Group Buy for Power Trunk/Frunk Liftgate!

[Skione65]

Yes, it shows rear trunk always closed after the installing the kit.
Hansshow foot sensor is only about 3 inch wide unlike modern 20 - 30 inch OEM vehicle’s.
You need kick the specific spot where the sensor installed. It is a little harder than OEM vehicle’s sensor.
The bumper has to removed and the sensor cables(3 wires) need to be soldered to existing Hanssow positive power wire and two light wires.
It is really up to personal preference.

@not4antoher,

Did you install the foot sensor on the inner bumper via Double sided tape or actually screw it to the bumper as the horrible directions specify? That’s ALL the directions say....doesn’t say anything about the wiring or how to connect any of it but I can surmise based on just looking at the connections on the wiring.

Ski

 

[woodisgood]

What became immediately apparent to my wife and I is that the frunk, which we considered pretty useless, is now so easy to use that it is our go-to storage place now. Easy open and close makes this a good purchase for us.

I like what you're saying here. Makes me think I'll add the frunk kit later, especially if there's a Black Friday or other sale around the holidays.

 

[not4antoher]

@not4antoher,

Did you install the foot sensor on the inner bumper via Double sided tape or actually screw it to the bumper as the horrible directions specify? That’s ALL the directions say....doesn’t say anything about the wiring or how to connect any of it but I can surmise based on just looking at the connections on the wiring.

Ski

I attached inside of the bumper with double side tape.

 

[insaneoctane]

Question for folks with the frunk kits....
Sometimes when I'm putting a lot of stuff in my frunk, I'm not 100% sure it will fit without loading /flexing the hood (which is bad). So in those uncertain times I lower the hood very slowly to ensure there is not contact with my cargo before I cinch the hood closed. Does this kit allow you to do something like this? Or does it just close and cinch and cross your fingers that you don't load / flex the hood doing it? Thanks

 

[not4antoher]

Installed the frunk opener today. It wasn’t difficult, but the online directions are for sh*$. I used Frugal Tesla Guy’s step-by-step video and made it through okay. I wrapped a lot more of the wires than they did and I used a lot of my own zip ties to make everything look nice and neat.

After I got the settings the way I wanted I removed the buzzer. I don’t need another noisemaker.

My driver side hood sat high, and the passenger side sat low after installation. I don’t see why this would be the case unless the struts weren’t identical. No amount of adjustment to the cable tension or hood posts or the entire latch box would completely eliminate this. So I put a sticky-backed 1” diameter felt chair leg floor protector on the left-side landing post, under the frunk tub. This actually solved the problem and evened out the hood alignment.

What became immediately apparent to my wife and I is that the frunk, which we considered pretty useless, is now so easy to use that it is our go-to storage place now. Easy open and close makes this a good purchase for us.

I had the same hood alignment problem after installing the kit. Since I own a collision repair shop, one of my body tech was able to align the hood by adjusting hinges and the latch.

 

[rdwlf]

Yes, it shows rear trunk always closed after the installing the kit.
Hansshow foot sensor is only about 3 inch wide unlike modern 20 - 30 inch OEM vehicle’s.
You need kick the specific spot where the sensor installed. It is a little harder than OEM vehicle’s sensor.
The bumper has to removed and the sensor cables(3 wires) need to be soldered to existing Hanssow positive power wire and two light wires.
It is really up to personal preference.

Thanks for the reply, however my main question was have you ever had it randomly open the trunk while driving due to the foot sensor being triggered by an object on the road? I read somewhere someone saying this has happened to them. Seems impossible as I imagine the foot sensor is exactly the same as pushing the open button on the app or trunk lid, which apparently won't open the trunk unless the car has come to a complete stop.

 

[HPYC]

Frunk Install Fail

Just installed the frunk, which was fairly simple. Most of of the time was spent getting a clean install on the wiring. Then I tried closing the frunk and it will not close enough so that the suction latch can pull the trunk close. Spent hours trying to diagnose the issue, but no luck. The hood closes at the set speed, then at the end sort of bounces as the struts are at the bottom of its range, or shortest length, but the latch has not yet made contact with the locking mechanism.

