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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install
- Thread starter dendenyc
- Start date
When I get finished I am going to try and put together a concise summary that explains what parts of the install are at all difficult. There's videos and other people's thoughts out there so you can probably gather that anyway, but I just want to summarize it in case it will help. Also a lot of the stuff out there relates to older versions of the kits, or older install methods that have been refined, so I hope it will be helpful to have a fresh view.
But really, aside from the foot sensors, overall this is not that hard an install for anyone with any level of basic practical skills. The frunk is really easy in fact.
I just applied the Sonax GuumiPfledger to the rubber weather seal that's around the glass roof edge where the struts are. While it seems like good treatment for rubber in general, I'm not sure it will be all that effective in avoiding what looks like a slight pinching effect that the Hansshow strut has
Frieda’s Boss
Model 3 AWD Silver + Model Y AWD Red
V4 Trunk: Anybody having problems with the soft-close latch? It looks like the actuator pulls the cable to suck down the latch, but I’m not hearing it and I don’t see that nearly as clearly as with the Frunk Kit. Also, when I pull up on the trunk, it’s locked, but there’s a little play, 1/8”~1/4”, leading me to think the soft close isn’t pulling down effectively.
I’ve tested:
- Loosen T45 torxes and reposition the Latch Plate at the highest point, latch will catch correctly (just not suck down)
- Reposition at the lowest point, latch won’t catch at all, leaving trunk open
- Adjust tightening/loosening screws at the actuator housing
- At maximum distance (ie. latch is at the highest position on the plate), trunk will latch correctly (just not suck down)
- At factory distance, trunk wouldn’t latch
So it feels like the HW is setup correctly, just not pulling the cable for the soft-close. Is there a way I can test this independently without activating the struts, just to see if the latch is sucking correctly?
I’ve tested:
- Loosen T45 torxes and reposition the Latch Plate at the highest point, latch will catch correctly (just not suck down)
- Reposition at the lowest point, latch won’t catch at all, leaving trunk open
- Adjust tightening/loosening screws at the actuator housing
- At maximum distance (ie. latch is at the highest position on the plate), trunk will latch correctly (just not suck down)
- At factory distance, trunk wouldn’t latch
So it feels like the HW is setup correctly, just not pulling the cable for the soft-close. Is there a way I can test this independently without activating the struts, just to see if the latch is sucking correctly?
Frieda’s Boss
Model 3 AWD Silver + Model Y AWD Red
Just FYI, the EG vid shows a great tip to slide the +12V connector through the opening of the rubber enclosure so that it doesn’t compromise the top ‘lid’ of the enclosure. An added benefit is that it keeps the fuse box nice and flat next to it.
The trickiest part of it all was I had to wrap electrical tape over the metal connector end before passing it through because it was sparking as it touched the terminal, then has to get needle nose pliers to pull it through the corner of the rubber enclosure. In the end though, well worth it IMO:
Frieda’s Boss
Model 3 AWD Silver + Model Y AWD Red
Unfortunately it doesn’t, so I’m thinking it’s a bad actuator. Checked:
- For no kinks in the cable
- That the connectors were plugged in snugly to the controller box
- That the harness to the actuator was connected snugly
Lastly, I climbed into the backseat to watch it all, and the soft-close latch never moves at all. You can see in this pic that the lock is engaged and there’s room for about 3/8” of travel to soft-close, but it never pulls down for the soft-close.
Frieda’s Boss
Model 3 AWD Silver + Model Y AWD Red
Good suggestion, I just tried it but no movement either on the unplug or plug back in
I also did the hard reboot of the controller, because I have time...no difference.
The most frustrating part is being so close to the finish line and stumbling on these last few items!
How about reflashing the firmware? But that will probably wipe any settings you might have had such as closing speed. If you've unplugged and replugged latch motor cable on both ends (latch end and control box end) and reflashed the firmware and it still doesn't work then either the latch motor is defective or control box. Also, is there a kink in the latch motor cable (between motor and latch)?
BM3B
“beaver”
I have V3, self installed earlier this year (a huge pain without the youtube video), and it's been working perfectly...until last week. I packed up the trunk for a weekend trip, hit the close button, it went down then popped up since there was a stroller not allowing it to close properly. No problem, I thought, I adjusted the packing and it was all fitting well. Trunk glided down but did not close or latch, I heard nothing from the soft close mechanism.
I have tried everything I can think of on my own, and now with Stephen's help from Hansshow, but no resolution yet. The soft close ring is not moving at all, it's stuck down which means the trunk cannot latch closed. I got the cable to move a small amount by unplugging the state signal connector, but that's rare and there is no ring movement. Stephan asked me to open up the back interior shelf (speakers) to measure the voltage on a wire but I am reluctant since that job is a huge pain in the rear. Easiest fix may be replacing the soft close motor if it's bad.
I will look up how to flash the controller. If anyone has ideas I am all ears. Thanks, will keep you all updated,.
I have tried everything I can think of on my own, and now with Stephen's help from Hansshow, but no resolution yet. The soft close ring is not moving at all, it's stuck down which means the trunk cannot latch closed. I got the cable to move a small amount by unplugging the state signal connector, but that's rare and there is no ring movement. Stephan asked me to open up the back interior shelf (speakers) to measure the voltage on a wire but I am reluctant since that job is a huge pain in the rear. Easiest fix may be replacing the soft close motor if it's bad.
I will look up how to flash the controller. If anyone has ideas I am all ears. Thanks, will keep you all updated,.
I had similar problems and it ended up being a pin inside the trunk oem plug that was pushed it for some reason. It was a pain to get it to stick out while you plug in the hansshow plug but it finally works.
To flash the firmware, you get the file from hansshow. Then you put it on a microsd card and put it in the controller. It'll flash for 5 seconds and you're done.
To flash the firmware, you get the file from hansshow. Then you put it on a microsd card and put it in the controller. It'll flash for 5 seconds and you're done.
BM3B
“beaver”
Thanks for the tip! Which trunk OEM plug, The one under the speakers that is a major pain to access?
BM3B
“beaver”
Do you know what version you have? It sounds like maybe V2 or V4 that route many cables through the trunk tube? I have V3, I haven't routed anything to the trunk yet (the open button is just out still since I haven't closed up), I had to put the state signal interrupt cable under the rear deck where speakers were. Hansshow is telling me that maybe that cable is loose (F%#$!!!!).
Frieda’s Boss
Model 3 AWD Silver + Model Y AWD Red
After troubleshooting via FT with a Hansshow guy, we traced it to exactly the same situation as @bsk997 where the innermost of 3 pins on the latch housing got pushed in when connecting the Hansshow harness. Unfortunately, trying to pull that pin out was a Royal PITA because there’s so little horizontal room to maneuver a pair of needlenose pliers and there’s also a locking clip that looks like it’s supposed to keep those pins in place (I had to flip it up to move the pin around, then flip it back down to lock it in):
