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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install
- Thread starter dendenyc
- Start date
@blaferty,
Stephen told me 10 days ago he’ll have the Canbus OBD adapter ready for 2018 models (In 5 days) since the new one doesn’t fit. Any progress on that? WhatsApp him or CiCi. Preferably him since he’s the one I talked to. We shouldn’t need to be cutting and splicing and piecemeal hacking things together at this point after paying good money for these upgrade kits.
Ski
apchoo
Member
A couple of developments. Yesterday evening I applied the 2020.24.6.9 update. With the Stage 3 lockdown in the state of Victoria (we're enduring a 2nd wave 
), I couldn't go out for a test drive as that doesn't fall into one of the 4 permitted reasons to leave our homes. This morning I'd planned to install the foot sensor, so I pressed the button to pop the trunk and ... nothing happened . Tried a couple more times without success. Same thing with my phone app. Hit OPEN button on the screen and button briefly changed to greyed OPENED but the trunk didn't pop. No beeps, and the button stayed on OPEN. Tried to recall any procedure from Hansshow to manually open the trunk should this occur, and besides popping the internal emergency button from the back seat, my mind drew a blank.
I did what every IT support would recommend ... reboot. Did a soft reboot, no joy. Did a hard reboot ... the trunk opened when I tap on the OPEN button ... whew! The lid closed when I tapped on the Hansshow button on the lid. But when I tapped on the button again to open, nothing happened . From the rear windscreen I could see that the button on the screen briefly changed to greyed OPENED each time I tapped on the physical button but the trunk did not open. Same thing when I tried the app and screen. I was starting to get worried.
Another soft reboot ... nothing. Another hard reboot ... and the trunk opened. This time, the trunk continued to open and close via all means. Did many combos and it worked every time since.
What does it all mean? I don't know. Perhaps the 2020.24.6.9 update needed some time to complete some kind of reconfiguration. My contingency was to unplug the OBD adapter cable. That should fix the problem ... yes?
After all that drama, I proceeded with the foot sensor install. This is what the inside of the fascia looked like after I removed the tow hitch panel.
Unlike the EU Model 3s which come with a tow hitch receiver installed, nothing is installed for AU Model 3s (like everywhere else).
At this point, I began to contemplate if I would get an ECO Hitch in the future. I had almost decided to attach the foot sensor to the inside of the tow hitch panel using double-sided tape, but if I install a tow hitch, I'd have to remove the panel when using it, therefore, the panel isn't really a suitable spot to attach the foot sensor. I felt around the inside of the fascia toward the rear of the car and I couldn't feel any suitable spot for the sensor.
If I attached the foot sensor towards one side of the panel (see yellow rectangle) ...
... then I could cut a hole in the panel to accommodate the tow hitch if/when I get one. I believe you can buy a cover from ECO hitch to cover the hole pretty much like for those early Model 3s that do not have the removable panel.
To cut an already long story short, I decided against installing the foot sensor. My wife reckons it wouldn't be a feature she would use, and personally I'd wanted to install it for completeness. So that's that. The foot sensor remains in its packaging box (for now). If I do end up with installing a tow hitch, I would have to remove the bumper and maybe then I would revisit the foot sensor and install it somewhere inside the bumper. Keen to hear what you guys decide on your foot sensor installation.
), I couldn't go out for a test drive as that doesn't fall into one of the 4 permitted reasons to leave our homes. This morning I'd planned to install the foot sensor, so I pressed the button to pop the trunk and ... nothing happened . Tried a couple more times without success. Same thing with my phone app. Hit OPEN button on the screen and button briefly changed to greyed OPENED but the trunk didn't pop. No beeps, and the button stayed on OPEN. Tried to recall any procedure from Hansshow to manually open the trunk should this occur, and besides popping the internal emergency button from the back seat, my mind drew a blank.I did what every IT support would recommend ... reboot
. Did a soft reboot, no joy. Did a hard reboot ... the trunk opened when I tap on the OPEN button ... whew! The lid closed when I tapped on the Hansshow button on the lid. But when I tapped on the button again to open, nothing happened . From the rear windscreen I could see that the button on the screen briefly changed to greyed OPENED each time I tapped on the physical button but the trunk did not open. Same thing when I tried the app and screen. I was starting to get worried.Another soft reboot ... nothing. Another hard reboot ... and the trunk opened. This time, the trunk continued to open and close via all means. Did many combos and it worked every time since.
