Hansshow V5 Power Frunk Issue (2022)

[Gogogadgetone]

I recently installed the V5 Power Frunk for my 2022 Model Y Performance. I am running into an issue where the control box beeps when I am not trying to use the power Frunk. The box will beep every few seconds and while this is happening, if I try to open the Frunk, it unlatches but doesn’t open automatically. (If I close the Frunk and try again, it will then open all the way up on this second try)

Through some initial testing, the control box appears to start beeping when I run the AC to cool the car down remotely. The beeping only occurs when the Frunk is shut. It may also be helpful to point out that the control box beeps one time, when I open the doors for the first time, but this does not hinder the auto Frunk.

I have reached out to Hannshow Auto and they replaced the control box, but this did not fix the issue. They think it might be a signal issue with the new 2022 model Y, but are looking into it.

Has anyone experienced this?

 

[LVChawk]

If you have an indent on your hood when it latches closes after the beep then you need to adjust latch mount. You also might need to check the cable latch. I also installed the EVoffer Mark 5 and my cable was super short. I had to extend my cable to max so it can reach the hook. You might need to loosen the cable.

So the latch mount is up as far as possible, I think I spent a few hours undoing and remounting it over and over, moving it up as much as possible. Got a little better but not perfect. Maybe I did something wrong with the cable like you said. I was able to pull it over the first time but the latch was down when I pulled it over. I wonder if it needed to be unlatched at first and then pull it over when its in that position? I'm not sure, I had to watch like 4 or 5 different videos at once to figure it all out since that specific model with the new Li-ion battery was not documented online.

 

[Jdmoto]

So the latch mount is up as far as possible, I think I spent a few hours undoing and remounting it over and over, moving it up as much as possible. Got a little better but not perfect. Maybe I did something wrong with the cable like you said. I was able to pull it over the first time but the latch was down when I pulled it over. I wonder if it needed to be unlatched at first and then pull it over when its in that position? I'm not sure, I had to watch like 4 or 5 different videos at once to figure it all out since that specific model with the new Li-ion battery was not documented online.

Ya my Mark 5 was different than the YT video for the MARK 4. If the hood can unlatch then you have enough slack to open, but I would double check, Did you place tape for realignment on the latching mech?

 

[Mujenpwr]

Here is what Hansshow support recommended. I’m not following it yet to try it.

Try resetting it:
1. Open it and pull it down two centimeters from the top
2.A bar that holds down a lock block，At the same time, double click the black button on the control box,
3. The suction lock will be closed, and the lock block is locked，
4.Loosen the bar of the lock block and press the button in the front spare box once to unlock the lock block
5.Then long press the black button on the control box. When you hear a ring, release the button
6.Press the button in the front spare box once, and it will be automatically closed. Wait for 5 seconds and then open it to check whether it is normal

 

[Benc8]

I am in the middle of installing mine right now. Hansshow V5. Will report back later today. MYP also. I have a question also. I have this in my kit. I must be tired anyone know where this goes? See pic. I don’t see it referenced in my manual or videos online.

Thx

JM

I don't believe I have that part when I r installed the Power Frunk on my MYLR.

 

[Benc8]

I currently have a few issues after installing version 5 of the Hansshow power funk on my MYLR 2022. After 2 months of working fine. I ran into these issues.
1 - the lock motor was making noise after the hood is closed. seems like it was grinding.
2 - when opening the frunk, the hood pops open, lifts an inch, and then it closes on its own. If I open it again and try to lift it up all the way, it would not let me. seems like the lift struts are trying to push it down again. Will try to post a video when I have a chance.

 

[Benc8]

I currently have a few issues after installing version 5 of the Hansshow power funk on my MYLR 2022. After 2 months of working fine. I ran into these issues.
1 - the lock motor was making noise after the hood is closed. seems like it was grinding.
2 - when opening the frunk, the hood pops open, lifts an inch, and then it closes on its own. If I open it again and try to lift it up all the way, it would not let me. seems like the lift struts are trying to push it down again. Will try to post a video when I have a chance.

here is the video. Quick Share

 

[dragonlord76]

here is the video. Quick Share

I have same grind sound and just started yesterday.

 

[Jdmoto]

I have same grind sound and just started yesterday.

I would reach out to hanshow asap. That is def. not right. Maybe reset the frunk module?

 

[mstatkus]

I had to reach out recently too. Started intermittently not closing all the way and I had to manually click down the hood. I saw there video they recommended lowering the factory latch and raising theirs but it had no effect. Worked fine for about 7 months.

 

[Jdmoto]

I had to reach out recently too. Started intermittently not closing all the way and I had to manually click down the hood. I saw there video they recommended lowering the factory latch and raising theirs but it had no effect. Worked fine for about 7 months.

The latching sensor might have gone out. If I remember correctly, the latch should be the other way around. The factory latch should be high and the "landing check" latch should be lower, the reason for this is to ensure the hood is low enough the main latching system to hook on too, and the landing check latch will engage after to ensure the hood closed.

Here is a clip from EVoffer install.

 

[mstatkus]

The latching sensor might have gone out. If I remember correctly, the latch should be the other way around. The factory latch should be high and the "landing check" latch should be lower, the reason for this is to ensure the hood is low enough the main latching system to hook on too, and the landing check latch will engage after to ensure the hood closed.

Here is a clip from EVoffer install.