I have set the strength of the close to the max number 5 (per instructions, close latch with frunk open then press button on unit to change strength to 5). I thought it wasn’t strong enough to close, but it didn’t help.

however, when it closes, the hood stops or hangs up 3 inches so the latch doesn’t engage the lock. I took out all of the frunk plastic liner/parts to ensure nothing was getting in the way of the hood closing. With power disengaged to the hanshow control box, I close the trunk manually, but it stops about 3 inches such that the latch doesn’t touch the locking mechanism. When I look under the hood through the gap, I can see that the struts have bottomed or shortened to its minimum height and keeps the hood from closing further. I can see that nothing else is keeping the hood from closing except for the struts bottoming out. Alyson confirmed the locking mechanism is in the open position to accept the hood latch and the hood is centered properly.

if I force the hood closed, there is a bulge on the side of the hood and the hood does not lay flush. it seems as if the struts are just a tad too long such that it is keeping the hood from going down any further. The only way to get the hood down is to bend the front of the hood down, which then results in a bulge on the sides of the hood.

has anyone had similar issues? The struts are labeled MC-607 model 3_(C)BJ12011 and the other one is the same except the number at the end is 12012. I have a July 2019 model 3, but assume nothing has changed in the build from earlier models.

see picture of where the hood bottoms out due to the struts bottoming out. In have checked to see that nothing else is keeping the hood from closing. The bumpers on the side of the hood are not even close to touching the base of the car.

UPDATE: reinstalled factory struts as the hanshow struts seem too long so it stops the trunk from closing fully. I thought I could move the strut attachment points a little but there doesn’t seem to be an ability to do so as there isn’t much play in the brackets.

Here are a few additional photos when the frunk hood is closed to its limit as allowed by the hanshow struts. You can see that the strut is fully compressed and doesn’t let the hood lower further. Also observed that the struts are so thick that they contact and push the frunk liner on each side toward the middle of the car a little. Not sure if that will put enough pressure on the clips to break over time (the top clip closest to the windshield).

hope others are having better luck. Can someone provide the model number on their strut?

 

[HPYC]

Could someone post a pic of the strut model number for either the frunk or trunk? I ordered both the frunk and trunk kits and wonder if they mixed up the struts in the kits because as I posted the front kit struts wouldn’t allow the frunk to close. Just opened up the trunk kit and the strut is about 1/2 to 3/4 shorter.

 

[jmb4370]

@HPYC : I have a trunk lift kit that I have not installed yet, and the struts are 1.25 inches in diameter, and 13 inches CTC (center to center) of the mounting holes. Unfortunately, there are no visible markings for any model numbers on either strut

 

[not4antoher]

Could someone post a pic of the strut model number for either the frunk or trunk? I ordered both the frunk and trunk kits and wonder if they mixed up the struts in the kits because as I posted the front kit struts wouldn’t allow the frunk to close. Just opened up the trunk kit and the strut is about 1/2 to 3/4 shorter.

Here is mine.
The numbers looks like serial numbers.
The both struts are looks same. There is no left or right IMO

 

[HPYC]

@HPYC : I have a trunk lift kit that I have not installed yet, and the struts are 1.25 inches in diameter, and 13 inches CTC (center to center) of the mounting holes. Unfortunately, there are no visible markings for any model numbers on either strut

My trunk kit struts are about 13 inches too. Seems like 13 would work better for my frunk to allow it to close. My struts have markings. The top strut was in the trunk kit.

 

[not4antoher]

Thanks for the reply, however my main question was have you ever had it randomly open the trunk while driving due to the foot sensor being triggered by an object on the road? I read somewhere someone saying this has happened to them. Seems impossible as I imagine the foot sensor is exactly the same as pushing the open button on the app or trunk lid, which apparently won't open the trunk unless the car has come to a complete stop.

