Door handle paddle sensor switch issues

[ChooseFreedom]

Does anyone know what the proper setup is for the paddle sensor switch in a gen 2.0 door handle assembly?

I recently had a broken paddle gear, so I swapped it out, but when the handle presents, the metal piece from the paddle switch sensor is slipping off the top of the paddle, so when the handle recesses the sensor isn't picking up that it's closed and it won't present again. It's like the paddle is too short.

I tried to adjust the switch so it stays on the paddle, but now the motor doesn't even try to present the handle.
My assumption was that when handle is presented, the switch metal piece on the paddle is not in contact with the switch sensor, and when the handle is recessed, the metal piece touches the sensor.
But no matter what I try, I can't get it to work more than once. And I've done my best to eliminate the possibility that the switch is bad, because it will work occasionally, just not consistently.

Does anyone know how to calibrate that sensor switch?
I read if you change versions of the whole door handle assembly, an update has to be done, that only Tesla can do. So you either take it to a SC, or just wait for the next OTA update. But I don't think my case would fall under that, as I'm not changing versions. I simply replaced a paddle gear.

 

[livesmith]

Did you replace the switch harness? That seems to be a pretty common fail point as well...

 

[ChooseFreedom]

Did you replace the switch harness? That seems to be a pretty common fail point as well...

No. It was a simple paddle replacement.
I've done one before, and that one went fine without a hitch.
This one had the slippage of the sensor arm, and I can't figure it out.
It's not the common switch fails on either side of the handle, and no kit I've found includes the paddle switch sensor. But like I said, I think the sensor switch is still working fine. It's the physical way it's not lining up with the top of the paddle that I think is the problem.

It's the right rear door. I don't use it that much.
Before my repair attempt, when I unlocked all doors, I could hear the motor repeatedly trying to move the paddle. It got annoying. So at least now, there's no noise.
I don't want to drop hundreds on a V3 handle assembly, so I may just wait until I have something else to fix.

Was just hoping someone here may have had this happen to them and had a possible remedy.

 

[Gtech]

No. It was a simple paddle replacement.
I've done one before, and that one went fine without a hitch.
This one had the slippage of the sensor arm, and I can't figure it out.
It's not the common switch fails on either side of the handle, and no kit I've found includes the paddle switch sensor. But like I said, I think the sensor switch is still working fine. It's the physical way it's not lining up with the top of the paddle that I think is the problem.

It's the right rear door. I don't use it that much.
Before my repair attempt, when I unlocked all doors, I could hear the motor repeatedly trying to move the paddle. It got annoying. So at least now, there's no noise.
I don't want to drop hundreds on a V3 handle assembly, so I may just wait until I have something else to fix.

Was just hoping someone here may have had this happen to them and had a possible remedy.

Did you used a OEM paddle gear?
Did you compared both paddle gears before installing? Is the new one shorter?
Did you switched the plastic rings inside the Paddle gear over to the new one?
Could the metal bracket from microswitch bent a little by the broken paddle gear?

 

[ChooseFreedom]

Did you used a OEM paddle gear?
Did you compared both paddle gears before installing? Is the new one shorter?
Did you switched the plastic rings inside the Paddle gear over to the new one?
Could the metal bracket from microswitch bent a little by the broken paddle gear?

- Aftermarket paddle gear.
- Didn't measure, but looked the same length.
-The OE rings didn't fit the new paddle.
-The metal arm from the switch seemed to have a bit of side-to-side play that was making it easier to slip off the paddle.
But it wasn't "loose" per se. From what I can tell, it's still functioning properly. But I don't have anything to compare it to without removing one of my other handles.
When I repaired another handle last year, I didn't have any issue with this paddle sensor.

 

[KalJoMoS]

I think the sensor bracket can be slightly off. See my photo, you might need to adjust it to have better contact with the gear. This is the only suggestion I can see to try…

 

[NewbyMaybe]

If its not a new micro switch then the wire is in the process of breaking. Try a continuity test while moving the wire back and forth.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Sometimes the metal tab that sticks out of the switch will need to be bent a little to operated properly.

 

[ChooseFreedom]

I think the sensor bracket can be slightly off. See my photo, you might need to adjust it to have better contact with the gear. This is the only suggestion I can see to try…

View attachment 1022987

Yeah, I did that. Removed the switch, and bent the bracket to adjust it.
I just don't know the exact setup the switch needs.

 

[ChooseFreedom]

If its not a new micro switch then the wire is in the process of breaking. Try a continuity test while moving the wire back and forth.

Guess that's possible.
Unfortunately, you can't buy just that switch w/wires.

 

[KalJoMoS]

Actually you can, it’s Long Stroke and Sliding Contact Construction Sealed Switches by Panasonic, see attached file. I belive that switch is Simulated leaf lever type, probably with wires to the right ASQ10228 or with wires to the left ASQ10328. Can’t be 100% sure. I have seen them on retailers as Mouser or Farnell…

 

[ChooseFreedom]

Actually you can, it’s Long Stroke and Sliding Contact Construction Sealed Switches by Panasonic, see attached file. I belive that switch is Simulated leaf lever type, probably with wires to the right ASQ10228 or with wires to the left ASQ10328. Can’t be 100% sure. I have seen them on retailers as Mouser or Farnell…

Thanks
I didn't pay attention when I was working on it. Do the other end of the wires from the switch have a connector? Or do they just go directly into the controller?

Looks like Mouser has a 200 pc min order. And Farnell is backordered. Maybe I don't know how to read the specs, but I don't see any reference to wires, so those may be just the switch. I'm not skilled enough to do the wiring manually.

 

[KalJoMoS]

First things first, yes the wires will go directly into the controller (see photo). So they are plain wires (see second photo). On the document you will see that section (described in previous post) for the switch and you select the one that is suitable for your handle - like which side the fixture/which side wires etc. That sensor part number will then line up with the corresponding numeric value in the empty boxes on the main page of the document. I managed to get 10 pc but it was backorder as well. Perhaps in States there are additional retailer’s as well, IDK.
These part numbers are my assumption, so can’t say they are the ones for that section of the handle. If you are certain that the OEM switch is bad then remove the black grommet and get the understanding what type the switch is. Haven’t yet had time to compare it on mine, we still have freezing weather here…

 

[KalJoMoS]

Here is this in picture as well, with several other types marked. As mentioned before I can’t be sure this is the right one for your handle. You need to check if the contact form is the right one for you.

 

[ChooseFreedom]

I wouldn't even want to begin trying to replace the wires that are glued into the controller.
I'm still not convinced that switch is the problem.
I'll just have to live with it until it becomes an annoyance worth paying mobile to fix.

I do appreciate your info and research.