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Nema 14-50 or Nema 14-30 dryer outlet

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Yeah, that’s the safe way to do it. I was curious if it pulls any current when leaving Tesla charger plugged into the splitter even if it’s not charging.
I think if it pulls any current (whilst not actually charging) it will be minimal if you do not have the climate control on. Preconditioning might draw more current than just a minimal amount. Therefore you should be able to use a simple splitter and leave everything plugged in *if you don't charge or precondition whilst running the dryer*. No one in my household would bother to check if the car is charging when running the dryer, but could be mostly controlled by only charging after midnight.

Running the extension cord through the wall is also a code violation.

Installing a 240 volt outlet, or better yet a Tesla Wall Connector, is best. Even a 15 or 20 amp 240 volt circuit to an outlet or wall connector will give most people adequate charging.

Some people with a dedicated 120 volt circuit just for the garage have been know to convert such circuits to 15 or 20 amp 240 volt circuits (NEMA 6-15 with #14 wire, 6-20 with #12 wire or better yet a wall connector set for 15 or 20 amps), but this is complicated if the garage door motor and/or lights is/are on the same circuit.

If you do this you need to be damn sure that there are no other receptacles on that circuit, lest you plug something in and ruin it when it gets hit with 240 volts. But if there are one or two other receptacles, and you can get by without them, you could remove them and splice the wires through and put a blank cover over the box. Better label it "CAUTION 240 VOLT CIRCUIT" if you do that.

You better be sure such a circuit is not a multi-wire branch circuit (using a shared neutral with another circuit). And it is very possible when opening an electrical box there will be a bunch of other wires for other circuits in it and it could be very confusing to figure it all out. If you do not know what all this means, you should not attempt this without the involvement of a real electrician.
 
I don't mean to come off as harsh, but for your safety, please hire an electrician

An electrician should be making the same suggestions as I am and the professional install costs will be minimal for simple plug changes. Using a NEMA 5-20 outlet is completely to code when installed with the required 12-2 wire and 20amp breaker. Ditto for a NEMA 6-20. Obviously the circuit loads have to be identified and accounted for!
 
Yeah, that’s the safe way to do it. I was curious if it pulls any current when leaving Tesla charger plugged into the splitter even if it’s not charging.
It does, but only to run the led lights and circuit board, so minimal. It doesn't actually pull major current until the charge session starts (or if you precondition as others mentioned).

If you want to stick to the current setup, the NeoCharge is a UL listed device for splitting the dryer with EV charging:

To bring the wall passthrough to code (or at least closer), you can install a L14-30 socket on one side and a 14-30 outlet on the garage side: Amazon.com
This will create a passthrough connection that doesn't compromise the wall in a way that the code disallows, as both sides would have a permanent inlet/outlet installed.
 
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Apparently the stupid splitter switch broke. I guess they are not meant for daily use especially by wifey and kids. I don’t know what happened now one of the positions doesn’t have any supply. so I am back to Square one. Have to manually unplug/switch between dryer and Tesla mode to charge. I could buy a different type of splitter adapter online. But there are so many mixed reviews about it that after a year or so it breaks based on reviews. So at this point, I don’t know if it’s worth going through all the hassle or just bite the bullet and get an electrician to install a new outlet for me. Because if I have to spend another $200-$300 for an adapter, which goes bad sometime moving forward, I will end up installing an outlet anyways. So far all the quotes start at $1600 all the way to $1850. I need atleast 65ft wire pulled through a kinda fully finished basement the wire can be pulled through the mechanical room exposed area. They are quoting me 4 to 8 hours of labor. Fml
Did you contact the seller? If they won't replace it they should at least hear that what they are selling is failing.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Yes I am definitely going with an electrician as I don’t want to mess around with any of the wiring. I received another estimate today anywhere from $1600 -$2500. These guys just randomly pull out numbers from the air. The distance is around 65 feet based on one technician but this guy said the wire come in rolls of 125 feet so he would say at least hundred feet just to make sure he has enough length to cover since it’s finish basement and depends on which way we end up pulling the wire.