I have driven only two days and it never happened yet.
I heard that there is a small chance triggering foot sensor at really low speed.

 

[not4antoher]

One small problem with Hansshow rear trunk kit is the strut touches back glass molding when it opens or closed because of bigger diameter than oem.
It would damage the molding for long term usage.

 

[yerEVan]

View attachment 468189 View attachment 468190 View attachment 468191

I attached inside of the bumper with double side tape.

Did you find a video on how to install the footwell? I can’t quite understand. No drilling? The sensor just works through the plastic bumper? And the double sided tape that is not visible doesn’t interfere with it’s sensing abilities? Also, the green wire, please tell me it doesn’t below in the trunk lid through fishing it through that tube. Either way, where did you end up attaching the green footwell sensor wire to? Thank you.

 

[not4antoher]

Did you find a video on how to install the footwell? I can’t quite understand. No drilling? The sensor just works through the plastic bumper? And the double sided tape that is not visible doesn’t interfere with it’s sensing abilities? Also, the green wire, please tell me it doesn’t below in the trunk lid through fishing it through that tube. Either way, where does that green one go? Thanks.

I couldn’t find any video for the foot sensor, but it is not hard to install if you can take the bumper off. The sensor uses ultrasonics and it works through double sided tapes or plastics. I used thin 1/2” wide 3M double sided tapes. The sensor works pretty good once you feature out how to use it.
It didn’t work right after the car wash.

 

[yerEVan]

I couldn’t find any video for the foot sensor, but it is not hard to install if you can take the bumper off. The sensor uses ultrasonics and it works through double sided tapes or plastics. I used thin 1/2” wide 3M double sided tapes. The sensor works pretty good once you feature out how to use it.
It didn’t work right after the car wash.

I have the bumper off already, thanks for the info, but the green wire, where does that get connected? And i guess we don’t need the white wire?

 

[not4antoher]

I have the bumper off already, thanks for the info, but the green wire, where does that get connected? And i guess we don’t need the white wire?

You don’t need the white wire. I cut the white one.
The black and green wires need to be tapped on Hansshow light cable.

 

[yerEVan]

You don’t need the white wire. I cut the white one.
The black and green wires need to be tapped on Hansshow light cable.
View attachment 468284

Thanks for that. That helps. One last question, since you’re online, and thank you for the replies... on post 349 i have that picture. On the left part of the picture, of the wiring harness, there is that oval shaped connector, male/female with the white wire soldered to it, i didn’t see where that plugged into up on the trunk lid, so i just completed the circuit to itself by just plugging it into itself. Then i saw a video after i already put the trunk lid plastic cover back on, and it showed him plugging it into something way up in the lid, which i did not see.

So, everything works normal, so I’m wondering, did you find that thing to plug into? Or just plugged it into itself? Thanks again. And sorry for so many questions. I would PM you, but my question may possibly help someone else, but i doubt anyone is this moronic.

 

[not4antoher]

Thanks for that. That helps. One last question, since you’re online, and thank you for the replies... on post 349 i have that picture. On the left part of the picture, of the wiring harness, there is that oval shaped connector, male/female with the white wire soldered to it, i didn’t see where that plugged into up on the trunk lid, so i just completed the circuit to itself by just plugging it into itself. Then i saw a video after i already put the trunk lid plastic cover back on, and it showed him plugging it into something way up in the lid, which i did not see.

So, everything works normal, so I’m wondering, did you find that thing to plug into? Or just plugged it into itself? Thanks again. And sorry for so many questions. I would PM you, but my question may possibly help someone else, but i doubt anyone is this moronic.

Check the center hole inside on the deck lid. You will find the connector.
I do not have picture for that.

 

[Skione65]

You don’t need the white wire. I cut the white one.
The black and green wires need to be tapped on Hansshow light cable.
View attachment 468284

@not4antoher,

Appreciate the inner bumper foot sensor photos. That was my plan as well. On the foot sensor wires did they include the wire taps or did you have some handy (what size)?

Ski