Free downloads for .STL speaker brackets etc for 3D printing

[RWAudio]

I've started to repurpose my website rwaudio.com to host the brackets and adapters etc that I've designed. Many of these are Tesla related, so I think they'd be useful for many members of this community. I have a day job at an EV related startup so I'm not looking to turn this into a business which is why I'd like to offer the .STL files for free with support/donation being completely optional. There is also no advertising on the website, so I'm not trying to attract traffic, hopefully all of this allows me to stay within the rules of this forum and contribute to the community at the same time.

The library will build over time, however I'd like to get some feedback on what to include (I'm already going to clean up the file names of the photos etc. lets say organization isn't my biggest strength), to both make it as useful as possible to someone who wants to print a bracket, as well as save me the questions and inquiries by making the 'package" as comprehensive as possible. IE, photos of the slicer to give a quick indication of supports/no supports, brim, print orientation, photos of the actual printed part, even installed if I can with an accompanying instructions file that details slicer settings, as well as other items required, threaded inserts etc.

There are two parts in the download section as of today, the first is a Magnepan stand as an example of the bare minimum, which is the .STL only. The second part is the Kicker mounting bracket that attaches to the factory subwoofer enclosure. This is more comprehensive as I mentioned above. Why am I asking? Well I could get dozens of brackets and designs up instantly if it's just the .STL. If each item gets the full package it's going to take time, I'm happy to do this if it helps people print it and be successful vs having failed prints, but at the same time why do it if nobody is going to read it? I also need to make the Creative Commons designation for these designs. I'm sure a good portion of these would also fit the model Y as well. If anyone has first hand knowledge of what's compatible I'd be happy to include that information.

Tesla Model 3 designs to publish:
Kicker key 500.1 Mounting bracket for stock subwoofer enclosure
Kicker L7T8 adapter for a stock subwoofer enclosure
Alpine (generic 8 bolt) mounting pattern for stock subwoofer enclosure
Port plug for stock subwoofer enclosure
Infinity Ref 4032, and 3032 dash adapters
Faital 4FE32 Dash/rear door adapters
ScanSpeak 10F Dash/rear door adapters
Hertz ML700.3 Dash/rear door adapters
Hertz MPK165.3 Door woofer & tweeter adapters
Focal ISU200 Door woofer & tweeter adapters
Dayton SIG180 Door woofer adapters

If you have other speakers/subwoofers that fit the model 3 let me know, or if you need a bracket designed I might be able to help.
I also have a handful of speakers coming to me for some playing, some may or may not fit in the dash and might even sound good.
Wavecor WF090WA01
Dayton Audio DMA105-4
Peerless NE95W04

Moderators, if I'm somehow breaking a rule please let me know, it's definitely not intentional and I'll revise/take down this post.

 

[jjrandorin]

hopefully all of this allows me to stay within the rules of this forum and contribute to the community at the same time.

Moderators, if I'm somehow breaking a rule please let me know, it's definitely not intentional and I'll revise/take down this post.

(moderator note)

No, this is great, thanks for sharing with the community!

 

[RWAudio]

I've started working through the bracket uploads, there are a number of them available now at:
rwaudio.com/free-downloads

I've also been doing some speaker testing (outside the car for the moment as swapping dash speakers isn't exactly quick).

I'll include the subjective testing here in the future. Preliminary tests are very promising for the Wavecore WF090WA01 (which is fairly cheap at Solen.ca right now, I have no affiliation) I just need to test it against the Scan Speak 10F as that's the speaker I've been living with for many months in the car. The Peerless NE95W04 is pretty nice too for different reasons, and could suit people with different taste. I still have to verify it will fit the dash as it's a couple mm deeper than the Infinity Ref 4032 which barely fits. The Hertz ML700.3 reminds me of the Scan Speak, but I need to do a head-to-head comparison to see what those differences really are. I'm going to pick up a set of the Faital's as that's a pretty common upgrade and I'd like to see where they slot in. I also gave the stock speaker a comparison and with the tweeter disconnected the Infinity Ref 3032 is the closest and only provides a minor upgrade (at a similar price point right now, I'd go with the Wavecore mentioned above over any of the Infinity Ref speakers)

 

[VietxFire1]

This is pretty awesome. Thanks for uploading and detailing all your work. I'm interested in upgrading my subwoofer. How did you Kicker L7T8 upgrade compared to stock?

