-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
I need a model 3 roof rack, do you have any recommendations?
- Thread starter Ivan Beltran
- Start date
In case @Ivan Beltran didn’t know, the oem bars are made by Yakima. I went with Yakima ski and bike racks. Happened to find the same yakima sks lock core numbers at the local REI…so the same key works with the bars and all my attachments/locks.
An aftermarket setup is available from Yakima (it is not the same as the Tesla OEM rack that is apparently from Yakima or a related company).
(see photos at the bottom)
Differences:
- The OEM rack is probably more aerodynamic.
- The Yakima aftermarket rack crossbars are more level with each other; the OEM rack's rear crossbar is higher than the front crossbar.
- The Yakima aftermarket rack crossbars are 32" apart; the OEM rack crossbars are 28" apart.
- The OEM rack attaches to hidden mounting points under the roof glass; the Yakima aftermarket rack clamps onto the drip rails, with the towers resting on rubber pads on the non-glass part of the roof.
- The OEM rack crossbar has a T-slot; the Yakima aftermarket rack has a choice of crossbars, one with a T-slot and two without.
- The Yakima aftermarket rack crossbars stick out beyond the towers; the OEM rack crossbars do not.
- The OEM rack lists for $400. The Yakima aftermarket rack with towers, aero crossbars, clips, and lock cylinders lists for $649-699.
Most recent aftermarket accessories (bicycle carriers, boat carriers, roof boxes, etc.) should be able to attach to either base rack. Clamp-on attachment is the most common in the US, although some accessories may use the T-slot. Very old accessories may be usable only on non-aero (round Yakima or rectangular Thule) crossbars; some may be able to use adapters to mount to aero crossbars. Many accessories (as well as the actual cargo) can add considerably more aerodynamic drag than just a base rack with aero crossbars.
Last edited:
I found an aftermarket crossbar on Amazon. And looking at their installation video, the quality of the product should be good, and I want to buy a set to try.
And they seem to have the same lock style as the OEM.
%2C340&sr= 8-6
And they seem to have the same lock style as the OEM.
%2C340&sr= 8-6
That rack could be fine…but again I would recommend the OEM. If it’s build tolerance is off and you break the glass…that $200 savings will end up costing you close to 1k. IMO not worth the risk, especially with the amount of roof rack broken glass posts on the forums.
Most of the cases of broken glass is improper installation. There have been a few posts where people claim they were installed to the T and the glass still broke.…for what exact reason people haven’t really posted . BUT from what I recall, in those cases, the glass was replaced free of charge(this is where you might have an issue installing a non oem bar…can pretty much guarantee Tesla won’t fork the bill if using aftermarket bars).
Biggest key to avoid glass breakage is….Proper installation. By proper I mean, installing the J hook in the right spot and not over torquing the wing nut. Tesla even changed (lowered) the recommended installation torque at some point. I ended up installing mine just under Tesla‘s stated torque spec.…because it was already secure and had zero movement. IMO I think this has to do with differences in build tolerance…and probably why there’s still reports of broken glass with racks installed to the T.
If you haven’t read through this whole thread I linked below.….. I suggest it. I posted some pics that will give insight into what is going on when installing the oem bars. Specifically these posts I posted with pics. There isn’t much room for installation error and ill fitting j hooks/bars….in terms of preventing broken glass.
OEM TESLA roof racks Crack Glass
OEM TESLA roof racks Crack Glass
Last edited:
jrweiss98020
Tessa's Tesla
I bought the Yakima Baseline towers and Jetstream bars. They fit well, and do not rest on the glass. They're not cheap, but I would trust them more than some no-name Amazon dealer...
Hey man, we are TESERY team, which focus on complete range of Tesla accessories, and we provide OEM Tesla roof racks. The Tesery Model 3/Model Y roof rack is made of top-quality aluminum alloy material, it's lightweight and strong enough to hold those cargoes you put on it that don't fit in the trunk like bikes, skis, kayaks, tents, etc. You visit the product page through this link to learn more details: Tesla Model Y Roof Rack Aluminum Cargo Cross Bars (Set of 2) Tesla Model 3 & Model Y
If you want to learn about other Tesla accessories, visit this link: Tesla Premium Accessories Shop
Some pictures of the Tesla roof rack:
Attachments
Hey jr, I'm a newbie 3 from the East Coast, have you got a good auto shop in Edmonds to help me w/an install ???
jrweiss98020
Tessa's Tesla
I used to remove and re-install the OEM rack when I knew I wasn’t going to use it for some time.….because I didn’t want it to kill my range. After a few times it wasn’t worth it lol. While there probably is a loss, it was pretty much negligible to me….and definitely wasn’t worth the hassle.
I did an extensive 3 day test with and without. Same route, same time (driving kids to school) and averaged 3 days with and without... came out to about 3% or so more energy used... definitely under 5%... can't remember exact figures but it was something like 218kwh/mi vs 225kwh/mi give or take. Model 3 rwd lfp
That said, it definitely affects range... but not enough to worry about with my daily commute.. i figure it adds 3$ a month to my charging cost
That said, it definitely affects range... but not enough to worry about with my daily commute.. i figure it adds 3$ a month to my charging cost
Wait, a rack with nothing attached is just a roof ornament
on YouTube, range tests with skis, Thule box, etc have major range negative impacts
Not saying the rack is optional if you have to carry something, but exhaust trying to fit inside or on a back hitch box before putting things on the roof
Just be aware of rhe reality of killing a great drag coefficient
on YouTube, range tests with skis, Thule box, etc have major range negative impacts
Not saying the rack is optional if you have to carry something, but exhaust trying to fit inside or on a back hitch box before putting things on the roof
Just be aware of rhe reality of killing a great drag coefficient
Oh without a doubt. Once you actually use the rack with whatever attachments… it has a much bigger impact than JUST the bars. Even one MTB vs two on the roof makes a difference. When I go skiing and snowboarding…unless I need to have 4 passengers and carry ski/boards…I just put them inside the car instead of on the roof. I do alot of mountain biking. There’s been a bunch of posts talking about efficiency loss of putting bikes on a hitch vs the roof. From what I remember, real world there’s actually no difference, some have argued that the hitch is worse because of the impact of air flow behind the car. Add in the issues trying to supercharge with bikes on the back can be tough. I rather just put them on the roof.
Last edited:
Similar threads
