Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

I'm going to have to switch to aftermarket 20" wheels

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
TSW Nurburgrings with Pilot Super Sports in square configuration so I can rotate. Half the cost of Tesla's 21" option with more grip and better wear. The best part of all was a 10 lb weight reduction per corner which may not be in your best interest if you are looking for the strongest rims. I do not have a wheel destruction problem here in Florida so it was not my primary concern.
2015 P85D
 
TSW Nurburgrings with Pilot Super Sports in square configuration so I can rotate. Half the cost of Tesla's 21" option with more grip and better wear. The best part of all was a 10 lb weight reduction per corner which may not be in your best interest if you are looking for the strongest rims. I do not have a wheel destruction problem here in Florida so it was not my primary concern.
2015 P85D

I also run 20" TSWs with Mich Pilot SuperSports. All the handling with none of the fear of pot holes. I'm running 255/40 front and 285/35 rear. Aftermarket wheels require shaving down the rotor set screws, which Lola warned me about (thank you!). FWIW, traction is great. I ran a VBox-timed 0-60 time of 2.85 seconds on this setup.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 183
I also run 20" TSWs with Mich Pilot SuperSports. All the handling with none of the fear of pot holes. I'm running 255/40 front and 285/35 rear. Aftermarket wheels require shaving down the rotor set screws, which Lola warned me about (thank you!). FWIW, traction is great. I ran a VBox-timed 0-60 time of 2.85 seconds on this setup.

Dang, just when I almost talked myself out of that color... Now I'm back to that as favorite.
 
I also run 20" TSWs with Mich Pilot SuperSports. All the handling with none of the fear of pot holes. I'm running 255/40 front and 285/35 rear. Aftermarket wheels require shaving down the rotor set screws, which Lola warned me about (thank you!). FWIW, traction is great. I ran a VBox-timed 0-60 time of 2.85 seconds on this setup.


That blue works great with those wheels!!! Nice combo!
 
So the new wheels and tires (Continental ExtremeContact DWS06) pictured below) are working out great so far. No noticeable difference in acceleration or handling.

What I'm probably most surprised about is how much softer the lip at the end of my driveway is. On the 21" wheels it was a solid thud every time, now it is like any other car.

Here are the new wheels.

View attachment 112915
 
Can you tell me where you got your wheels? LOVE THEM!

I also run 20" TSWs with Mich Pilot SuperSports. All the handling with none of the fear of pot holes. I'm running 255/40 front and 285/35 rear. Aftermarket wheels require shaving down the rotor set screws, which Lola warned me about (thank you!). FWIW, traction is great. I ran a VBox-timed 0-60 time of 2.85 seconds on this setup.

Also, are the rear wheels and front wheels the same or do I need to buy different sizes? Sorry, pretty clueless when it comes to wheels and tires.

Do you run them all year long?
 
^^^ Did you just have the Tesla emblem for the wheels made out of vinyl? ^^^

Yes, from Online shop 3D wheel center caps

I ordered dark gray with a light gray old Tesla logo (no shield) in 60mm for the TSW gunmetal wheels. I had to spray the TSW centercaps to match because the sticker sits inside a bezel in the centercap that would otherwise be chrome. I used Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Gray spray paint and it is really close. Something to be aware of is that the TSWs are made for BMW, not Tesla, so there's extra work. The bolt pattern and offset are right and the fit is good, but the centercaps don't clear the hub bolts so I had to dremel some material from the centercaps, and the pockets in the wheels don't match the rotor retention screw in the hub, so I had to remove material from those screws so they don't stand proud of the hub and prevent the wheel from making complete contact with the mounting surface. A bit of extra work but worth the effort.

- - - Updated - - -

I run The Pilot SuperSport all year in Northern CA where it never drops much below 40-45 degrees (the cut-off for summer tires). If we move back out east, I'll run winter tires Nov-Feb. You could run the same 255/40-20 size on all four wheels or you could run that size on the front and 285/35-20 on the rear. I chose to run the wider rears for better traction when accelerating out of turns (we have the "Ludicrous mode" and the torque at low speeds is violent) and because they fill out the wheel wells a little better. The disadvantage of running different tires front and rear is that you can't rotate, but this has never been an issue. When the tires on an axle wear out, replace 'em.

- - - Updated - - -

I bought the wheels from Discount Tire Direct. They are called "TSW NURBURGRING in gunmetal" and cost around $400 each. The 255/40-20 tires fit on 20*9" wheels with offset of 35 mm. The 285/35-20 tires fit on a 20*10" wheel, also with offset 35 mm. Clearance in the rear with the 285s is tight, but only to the floppy fender liner. One side rubbed a bit at first but doesn't now. The fronts rub when reversing, but it doesn't seem to be an issue.

- - - Updated - - -

You can see how the 285s on 20*10" ET35 wheels fill out the rear wheel opening nicely.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5284.jpg
    IMG_5284.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 116
I also run 20" TSWs with Mich Pilot SuperSports. All the handling with none of the fear of pot holes. I'm running 255/40 front and 285/35 rear. Aftermarket wheels require shaving down the rotor set screws, which Lola warned me about (thank you!). FWIW, traction is great. I ran a VBox-timed 0-60 time of 2.85 seconds on this setup.


In all the threads that I have read about these wheels, this is the first that I recall that mentions the rotor set screw interference. I was just about to pull the trigger on these. Thank you for that information!
 
In all the threads that I have read about these wheels, this is the first that I recall that mentions the rotor set screw interference. I was just about to pull the trigger on these. Thank you for that information!

