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Free downloads for .STL speaker brackets etc for 3D printing

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Ah, okay, for sizing purposes makes sense. I wonder if there were some way I could perform some maximum power measurements on my stock premium sub with the goal of you being able to adjust the gain down on your 500.1 so you could gain insight as to what drivers you believe would be efficient enough. I'll give this some thought, but please let me know if you have any ideas !
The power rating of the stock woofer is 80w + 80W, I was going to target something like that with the Kicker amp. It's rated 150w at 4 ohms, so definitely not ideal I could just run one coil to get an idea of the sub level around that power level.
 
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Thank you very much @RWAudio for sharing all of this!
I am considering getting the Mosconi Gladen Pico 1 and hope it would be a good match with the Kicker woofer.
Do you know how many litres the subwoofer enclosure is? I believe it's the same for 2023 Y and 3? Ideally both volume and port should be tuned to the driver
Picture from my 23 YP.
 

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Thank you very much @RWAudio for sharing all of this!
I am considering getting the Mosconi Gladen Pico 1 and hope it would be a good match with the Kicker woofer.
Do you know how many litres the subwoofer enclosure is? I believe it's the same for 2023 Y and 3? Ideally both volume and port should be tuned to the driver
Picture from my 23 YP.
Correction: I see now that our boxes are not the same...
 
Correction: I see now that our boxes are not the same...
I suspect the volume and tuning of both enclosures would be similar as they seem to use the same subwoofer driver just in an enclosure tailored to the shape of each car.

I have some info in another thread: Model 3 factory subwoofer enclosure, volume, port tuning, adapters etc

Here's a snippet.
This is specific to the 1079747-99-B factory subwoofer enclosure, but other versions are likely very close.
Internal volume 0.76 cubic feet (21.5L), port diameter 2.36" (60mm) port length 7.2" (183mm) (typically measured to the middle of the radiused portion) this reverse calculates to about 42Hz tuning frequency.
 
My thinking as well, thank you!

I see that you are happy with the Kicker woofer. Have you checked regarding the volume and port of this? Or are there perhaps even better ones..? May I ask for a link to the driver you have? I found many different square ones.

The Mosconi Pico amp is on it's way now 😁. Think it's a good deal for 212€🧐
 
Coming soon :)
It should work with my existing bracket for the Kicker Key 500.1. I understand the Kicker amp/sub is a bit expensive, so I've also ordered the Skar 500w class D and I'll design a bracket for it too. This should give people an alternative at roughly half the cost of the Kickers. I'll provide subjective feedback on how it sounds once I install it. This bracket will be available in the free downloads once I verify it fits. I also have a stock Tesla amp on order so I can test-fit subwoofers for those with the premium system who just want to replace the subwoofer. I went with the Dual 4 ohm coil (D4) instead of the D2, in hopes of helping someone with a factory premium system upgrade their sub. Also, the Skar amp is rated 380W at 2 ohms, and 500W at 1 ohm, so it's right around the desired power level at 2ohms (or dual 4 ohm coils in parallel).

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I was just looking at that exact sub as an easy swap to my OEM sub. Hard to beat the price. I wish I knew if there would be a discernible difference without an amp upgrade (at least until I do decide to upgrade the amp)
 
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Ah, okay, for sizing purposes makes sense. I wonder if there were some way I could perform some maximum power measurements on my stock premium sub with the goal of you being able to adjust the gain down on your 500.1 so you could gain insight as to what drivers you believe would be efficient enough. I'll give this some thought, but please let me know if you have any ideas !
I have some testing to do, I'll see what I can come up with.
 
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I have some testing to do, I'll see what I can come up with.
Awesome! I went ahead and ordered it last night, under $70 total, probably get it installed this weekend and see what happens. I figured I can always add an amp down the road if I'm unsatisfied. I'm planning to put some sound deadening behind the woofer area.

I keep reminding myself that this is the best system I've personally had in a car, however I'm always open to improvement. I would like to see a bit more range out of the sub (I feel that OEM is a little one-note). Still need to install my dash and door speakers sometime. The only car I've been in which sounded a bit better was my wife's previous Lexus RX with Mark Levinson, though she enjoys the system in her Y just as much.
 
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Awesome! I went ahead and ordered it last night, under $70 total, probably get it installed this weekend and see what happens. I figured I can always add an amp down the road if I'm unsatisfied. I'm planning to put some sound deadening behind the woofer area.

I keep reminding myself that this is the best system I've personally had in a car, however I'm always open to improvement. I would like to see a bit more range out of the sub (I feel that OEM is a little one-note). Still need to install my dash and door speakers sometime. The only car I've been in which sounded a bit better was my wife's previous Lexus RX with Mark Levinson, though she enjoys the system in her Y just as much.
Awesome, let me know how it works out. I'm looking at some of the cheaper options out there so there's a more diverse range of upgrade paths depending on the needs and desires of each person.
 