A Second guy ‘master electrician’ quoted me $1800 for 80ft length to be safe. He seems really desperate to get the job and when I said that’s real high, he was willing to drop down to $1650 and further down to $1500. He also said he will be able to get me a $700 rebate from some website since the state of Maryland offers rebate for master technicians who does the work because they had to take some form of special training or something. I don’t know if it’s true or not, again I don’t want to count on any government rebates because that is a hassle most of the time with a lot of associated criterias. Regardless, this guy is so far the lowest quoted number at $1500. I have three more appointments next week and will decide from there.

This was his message.

‘And plus you got to remember that you are going to be getting a $700 rebate that's for sure no questions asked about that one then you get a tax credit too for the past 2 months that's all I've been doing is installing car chargers why because Master electricians that went to that course for coding on car chargers are the only ones that have access to this website I'm talking to you about cuz we have to give you access to it to our customers it's a gift that was given from the state of Maryland to mass electricians for their customers just let me know if you still want to go through this or not even with the low price I just gave you and if not I understand and I appreciate you very much now remember we do take all type of payments so we take credit cards we take checks we take cash we take whatever and I appreciate you thank you so much.

We are getting 80 ft of wire at $7.49 per foot
Then the 50 amp double pole breaker @ $53
Then the NEMA 14/50 @$25
and a surge protector for the car charger that by code has to be in the panel $140 the rest is labor’

Never heard about the search protector requirement until now,maybe that’s just a state of Maryland thing?
 
We are getting 80 ft of wire at $7.49 per foot
Then the 50 amp double pole breaker @ $53
Then the NEMA 14/50 @$25
and a surge protector for the car charger that by code has to be in the panel $140 the rest is labor’

Never heard about the search protector requirement until now,maybe that’s just a state of Maryland thing?

Maryland (not sure about Baltimore) follows the 2020 NEC. As you can see here, a GFI breaker is required. That $53 for a 2-pole breaker quote is not GFI, and it should make you wonder about that electrician's competency, and perhaps his honesty since a master electrician who really did review the topic and was installing them left and right would know how to install a 14-50r branch circuit for an EVSE correctly.

A (marked up) $25 14-50 receptacle is the big box store garbage. Get a Bryant, or splurge for a Hubbell. I personally am not impressed by electricians who install 14-50r garbage. Care to wager that they also don't follow torque specs ?

The big box stores sell 125' of 6/3 Romex for $499

Surge Suppressors (SS) are now required for new panel installations. I'm not certain if a new branch circuit invokes the requirement but having one is a good idea. You might want to save $100 and buy one yourself and stick it in. No harder than putting in a breaker. For extra safety, take these steps:
  1. Turn off (open) all branch circuit breakers
  2. Turn off (open) main breaker
  3. Pop in SS breaker (be sure to buy the one matched to your panel manufacturer
  4. Turn on (close) main breaker
  5. Turn on (close) branch circuit breakers
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Yes I am definitely going with an electrician as I don’t want to mess around with any of the wiring. I received another estimate today anywhere from $1600 -$2500. These guys just randomly pull out numbers from the air. The distance is around 65 feet based on one technician but this guy said the wire come in rolls of 125 feet so he would say at least hundred feet just to make sure he has enough length to cover since it’s finish basement and depends on which way we end up pulling the wire.

A Second guy ‘master electrician’ quoted me $1800 for 80ft length to be safe. He seems really desperate to get the job and when I said that’s real high, he was willing to drop down to $1650 and further down to $1500. He also said he will be able to get me a $700 rebate from some website since the state of Maryland offers rebate for master technicians who does the work because they had to take some form of special training or something. I don’t know if it’s true or not, again I don’t want to count on any government rebates because that is a hassle most of the time with a lot of associated criterias. Regardless, this guy is so far the lowest quoted number at $1500. I have three more appointments next week and will decide from there.

This was his message.

‘And plus you got to remember that you are going to be getting a $700 rebate that's for sure no questions asked about that one then you get a tax credit too for the past 2 months that's all I've been doing is installing car chargers why because Master electricians that went to that course for coding on car chargers are the only ones that have access to this website I'm talking to you about cuz we have to give you access to it to our customers it's a gift that was given from the state of Maryland to mass electricians for their customers just let me know if you still want to go through this or not even with the low price I just gave you and if not I understand and I appreciate you very much now remember we do take all type of payments so we take credit cards we take checks we take cash we take whatever and I appreciate you thank you so much.