 

[RWAudio]

This is pretty awesome. Thanks for uploading and detailing all your work. I'm interested in upgrading my subwoofer. How did you Kicker L7T8 upgrade compared to stock?

I have a '23 RWD so I didn't have a stock subwoofer, though I did buy the enclosure with a sub I never actually tried the factory sub. However compared to a long range car the bass output of the factory sub/amp vs the kicker L7T8 with kicker amp the kickers absolutely blow away for the factory setup with respect to output, low extension etc. It's is not exactly apples to apples, so just upgrading the sub would give different results.

 

[VietxFire1]

I've started working through the bracket uploads, there are a number of them available now at:
rwaudio.com/free-downloads

I've also been doing some speaker testing (outside the car for the moment as swapping dash speakers isn't exactly quick).

I'll include the subjective testing here in the future. Preliminary tests are very promising for the Wavecore WF090WA01 (which is fairly cheap at Solen.ca right now, I have no affiliation) I just need to test it against the Scan Speak 10F as that's the speaker I've been living with for many months in the car. The Peerless NE95W04 is pretty nice too for different reasons, and could suit people with different taste. I still have to verify it will fit the dash as it's a couple mm deeper than the Infinity Ref 4032 which barely fits. The Hertz ML700.3 reminds me of the Scan Speak, but I need to do a head-to-head comparison to see what those differences really are. I'm going to pick up a set of the Faital's as that's a pretty common upgrade and I'd like to see where they slot in. I also gave the stock speaker a comparison and with the tweeter disconnected the Infinity Ref 3032 is the closest and only provides a minor upgrade (at a similar price point right now, I'd go with the Wavecore mentioned above over any of the Infinity Ref speakers)

I have a '23 RWD so I didn't have a stock subwoofer, though I did buy the enclosure with a sub I never actually tried the factory sub. However compared to a long range car the bass output of the factory sub/amp vs the kicker L7T8 with kicker amp the kickers absolutely blow away for the factory setup with respect to output, low extension etc. It's is not exactly apples to apples, so just upgrading the sub would give different results.

That makes sense now. I was wondering if you moved the stock amp to a different location. It's a very clean setup and still debating which route I want to go. Thanks again for your efforts and sharing it too.

 

[RWAudio]

That makes sense now. I was wondering if you moved the stock amp to a different location. It's a very clean setup and still debating which route I want to go. Thanks again for your efforts and sharing it too.

The RWD and older SR+ don't have the factory amp that's attached to the subwoofer enclosure. Our only amplifier is in the main MCU near the glove box. I'm not sure how practical it would be to move the factory amp in the rear as I'm not sure how much extra length there might be in the wiring harnesses. If anyone around Calgary AB has a Long Range/Performance and is looking to upgrade the subwoofer and add a dedicated subwoofer amp perhaps we can work through this together and give feedback to the community with designs for the required parts/brackets/connectors etc.

 

[SiW80]

What material do you suggest to print these in?

Great work

 

[RWAudio]

What material do you suggest to print these in?

Great work

Any of the Tesla parts should be printed in ABS.
(ASA or PETG as an alternate, but the files are "tuned" for ABS shrinkage on the Bambu X1C)

 

[Bobstina]

I found this thread and immediately ordered the adapter plate for the kicker 8 inch L7T and the amp rack. I was notified by email that RW Audio shipped them the next day. These things don’t fall into place, they click. They are the exact size, he has nutserts in them AND he sent bolts with both! It doesn’t get any better than this! I just wanted to thank you for all your hard work, trial and error, and dedication.

 

[RWAudio]

I found this thread and immediately ordered the adapter plate for the kicker 8 inch L7T and the amp rack. I was notified by email that RW Audio shipped them the next day. These things don’t fall into place, they click. They are the exact size, he has nutserts in them AND he sent bolts with both! It doesn’t get any better than this! I just wanted to thank you for all your hard work, trial and error, and dedication.

Thank you for noticing the effort that's put into making sure these are strong and fit correctly. Hopefully, things (tools) are common enough now that metric hardware isn't an issue. Enjoy the upgrade, I really like this combo.

 

[Panams16]

I've started to repurpose my website rwaudio.com to host the brackets and adapters etc that I've designed. Many of these are Tesla related, so I think they'd be useful for many members of this community. I have a day job at an EV related startup so I'm not looking to turn this into a business which is why I'd like to offer the .STL files for free with support/donation being completely optional. There is also no advertising on the website, so I'm not trying to attract traffic, hopefully all of this allows me to stay within the rules of this forum and contribute to the community at the same time.

