I will be helping a friend install a V4 Hansshow trunk kit soon so I should be able to provide some additional comparison on the Hansshow V4 vs TeslaOffer Mk2.5 trunk kit. I've watched the Hansshow install video and was a bit surprised it requires joining bare wires together. In the video, they simply twisted the wires together and used electrical tape. My plan is solder and heat-shrink to ensure a long-lasting connection. The video made me appreciate that the TeslaOffer kit doesn't need any bare wires connected together but I will be in a better position to offer comparative comments after the install.
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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
I look forward to hearing your install experience, compare and contrast the two systems. On a side note, Tesla Offer still hasn’t posted the Mark 2.5 Install Video.
Let's hope they get that video up soon but even if you look at their v2 trunk tutorial video in combination with the video on how to connect the CANBUS, you will be able to install it - that's what I relied on and it was quite straight forward. As mentioned, no wire cutting, soldering, or even removing wires from molex connectors for reattachment was needed.
They have the wire joining step because they intentionally cut their trunk lid harness cable in half. This allows for a much easier fishing experience to just fish wire ends up to the lid, instead of connectors which are bulky. After you’ve fished the bare wires up, you then connect them to the other half of the harness cable (also bare wires of course) to put the harness cable halves back together again. You’re right that they show doing this with tape but you can also a nicer job like you suggested, with any type of connector. I used a simple crimp connector, others have used butt connectors, etc. I think soldering is unnecessary but that’s also an option.
how does the TO system deal with getting stuff up to the trunk lid? Don’t they also have fishing needed, and some connectors that wouldn’t fish easily ?
That's good to know about the bare wires. Thanks for that info as it wasn't super clear to me in the video. On the TO kit, you actually fish two small connectors which are definitely more difficult than fishing bare wires. However, with the proper cable lube, it only took about 5 minutes so time-wise the two methods are similar. I agree that crimp or butt connectors should work fine but I prefer solder/heatshrink although not absolutely necessary.
Finally helped my friend install the Hansshow (HS) v4 so here are some comparison notes on HS vs TeslaOffer (TO) Mark 2.5. At the time of writing, these are the newest versions of the trunk kits from each company. I can not to be an expert installer by any means as the TO kit was the first I've installed and the HS is now the second. These comments are based strictly on my limited experience. The other thing to be mindful of is that I do not know the ins and outs of fine-tuning these kits to ensure the absolute smoothest operation so part of the results may be improved through better fine-tuning.
OVERALL KIT & CONTENTS
One thing I noticed immediately about the HS kit is the nice glossy color instructions. TO doesn't have any. That being said, for both kits, I relied on the manufacturer's YouTube videos and really didn't need written instructions. The other thing that is great about the HS kit is that every cable has English labeling which makes it a lot easier and reduces head-scratching time. Lastly, HS includes a fish-tape which is nice. Win to HS for including fish-tape, instruction sheet, and English labeling.
TRUNK LID WIRING
Both kits require running wiring up to the trunk lid through the factory silicone tube but the execution is different. In the TO kit, I ran two sets of wires through the tube with the plastic connectors on. The connectors were small enough that they did not require removal if the individual wires out of the connectors. Once the two wire sets are in place, TO has a small module that connects to these wires plus connecting to the top latch mechanism. The HS unit is quite different; it requires running 5 bare wires through the tube plus another set for the button. The connector for the button is too big to run through the tube so the wires need to be pulled out of the connector and reconnected after the wires are run to the lid. In my case, we soldered and heat shrunk all wires to ensure the most reliable connection. The HS did not require the small module which is one less component to deal with but the TO is easier to install this part which didn't require connecting any bare wires together. For installation ease and no need for bare wire connection of wire removal from connectors, the Win goes to T.
CANBUS
Connecting the CANBUS signal is the same on both kits. You get an inline adapter that plugs into the CANBUS connection point under the center console. The adapter then has a female plug to attach a wire that goes back to the main control unit. The TO CANBUS adapter has a single female plug so it's quite obvious where to connect the control unit wire. The HS CANBUS adapter has two female plugs coming out of it and there's no indicator which one you're suppose to use. As there is no confusion where to connect the CANBUS wire (single choice), the Win goes to TO.
POWER
Both are the same here. Uses a horseshoe shape connector that goes to VCRight. Both use a short connector to the power source and a longer cable is connected to the short connector all the way to the control box in the back. The connection on the HS is a bullet connector whereas the TO is a flat blade connector. Both do the same thing and it is a TIE.
