Headlight alignment screwed up after software update.

[Bernard_S]

First night drive in a few months and the headlights are miles out of line. Pointing too high and too far right. I'm sure I read somewhere that it could be due to a software update, had so many in the last month or two who knows when it first happened.

I can adjust them using the service mode but it's a bit of guesswork. I could book in at a service centre but if there is simple reset that could fix it it would be handy to know and save everybody's time.

Any ideas ?

 

[Adopado]

First night drive in a few months and the headlights are miles out of line. Pointing too high and too far right. I'm sure I read somewhere that it could be due to a software update, had so many in the last month or two who knows when it first happened.

I can adjust them using the service mode but it's a bit of guesswork. I could book in at a service centre but if there is simple reset that could fix it it would be handy to know and save everybody's time.

Any ideas ?

Find a bit of flat ground. Auto recalibrate. Let it do its thing (no need to wait for the dark). You can tweak the positioning subsequently if it's still not right. Only as a last resort consider a service appointment.

 

[Bernard_S]

Can't find recalibrate in the manual but did the headlight alignment again in the garage again (dead flat) and it did some whirring which it didn't do the first time it a few days ago. I'll try it on the road later.

Thanks

 

[init6]

Some tips here:

Lighting up the tree tops

I have seen quite a few threads regarding the lights of the Model 3 dazzling other drivers as they are way too high. I’ve also read the comments in that some find the recalibration corrects the issue, and other comments is that the lights are aimed right but they are very bright which other...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[WannabeOwner]

I read somewhere that it could be due to a software update

The problem, as I understand it, is if the software update is applied when the car is not on level ground - it recalibrates, wrongly because of being on a slope.

However, where I live my driveway is dead flat. Software updates only ever installed on my driveway, and yet my M3 headlights went out of whack on software update more than once ... so I'm not sure that "apply update when car on flat ground" is the whole answer.

 

[meavydev]

I also do updates in a flat garage and the lights end up pointing at the sky.
Going into the service menu for the lights did an auto calibration, but this was before the software changed everything around... hopefully there's still the same option in the service menu.

 

[GlynG]

Provided you haven't adjusted either headlamp aim using the onscreen calibration feature then all you need to do is enter the calibration feature - let the headlamps dance and then exit without adjusting, your headlamps will now have returned to their default setting.
But, If you manually adjusted either headlamp then upon exit what you have set is now the default and you will need to either pop into a garage/MOT station and have the headlamps reset or you adjust them yourself.

Some updates do screw the headlights up, and I've found it makes no difference if the car is on level ground when the update is applied - my car is always in the garage overnight - so level ground, and indeed when in the garage its the only place my car will lock onto the Wi-Fi signal - so all my updates are completed when the car is level - and still updates manage to screw up the beams.

I made a bit of kit up for aiming the beams from wood baton, right height and marks for each headlamps aim plus just down the road an ideal place to be able to park the car 9.5 mtrs from a wall to do the adjusting, Its on an industrial estate so weekends are ideal to do it. You can find the instructions online using tape to achieve the marks but that's a faff - so i built the kit which simply folds out - place against the wall, reverse the 9.5mtrs and set each headlamp up. You are not too far from me (Wigston, Leicester) so If you want to pop over I will set the headlights for you.
Once they are set any future update that changes the beams can be rectified easily - enter the menu - watch the dance then exit - job done.

 

[johnmwingnut]

Mine went out of a few weeks back, after a service appointment. They did also apply an update so it could have been that.

However, something I noticed when in service mode, was a service alert re the ride height calibration sensor not being available and it affecting headlight levelling.

I’m wondering if that could be the cause?

 

[Skie]

Mine went out of a few weeks back, after a service appointment. They did also apply an update so it could have been that.

However, something I noticed when in service mode, was a service alert re the ride height calibration sensor not being available and it affecting headlight levelling.

I’m wondering if that could be the cause?

It could be something as simple as the ride height sensor getting gunked up by road crap and not moving freely, or the arm has broken loose. Not entirely certain where they are, quick google says on the rear left.

I had an Audi with one on both left wheels and the rear one broke its arm, causing the headlights to bounce up and down. Bit of gorilla tape to hold it together and it was good for a few years.

 

[GlynG]

If a car is out of warranty and one of the arms on the sensors break its usually because the shaft into the sensor is gunked up and very stiff to rotate, the sudden shock of the suspension when going over a pot hole is enough to break the plastic arm because plastic get brittle as it ages, the easiest solution is to unplug it, remove the sensor and give it a good clean and spray something like WD Dry PTFE lubricant into the rotating shaft bearings and grip the shaft with mole grips and keep working it until its easy and free to rotate - then dry it thoroughly - no external grease as this will just attract more gunk to cling to it.

The arms are pretty cheap to get hold of though a good temporary repair is to weld the parts back together - just a solder iron needed and use the tip when hot to fuse the two bits together - push the tip into the plastic like your trying to poke the iron through - just penetrate the plastic a few mm then lift the iron and do the same again a couple of mm along the break line - and continue until you've gone all the way round it - Doesn't look pretty but it's a strong repair, doesn't alter the length or shape of the arm and won't be affected by the elements when driving.

 

[johnmwingnut]

Yer, it’s on the rear left suspension. Appears intact.
It’s strange as just says not available, but, it doesn’t flag any user alerts. It’s only visible in the service mode under “service alerts”

 

[GlynG]

Yer, it’s on the rear left suspension. Appears intact.
It’s strange as just says not available, but, it doesn’t flag any user alerts. It’s only visible in the service mode under “service alerts”

Sounds like the internals of the sensor are shot - inside it's just a carbon potentiometer - like a volume control - the carbon circle has a little arm that touches the carbon - as the suspension moves up and down it causes the arm to move around the carbon. perhaps inside it's worn out and because it's only a potentiometer it won't trigger a fault alert to the car, but it is possible for a tester to establish the fault. service call I would say. Also check the electrical plug is firmly in, unplug and clean it first then push in firmly - it just could be dirt inside the connector as it reports unavailable