The library will build over time, however I'd like to get some feedback on what to include (I'm already going to clean up the file names of the photos etc. lets say organization isn't my biggest strength), to both make it as useful as possible to someone who wants to print a bracket, as well as save me the questions and inquiries by making the 'package" as comprehensive as possible. IE, photos of the slicer to give a quick indication of supports/no supports, brim, print orientation, photos of the actual printed part, even installed if I can with an accompanying instructions file that details slicer settings, as well as other items required, threaded inserts etc.

There are two parts in the download section as of today, the first is a Magnepan stand as an example of the bare minimum, which is the .STL only. The second part is the Kicker mounting bracket that attaches to the factory subwoofer enclosure. This is more comprehensive as I mentioned above. Why am I asking? Well I could get dozens of brackets and designs up instantly if it's just the .STL. If each item gets the full package it's going to take time, I'm happy to do this if it helps people print it and be successful vs having failed prints, but at the same time why do it if nobody is going to read it? I also need to make the Creative Commons designation for these designs. I'm sure a good portion of these would also fit the model Y as well. If anyone has first hand knowledge of what's compatible I'd be happy to include that information.

Tesla Model 3 designs to publish:
Kicker key 500.1 Mounting bracket for stock subwoofer enclosure
Kicker L7T8 adapter for a stock subwoofer enclosure
Alpine (generic 8 bolt) mounting pattern for stock subwoofer enclosure
Port plug for stock subwoofer enclosure
Infinity Ref 4032, and 3032 dash adapters
Faital 4FE32 Dash/rear door adapters
ScanSpeak 10F Dash/rear door adapters
Hertz ML700.3 Dash/rear door adapters
Hertz MPK165.3 Door woofer & tweeter adapters
Focal ISU200 Door woofer & tweeter adapters
Dayton SIG180 Door woofer adapters

If you have other speakers/subwoofers that fit the model 3 let me know, or if you need a bracket designed I might be able to help.
I also have a handful of speakers coming to me for some playing, some may or may not fit in the dash and might even sound good.
Wavecor WF090WA01
Dayton Audio DMA105-4
Peerless NE95W04

Moderators, if I'm somehow breaking a rule please let me know, it's definitely not intentional and I'll revise/take down this post.

Hey man,

I’m trying to figure out if these will fit Machete MLH-80 | 8

Or these
Skar Audio FSX8-4 8" 350 Watt 4 Ohm Pro Audio Midrange Loudspeaker, Each https://a.co/d/g6YIm4o

Do you know if they will fit with these 8” brackets? Or I need to patent them somehow? It’s not too big of a magnet on the back but I’m concerned about the depth of the speaker being around 7.5 long.

Any ideas?

Really don’t want to spend a fortune on the Focals right now, as I am adding an amp and 12” sub on the back.

I got the 2023 Tesla model 3 RWD.

Thanks!

 

[RWAudio]

Hey man,

I’m trying to figure out if these will fit Machete MLH-80 | 8

Or these
Skar Audio FSX8-4 8" 350 Watt 4 Ohm Pro Audio Midrange Loudspeaker, Each https://a.co/d/g6YIm4o

Do you know if they will fit with these 8” brackets? Or I need to patent them somehow? It’s not too big of a magnet on the back but I’m concerned about the depth of the speaker being around 7.5 long.

Any ideas?

Really don’t want to spend a fortune on the Focals right now, as I am adding an amp and 12” sub on the back.

I got the 2023 Tesla model 3 RWD.

Thanks!

I haven't used either of these speakers, however Pro Audio 8's typically aren't the best choice for this application as they are typically optimized as midrange speakers with very little midbass extension.

When trying to see if something fits compare them to the Focal ISU200 (which barely fits) and the Dayton Audio Sig225-4 which DOES NOT FIT. With the depth being the main issue.

I would honestly look for a good quality 6 1/2" maybe 7" MIDBASS for the doors, (not midrange) and not necessarily an 8" as many good quality 8's are simply too big to fit. I like the Hertz MP165.3 over the Focal ISU200, but that's just my opinion.

I also have a '23 RWD, I enjoy the Kicker L7T8 in the stock enclosure powered by the Kicker Key 500.1. I already have significant resonance in the car that needs sound deadening. So if you are using a quality 12" sub with some power plan to put some effort (budget) into sound deadening.

