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Happy to help, let me know what I can do.I think what you’re doing is awesome. Thanks!
I’d gladly pay for an STL that contains a valentine1 remote display set at a decent angle and attached at the base of the center screen (model 3/y), clearing an early center console lid.
Yes, i just chose to go with an Alpine amp 500w that another guy had connected to a 2023 With no issues. Also i was so dumb when i was asking you about the door woofers, for some reason i was so confused that they were somehow woofer/speaker combo, but they are there only to produce the bass, so my next question is, can we add a 2ohm or 4ohm woofers instead of the 8ohm stock woofers on the doors?I would try something like this:
Kicker 46KISLOC2
K Series 2-channel line output converter with 12-volt turn-on leadwww.crutchfield.com
This would be great info! I have the dual 2 ohm version of this woofer, so it probably wouldn't be safe to run on the factory amp. But if anyone in the Calgary AB area with premium audio wants to install the dual 4 ohm version of the L7T8 I'll give you a discount on the adapter bracket, I have the Mic set up to take a before/after measurement using REW.Has anyone done looked at the before/after RTA of swapping the stock subwoofer with the L7T8 and RWAudio's adapter plate while still using the stock Tesla premium sound amp ?
The factory door woofers are 4 ohm, I would stick to 4 ohm. The dash/rear door/deck speakers are 3 ohm.Yes, i just chose to go with an Alpine amp 500w that another guy had connected to a 2023 With no issues. Also i was so dumb when i was asking you about the door woofers, for some reason i was so confused that they were somehow woofer/speaker combo, but they are there only to produce the bass, so my next question is, can we add a 2ohm or 4ohm woofers instead of the 8ohm stock woofers on the doors?
I finally found some that might just work perfect for what i want them and the budget.
Higher wattage but i know if we drop ohms we might be able to achieve something a bit higher on power.
I'm looking at those Scars as well. Was it the depth that makes it tight, when you say the Focals barely fit? Here are the measurements I found:I haven't used either of these speakers, however Pro Audio 8's typically aren't the best choice for this application as they are typically optimized as midrange speakers with very little midbass extension.
When trying to see if something fits compare them to the Focal ISU200 (which barely fits) and the Dayton Audio Sig225-4 which DOES NOT FIT. With the depth being the main issue.
I would honestly look for a good quality 6 1/2" maybe 7" MIDBASS for the doors, (not midrange) and not necessarily an 8" as many good quality 8's are simply too big to fit. I like the Hertz MP165.3 over the Focal ISU200, but that's just my opinion.
I also have a '23 RWD, I enjoy the Kicker L7T8 in the stock enclosure powered by the Kicker Key 500.1. I already have significant resonance in the car that needs sound deadening. So if you are using a quality 12" sub with some power plan to put some effort (budget) into sound deadening.
The focal barely fits based on diameter, I used the factory woofer as a reference for how far from the door it's mounted, I haven't measured where the window sits to get a maximum depth, but I do have some Dayton SIG180-4s to try in the doors, so I'll try and get some measurements while I'm in there.I'm looking at those Scars as well. Was it the depth that makes it tight, when you say the Focals barely fit? Here are the measurements I found:
Mounting Depth:
Focal ISU200: 63.5mm
Dayton Sig225: 101.5mm, no wonder it does not fit
Skar FX8: 77mm
So those Skars need an additional 14mm depth clearance. The magnet is also 30mm wider than the Focals. Would you guess these would fit with the brackets you designed? If not, is there room between the speakers and the grill in the door panel that I could modify your STL to bring them out a bit?
I'm not down to spend the funds on those Focals, and I'd prefer not to go down to 6.5". I'll have a sub in the trunk, so I'd like to keep that cutoff fairly low and be able to handoff the midbass to the doors. I'm concerned depending on the sub for midbass will be hampered by the rear seats and deck. My last car had 6.5" in the doors and I always wanted something to better handle bidbass below 100hz.
I might just give it a shot, and if they don't work maybe I can put them in the rear deck and get my midbass from there.
Awesome, what type of sub/amp are you using?Subscribed. Looking to order some door and front brackets. Focal and faital. First step is installing my Sub box
Can't wait for some pics!JL 13TW5v2 in a wedge box and JL JD500/1.
Just got the y last week and ordered a bunch of various sound deading, felt, foam.
Today I worked on the front trunk area to eliminate the plastic rattles and was surprised it made such a difference.
Sadly I haven't heard the Faitals yet, Parts express is the only vendor it seems and their shipping to Canada was quite expensive last time I checked.Debating Scan Speak Discovery 10F vs the faital pro 4fe32. Any input would be appreciated. 10f are double the price
I have the stock amp on order for size purposes only (it appears to be from a flooded car). I already have a Kicker 500w amp installed for testing different subwoofers. As a non premium car I couldn't hook up the stock amp anyway, none of the wiring is there. My goal is to advise people what fits, and how things sound. I did get the dual 4 ohm Skar in hopes that I can install it for someone with a premium system and do a back to back comparison with the stock sub to see if it's worth upgrading or not.Exciting !!! I'm super curious about possible stock premium ss subwoofer upgrade, and yes, was hesitant to just roll the dice on a $200 sub that might be no better with the stock amp than the original so that's awesome you have the stock amp coming. My only concern is that according to this post they weren't able to get the factory sub to function in their non-premium vehicle. Do you have some new secret sauce ?