IMHO, this is an issue with the car, not the wheels. I've had more cars than I can count and I've never seen a car with rotor screws that stand proud of the hub until the Model S. It's a design defect, given that you expect the wheel mounting surface to be smooth because who knows what kind of wheels people might use. I imagine the vast majority of aftermarket wheels will contact the screws (T-Sportline and others specifically for Tesla probably put the pockets where they clear the screws), and given the too-small and too-big OEM options, a lot of people use aftermarket wheels. It's certainly possible that most people haven't noticed the issue (although LolaChampCar did, and told me). You could mount the wheels with the screws in place and I'm sure it wouldn't be off balance enough to notice, but I don't think you'd have a safe wheel/hub contact, and the lug nuts might loosen themselves up over time because of the lack of a solid fit. Lola also mentioned that putting massive force on the rotor screw could warp it over time, which I haven't experienced but it sounds like a valid concern. Luckily, I have a buddy with a belt sander, so we popped out the screws and did each screw on the sander for a bit and they are fine. Plenty of material to screw them in and out but not so much that they stick out beyond the hub surface. Has anyone checked the pockets of other popular wheels like Vossen or HRE to see if they clear the screws?

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and you're welcome!
 
Yes, from Online shop 3D wheel center caps

I ordered dark gray with a light gray old Tesla logo (no shield) in 60mm for the TSW gunmetal wheels. I had to spray the TSW centercaps to match because the sticker sits inside a bezel in the centercap that would otherwise be chrome. I used Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Gray spray paint and it is really close. Something to be aware of is that the TSWs are made for BMW, not Tesla, so there's extra work. The bolt pattern and offset are right and the fit is good, but the centercaps don't clear the hub bolts so I had to dremel some material from the centercaps, and the pockets in the wheels don't match the rotor retention screw in the hub, so I had to remove material from those screws so they don't stand proud of the hub and prevent the wheel from making complete contact with the mounting surface. A bit of extra work but worth the effort.

- - - Updated - - -

I run The Pilot SuperSport all year in Northern CA where it never drops much below 40-45 degrees (the cut-off for summer tires). If we move back out east, I'll run winter tires Nov-Feb. You could run the same 255/40-20 size on all four wheels or you could run that size on the front and 285/35-20 on the rear. I chose to run the wider rears for better traction when accelerating out of turns (we have the "Ludicrous mode" and the torque at low speeds is violent) and because they fill out the wheel wells a little better. The disadvantage of running different tires front and rear is that you can't rotate, but this has never been an issue. When the tires on an axle wear out, replace 'em.

- - - Updated - - -

I bought the wheels from Discount Tire Direct. They are called "TSW NURBURGRING in gunmetal" and cost around $400 each. The 255/40-20 tires fit on 20*9" wheels with offset of 35 mm. The 285/35-20 tires fit on a 20*10" wheel, also with offset 35 mm. Clearance in the rear with the 285s is tight, but only to the floppy fender liner. One side rubbed a bit at first but doesn't now. The fronts rub when reversing, but it doesn't seem to be an issue.

- - - Updated - - -

You can see how the 285s on 20*10" ET35 wheels fill out the rear wheel opening nicely.

Thanks for the details. Would a good tire shop be able to make these small modification you had to make for me? I'm pretty sure I don't have the skills to do it myself haha. They look awesome. One question, you say they rub when in reverse? Is it really noticeable in feel and sound?

I would probably get all 4 wheels and tires the same as I am not getting a Performance version. I'm in Utah as well so may have to consider an all season tire.

Thanks for the info! Much appreciated.
 
@kirk, please report back on energy use change with the Conti DWS06. Thx!

I'm not a good source of information on this since I don't have any sort of consistent driving experience. Most of my driving is local with ludicrous launches whenever possible.

However I did just go on a 200-miles road trip largely on freeways doing 65-80mph and was able to get under rated energy usage for the portions where I was able to just cruise (on AP). So I feel like that's better than before.
 
I'm going to have to switch to aftermarket 20" wheels

I'm not a good source of information on this since I don't have any sort of consistent driving experience. Most of my driving is local with ludicrous launches whenever possible.

However I did just go on a 200-miles road trip largely on freeways doing 65-80mph and was able to get under rated energy usage for the portions where I was able to just cruise (on AP). So I feel like that's better than before.

Thanks, I have similar driving patterns [emoji12]. That's useful info.
 
Thanks for the details. Would a good tire shop be able to make these small modification you had to make for me? I'm pretty sure I don't have the skills to do it myself haha. They look awesome. One question, you say they rub when in reverse? Is it really noticeable in feel and sound?

I would probably get all 4 wheels and tires the same as I am not getting a Performance version. I'm in Utah as well so may have to consider an all season tire.

Thanks for the info! Much appreciated.

I'd go to a local garage that works on high-end vehicles. Your average Discount Tire type place is staffed with unskilled kids and they wouldn't have a belt sander. The rubbing is when I turn the steering wheel at a certain angle and reverse, and yes, it does make a noise. If I ever get around to it, I'll borrow a heat gun (sort of a high-amp hair dryer for car guys) and push the flexible wheel well liner out of the way to shut it up. But I only hear it in my driveway and it's not a functional issue, so I haven't bothered yet. If you get 245/40-20s, the rubbing will be much less because of the slightly smaller diameter and width. 245/40-20 is almost identical to the stock size in terms of tread width and diameter.