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Is this a 10-30 outlet?
- Thread starter Bizzy511
- Start date
There is no new mobile connector.
The UMC is the same one that they have been selling since 2018, and it has MANY different plug adapters. That other product called the "Corded Mobile Connector" is a different product--even older--and does have just a 14-50 plug on it. So no, there's not really any compelling reason to tear out and redo the wire to go up to a 50A circuit.
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MLXXXp
Member
No, but in the US and Canada the latest mobile connector now gives the option to have the 14-50 adapter included (along with the 5-15 adapter) at no additional cost. (See the select style drop down.)
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Honestly I have no clue how old it is. A lot of this is new to me, so I'm learning as I'm going.
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Thank you for the great information. I'll be as safe as possible and will monitor everything as much as I can. My main concern is safety.@Bizzy511 On doing some more online research on Pushmatic breakers, I've found some interesting (read: important and possibly dangerous) information about them:
Quote: "However some field reports include a particularly dangerous failure: the breaker may remain ON internally while appearing to have been turned OFF."Pushmatic Bulldog & ITE Pushmatic Circuit Breakers & Electrical Panel Hazards & Failure Reports
Pushmatic Bulldog Circuit Breaker & Electrical Panel Possible Safety & Operating Concernsinspectapedia.com
Quote: "Also, the breakers use only a thermal breaker design, while modern breakers have both a thermal and magnetic trip mechanism. And there’s more: if these old breakers are not “exercised” occasionally, they became stiff and difficult to trip or reset."
Quote: "The electric demands of today often exceed the design capacity of a Pushmatic panel. Because the parts that are sold as “Pushmatic compatible” aren’t tested or approved for use with these panels, it’s not possible to safely add new circuits to a Pushmatic electrical panel."
It looks like you have an obsolete panel and breakers that you may not be able to find reliable replacements for. I know it would be expensive to replace (upgrade) your entire panel to something modern but please be aware of the risks I've highlighted above. Most importantly, be sure that the electricity is off when the breaker says it's "Off". You can to that by measuring the voltage on the wire attached to the breaker with respect to neutral. Better to be safe than sorry.
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You could theoretically use the conduit itself as the ground, but I'm not sure of all the rules surrounding that. Alternatively since he has conduit, it might not be that hard to just pull a ground through.When you put in your new outlet, do yourself a favor and mount it with the ground/neutral wire on top like in the picture below. It's a shame that Tesla still doesn't have an adapter for 6-30. It would make a lot of sense, otherwise, for you to substitute that 10-30 with a 6-30, Same three wires, but the 6-30 is hot-hot-ground rather than hot-hot-neutral. If there is a separate ground wire in the outlet box (4 wires instead of 3...I don't see one in your photo), I would encourage you to do a 14-30 instead, but there probably isn't.
Practically speaking it won't really matter since this appears to be a a main panel rather than a subpanel. Electrical path is pretty much the same regardless.
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As long as it's appropriately sized wiring, an extension is okay. This should be okay: NEMA 10-30 dryer extension cord, 10 ft. – EVSE Adapters
The car is very usable with 120v charging, but if I had the option of 240v, I'd go for 240v. Alternatively if you have a dedicated 120v outlet, you can swap that out for a 240v with minimal work. It just won't be able to supply as much power as the 10-30 you have.
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Man this forum is great. Lots of helpful advice here. Thank you all so much. The wait begins.
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RayK
Active Member
Extension cords are generally not recommended when charging the car. The main reasoning is that you are moving the thermal sensor that is built inside the head of the NEMA adapter away from the socket, since it's now at the end of the extension cord instead of the outlet. Note that you probably will not be in any real danger but you are in a sense, circumnavigating the safety aspect of the electrical connection that Tesla has designed. If you are going to be installing a brand new 10-30 outlet and don't intend on unplugging the mobile connector every time you use it, then you will probably be okay. I still would check all of the connections if you do use the extension cord. By that I mean feel the plugs and outlets to see if they get warm while being used.
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If OP upgrades the entire panel, then yes, I'd just run new wiring, and probably run big enough wiring for at least 48-50A charging, even though this particular car can't charge with that much current. However if the goal is to reuse existing wiring, the 10-30 outlet should be fine. Although now it's looking like the outlet might not be anywhere near the spot where the car parks so maybe it's better to just run new wiring anyway.You might want to opt for a NMEA 14-50 outlet since that is what the new Mobile Connector mates with. While doing that if the wire size permits you could go to a 50 amp breaker to allow 40 amp charging. I installed a Wall Connector with a 50 amp breaker but my car M3 SR+ only allows 32 amp charging. But maybe a LR 3 or Y in the future.
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I plan to do that. I'll check the outlet and cables for heat. Should it be completely cool, or is there a normal amount of heat? I won't be removing the cord at all. Once plugged in, it will stay there.
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Warm to the touch is fine, but it shouldn't make you reflexively pull back.
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Unfortunately, I cannot afford to run new wire right now. From what I've read, it can cost thousands. I live in socal, and there are a bunch of chargers near me if needed. My main concern is I don't want to start a fire. I am willing to do a mix of 120v charging along with supercharging if the 10-30 is unsafe.
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RayK
Active Member
If it were me, and I had that electric panel with those Pushmatic breakers, I'd reset-set-reset-set all of the breakers to make sure that none of them are stuck, regardless if they are being used with the 10-30 outlet. Reading up on them I'd be very wary about large, continuous currents being drawn. But that's just me.
My panel was upgraded several years ago when the feed from the street burned out (buried aluminum wire turned to powder). I still have not installed my own home charging setup but am planning on hooking up a Gen2 Wall Connector, along with a transfer switch to a 14-50 outlet that could be used as a backup if/when the WC has a problem.
My panel was upgraded several years ago when the feed from the street burned out (buried aluminum wire turned to powder). I still have not installed my own home charging setup but am planning on hooking up a Gen2 Wall Connector, along with a transfer switch to a 14-50 outlet that could be used as a backup if/when the WC has a problem.
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Note the Tesla Wall Connector is now back up to 24' cord (had been reduced to 20' for a few years), just in case that extra 4' is helpful. It looks like you have open studs around the outlet, if you could possibly extend that outlet 6' in the appropriate direction (and where 10' would not do).
While the Wall Connector is $200 more than the Mobile Connector, you'd not need a new 10-30 outlet (high quality one >$50), nor the 10-30 mobile adapter ($45), nor 10' extension cord ($75+), rather you'd be connecting the extended wires directly into the Wall Connector. You'd of course need additional wiring, conduit, and other parts to extend the wires 6', if that's even an option for you....
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Well the cheap and easy way would be to replace that outlet with a junction box and run a little extra wire in conduit (or even MC cable to make it really easy) to where you want it. And wire nut the new and old wires together in the junction box. If it's really only 10 feet away, you're talking about $50 or less in materials.
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I highly doubt it would be "thousands" to run new wiring. Especially if the inside of your garage has all of the wires exposed. You just have to run the wires up above the beams and then back down. If the electricians have to run wires from the other side of the house then that's when I'd expect costs in the thousands.
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