I will give this a try and report back to see if it unveils the hidden world of Tesla batteries for me.I think the ScanMyTesla website as well as app, show the info on what cars with what harness adapters, etc.
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I will give this a try and report back to see if it unveils the hidden world of Tesla batteries for me.I think the ScanMyTesla website as well as app, show the info on what cars with what harness adapters, etc.
Yep. As expected. 44.6kWh (204mi) was the expectation and that matches exactly the 45.0kWh (206mi).Update now that I have it installed and running, you are the results that scan my Tesla showing.
Which one does the warranty use? So I guess which one does the battery health test use? Based on the optimistic degradation of 13%. I'm guessing they use the 52.5 KWH?Yep. As expected. 44.6kWh (204mi) was the expectation and that matches exactly the 45.0kWh (206mi).
Most likely your car has 205-206 miles at 100%. (May have changed slightly from the last time when you got 204 miles.)
So SMT matches exactly what was visible from the car UI.
Capacity loss 14% to 18% depending on whether you use 52.5kWh (degradation threshold) or 54.6kWh (EPA result) as the starting point.
No one knows. I don’t think anyone has hit the warranty threshold so there has been no test of this.Which one does the warranty use? So I guess which one does the battery health test use? Based on the optimistic degradation of 13%. I'm guessing they use the 52.5 KWH?
Actually the 38kWh on the screen has nothing to do with it because it is just the miles added. It’s presumably not used for the battery health check. They must check something on the 100% to 15% discharge. Maybe not - they may be directly doing the same calcs we do but seems unlikely. Anyway no one knows what battery health check means, AFAIK.But we also don’t know what exact numerator it arrived at for this 100%-15% discharge (it was 38kWh*0.955 but not enough resolution).
Right and that's my issue. They could say whatever they want and we just have to take it at face value? If we want the warranty to mean anything solid we must understand how the health check works, otherwise the fact that no one really has had to use the battery warranty might not even be a good sign.Actually the 38kWh on the screen has nothing to do with it because it is just the miles added. It’s presumably not used for the battery health check. They must check something on the 100% to 15% discharge. Maybe not - they may be directly doing the same calcs we do but seems unlikely. Anyway no one knows what battery health check means, AFAIK.
How does one do this?I see 10mV of difference in cell voltages (imbalance). I believe typical is 4mV. In other words, you need some cell balancing. This could help you claw back some range.
No, none of this matters.Right and that's my issue. They could say whatever they want and we just have to take it at face value? If we want the warranty to mean anything solid we must understand how the health check works, otherwise the fact that no one really has had to use the battery warranty might not even be a good sign.
I had to spend about 130 dollars to be able to check what Tesla should just be able to tell me in the Battery Health Check in the service menu.No, none of this matters.
If you think your battery is below the threshold, you have it checked. You don’t need some battery test buried in service mode to check it.
As usual, in order to have warranty made good, you have to demonstrate that your vehicle qualifies. This is on the customer to demonstrate - obviously you cannot rely on Tesla!!! (This is the case for any issue.) It doesn’t matter what they say. All that matters is whether your battery qualifies.
The BMS gives the answer; this is customer facing as you can see. Not sure what the purpose of the health check is (maybe it does other things, but obviously it is not needed for measuring capacity).
Yours does not qualify. It’s not even close and it seems highly unlikely it will get there in the warranty period even if you let it sit at 90% all the time - you’d have to lose 15% of your current capacity! I’m not aware of anyone who has made good on the warranty for capacity loss alone.
I am a new owner so don't have much experience but from what I understand, charge it to somewhere around 90-100%, and leave it plugged in. It will take several hours to correct the imbalance. Perhaps good to do night before a long drive.How does one do this?
No you did not! I specifically said it was not necessary to purchase that equipment.I had to spend about 130 dollars
SMT would help you with this if you want. But you won't learn much more about your battery than you already know.
The car can correct 1mv of imbalance per 24 hours. That's 24 hours where the car is asleep with HV battery disconnectedI am a new owner so don't have much experience but from what I understand, charge it to somewhere around 90-100%, and leave it plugged in. It will take several hours to correct the imbalance. Perhaps good to do night before a long drive.
You can have your vehicle sleep at high state of charge and see.How does one do this?
Tesla uses LTC6812 BMS chip which has 200mA max balancing current.The car can correct 1mv of imbalance per 24 hours. That's 24 hours where the car is asleep with HV battery disconnected
The last ~ 0.7V (3.2-2.5V) is steep.100% SOC is 4.2V OCV and 0% is 2.5V.
We can not judge if the imbalance is good or bad from one single point of SOC.How does one do this?
This seems to have happened for my car after it installed 2023.44.1 on Dec 03, 2023. That update seems to have impacted the CAC reporting . CAC has been off ever since then. I asked Amund Børsand from SMT but at the time he was waiting for that update on his car. Haven't heard anything else since. Has anybody else observed that?These CAC numbers are all off.
A SR+ pack should be 31 cells in each cell grouping.
4.8Ah new x 31 should reach ~149Ah.
After loosing 10% capacity this should also be about 10% lower.