OPERATION
The speed was set to '5 beeps' for both kits. Based on these settings, the TO may have been half second behind. Linear movement between the two units was quite different. Upon opening, the HS unit made a significant pop sound with a quick jerk and then moved up in a smooth consistent speed. The first 2-3 inches of travel is very rapid before slowing to a constant steady speed. The TO unit, does not have this loud pop and moves at a consistent speed right when it releases. Overall, the opening action is much smoother on the TO unit. Closing both units starts in a smooth motion for both units. However for the last 2-3 inches before the trunk closes, the HS closes a bit harder (almost free-falling) with higher thud sound on contact. The struts on these two kits is visually different but when they are moving, they have the same sound level and move at about the same rate. Due to the initial opening or closing, the TO kit is the smoother and quieter of the two. When I installed the TO kit, I did not due any fine-tuning, it worked immediately. The HS kit required some adjustment with the closing strength which is defaulted to level 1. This was not sufficient to close the trunk so it was adjusted to level 2. HS recommends removing the spring mechanism and supplies blank filler plates. We kept these OEM spring bumpers on as the trunk was opening and closing without problem, as well as aligned properly. Removing may make this smoother but at the same time these may be there to provide support to the trunk lid so the decision was to leave them in.
As I mentioned previously, HS has two connectors for CANBUS connection. I tried both as they were not marked, and when the car is in D, the HS always allows the trunk to be opened by depressing the trunk button. I assume that HS will correct this in time through firmware but for now it makes absolutely no difference which of the two connections are used for the CANBUS signal. The TO CANBUS connection works as designed and will not allow the trunk to open when the car is in D. This is really not a huge deal but if you were in Hold mode at an intersection or parking lot, the HS kit allows the trunk to be opened whereas the TO does not.
Many have read about the animation on the screen with HS and I thought they might have gotten rid of it as this was a V4 kit, but it is still there and if you touch the screen when it is in grayed out 'opened' status, the system will not react - it must toggle to the 'open' status to function. TO does not have this animation and works immediately when you touch the button. For quietness, smoothness, functional CANBUS, and no 'animation' delay Win goes to TO.
CONCLUSION
The overall win goes to TeslaOffer. My hope is that TO uses English labelling in future and including a fish-tape would make their kit perfect. The TO kit is easier to install, quieter, smoother, and the CANBUS safety system works.
The Hansshow is a decent kit as well and to be fair we may not have it tuned properly but nonetheless I did not tune or adjust anything on the TO kit and it functions smoother and quieter. I hope that HS updates the firmware and provides more detail about which of the two CANBUS plugs to use so that is functioning as they intend it to.
OVERALL KIT & CONTENTS
One thing I noticed immediately about the HS kit is the nice glossy color instructions. TO doesn't have any. That being said, for both kits, I relied on the manufacturer's YouTube videos and really didn't need written instructions. The other thing that is great about the HS kit is that every cable has English labeling which makes it a lot easier and reduces head-scratching time. Lastly, HS includes a fish-tape which is nice. Win to HS for including fish-tape, instruction sheet, and English labeling.
TRUNK LID WIRING
Both kits require running wiring up to the trunk lid through the factory silicone tube but the execution is different. In the TO kit, I ran two sets of wires through the tube with the plastic connectors on. The connectors were small enough that they did not require removal if the individual wires out of the connectors. Once the two wire sets are in place, TO has a small module that connects to these wires plus connecting to the top latch mechanism. The HS unit is quite different; it requires running 5 bare wires through the tube plus another set for the button. The connector for the button is too big to run through the tube so the wires need to be pulled out of the connector and reconnected after the wires are run to the lid. In my case, we soldered and heat shrunk all wires to ensure the most reliable connection. The HS did not require the small module which is one less component to deal with but the TO is easier to install this part which didn't require connecting any bare wires together. For installation ease and no need for bare wire connection of wire removal from connectors, the Win goes to T.
CANBUS
Connecting the CANBUS signal is the same on both kits. You get an inline adapter that plugs into the CANBUS connection point under the center console. The adapter then has a female plug to attach a wire that goes back to the main control unit. The TO CANBUS adapter has a single female plug so it's quite obvious where to connect the control unit wire. The HS CANBUS adapter has two female plugs coming out of it and there's no indicator which one you're suppose to use. As there is no confusion where to connect the CANBUS wire (single choice), the Win goes to TO.
POWER
Both are the same here. Uses a horseshoe shape connector that goes to VCRight. Both use a short connector to the power source and a longer cable is connected to the short connector all the way to the control box in the back. The connection on the HS is a bullet connector whereas the TO is a flat blade connector. Both do the same thing and it is a TIE.
