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Group Buy for Power Trunk/Frunk Liftgate!
- Thread starter OmegaZ
- Start date
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- frunk power liftgate sensor trunk
Speaking of the photo in post #349.....man....my wires are total different colors.....where that photo has Yellow Blue Black I’ve got White Black Red wires....I’m not kidding you. Color wise totally different....as long as it works!
Ski
Ski
I ran the cable though lower quarter panel grommets since rear bumper was already detached.
Much better solution! I’ll do the same. Man your photos are Pure Gold for install help! Yea...someone ran it through the light housing hole and crimped the wire pretty badly where the water seal is. I want to avoid that.
I thought that first grommet photo was for the foot sensor wiring....where’d you run that?
Ski
I was hoping this wasn’t an issue and was alleviated compared to the TeslaOffer kit. It has the “rippled” rubber boot on the actuator and had the same issue but much worse rubbing and flexing that window seal. I was hoping this kit with just the plain ‘cylinder’ and possibly being narrower alleviated that issue.
Ski
yerEVan
Active Member
Ok
Ok found it, awesome, thank you again. With a friend, this process thus far took about 5 hours. I still have to put the bumper back on :|.
My factory standard struts rub that seal on the back window when the lid closes, you have to look from the right angle to see it, but it happens.
Blue Express
Member
I have recently purchased the Hansshow automatic trunk kit for my Model 3 but I have decided not to proceed with the installation. It is still brand new in the box. Anyone interested in it can contact me directly.
yerEVan
Active Member
Yes I found a way, you have to remove the bumper though, which is not hard. There are two grommets, openings under the bumper so i was able to put it through there. I didn’t like the tail light option, it was a tight fit and the taillight didn’t seem to line up right.
There is an oval opening under the passenger side of the bumper and a round, smaller, opening on the driver’s side.
Here is a pic of the driver’s side. It goes under the bumper, then up a little into that hole. You remove the grommet from the inside of the trunk. They are blue. Oddly the pic uploads sideways. Sorry. I also was able to tuck it behind that plastic guard there if you notice. The top part pops out easily to slip the cable behind it to make it tighter against the vehicle.
I also ran the footwell sensor through the passenger side grommet under that bumper along with the strut cable. All fit fine. No problems.
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yerEVan
Active Member
Not bad. However, in one of the videos the guy from California that put his car up on ramps, he apparently didn’t have a screw you have to remove at the far edge of each side of the bumper (towards the front of car). I had to unscrew that to remove the bumper. If you don’t you will probably break that plastic piece against the car that is supposed to stay there. Also, he recommends masking taping the metal above the side of the bumper, and I recommend you do that.
yerEVan
Active Member
Take a look at my last post with picture. I changed the picture, I was able to tuck the cable behind a plastic piece to make it neater.
Thanks for the pics. Looks like I have the same struts. Does your hood closing look smooth (like Frugal Tesla Guy)? Here's a link to a vid on how my frunk closes. It cannot go all the way down and kind of bounces at the end (because of the struts' limitation), but still short of contacting the lock. Anyone have a similar closing action? Hanshow said to raise the locking block up, but I don't see how the large gap would be made up, not to mention still have to bend the hood. Also, the hood probably wouldn't line up with the body panels properly. right now, without the struts on, the hood matches all body panels well when closed.
Now that’s smooth closing. I have adjusted the metal cable but the problem is the hood can’t get down to close properly because it is prevented from reaching the locking mechanism due to the struts. With the power off to the system and slowly lowering the hood it stops such that the hood latch doesn’t even contact the locking mechanism. I could force it down but it goes down because the hood is flexing vs the struts and hinge allowing that movement. Also forcing it close makes the hood on the sides sit higher than the fender.
For your factory struts, what is the measurement from ball cup to ball cup on center?
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