distributed Billing/Netmetering. You know how a Tesla identifies itself and starts charging automatically when plugged into a supercharger? Do that at the office but integrate it into your home account. Otherwise businesses won't want to pay for the charging cost.

It's this simple: There is no better answer, and all the crutches in the world, (see Ca rules) aren't real solves. The utility industry knows this and any deep reading on this will show you they are lobbying, correctly IMO, for above.

What does Tesla solar allow re installers? I've no idea. Again, I picked installer first, panel mfg next based on warranty and power density. Tesla never entered the picture. Stuff might be fine, perhaps a solid Tier 2 product, but I was demanding Tier 1. That gets into panel design details that affect both power density (not per panel, but per inch) and warranted annual degradation. Tesla panels just never came up. For all I know they aren't sold in my area.

I mentioned I used micro inverters (AC output). Better warranty and easier to wire, but 10 years from now might have been a mild mistake. Microinverters convert to A/C at the panel AND allow panel performance segmentation such that one panel, even a panel segment, with a low output (lets say shade) won't pull the entire array down (array, really string, panel output must, without optimizers, degrade to the lower common output of the panel of panel segment. DC optimizers, a more recent creation, allow the same panel optimization a microinverter does and keeps the panel at it's native DC output.

When using native DC output you bring the power down via DC (more costly to wire), to a larger inverted (called a string inverter). Those have a much shorter lifespan and aren't entirely cheap. On the other hand you're still DC. This would make integrating to an EV for V2L easier and cheaper. Or a powerwall. I don't know anything about Tesla's solutions, but they are likely string inverter based. If so, for goodness sake make sure they include DC optimizers. If not drop that direction dead.

Again, I used Microinverters. Enphase IQ8A's.

The canadian wildfires? Not helping my production darn it!

At some point it might be easier to just PM me your phone number. I'm happy to call and chat w/you if it helps you.

-d
Thanks, I am going to do my homework (great/lots of details)
 
I was in the same boat for my roof - it was replaced in 2019 , by a hailstorm also.

Tesla does warranty the roof for leaks for 10 years, but I've heard mixed reviews on their response time. If you have a leak, you will want very quick response.

There are times that Tesla uses contractors, but it will show on their solar quoting site.
View attachment 957091
I have noticed that the pricing for contractors is 30-40% higher through Tesla, but you either have Tesla installers or they note certified installers. There is no choice, other than finding third party installers that install Tesla. Now that you've seen Tesla's prices however, don't expect them to be in the same ballpark.

My personal suggestion is to get the maximum you can comfortably afford. You will see many other posts about people trying to add to their existing install and the trouble they have finding anyone to do it. Best to buy that boat with the maximum HP it will support, than spend every day wishing you had. I expect the average electricy usage to continue upwards, not the other way around. Having more than you need will help you grow into it, rather than out of it.

On the batteries, I'd venture to say that unless you live in an area with time-based pricing, the investment for a Powerwall will not come to a decent ROI. I personally purchased Powerwalls for my install, but I knew the ROI would be about the lifetime of the units. What I did buy them for was peace of mind and so we could continue to operate in an extended outage (Florida - so potential hurricanes). My area never had outages very often before, but since having my system, we are getting outages every few months. I wouldn't even know it if Tesla didn't notify me of grid outages. If I had only solar - well, when the grid is down your solar is shut off. That is to protect line workers from energized lines. With batteries however, you can keep running and the gateway shuts off sending power back to the grid.

If you are seriously considering, let me suggest a few things:
1) get an emporia vue circuit usage monitor (or two, depending on how many breakers) so you can understand where your usage comes from. Your utility bill will show overall usage, but knowing what is using the most can be super helpful
2) If you have an older AC unit, the starting amps may be higher than what one or two powerwalls can start. Consider a soft-start switch or adding additional powerwalls to compensate.
3) If you have a chimney or somewhere you can place a camera to capture your roof during the day, that will be helpful to understand what may be shaded at certain times of the day. That will come in handy for designing a layout
4) A weatherflow Tempest weather station will also track your solar radiation and lux at your house. You can view this data over time to determine overall generation you may expect.

Ok, my 2 cents are spent, happy shopping!
Thanks!
 
Four additional comments:

1) My selected vendor included a 30 P&L insurance as an added part of my otherwise 25 year warranty. I believe it was "Solar Ensure". I was told they only work with very large installers of proven track record. Might want to check into that.

2) Be certain you talk to your home insurance agent. Mine told me there was no change to my hail/roof coverage, and they would fully cover panel damage from hail,etc, including removing, repair, re-install. They also told me if the system was too expensive (it was) and my housor burned down I may not have enough total coverage. I simply increased my total insured value total. Done.

3) Buy someting like an emporia energy power monitoring system. Much cheaper way to monitor power consumption and quite handy. I think mine is more accurate than my Enphase power consumption monitoring (an option I also bought)

4) MONITOR YOUR SYSTEM. If it goes down you get to write a penalty check for the energy credits you failed to produce. Not good.

Good luck, let me know if I can help,

-d
 
Four additional comments:

1) My selected vendor included a 30 P&L insurance as an added part of my otherwise 25 year warranty. I believe it was "Solar Ensure". I was told they only work with very large installers of proven track record. Might want to check into that.

2) Be certain you talk to your home insurance agent. Mine told me there was no change to my hail/roof coverage, and they would fully cover panel damage from hail,etc, including removing, repair, re-install. They also told me if the system was too expensive (it was) and my housor burned down I may not have enough total coverage. I simply increased my total insured value total. Done.

3) Buy someting like an emporia energy power monitoring system. Much cheaper way to monitor power consumption and quite handy. I think mine is more accurate than my Enphase power consumption monitoring (an option I also bought)

4) MONITOR YOUR SYSTEM. If it goes down you get to write a penalty check for the energy credits you failed to produce. Not good.

Good luck, let me know if I can help,

-d
Thanks again! Will definitely check with my insurance as well.
 
For the roof damage question, Tesla doesn't currently have a way to add snow guards to the system to prevent large chunks of snow and ice causing damage to gutters or the first level. If your install is through a Tesla approved third party, they should be able to add snow guards at extra cost with a waiver from Tesla.