OPERATION
The speed was set to '5 beeps' for both kits. Based on these settings, the TO may have been half second behind. Linear movement between the two units was quite different. Upon opening, the HS unit made a significant pop sound with a quick jerk and then moved up in a smooth consistent speed. The first 2-3 inches of travel is very rapid before slowing to a constant steady speed. The TO unit, does not have this loud pop and moves at a consistent speed right when it releases. Overall, the opening action is much smoother on the TO unit. Closing both units starts in a smooth motion for both units. However for the last 2-3 inches before the trunk closes, the HS closes a bit harder (almost free-falling) with higher thud sound on contact. The struts on these two kits is visually different but when they are moving, they have the same sound level and move at about the same rate. Due to the initial opening or closing, the TO kit is the smoother and quieter of the two. When I installed the TO kit, I did not due any fine-tuning, it worked immediately. The HS kit required some adjustment with the closing strength which is defaulted to level 1. This was not sufficient to close the trunk so it was adjusted to level 2. HS recommends removing the spring mechanism and supplies blank filler plates. We kept these OEM spring bumpers on as the trunk was opening and closing without problem, as well as aligned properly. Removing may make this smoother but at the same time these may be there to provide support to the trunk lid so the decision was to leave them in.
As I mentioned previously, HS has two connectors for CANBUS connection. I tried both as they were not marked, and when the car is in D, the HS always allows the trunk to be opened by depressing the trunk button. I assume that HS will correct this in time through firmware but for now it makes absolutely no difference which of the two connections are used for the CANBUS signal. The TO CANBUS connection works as designed and will not allow the trunk to open when the car is in D. This is really not a huge deal but if you were in Hold mode at an intersection or parking lot, the HS kit allows the trunk to be opened whereas the TO does not.
Many have read about the animation on the screen with HS and I thought they might have gotten rid of it as this was a V4 kit, but it is still there and if you touch the screen when it is in grayed out 'opened' status, the system will not react - it must toggle to the 'open' status to function. TO does not have this animation and works immediately when you touch the button. For quietness, smoothness, functional CANBUS, and no 'animation' delay Win goes to TO.
CONCLUSION
The overall win goes to TeslaOffer. My hope is that TO uses English labelling in future and including a fish-tape would make their kit perfect. The TO kit is easier to install, quieter, smoother, and the CANBUS safety system works.
The Hansshow is a decent kit as well and to be fair we may not have it tuned properly but nonetheless I did not tune or adjust anything on the TO kit and it functions smoother and quieter. I hope that HS updates the firmware and provides more detail about which of the two CANBUS plugs to use so that is functioning as they intend it to.
EDIT: I realized I made an error on the above regarding the TO kit, I wrote that I ran two sets of wires through the tube with the plastic connectors on. It was actually one single connector that connects to the small module. From there the module has a wiring harness with all the other trunk lid connections.
Thanks for the comparison!
I can say the v4 hansshow is pretty quiet once you tune it to latch on. I have mine on 1 for strength and it's quiet.
So I have the Hansshow v4 trunk and TO v3 frunk.
I had some problems with the v4 trunk and their customer service was initially good but then it took a couple days for them to reply. The trunk was inoperable and I had to put my old latch back on for it to work. This left a sour taste in my mouth and therefore I msg'd TO and tried their v2 frunk. I like the new waterproof control box with 1 main plug in and sealed microsd slot.
The biggest downfall to the TO kit was all the wires were in chinese and not easy to know where they go unless you watch the video. It wasn't too hard but english labels would've been a lot better.
Like tlr1000 mentioned, Han has a nicely printed instruction sheet with the kit.
The Hansshow animation for when it's opened is rather annoying. You have to time it right to close it from the screen. I've also read that it can be hit or miss with the foot sensor since you have to catch it when it's at the right toggle. Hopefully this is fixed with a firmware update.
I'm tempted to try out the TO kit but not sure if it's worth the ~$75 diff after coupons.
I can say the v4 hansshow is pretty quiet once you tune it to latch on. I have mine on 1 for strength and it's quiet.
So I have the Hansshow v4 trunk and TO v3 frunk.
I had some problems with the v4 trunk and their customer service was initially good but then it took a couple days for them to reply. The trunk was inoperable and I had to put my old latch back on for it to work. This left a sour taste in my mouth and therefore I msg'd TO and tried their v2 frunk. I like the new waterproof control box with 1 main plug in and sealed microsd slot.
The biggest downfall to the TO kit was all the wires were in chinese and not easy to know where they go unless you watch the video. It wasn't too hard but english labels would've been a lot better.
Like tlr1000 mentioned, Han has a nicely printed instruction sheet with the kit.
The Hansshow animation for when it's opened is rather annoying. You have to time it right to close it from the screen. I've also read that it can be hit or miss with the foot sensor since you have to catch it when it's at the right toggle. Hopefully this is fixed with a firmware update.
I'm tempted to try out the TO kit but not sure if it's worth the ~$75 diff after coupons.
I second the motion on a great comparison! I decided to pull the trigger on the TO kit today. Also took the sage advice and got fish tape lubricant to help with the install. Now to gather some of the other tools I don’t have on hand. Hopefully you won’t mind a DM or 3 if I have a question on install
They did a really nice job. They tried really hard to also talk about the latest capabilities of both kits, beyond what they each actually have installed. I can pick quite a few holes in their video, but it's still a fantastic job and really nicely produced. Must watch for anyone wanting to try and choose.