What does it all mean? I don't know. Perhaps the 2020.24.6.9 update needed some time to complete some kind of reconfiguration. My contingency was to unplug the OBD adapter cable. That should fix the problem ... yes?
After all that drama, I proceeded with the foot sensor install. This is what the inside of the fascia looked like after I removed the tow hitch panel.
Unlike the EU Model 3s which come with a tow hitch receiver installed, nothing is installed for AU Model 3s (like everywhere else).
At this point, I began to contemplate if I would get an ECO Hitch in the future. I had almost decided to attach the foot sensor to the inside of the tow hitch panel using double-sided tape, but if I install a tow hitch, I'd have to remove the panel when using it, therefore, the panel isn't really a suitable spot to attach the foot sensor
. I felt around the inside of the fascia toward the rear of the car and I couldn't feel any suitable spot for the sensor.If I attached the foot sensor towards one side of the panel (see yellow rectangle) ...
... then I could cut a hole in the panel to accommodate the tow hitch if/when I get one. I believe you can buy a cover from ECO hitch to cover the hole pretty much like for those early Model 3s that do not have the removable panel.
To cut an already long story short, I decided against installing the foot sensor. My wife reckons it wouldn't be a feature she would use, and personally I'd wanted to install it for completeness
. So that's that. The foot sensor remains in its packaging box (for now). If I do end up with installing a tow hitch, I would have to remove the bumper and maybe then I would revisit the foot sensor and install it somewhere inside the bumper. Keen to hear what you guys decide on your foot sensor installation.So, 1 month in and an estimated 600 cycles (currently moonlighting as a courier). All working well, haven’t connected the CAN bus as I don’t see any need to! However, the edge of the rear window seal is being abraded, and on the left hand side has actually torn (pictured, tear is the bottom mark). Asked Hansshow and was told “Use glue to stick it up”. Hmmm...
apchoo
Member
Yes, I mentioned GummiPfleger product to protect the weather seals. This is good stuff for all weather seals around the entire car.
With @Melman 's damage, an additional preventative effort may be (my guess) to coat the strut with something slippery like a ceramic coat or wax. That way when it touches there's less friction which is what is causing that damage.
After sending email about receiving two of the same can/obd ('19+) connectors, I was connected to a"group with professionals"
on Whatsapp.
I was told the CAN connector is not needed for '18 upgrade to v4. My local l installer says it may only provide
warning if you drive off with trunk open.
Nonetheless, CAN harness for pre '19 is still 'almost' ready & I asked that one be shipped to me.
Install is scheduled in about 10 days.
on Whatsapp.
I was told the CAN connector is not needed for '18 upgrade to v4. My local l installer says it may only provide
warning if you drive off with trunk open.
Nonetheless, CAN harness for pre '19 is still 'almost' ready & I asked that one be shipped to me.
Install is scheduled in about 10 days.
Take your old strut and try running the casing along the weather strip gently so you get an indication of resistance. Then try it again with whatever coatings you have applied to the old strut and see if there's a difference. Doing this with the old strut not being mounted should let you feel the difference if any.
Then most importantly let us know the results
I did a lot more work on my Hanshow V4 Trunk install over the weekend, including the following parts:
(1) The dreaded fishing up through the rubber conduit to the trunk lid
(2) 12V and GND install under the rear seat
(3) CANBUS connector install
(4) Connected everything up and got it working!
I haven't finalized anything in the trunk area yet (still cables loose everywhere and all trim still removed) so that's the big remaining item.
Since this was quite a lot of work, and I wanted to share experiences in detail, I'm going to post about each step separately. First up, the fishing nightmare....
