Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
The 4-year/50k mile warranty is for manufacturer's defects and wouldn't apply to cosmetic repairs if that's what you're insinuating.
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I want to buy a used S with free supercharging. Should I go Private or Tesla ?
- Thread starter ChefShawn
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rafacq
Member
Not insinuating the warranty would l apply to cosmetic repairs. Since Tesla claims the car has been repaired to meet their specifications, I would expect any accident damage, including cosmetic, would be repaired.
My 12,004 miles, used 2015 S85D (no accidents, clear CarFax) had a couple of minor cosmetic blemishes which couldn’t be seen in the photos they sent me. A paintless dent repair guy took care of those for $250.
Wonder how much does previously repaired really matter. It could be just a fender bender
Their Cosmetic Conditions specifications are REALLY broad.
"Painted Panels
- Scratches up to 1"
- Dents up to 0.5"
- Rock chips"
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
If you would expect that you would be let down as it's not a CPO car, it's a used car with a warranty on manufactured defects. Like any other used car purchase you are taking ownership of ALL cosmetic issues regardless of repair status or whatever. You could try to lean on them after the fact but know that cosmetic repairs aren't specified anywhere in the warranty terms. If you go into this transaction expecting that you will likely be let down but the outcome.
Do you all think it's worth getting a 2012 or 2013 Model S Signature Performance for less than 30k dollars, and having around 50-67k miles on it? The reason for the range is because I've been seeing some for that price and mileage here and there. The only issue is that I can't test drive them since they're far away from where I live. Another concern is the warranty. Some dealerships offer the extended warranty, and there are other 3rd parties that offer them as well. I plan to put around 25k to 30k in the 6 years of ownership, since that's the average I've put in my previous vehicles. I know there are some Model 3's(standard range plus) for sale that are a little higher in price, but I like the style of the Model S a bit more than the Model 3, and the signature performance are a lot faster than the standard range plus. I'm still debating on both though. Which ones come with the free supercharging for life, but that's not a deal breaker since I plan to charge it at my home. Just as as it has the supercharging capabilities. What are other known issues that can arise with the Model S having that many miles? Any thoughts?
'that many miles?'
there are lots of reports of folks with well over 200k miles and doing well.
the main issues are not related to miles, but issues with early builds: batterygate (software capped battery affecting range and supercharging speed), MCU failure, DCDC converter failures (expensive)... some cars have had all those issues addressed with replacement parts, and those cars at a low price are a bargain
there are lots of reports of folks with well over 200k miles and doing well.
the main issues are not related to miles, but issues with early builds: batterygate (software capped battery affecting range and supercharging speed), MCU failure, DCDC converter failures (expensive)... some cars have had all those issues addressed with replacement parts, and those cars at a low price are a bargain
Interesting... Yeah I've read about to early build Model S's having some issues, so I guess that's the main concern. Are the converters something that can be covered by extended warranties? Fifty to sixty thousand miles definitely isn't a lot, so I'm tempted.
It is just a car, with a unique drivetrain. That means all the usual non-drivetrain issues a car can have Teslas can still have.
Drivetrain wise it can just have different issues. There is no transmission, but a dead onboard charger is $2200, ICE you don't need a $300 power cord that can be damaged or fail but an EV does.
Drivetrain wise it can just have different issues. There is no transmission, but a dead onboard charger is $2200, ICE you don't need a $300 power cord that can be damaged or fail but an EV does.
Decisions...decisions...now to see if it's worth it. The plus side is that I'll have a secondary car as a backup in case anything goes wrong, but the repair costs, if any, is what has me debating. My thing is also being able to obtain a used, fast Tesla at a low cost. Yes, all Teslas are fast, but these older Signature Performance models are are really fast.
AMPd
Well-Known Member
I’m in the same boat, I’d love to pick up a signature red, but the uncertainty regarding the cost to replace or fix the battery is keeping me from pulling the trigger.
Well there is definitely some pretty good advice in this thread. For what you describe you would like to do with the car I think you'll be fine I'm currently driving an early VIN number 162 signature non-performance. It has been as reliable as any vehicle I've had thus far of the things that were non-drive train related I have replaced one window regulator the left side panoramic roof drive motor. Two door handles outside the same one twice actually. Failed windshield wiper linkage. And the dreaded failed emmc chip which killed my center screen. I have yet to have a failure that has caused the car to be undriveable and have yet to have any drive train or battery pack or charging issues, battery gate notwithstanding but that's not considered a failure of the car systems. The only other thing I might add is that your mileage estimates for how much you think you are going to drive are too low if you're like most that I know you will drive more much more because the darn thing is going to be way more fun to drive than anything you've had previously assuming that this is your first battery electric car.
I purchased the car with 44,000 mi and change on the odometer I am currently at roughly 110,000. Currently I have no warranty of any kind so I'm in uncharted water with this car whatever breaks is having to be paid for out of pocket. All of the repairs that I described above were on my own dime. We'll see steady as she goes but I wouldn't be afraid of it and would buy the car again today.
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Gash damn that's a nice Model S! Man, that's one of the ones(color wise)that got away from me. Well I wasn't ready at the time, but should be soon. The estimates were based on what I've driven my current car for, which was from 50k something, to currently having 76k miles within 5.5 years. I rarely take my car out of town as well since we take my wife's car XD. Yeah, the first time I drove a Tesla, it was a Model 3 LR AWD. From there, I knew I had to have one. I even knew it put my 5.0 Mustang(s197) to shame. That instant acceleration.... I even got my wife into wanting one after she drove it. You're putting my mind at ease to get one now. Thanks!
As @gaswalla said many of the early cars (if they've had the known issues addressed) can be a good buy IMHO! Of the items
that were replace on my car (in warranty) DC/DC Converter not withstanding the two heavy hitters
were done to my car already those being the Traction pack and the drive unit.
1. The main Battery pack "circa Nov. 2016 (before I bought it)
2. The Drive unit "2017" (before I bought it)
3. The center screen "for the bubbling issue" (before I bought it)
4. The entire Panoramic Roof upgraded to Pano roof 2.0
5. The 12V battery Sept. 2018
6 The tail lamps (water intrusion) Circa Nov. 2018
7. The Steering wheel scroll knob/s , switches (done while in to get the Pano roof replaced)
There have also been a few recalls .. I think one was steering rack/gear mounting bolts and the other
was for the Takata Air bag restraint/s (also done while in shop for the Roof replacement)
Most cars in the mileage / age range you seek will likely have had the drive unit replaced at least once
If you would like more detailed information as to my out of warranty repair costs PM me. I'd be glad to chat.
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ucmndd
Well-Known Member
I think the important thing to consider is that all the 2012 Sig’s are, or will be very quickly, past the 8 year battery and drive unit warranty.
No third party warranty company that I’m aware of offers extended warranties on these parts. Out of warranty battery failure is at minimum a $15,000 problem.
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