@tlr1000 FYI I read that the HS canbus connector, with two identical plug options hanging off it, is done like that because HS sells other stuff (the soft close door kit I think) that wants to tap into the same place (so if you owned the motor trunk and the soft door kit then you'd need to use both plugs/sockets). I wouldn't really call a winner between TO and HS on this two-plugs canbus thing as this is really just a minor confusion, but HS could definitely do better by simply just saying that both are equal and you can plug into either without any reason to be confused!
What do you think about the price differential? HS can easily be had for 15% below list.. and 20% below is possible. I am not aware of TO discounts, so for me that makes HS far cheaper.
For me the biggest attraction I've seen on the TO system, is the strut/seal damage potential. The video I posted above does a nice job of showing that. I am convinced that my HS system will damage that seal unless someone thinks of something to guard against it. I'm also, though, convinced that this seal isn't actually important except aesthetically.
What do you think about the price differential? HS can easily be had for 15% below list.. and 20% below is possible. I am not aware of TO discounts, so for me that makes HS far cheaper.
For me the biggest attraction I've seen on the TO system, is the strut/seal damage potential. The video I posted above does a nice job of showing that. I am convinced that my HS system will damage that seal unless someone thinks of something to guard against it. I'm also, though, convinced that this seal isn't actually important except aesthetically.
I just purchased the TO trunk kit with a 5% off coupon with free shipping. My out the door was 569.05. Not huge by any stretch but still $29 off. Now with free shipping, who know how long it will take. For the moment, I’m patient as I got a bunch of other stuff that I have to get around to doing with my M3. Paint coatings, leather coatings, chrome deletes. Center console wraps. Light updates. One day I will get caught up. Lol
No prob. This forum is for sharing afterallI second the motion on a great comparison! I decided to pull the trigger on the TO kit today. Also took the sage advice and got fish tape lubricant to help with the install. Now to gather some of the other tools I don’t have on hand. Hopefully you won’t mind a DM or 3 if I have a question on install
Good point about the dual CANBUS plug. I believe TO also sells a soft close door kit as well but maybe HS has other future things in mind or its for the HS HUD. Anyways, for the HS install I helped on the neither CANBUS plug does anything right now.
Price is always important and HS is clearly cheaper. @wrz0170 mentioned a 5% code which is not huge but anything is better than nothing and it narrows the gap a tiny bit. Their prices seem to vary depending on which code you get. That's great if someone finds the cheapest code and not so good for those who don't. For me I see the value in the extra cost of the TO but each person really needs to do as much research on the differences and then look to find the best prices on each kit and finally decide whether a price difference is worth it.
During the HS install, I had a closer look at the seal and the area it covered and I agree that it likely doesn't matter for water as there is water management under that area. The two problems with a damaged seal is really, as you said, aesthetic (if you're picky like me) and the other may be potential wind noise is there damage to that seal.
I just got in my TO trunk kit. If anyone is wondering about delivery time from Hong Kong; holy crap it’s fast. I ordered 08/03. Shipped 08/04, delivered today 08/06. If you’re excited to get started on the project, don’t do what I did. Make sure you have all your tools before you order. . Now I have to wait because I don’t have everything. My fun begins in a couple of days. In the mean time, I will review the videos.
. Now I have to wait because I don’t have everything. My fun begins in a couple of days. In the mean time, I will review the videos.I just got in my TO trunk kit. If anyone is wondering about delivery time from Hong Kong; holy crap it’s fast. I ordered 08/03. Shipped 08/04, delivered today 08/06. If you’re excited to get started on the project, don’t do what I did. Make sure you have all your tools before you order.
I received mine in a similar time-frame as well. The TO guys are on it. Waiting a couple days for your tools/supplies to arrive is a good thing. It will give you a chance to watch the videos a few times to make sure it all sinks. It does take some time but don't rush it and keep in mind that you don't have to follow videos exactly. Often the videos present the fastest way for some install points but not the best way. Have fun!
Yep. That’s what I am thinking about the extra time to let things sink in. The one small hurdle is running the strut wires. In the TO manual it mentions the easy way; under the weather seal and then the fun way, taking the bumper partially off. Knowing my OCD, I’m gonna want the clean, “fun” way. I’m not crazy about running the strut wires under the weather seal. Unfortunately, TO hasn’t offered the video in doing the bumper route yet. So I have viewed a couple of Hanshow videos where the bumper doesn’t appear to be taken off completely. The bumper just kind of hangs. He then routes the strut wires through the holes with the blue, rubber grommet on either side. While they are competitors, strut wires are strut wires. Hopefully someone can chime in and reassure me that’s it’s relatively easy and one can do it flying solo.
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