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Awesome, let me know how it works out. I'm looking at some of the cheaper options out there so there's a more diverse range of upgrade paths depending on the needs and desires of each person.
I'm still planning on rolling with the Skar, but I did come across a very good deal on a Sundown SD4 8" D4. It's a shallow mount Neo magnet sub. I'm not super familiar with sub specs, but I was curious if that unit would be more or less efficient with the OEM amp compared to something lower end like the Skar or Kicker CompR. I did notice that the Sundown has slightly less sensitivity (1-2 DBs), unsure how much that would matter. The Sundown is rated at 400W RMS vs the Skar's 350W RMS (though obviously neither would be getting nearly that much power)
 
I'm still planning on rolling with the Skar, but I did come across a very good deal on a Sundown SD4 8" D4. It's a shallow mount Neo magnet sub. I'm not super familiar with sub specs, but I was curious if that unit would be more or less efficient with the OEM amp compared to something lower end like the Skar or Kicker CompR. I did notice that the Sundown has slightly less sensitivity (1-2 DBs), unsure how much that would matter. The Sundown is rated at 400W RMS vs the Skar's 350W RMS (though obviously neither would be getting nearly that much power)
The main thing you are looking for if using the factory enclosure is that the sub will work in 0.75 cuft ported, tuned to 42hz. Or if you plug the port it will work in 0.75 cuft sealed. The SD4, is sealed only and the largest recommended size is 0.5 cuft, given the lower power level this sub "might" work reasonably well in the larger box, but it's hard to say what it will sound like.
 
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The main thing you are looking for if using the factory enclosure is that the sub will work in 0.75 cuft ported, tuned to 42hz. Or if you plug the port it will work in 0.75 cuft sealed. The SD4, is sealed only and the largest recommended size is 0.5 cuft, given the lower power level this sub "might" work reasonably well in the larger box, but it's hard to say what it will sound like.
Great info! In that case, the Skar looks a much better fit in this specific application
 
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Coming soon :)
It should work with my existing bracket for the Kicker Key 500.1. I understand the Kicker amp/sub is a bit expensive, so I've also ordered the Skar 500w class D and I'll design a bracket for it too. This should give people an alternative at roughly half the cost of the Kickers. I'll provide subjective feedback on how it sounds once I install it. This bracket will be available in the free downloads once I verify it fits. I also have a stock Tesla amp on order so I can test-fit subwoofers for those with the premium system who just want to replace the subwoofer. I went with the Dual 4 ohm coil (D4) instead of the D2, in hopes of helping someone with a factory premium system upgrade their sub. Also, the Skar amp is rated 380W at 2 ohms, and 500W at 1 ohm, so it's right around the desired power level at 2ohms (or dual 4 ohm coils in parallel).

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I'd be very interested if you'd ever be able to end up creating an amp bracket and harness for those wanting to add a dedicated sub amp but already have premium audio
 
I'd be very interested if you'd ever be able to end up creating an amp bracket and harness for those wanting to add a dedicated sub amp but already have premium audio
I'll dig deeper into this, you already have sub signals at the back which could easily run an aftermarket amp. I have a stock amp now, so I'll pull my sub enclosure and see where I could put an aftermarket amp while keeping the stock amp.
 
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I'll dig deeper into this, you already have sub signals at the back which could easily run an aftermarket amp. I have a stock amp now, so I'll pull my sub enclosure and see where I could put an aftermarket amp while keeping the stock amp.
Thank you! I'm sure I'm going to end up wanting to add a dedicated amp to the Skar so that's what I ask. I just don't want to make it overly complicated if possible.

Check out the Orella Acoustics kit, they mount their amp under the OEM sub/amp bracket.
 
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Interesting, there's quite a bit of room down there.
There was in my car too… until I filled that space with a 500Wh LiFePhO4 pack to bolster the existing AGM battery and serviced as a “buffer” to run my 1000W sine wave inverter for all my car camping cooking needs, without throwing codes 😜

I used to run it direct from the battery, but Tesla released some “counter measures” to detect and prevent people from using the aftermarket OHMU full-Lithium 12V battery replacements that were becoming popular as people tired of replacing the “consumable” AGM.

I was upset at first, but now that I’ve implemented it, the car can probably sleep for weeks at a time before it fires up the big 2500 DC to DC converter to recharge the 12V battery. Before this, it would wake up about every 8-20hrs to charge it. I suspect the new AGM I put in at the same time will likely last 5 to 10 years now instead of 3yrs like clock work previously. Plus, I like the confidence knowing that the vehicle cabling between the AGM and the DC to DC converter will never be overloaded. I always was a little worried that I might be running it over it’s design ampacity and would hate to melt it somewhere inside the vehicle 😬

@tyler_k1 We’re really looking forward to your report on how the scar sounds replacing the stock sub for driver in the premium system ! Please report back as soon as you have news ! You also might consider downloading one of the RTA audio apps on your phone for before after comparison. If you do, you can probably just manually set all the non-sub sliders to minimal, the sub-slider to max, as this will help focus the RTA captures on the Sub and deprioritize the rest of the system (which hasn’t changed).