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HID replacement for Classic S w tech package

Just wondering what are the opinions of the forum on replacing HID bulbs with generic or eBay purchased versions.

My driver side light goes on at car start then turns off until the next 'restart' so I figure the bulb may need to be replaced. I've never replaced a HID one before but looking at the guides, send straightforward enough to get to the ballast and bulb. However, pricing varies wildly if you buy brand name ie Phillips or Osram vs some non brand name. Is there something to be concerned about here with non brand name? Do I need to factor the ballast that they may provide?

Thanks in advance
 

Doanster1

Active Member
Feb 14, 2018
1,232
662
Oregon
They worked well, in general. That is, I feel they are high quality bulbs, BUT, there’s a voltage margin issue with our cars specifically.
The bulbs worked well for months and I was happy with them, but eventually, one bulb or the other would turn off while driving. Turning the headlights on/off would fix the issue. Long-story short, the bulbs were still good (I swapped them left to right etc.). I think our cars expect a specific voltage level with prob low guard band. The Morimotos perhaps eventually just drop in voltage just enough after getting warm/hot (they have a plastic base housing vs stock being metal) that they get cutoff until you power in/off.
I ended up putting stock bulbs back in. May get Philips next, but not high on my list right now.
I still have the Morimotos if you want to try them.
 
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They worked well, in general. That is, I feel they are high quality bulbs, BUT, there’s a voltage margin issue with our cars specifically.
The bulbs worked well for months and I was happy with them, but eventually, one bulb or the other would turn off while driving. Turning the headlights on/off would fix the issue. Long-story short, the bulbs were still good (I swapped them left to right etc.). I think our cars expect a specific voltage level with prob low guard band. The Morimotos perhaps eventually just drop in voltage just enough after getting warm/hot (they have a plastic base housing vs stock being metal) that they get cutoff until you power in/off.
I ended up putting stock bulbs back in. May get Philips next, but not high on my list right now.
I still have the Morimotos if you want to try them.
Thanks for the update! I'll probably stick to stock-based upon your info. Could you provide info on what bulbs are stock (brand/model)? Thanks so much again!
 

Doanster1

Active Member
Feb 14, 2018
1,232
662
Oregon
They are std D3S. Looks like an ODM supplier vs retail brand. If you only want to do this once, I’d say pay for Osram or Philips if you want higher K color temp. Otherwise stick with stock from the SC.
 

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Just an update on this. I've heard people having Tesla quote them around 1k for replacement of the entire light. Maybe that was for a different light system?. But, I just got quoted $163.75 which is much easier to swallow and I'm just going to have them do it. It looks like replacement lights are at least 60+ bucks from rock auto. Not sure of the price if I were to buy from Tesla - was going to buy from them if they quoted me a 1k price, but I'd imagine it would be at least 60 bucks.

So, essentially I'm paying them 100 bucks to not have to buy the jack pad/worry about the leveling of the light and not have to do it.
 

Doanster1

Active Member
Feb 14, 2018
1,232
662
Oregon
Yah, LED headlights would indeed run that much or more as you can’t replace any traditional bulbs. Then again, they’re not supposed to fail in the ownership lifetime so to speak.
Time cost of money (and PITA factor) means $163 is a no brainer in your situation. Hopefully that’s for a new pair of bulbs. Never replace just one.
 
Yah, LED headlights would indeed run that much or more as you can’t replace any traditional bulbs. Then again, they’re not supposed to fail in the ownership lifetime so to speak.
Time cost of money (and PITA factor) means $163 is a no brainer in your situation. Hopefully that’s for a new pair of bulbs. Never replace just one.
Unfortunately, it is only for one. But, someone hit the other side of my car about 2 years ago -- and the entire light assembly was replaced. The tech did recommend both. But, I'm assuming that the other bulb was replaced then with the assembly. Makes sense as to why the driver side is going out. If it looks different/bad when I pick up, I'll grab another bulb and do the other side.

Why do you say always replace both - guessing because the other will fail soon if it was not replaced? What are your thoughts on the above?
 
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