The fishing was... pretty awful, despite my best efforts to learn and prepare ahead of time. I started out well by removing the connector plug (easy to do) from the one cable that gets fished up. I then combined that with the other cable (the one that comes with five pre-stripped bare wires) and hooked them up to the fish loop cable and did the very simple fishing from the trunk to the start of the rubber conduit (at the bottom). This is simple enough as it's a large hole on both ends. I pulled the cable through so they were all on the outside of the car, ready to be fished up the actual rubber conduit.
Then I tried to run the fishing wire that they supply, from the top of the conduit to the bottom. It was easy to get started (the conduit is wide enough) but it was not so easy to get it all the way to the bottom. I did make it easier by being able to pull one of the plastic clips out of the bodywork, which allowed me to maneuver the fishing wire more (the difficulty is that the conduit isn't a straight run). Eventually I was able to get the wire out at the bottom.
At that point I again attached the wire bundle to the special fish loop cable in preparation for fishing it up through the conduit. I connected the eye of the fire wire to the fish loop by taking a twisty tie and twisting it tight (well I thought it was tight!), and then I wrapped some tape around things as well, and began trying to pull things up. It was immediately difficult so I went and sprayed some WD-40 down the conduit (and also up from the bottom some). Then I tried again and it was unbelievably easier and I thought I would be done in 30 seconds. Except that I got about 2/3 of the way through and then the fish wire separated from the fish cable loop (where I had twisty tied them together and wrapped in tape). Disaster! The cables were half way up. Thankfully I was able to pull them back down to try a re-attempt.
What had happened was that the WD-40 wrecked the tape adhesive so that became useless, and then my twisty tie wasn't enough to hold the fish wire and the fish loop together. So knew I needed a better way to connect those for a re-attempt. I decided to use a zip tie (the plastic ones that lock as you tighten them). I threaded it through the eye of the fish wire end, and then looped through the fish cable. It seemed perfect and I started again and everything seemed great and then at about 2/3 done again the fish wire suddenly separated again. I pulled it all back out once again, and found out that the metal fish loop had actually snapped!! Ugh.
At this point I was not in a good way because the fish loop cable was totally broken on the end that you pull from. It was still good on the end with the wires attached though, so I had to try and get creative and eventually I was able to jam the broken cable end into the eye of the fish wire by pulling a zip tie through the eye at the same time so that the metal wire (that used to be a metal loop) was just jammed in tight. Then I was finally able to pull the fishing from bottom to top! It took me probably close to 2 hours to finish this fishing nightmare. But if I did it again I hope I could find a way to attach the fish wire and the fish loop well, and it wouldn't snap. I wonder what others did here?
In hindsight I wish I had used something better than WD-40 too. It also caused the Hansshow cable wrapping to start to unpeel and I had to wipe a lot of stuff dry at the end.
(1) The dreaded fishing up through the rubber conduit to the trunk lid
(2) 12V and GND install under the rear seat
(3) CANBUS connector install
(4) Connected everything up and got it working!
I haven't finalized anything in the trunk area yet (still cables loose everywhere and all trim still removed) so that's the big remaining item.
Since this was quite a lot of work, and I wanted to share experiences in detail, I'm going to post about each step separately. First up, the fishing nightmare....
The fishing was... pretty awful, despite my best efforts to learn and prepare ahead of time. I started out well by removing the connector plug (easy to do) from the one cable that gets fished up. I then combined that with the other cable (the one that comes with five pre-stripped bare wires) and hooked them up to the fish loop cable and did the very simple fishing from the trunk to the start of the rubber conduit (at the bottom). This is simple enough as it's a large hole on both ends. I pulled the cable through so they were all on the outside of the car, ready to be fished up the actual rubber conduit.
Then I tried to run the fishing wire that they supply, from the top of the conduit to the bottom. It was easy to get started (the conduit is wide enough) but it was not so easy to get it all the way to the bottom. I did make it easier by being able to pull one of the plastic clips out of the bodywork, which allowed me to maneuver the fishing wire more (the difficulty is that the conduit isn't a straight run). Eventually I was able to get the wire out at the bottom.
