The electrician that made this recommendation was one of the two listed by Tesla...so there wasn't much mystery there, unfortunately.
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The electrician that made this recommendation was one of the two listed by Tesla...so there wasn't much mystery there, unfortunately.
Oregon does require a permit. The contractor that gave the "flat fee" didn't mention it, but the other one listed it as a separate line item.
Our panels are in a utility room where the furnace and water heaters live. The good news is that there is a common wall between this room and the garage back wall, so they would have to come through that wall and then run conduit across the ceiling and then to the front of the garage. FWIW, the other "non-Tesla" electrician quoted about $1300 for the job, not including permit. Seems a bit pricey to me based upon what others have said, but there is the extra complication of having to go through the wall and all...
I had 4 quotes done for my 14-50 install on my 2011 built home with 200amp service. The first two were Tesla referred and their quotes were ridiculous ($1,500+). The second two were reasonable when given specs of 14-50 outlet, 50 amp square D breaker, conduit for my case, and continuous 40 amp load using 6 gauge copper. These quotes were in the $300-500 range. At the end of the day I pulled the permit and did it myself due to availability of reasonably priced quality contractors.
I fear the Tesla authorized folks apply a markup because they can. Just like the same oil filter for a Lexus RX350 is half the price at the Toyota dealership - because they can.
Kay Kay
Member
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
dhrivnak
Active Member
My BS antenna are way up on this one. I have been charging EVs for 9 years now with a "standard" panel with NO issues whatsoever.
I'd recommend getting another contractor. While I'm not an electrician, I've personally installed several of these over the years and never had any issues with charging. Take what you save by not installing a new panel and put it towards an accessory for your new car, or give it to charity, but please don't feed the gougers of the world; it only encourages them.
theslimshadyist
Active Member
Ovens often hook up to a 14-50. The bigger ones can run 40A for quite a long time at a run. The panel fingers are rated for the largest breaker size the panel can take.
However if you have a Homeline panel those are cheap-cheap-cheap. They will still work fine. I could also see an electrician being antsy about putting a big sustained load on one.
However if you have a Homeline panel those are cheap-cheap-cheap. They will still work fine. I could also see an electrician being antsy about putting a big sustained load on one.
brucet999
Active Member
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
thecloud
As rhythm raced inside, the ship came alive
Serious question: do you really need to run conduit to the front of the garage? It's probably quite a bit cheaper to not do that, and just install the outlet in the back wall of the garage.
I have my 14-50 installed on the back wall of the garage. The UMC easily reaches the charge port in either orientation, but I found that it's actually easier to back my Model S into the garage, because the side mirrors and backup camera make it much easier to see and avoid obstacles than coming in front-first.
You make a fair point. I've always parked the cars in the garage nose first. Maybe because my driveway is a short but slightly steep hill. That probably isn't a showstopper though.
thecloud
As rhythm raced inside, the ship came alive
Even if you continue to park nose first, the Mobile Connector cable should be long enough to reach the charge port, assuming the outlet is not located too far left or right from the line defined by the driver's side of your car. The MC cable is 20 feet long while the Model S is 16 feet long. Some people have gotten pretty creative with suspending the UMC from the ceiling so the cable doesn't run along the floor.
rolson1011
2016 P90DL, Model 3 on reservation
Honestly call another electrician and say you want a 14-50 outlet for an "Arc Welder". They may think you are in the trades and give you an at cost installation. $1800 is ludicrous and he's just padding the *sugar* out of your quote to get extra money. $300-500 is more realistic with minimal conduit and in wall work if they are charging a $125/hr labor rate. The parts are cheap.
I DIY because I'm an Electrical Engineer and know how to do it. I simply got a permit for $108 from the county, bought a square D 50A breaker, Leviton external mount 14-50 box, and about 3' of #6 4 wire Romex, ran it out the panel straight down to the plug, passed code with flying colors. And the parts were approx $40
I DIY because I'm an Electrical Engineer and know how to do it. I simply got a permit for $108 from the county, bought a square D 50A breaker, Leviton external mount 14-50 box, and about 3' of #6 4 wire Romex, ran it out the panel straight down to the plug, passed code with flying colors. And the parts were approx $40
brucet999
Active Member
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
You mean the job would take only 2.4 seconds?
Actually, the quote is 2.4 times too high!
I paid $750 to get mine installed on Saturday including a 40ft underground run for a new circuit.
My advice - have the outlet installed at 2ft above the ground. I put mine at 3ft because it is easier to reach. But now I realize that it was a mistake because it's the height of the cord, not the outlet, that matters and now I don't have a great place to put a cord management solution on the same stud.
My advice - have the outlet installed at 2ft above the ground. I put mine at 3ft because it is easier to reach. But now I realize that it was a mistake because it's the height of the cord, not the outlet, that matters and now I don't have a great place to put a cord management solution on the same stud.
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