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Turn on Sentry and turn off all exclusions. When Sentry is on the car does not go to sleep. When the car is awake the 12v system is powered by the DC-DC converter from the HV battery. The 12v battery is not used, only charged.Once the low 12v battery warning pops up, how long do you have till it dies?
Asking since the first available service date is more than a month from now. The existing 12v battery is 4 years old.
Turn on Sentry and turn off all exclusions ...
If your car is under warranty the replacement will be for free.
Hmm. So I see you have a 2015 car. Pretty sure you can turn on ”camp mode” before leaving the car and it will accomplish the same objective of keeping the car awake. Just turn off the HVAC.I've no sentry feature. I'm on ESA but that does not cover the 12v.
I've been getting that same low voltage message since 3/22 but my 12V battery readings (from the nosecone) ranges between 12.7V-13.7V. I've just carried on over the last 11 months/14K miles and take a reading a day before I need to drive the car. I'm not sure what's causing the warning to be triggered but the battery is about 3yr/30K miles old. Tesla SC preemptively replaced my old 12V battery when they replaced the HV contactors so I'm not familiar with what a dying 12V battery is like
Only the cost of a new battery.At this point, out of warranty, should one just proactively replace the 12V.. any downside to that?
No reason to replace something that's not broken, and no you don't lose anything when you pop the battery out, even pulling the firemans loop doesn't get rid of your settings or profiles. All that crap is stored on the MCU on non-volatile memory just like your computer at the house if you turn it off and unplug it from the wall everything is fine because its all stored on non-volatile storage (SSD, hard drive, M.2, etc.)At this point, out of warranty, should one just proactively replace the 12V.. any downside to that?
update: I guess by downside, do profiles and settings get wiped, or does the main high voltage battery maintain these items if the 12V fails or is swapped out?
Thanks for the update and info. Sounds easy enough. I guess my concern is/was that I have read other reports and user reports on other forums that indicate that in some cases, it’s often hours and not DAYS between getting the warning alert and the vehicle not being able to be used? Could be corner cases, could be user error / lying / exaggerating for sure. It WOULD seem however, that whatever battery was in these early days cars from 2017/2018 does seem to fail before I at least would expect them to. Being 4.6 years out from delivery at this point, I’m probably ok with the cost now, today vs. most likely a little bit later in time.No reason to replace something that's not broken, and no you don't lose anything when you pop the battery out, even pulling the firemans loop doesn't get rid of your settings or profiles. All that crap is stored on the MCU on non-volatile memory just like your computer at the house if you turn it off and unplug it from the wall everything is fine because its all stored on non-volatile storage (SSD, hard drive, M.2, etc.)
I've gone 25 days from when the replace the 12v warning came up till i got a chance to actually replace it. you can just buy the battery directly from tesla its $165 PN: (1083774-00-B) swapping it out takes like 10 minutes in the driveway.
I've replaced the battery 3 times that i can remember and its usually about 1.5 years after i replaced it the last time. Its likely my DC to DC converter is taking a dump and overcharging it, thus causing it to degrade faster. but since i have to pull the HV battery to replace the DC to DC converter and the fact that thing is stupid expensive I'm just rolling with it till it breaks fully.Thanks for the update and info. Sounds easy enough. I guess my concern is/was that I have read other reports and user reports on other forums that indicate that in some cases, it’s often hours and not DAYS between getting the warning alert and the vehicle not being able to be used? Could be corner cases, could be user error / lying / exaggerating for sure. It WOULD seem however, that whatever battery was in these early days cars from 2017/2018 does seem to fail before I at least would expect them to. Being 4.6 years out from delivery at this point, I’m probably ok with the cost now, today vs. most likely a little bit later in time.
Thanks for the update and info. Sounds easy enough. I guess my concern is/was that I have read other reports and user reports on other forums that indicate that in some cases, it’s often hours and not DAYS between getting the warning alert and the vehicle not being able to be used? Could be corner cases, could be user error / lying / exaggerating for sure. It WOULD seem however, that whatever battery was in these early days cars from 2017/2018 does seem to fail before I at least would expect them to. Being 4.6 years out from delivery at this point, I’m probably ok with the cost now, today vs. most likely a little bit later in time.
The alert just stays on your screen and phone.
I have v11.0, is that current enough for the 12v issues?They fixed all the 12v issues with software updates
Yea I got a push alert on my Tesla app also. Then it had a schedule service thing to push. You might not have it because you already scheduled the 12v battery replacement.By on the phone you mean on the Tesla app? My app is not showing any low 12v alert. My car's screens of course do.
If you send Tesla a chat message they will move up your service date and schedule it for roadside rather than at the service center. It only takes 5mins to replace the 12v so they do it mobile and fit it in. If you added anything additional to the service date that could be why you have such a far out date.
I've replaced the battery 3 times that i can remember and its usually about 1.5 years after i replaced it the last time. Its likely my DC to DC converter is taking a dump and overcharging it, thus causing it to degrade faster. but since i have to pull the HV battery to replace the DC to DC converter and the fact that thing is stupid expensive I'm just rolling with it till it breaks fully.