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Gen3 Door Handle Paddle replacement

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Hi.

I took my door apart, expecting to easily replace the paddle when the door refused to open (2017 MS 100d). But once inside, I found that it's a newer version. This generally seems good, as there are certainly less moving parts, but I can't find a video of how to get the hall effect sensor off so I can replace the paddle. Does anyone know of a video on disassembling a gen 3 door handle? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 
i just did this tonight. assume you figured it out already or bought a new assembly (its been a month since you posted).
=> twist collar ring / compression ring downward to unlock (opposite of the printed arrow), then move collar ring to the right off the hall sensor, then remove hall sensor by sliding it off the guide rod. use a sharpie to mark the original location of the collar / sensor before unlocking the collar ring. the collar has a thread lock at 12 o clock and 6 of clock locations (hence to disengage the lock you twist to the unlock position). making a mark help reinstall due to it being position specific).

suspect gen3 assembly (front) are not suppose to be serviceable. the parts catalog shows the paddle gear but not a part number for it (on the front). however the parts catalog shows the part number for the rear assembly, meaning that one is serviceable. based on the amount of time spent on this, I understand why its easier to just by a new assembly, at least the front ones.
 
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Hi.

I took my door apart, expecting to easily replace the paddle when the door refused to open (2017 MS 100d). But once inside, I found that it's a newer version. This generally seems good, as there are certainly less moving parts, but I can't find a video of how to get the hall effect sensor off so I can replace the paddle. Does anyone know of a video on disassembling a gen 3 door handle? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
Silly question. Are you using the extended door handle to push the door closed? I’m just wondering why some break and some don’t. I’m surprised a gen3 broke.
 
Can't speak for the op,. For me the handle retracted while my hand was still there and closed on me. It broke from not being able to be flush closed. The handle was extended due to an unlock, I got busy for 20sec and the returned to the handle while it was still extended (prior to retracting), pull backed on the handle to engage to door release and then it retracted at the same time, fingers were unable to clear. fingers were able to clear when the gear broke (good in a sense) but now it was broken.
 
Can't speak for the op,. For me the handle retracted while my hand was still there and closed on me. It broke from not being able to be flush closed. The handle was extended due to an unlock, I got busy for 20sec and the returned to the handle while it was still extended (prior to retracting), pull backed on the handle to engage to door release and then it retracted at the same time, fingers were unable to clear. fingers were able to clear when the gear broke (good in a sense) but now it was broken.
That's odd... because the handle is pushed out by a motor, but pulled in by a spring. Unless the design changed.

Easy way to show it is fold a piece of paper to make a strip. Put it through the door handle. Let the handle close. Then you can pull out the handle with the paper and feel the spring tension.

My kids were scared by it, so I had them hold the handle once when it closed and they found it was no problem.
 
Understood, gen3 is prob must better than prev iteration but it still shares the same wearable cast metal gear (same part number as older cars Revision B) which is prone to breakage at the same stress point. I'm in no way saying this is a common thing,, handle prob closed on me over 10 times in it's life however this time it broke, prob stress break. If this was the weak link, the answer is not a redesign using the same weak link part, maybe redisign + different improved parts.
 
Understood, gen3 is prob must better than prev iteration but it still shares the same wearable cast metal gear (same part number as older cars Revision B) which is prone to breakage at the same stress point. I'm in no way saying this is a common thing,, handle prob closed on me over 10 times in it's life however this time it broke, prob stress break. If this was the weak link, the answer is not a redesign using the same weak link part, maybe redisign + different improved parts.
My speculation (and it really is just a wild guess) is needs a more solid lock holding the latch out. Like you said, the lever gets a stress fracture but my speculation is the stress is pushing the door closed via the handle. In that case, with the current design, it looks like it’s the motor (through the lever/paddle) taking the force from the handle.
 
Can't speak for the op,. For me the handle retracted while my hand was still there and closed on me. It broke from not being able to be flush closed. The handle was extended due to an unlock, I got busy for 20sec and the returned to the handle while it was still extended (prior to retracting), pull backed on the handle to engage to door release and then it retracted at the same time, fingers were unable to clear. fingers were able to clear when the gear broke (good in a sense) but now it was broken.
For me, it did seem random. Nothing happened that would explain it specifically. My rear door now also having the same problem and it is rarely used.

If you want a guess, living in a cold climate makes it worse. It is likely more fragile when cold and if the handle is frozen over with snow or ice, the problem is worse still. Nothing likes -35 C.

One positive thing I found with the gen3 is that you can push it like a MX and the door will open if you pull it at the same time. So living without it is pretty easy as long as the door isn’t frozen shut in the winter.