Thanks, yeah I got with hannshow via WhatsApp. They were fairly responsive. I showed the issue and have started to debug the suction motor. Put a 12V power source to it and its not responding. Think all the switches were fine and its just the motor intermittently going out. It hasn't rained at all recently so I'm not sure if it got water logged over winter or just failed for some other reason.

 

[PeteOC]

Thanks, yeah I got with hannshow via WhatsApp. They were fairly responsive. I showed the issue and have started to debug the suction motor. Put a 12V power source to it and its not responding. Think all the switches were fine and its just the motor intermittently going out. It hasn't rained at all recently so I'm not sure if it got water logged over winter or just failed for some other reason.
View attachment 836101

At the very least, hopefully this picture will show Hansshow that they need to source better screws, or go with stainless at least...

 

[mstatkus]

At the very least, hopefully this picture will show Hansshow that they need to source better screws, or go with stainless at least...

The sign of water there makes me wonder if the fender well didn’t see some action this winter and maybe messed it up. Hard to say… I also used a light I had for testing connections and tapping positive and then the light on negative it lights up. So continuity is there but motor just not spinning. I tested the cable and can move it in and out so its not a obstruction.

I also spotted the new one looks like

and mine is missing some plastic by that circle.

 

[mstatkus]

Update: OCD kicked in and I wanted to see what was up inside the plastic since it looked like the housing lost some ABS by where the cable gear was. Water did indeed get in. Rust here and there. Seized up the motor. I lubricated/deep-creep and let it sit. Elaborated all the water out. Put power to it and the motor started to spin. Did further cleaning just to get it functional and put it back together. I put RTV over the hole in the plastic housing. Tested and now it pulls the hood down again. Bit of a bummer but hopefully they’ll get back to me on a new suction motor. I imagine this one is still prone to some rust but least its clear what happened.

 

[Jdmoto]

Thanks, yeah I got with hannshow via WhatsApp. They were fairly responsive. I showed the issue and have started to debug the suction motor. Put a 12V power source to it and its not responding. Think all the switches were fine and its just the motor intermittently going out. It hasn't rained at all recently so I'm not sure if it got water logged over winter or just failed for some other reason.
View attachment 836101

When i installed my kit, that was my first thought. This motorized cable system is being placed at the lowest point and open to weather environments. My worry is that it would seize over time and from your photos this looks to be true.

 

[mstatkus]

They are sending me a new motor, just had to pay shipping. I don't know what caused the ABS housing to have that defect. It may even be possible it was like that when I installed and just didn't know the difference. I get about 60" of rainfall annually, so I've relocated mine more on the black plastic beam in the front and zip tied it down. I don't think I'd put it the fender well or if I did maybe also add a waterproof bag over it.

I do wish they sold some of these parts individually for later when you're out of warranty. Good news is the motors not super hard to service though. Least no springs or anything crazy shoots out of it when you take the cover off

 

[mstatkus]

Circling back with a few behavior tips I experienced troubleshooting mine in the hopes it helps someone else because I feel like a expert now lol.

- Doesn't open great: Suction motor may not be allowing the stock latch to unhook. This could be too much tension holding the stock latch down, or some sort of sensor issue not allowing the suction motor to release. There is a stock Tesla sensor that can tell if its still down

- Doesn't open at all: Suction motor could have failed as it closed the hood. I ran into this in testing with the hood up and it was mostly caused by me though. Even with my motor not working, my hood still popped open ok. But it would depend if tension stayed on the latch as it closed. You'll notice as it closes your hood it goes down, then comes up a little. So my hope is that never happens to anyone. Tricky to get back in.

- Doesn't pull hood closed: Latch sensor alignment might not be getting enough pressure to engage the latch button telling the motor to pull the hood down. I thought this was my original issue. Other issue is a rusted suction motor like I had. Inspect motor housing and consider waterproofing your setup if you haven't already. Also check latch/hood alignment.

- Hood out of alignment: I had this issue where it was more towards the drivers side after I was done. Takes some time spent repositioning the latch the opposite direction of your issue. You can also start chasing hood height left/right so take your time and you can always compensate with hood adjustment rubber pegs and raise/lower them.

I had previously used white lithium grease to lubricate things. Be careful of sensors as many put this on battery terminals to stop corrosion, though it could hold on to dirt or things that interfere with sensor function.

 

[tlr1000]

@mstatkus, great that they sent you a replacement motor. Hopefully shipping was not too much but realistically a poorly sealed motor is not your fault and all costs should be covered.

 

[mstatkus]

@mstatkus, great that they sent you a replacement motor. Hopefully shipping was not too much but realistically a poorly sealed motor is not your fault and all costs should be covered.

Yeah and the fix hack I did only lasted a couple weeks and the motor seized up again. Once it gets wet its too easy to rust. New one just required some shipping. I’ll probably still wrap that with something so it doesn’t get beat up by the elements.

 

[Tek206]

Just finished install. got it to work. It’s pulling hood down too far when closed. Do you move the Hansshow bracket down towards ground? I have it pulled all the way up towards hood

Have you checked with the frunk liner in the frunk? I just installed mine on 2022 MYP. I noticed that the front of the hood was lining up with the front bumper but the sides were 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the front fenders; specially behind the headlights. I kept adjusting the latch but that wasn't helping. I couldn't figure out why middle of the hood was sagging until I realized that the hood had paddings to rest on the liners. I cleaned up enough to put the liner back in and tested the frunk. Now, the gap has disappeared.