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How to tell if EAP is using brakes?

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Probably not the best idea, but you can look at the brake pedal. It drops about half an inch or so when the system actuates it. Maybe keep your foot next to it to feel if it drops could be safer. I'm not sure if you could somehow prevent the braking action if you block the pedal though, so be careful! If it's just using regen, then the pedal doesn't move.

The car on the display showing brake lights doesn't work as they can come on with a strong enough regen.

Yup. Not the safest thing, but I've done it (sliding a foot under the pedal to feel it pull down, not watching the pedal while driving.) I'm pretty sure you can't stop the brake application by being under the pedal, but if there's no space to move it might squash something.