 

[Panams16]

I haven't used either of these speakers, however Pro Audio 8's typically aren't the best choice for this application as they are typically optimized as midrange speakers with very little midbass extension.

When trying to see if something fits compare them to the Focal ISU200 (which barely fits) and the Dayton Audio Sig225-4 which DOES NOT FIT. With the depth being the main issue.

I would honestly look for a good quality 6 1/2" maybe 7" MIDBASS for the doors, (not midrange) and not necessarily an 8" as many good quality 8's are simply too big to fit. I like the Hertz MP165.3 over the Focal ISU200, but that's just my opinion.

I also have a '23 RWD, I enjoy the Kicker L7T8 in the stock enclosure powered by the Kicker Key 500.1. I already have significant resonance in the car that needs sound deadening. So if you are using a quality 12" sub with some power plan to put some effort (budget) into sound deadening.

Thanks for your reply!

I am going with a 12” Rockville, how did you figure out the 12v vs 16v? Did you buy a volt drop device?

 

[RWAudio]

Thanks for your reply!

I am going with a 12” Rockville, how did you figure out the 12v vs 16v? Did you buy a volt drop device?

I went with the kicker amp for two main reasons, and two bonus reasons:
1) it mentions a wide operating range up to 16v (this should have just been listed in the specs so it's easier to find)
2) high level input with automatic turn on, no need to try and find a switched ignition source to turn it on
Bonus:
1) It's small and powerful (without being so powerful I may run into low voltage issues in the car)
2) It has automatic DSP, which I haven't set up yet as you need to only run the sub, I haven't found an easy way to mute the rest of the audio shy of disconnecting all the other speakers.

 

[Panams16]

I went with the kicker amp for two main reasons, and two bonus reasons:
1) it mentions a wide operating range up to 16v (this should have just been listed in the specs so it's easier to find)
2) high level input with automatic turn on, no need to try and find a switched ignition source to turn it on
Bonus:
1) It's small and powerful (without being so powerful I may run into low voltage issues in the car)
2) It has automatic DSP, which I haven't set up yet as you need to only run the sub, I haven't found an easy way to mute the rest of the audio shy of disconnecting all the other speakers.

Nice I chose to purchase a Skar 500w mono block that supports up to 16v so I don’t have to mess with step down devices.

Now since I am adding a subwoofer with its box, from your point of view, you feel like we still need midbass speakers in the doors?

Meaning since the subwoofer will take over the bass load wouldn’t be ideal to as some midrange to increase the voice loudness?

Or it really needs to have midbass speakers on the doors too?

 

[RWAudio]

Nice I chose to purchase a Skar 500w mono block that supports up to 16v so I don’t have to mess with step down devices.

Now since I am adding a subwoofer with its box, from your point of view, you feel like we still need midbass speakers in the doors?

Meaning since the subwoofer will take over the bass load wouldn’t be ideal to as some midrange to increase the voice loudness?

Or it really needs to have midbass speakers on the doors too?

Everyone's taste is different, and those woofers seem quite inexpensive (if they fit) try it and let the community know your feedback. If you need help with adapters I'd be happy to tweak my generic 8" adapter if necessary.

I like strong midbass, so I wouldn't compromise on them in my car but there is no single right answer as to what people like. If that's the sound you are looking for don't let anyone stand in your way!

 

[Panams16]

Everyone's taste is different, and those woofers seem quite inexpensive (if they fit) try it and let the community know your feedback. If you need help with adapters I'd be happy to tweak my generic 8" adapter if necessary.

I like strong midbass, so I wouldn't compromise on them in my car but there is no single right answer as to what people like. If that's the sound you are looking for don't let anyone stand in your way!

Thank you for your recommendations!

I realized that the amp I ordered has no auto sense/on, do you know where I can tap the Remote wire? Or do I really need it? Since the 16v on the penthouse goes to sleep after some time the vehicle is off?

 

[RWAudio]

Thank you for your recommendations!

I realized that the amp I ordered has no auto sense/on, do you know where I can tap the Remote wire? Or do I really need it? Since the 16v on the penthouse goes to sleep after some time the vehicle is off?

I would try something like this:

Kicker 46KISLOC2

K Series 2-channel line output converter with 12-volt turn-on lead

www.crutchfield.com

 

[canasion35]

This thread is S-Tier…saving this when I decide to switch up the stock system. That L7 combo with amp is so well thought out!!!!