At that point I again attached the wire bundle to the special fish loop cable in preparation for fishing it up through the conduit. I connected the eye of the fire wire to the fish loop by taking a twisty tie and twisting it tight (well I thought it was tight!), and then I wrapped some tape around things as well, and began trying to pull things up. It was immediately difficult so I went and sprayed some WD-40 down the conduit (and also up from the bottom some). Then I tried again and it was unbelievably easier and I thought I would be done in 30 seconds. Except that I got about 2/3 of the way through and then the fish wire separated from the fish cable loop (where I had twisty tied them together and wrapped in tape). Disaster! The cables were half way up. Thankfully I was able to pull them back down to try a re-attempt.
What had happened was that the WD-40 wrecked the tape adhesive so that became useless, and then my twisty tie wasn't enough to hold the fish wire and the fish loop together. So knew I needed a better way to connect those for a re-attempt. I decided to use a zip tie (the plastic ones that lock as you tighten them). I threaded it through the eye of the fish wire end, and then looped through the fish cable. It seemed perfect and I started again and everything seemed great and then at about 2/3 done again the fish wire suddenly separated again. I pulled it all back out once again, and found out that the metal fish loop had actually snapped!! Ugh.
At this point I was not in a good way because the fish loop cable was totally broken on the end that you pull from. It was still good on the end with the wires attached though, so I had to try and get creative and eventually I was able to jam the broken cable end into the eye of the fish wire by pulling a zip tie through the eye at the same time so that the metal wire (that used to be a metal loop) was just jammed in tight. Then I was finally able to pull the fishing from bottom to top! It took me probably close to 2 hours to finish this fishing nightmare. But if I did it again I hope I could find a way to attach the fish wire and the fish loop well, and it wouldn't snap. I wonder what others did here?
In hindsight I wish I had used something better than WD-40 too. It also caused the Hansshow cable wrapping to start to unpeel and I had to wipe a lot of stuff dry at the end.
(2) 12V and GND install under the rear seat
This was easy, but it took me time to do it neatly and well. I followed Electrified Garage's video. The backseat is incredibly easy to remove.. I may remove it any time I want to clean the car thoroughly in future! What you do is feel along the edge (behind your calves if you were sitting in the rear seat) and you'll feel a clip roughly in the middle of where you sit (one on each side). That is a simple plastic slider that unclips the front of the seat so you open both. Then you simply lift the seat up and out (although you have to disconnect the two heated seat connectors - one on each side - before you can fully lift it out).
Then there's a piece of foam molding that you lift up (on the right hand side) and under there are the 12V and GND terminals. The 12V is covered in a rubber enclosure with a rubber "lid" that seals watertight. I had to install the hansshow connector under that rubber lid and then close the lid back down again on top of it, but that means the seal is no longer perfect. I'm not worried since it's in an area under the seat where I don't see any need for water tightness.
Aside from connecting the two connectors under the GND and 12V nuts, I then just tried carefully to run the cables back into the trunk, taking care to thread underneath existing cabling, and to route under the folding seat hinge/axle into the trunk.
As has been said elsewhere, I really don't see the reason that Hansshow and others are suggesting to get power from anywhere else - this is a really easy spot
oh.. edit to add some key points:
(1) I powered off from the screen in the front before unscrewing the 12V and GND nuts to slide the connector under
(2) I also did the clip thing that Electrified Garage shows.. a grey plastic connector just near the power, that you clip sideways ... watch the video to see. I was worried because it felt like it might break, and also because honestly I don't know what this thing does. But anyway I also flipped it down before doing the connector installs, and then flipped it back up after finishing
This was easy, but it took me time to do it neatly and well. I followed Electrified Garage's video. The backseat is incredibly easy to remove.. I may remove it any time I want to clean the car thoroughly in future! What you do is feel along the edge (behind your calves if you were sitting in the rear seat) and you'll feel a clip roughly in the middle of where you sit (one on each side). That is a simple plastic slider that unclips the front of the seat so you open both. Then you simply lift the seat up and out (although you have to disconnect the two heated seat connectors - one on each side - before you can fully lift it out).
