Frustrated finding wheel bearing part (1027170-00-a)

[morrisdl]

I Called 3 Tesla Parts departments and left over a dozen voicemails asking for a call back (included part number, vin, and phone number) and ZERO call backs. Frustrated, I ordered one on ebay, correct part number but it has the wrong spline shaft diameter.

The only way I could get through to a Tesla human was to wait 30 min on the "schedule-an-appointment" phone menu option. They have one in stock, but the price is now $100 more @$238 than I paid in March ($130). I am at 70k miles and replaced two. Anyone have tips for procuring the next two?

 

[David.85D]

There seems to be local variation in pricing. Try calling other service centers before concluding the price really has changed.

Always wondered if this was true regional variation or some people get the “brother-in-law price” and some don’t...

$238 for an integrated sealed wheel bearing and hub from the dealer isn’t that crazy. Is that what you are pricing? Does Tesla sell the bearing alone?

 

[morrisdl]

YES - complete integrated hub. Tesla S bearings @ $130 was a good deal, $230 is a bit high. My Land rover and Cayenne wheel bearings cost between: $120-180 in the past. I would agree about shopping around, but it took 13 phone calls and 30+ minutes on hold for me to get this one!

 

[David.85D]

Sorry. Parts are a pita. I have some simple parts backordered since April. I just stop at the service center. The phone got me nowhere.

I know BMW pricing a little, and that doesn’t surprise me. Typical 7-series sealed BMW wheel bearing (31226750217) is $300, you might find it online for $250. Buying the OE FAG part aftermarket is around $140 and the scary cheap ones are $40ish.

I see it as a reminder we need aftermarket access to OE parts (or performance upgraded parts)...

 

[nixnexus]

Anyone have wheel studs from an old hub they no longer need? My hub is good, but I sheered off a stud with a torque wrench trying to get up to the 129ft/lb mark.

 

[David.85D]

I don’t, but I’m curious what went wrong? Did you figure out why it failed?

 

[nixnexus]

Not entirely sure, only thing i can think of is my model s has 103k miles.

With the high torque requirement, im surprised it hasn’t occurred sooner.

 

[David.85D]

Just in case you don’t know, the torque spec is for unlubricated threads. If you grease the lug nuts, you can end up with much more tension in the stud at torque spec, or may even break the stud before reaching torque spec.

RockAuto listed the wheel hubs then changed it to out of stock. Might be worth a phone call. If they know the manufacturer they might be able to figure out the correct stud that fits

 

[morrisdl]

FYI the new version of the rear wheel bearing assembly has a very slightly different inset. Presumably this is within tolerances of the CV, but I needed to replace both left and right to get the thrust angle alignment true.

 

[TonyT]

Anyone have wheel studs from an old hub they no longer need? My hub is good, but I sheered off a stud with a torque wrench trying to get up to the 129ft/lb mark.

Are the studs different? In past cars I've replaced studs with replacements from the auto shop.

 

[nixnexus]

I just replaced the wheel studs this weekend. @David.85D I've never lubed wheel studs before, so that can't be the issue.

Anyhow, I used the closest part from Dorman with the same dimensions as the original stud: Dorman 610-490 (everything matches except it's slightly longer)

Bought a 10 pack, did the entire rear axle.

I was able to avoid removing the wheel hub.

Removed e-brake caliper and brake caliper. Removed brake disc. Removed screws for brake splash shield to free it.

I used a 2" tie rod tool to remove old studs, removed screws for splash shield for the brakes (unable to remove without taking off wheel hub, but you need to loosen it so that you can angle in the new studs). Used 1" tie rod tool to press new studs in, and re-lubed brakes.

Pretty easy if you have the right tools.

 

[TonyT]

Good to know, wish there was a database of replacement parts. Tesla cars are fantastic. Getting parts is a whole different story.

 

[David.85D]

Thanks for posting the Dorman part number. A little long shouldn’t hurt with lugnuts.

 

[nixnexus]

Update - I removed the 610-490 studs and installed the 610-434 instead. Much better now that I don't have to use the open-ended lug nuts.

 

[tyler2323]

Update - I removed the 610-490 studs and installed the 610-434 instead. Much better now that I don't have to use the open-ended lug nuts.

I have never used open ended lug nuts and I’m surprised those fit just shorter huh? I’m usually using adapters or spacers and I run 10 inch front and 11 inch rears too with my AG SR10’s
You made it way difficult for yourself. You just need to remove the the the brake caliper with only two screws. Than set it on the ground. As you go to remove one stud just feel behind the hub until you feel the back of one and you will see where you can just smack them rt out put one in you than turn the hub to make the others come out or go in without removing all the stuff you did, takes 10-20min. Just have the wheel turned all the way to one side as you remove the caliper from behind and try not to get the gun stuck against the wheel well and still have more to loosen to remove the screw. As you remove and put them on you will find tThe area whee it won’t be obstructing it coming off and on. Than you rotate the hub to the same spot for the rest. Put your hand in thru the back and you will see where you can access them. You want an impact gun when you install them. tighten the lug nut with the tool in front of it. You will be able to tell they are flush by felling it from the back, by seeing if they all look the same length and by trying to put a spacer or adapter on as it will not fit until they are installed flush which is literally a minute with the gun and tool. Used other tools in the past and the bearings have broke with too much torque and damn near took my eye off

You just need this lisle tool and impact wrench and you finish each one in a few minutes. And yes you are correct I don’t care how many miles you have they will strip lug nuts often too. And the torque is way high. The ppl I think mess them up the most are Tire shops. Whenever I remove and install rims regardless of spacers or adapters being used I only use a large wrench with extra long as some of the rims I have are deepdish or step up lip, never use the impact gun. When I remove them I do. Anytime I get new tires the lugs or studs have been damaged a little . By that I mean I cannot hand tighten them without some resistance which will lead to issues eventually. If I change my rims ( I do not mount or perform any kind of tire installation but if it’s a friends shop I will definitely peek in and go look at my lugs). I don’t even put lugs on that don’t spin on the studs with any resistance now.
Just buy new ones before one gets stuck deep inside and you have to torch it off lol

 

[rb951]

Update - I removed the 610-490 studs and installed the 610-434 instead. Much better now that I don't have to use the open-ended lug nuts.

Hi nixnexus. How are the 610-434 studs holding up for you? What is the difference in length compared to the original studs? Also can you please send a picture of the 2" tie rod tool you used. Need to make sure I have the right one. Thanks in advance!