Then there's a piece of foam molding that you lift up (on the right hand side) and under there are the 12V and GND terminals. The 12V is covered in a rubber enclosure with a rubber "lid" that seals watertight. I had to install the hansshow connector under that rubber lid and then close the lid back down again on top of it, but that means the seal is no longer perfect. I'm not worried since it's in an area under the seat where I don't see any need for water tightness.
Aside from connecting the two connectors under the GND and 12V nuts, I then just tried carefully to run the cables back into the trunk, taking care to thread underneath existing cabling, and to route under the folding seat hinge/axle into the trunk.
As has been said elsewhere, I really don't see the reason that Hansshow and others are suggesting to get power from anywhere else - this is a really easy spot
oh.. edit to add some key points:
(1) I powered off from the screen in the front before unscrewing the 12V and GND nuts to slide the connector under
(2) I also did the clip thing that Electrified Garage shows.. a grey plastic connector just near the power, that you clip sideways ... watch the video to see. I was worried because it felt like it might break, and also because honestly I don't know what this thing does. But anyway I also flipped it down before doing the connector installs, and then flipped it back up after finishing
(3) CANBUS connector install
This was quite tricky to get done as perfectly as I wanted. First it is not very easy to remove the plastic panel under the rear A/C vents. The pry tool was not strong enough to pull it away, and in the end I was only just able to use the tool to get my fingers under the edge. And not easily. If you have large fingers that might be really tricky to do. But once I did get my fingers under the edge, I just pulled hard backwards, and slightly upwards, and it snapped away dramatically. The clip mechanism is sturdy here though so I don't think there's any danger of breaking anything.
I have a 2020 with the blue canbus connector and so it was easy to just disconnect and then insert the Hansshow harness in-between before reconnecting. Hansshow's has two pigtail sockets that hang off that, and the cable from the control box just plugs into one of them. I assume they're identical and just picked one (and I read elsewhere that they are identical and it's just to allow for plugging two things into it). After connecting the harness in, I tucked everything quite easily into a cavity in a metal hole that is right beneath the connector, so it wasn't hard to fit the extra connector in there.
The bit that was really a challenge with this part of the install, was to run the cable from the trunk to the place where this canbus connection is. I tried one way going directly backwards from the canbus connector to the rear seats, but realized I just couldn't get under the carpet there, not even with a fish cable. So instead I went the way that others have shown - sideways across to the side of the car (underneath the passenger seat) and then along the edge of the floor (just below the rear passenger door) and into the trunk. The bit running backward under the rear door is easy. But the bit between the canbus and the side of the car wasn't so easy. First I had to fish from the canbus connector, under the carpet, into an open area that is between the carpet layers and under a plastic piece that sits under the passenger seat. This was tricky.. I had to bend the side of the center console upwards a bit to create enough space to fish under it and the carpet. But once done, it's easy under the actual passenger seat as it's pretty open there, and I ran from there to the side of the car quite easily. To actually get all the way to the side trim though, I actually went into the front and unclipped the plastic under the passenger door, and undid one plastic clip there to get the cable channeled underneath the carpet all the way. I'm sure this is not very clear what I mean unless someone has actually done an install attempt in that area, sorry.
Anyway, if you get it done like I did then there are *zero* pieces of the cable visible anywhere in the interior of the car. You can go all the way under the carpet and the trim. If anyone has any questions on this I could try to show some photos or video.
This was quite tricky to get done as perfectly as I wanted. First it is not very easy to remove the plastic panel under the rear A/C vents. The pry tool was not strong enough to pull it away, and in the end I was only just able to use the tool to get my fingers under the edge. And not easily. If you have large fingers that might be really tricky to do. But once I did get my fingers under the edge, I just pulled hard backwards, and slightly upwards, and it snapped away dramatically. The clip mechanism is sturdy here though so I don't think there's any danger of breaking anything.
I have a 2020 with the blue canbus connector and so it was easy to just disconnect and then insert the Hansshow harness in-between before reconnecting. Hansshow's has two pigtail sockets that hang off that, and the cable from the control box just plugs into one of them. I assume they're identical and just picked one (and I read elsewhere that they are identical and it's just to allow for plugging two things into it). After connecting the harness in, I tucked everything quite easily into a cavity in a metal hole that is right beneath the connector, so it wasn't hard to fit the extra connector in there.
The bit that was really a challenge with this part of the install, was to run the cable from the trunk to the place where this canbus connection is. I tried one way going directly backwards from the canbus connector to the rear seats, but realized I just couldn't get under the carpet there, not even with a fish cable. So instead I went the way that others have shown - sideways across to the side of the car (underneath the passenger seat) and then along the edge of the floor (just below the rear passenger door) and into the trunk. The bit running backward under the rear door is easy. But the bit between the canbus and the side of the car wasn't so easy. First I had to fish from the canbus connector, under the carpet, into an open area that is between the carpet layers and under a plastic piece that sits under the passenger seat. This was tricky.. I had to bend the side of the center console upwards a bit to create enough space to fish under it and the carpet. But once done, it's easy under the actual passenger seat as it's pretty open there, and I ran from there to the side of the car quite easily. To actually get all the way to the side trim though, I actually went into the front and unclipped the plastic under the passenger door, and undid one plastic clip there to get the cable channeled underneath the carpet all the way. I'm sure this is not very clear what I mean unless someone has actually done an install attempt in that area, sorry.
Anyway, if you get it done like I did then there are *zero* pieces of the cable visible anywhere in the interior of the car. You can go all the way under the carpet and the trim. If anyone has any questions on this I could try to show some photos or video.
(4) Connected everything up and got it working!
I inserted all the plugs in the trunk lid and twisted the wires together (just a temporary install for now) and put the connector plug back onto the second cable and plugged in the trunk release switch into that. Then I plugged everything into the control box and gave it a shot. At first it wouldn't work and I had to mess around with opening and closing, and triggering the latch with a screwdriver, and I honestly don't remember what combination I did, but suddenly I pressed the button and it worked, perfectly! I will revisit things as I finalize the install, and may need to check for good closing , and may need to tune the suction lock part, but basically it already seems perfect!
The only concern I have at this point is that I can see that those struts *really* press against the weather seal during the open/close mechanism and I can absolutely see that they would cause wear/tear damage. So I've ordered that Sonax GummiPfleger stuff that was recommended elsewhere, to try and treat the rubber and maybe help it be more robust. It's hard to tell how significant a problem it would be if this seal got damaged.. I haven't tried to figure out if it's replaceable.
I inserted all the plugs in the trunk lid and twisted the wires together (just a temporary install for now) and put the connector plug back onto the second cable and plugged in the trunk release switch into that. Then I plugged everything into the control box and gave it a shot. At first it wouldn't work and I had to mess around with opening and closing, and triggering the latch with a screwdriver, and I honestly don't remember what combination I did, but suddenly I pressed the button and it worked, perfectly! I will revisit things as I finalize the install, and may need to check for good closing , and may need to tune the suction lock part, but basically it already seems perfect!
The only concern I have at this point is that I can see that those struts *really* press against the weather seal during the open/close mechanism and I can absolutely see that they would cause wear/tear damage. So I've ordered that Sonax GummiPfleger stuff that was recommended elsewhere, to try and treat the rubber and maybe help it be more robust. It's hard to tell how significant a problem it would be if this seal got damaged.. I haven't tried to figure out if it's replaceable.
Dan203
Active Member
At this point it just seems like it would be easier to buy a Model Y if you want a power trunk lid.
apchoo
Member
Ha that’s funny. But really it’s not as bad as it perhaps sounds. I’m trying to encourage with detailed experience tips, not discourage through intimidating complexity!At this point it just seems like it would be easier to buy a Model Y if you want a power trunk lid.
Simply haven’t tried it yet. Super easy to wire in but it would seem that I absolutely have to remove the bumper if I want to install it , so a lot of hassle and more I want to research before tacklingWell done