We are getting 80 ft of wire at $7.49 per foot
Then the 50 amp double pole breaker @ $53
Then the NEMA 14/50 @$25
and a surge protector for the car charger that by code has to be in the panel $140 the rest is labor’

Never heard about the search protector requirement until now,maybe that’s just a state of Maryland thing?
Somehow I feel this guy is not going to pull a permit. I say that since he is not going to install a GFCI breaker, because a GFCI breaker, required since the 2017 NEC, costs more than $53, and there is the permit fee which was not listed in the quote.

And don't let him install a $25 NEMA 14-50. He should know better.

You can get a tax credit for EVSE, and its installation. Not sure about just installing a receptacle.

 
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Do yourself a favor and stop trying to nickel and dime this install. It's important for safety reasons that this is done right. Besides, you've already wasted money and time on a solution that was not code compliant, and didn't even work.

Find the electrician that seems the most professional, and pay him to do a good job. Doesn't mean you have to take the most expensive quote, but if a quote isn't going to pull a permit or gives off any kind of bad vibe, drop it from consideration.
 
"And plus you got to remember that you are going to be getting a $700 rebate that's for sure ..."

Not anytime soon:

The Maryland Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) Rebate Program is out of money until at least July 2024; it covers 50% of the cost and installation for EVSE up to $700.

 
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"And plus you got to remember that you are going to be getting a $700 rebate that's for sure ..."

Not anytime soon:

The Maryland Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) Rebate Program is out of money until at least July 2024; it covers 50% of the cost and installation for EVSE up to $700.

Yeah, I wasn’t counting on the rebate program most of the time it’s just a hassle
 
Ok so I got another quote from an electrician this morning. He wanted to pull the permit and install GFI as per the code. But the funny thing was when I asked for an estimate he tried to sneak in his annual membership maintenance safety protection plan as part of the estimate for $150.

I specifically told him I had a $1500 quote from another electrician and give me their best rate. It was $1850 + $150 for the membership/ maintenance plan which was already included in the estimate. Why the hell would you force your clients to sign up for a membership plan for annual safety inspection? He gave me three different options to install, with and without surge protector. All of them includes the membership fee inbuilt as well.
I have two separate breaker panels and he recommended installing surge protector on both of them. He didn’t verbally disclosed the membership amount but I saw it once he sent over the email estimate. Lol

I am waiting on a second estimate and a third guy stopping by this afternoon. And based on the Maryland state laws, I need to pull a permit for legality/insurance reasons as well as future sale of the property. So most likely the budget gona be 2k+ for sure.
 
Why the hell would you force your clients to sign up for a membership plan for annual safety inspection?
Recurring revenue!

If you do not want to spend $2,000 for this, have you exhausted the possibility of repurposing a circuit that feeds the garage into a 240 volt circuit? Sometimes doable and sometimes not. More often a handyman or DIY (where the person knows what he or she is doing) job since electricians might not want to fool with doing this.

Then the dryer is always there too. Splitter or Dryer Buddy, etc. Been discussed over and over again.

No question having a dedicated 50 or 60 amp circuit is the best, but there have been situations where it is very expensive to do that (much more expensive than $2,000 such as when an entire service and panel must be upgraded) and many people do get very satisfactory charging with a 20 or even a 15 amp 240 volt circuit. Tesla Wall Connector can be configured for 15 or 20 amp 240 volt circuits.

Do let us all know what you decide to do and good luck!
 
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Recurring revenue!

If you do not want to spend $2,000 for this, have you exhausted the possibility of repurposing a circuit that feeds the garage into a 240 volt circuit? Sometimes doable and sometimes not. More often a handyman or DIY (where the person knows what he or she is doing) job since electricians might not want to fool with doing this.

Then the dryer is always there too. Splitter or Dryer Buddy, etc. Been discussed over and over again.

No question having a dedicated 50 or 60 amp circuit is the best, but there have been situations where it is very expensive to do that (much more expensive than $2,000 such as when an entire service and panel must be upgraded) and many people do get very satisfactory charging with a 20 or even a 15 amp 240 volt circuit. Tesla Wall Connector can be configured for 15 or 20 amp 240 volt circuits.

Do let us all know what you decide to do and good luck!
Well, if that's what it takes to get the job done (2k), I don't mind paying it, but I get different responses from each electrician. Another guy stopped by yesterday afternoon, he didn't mention GFI, permit or surge protector. I do know the code requires GFI and permit. He said it will add to the cost but can be done if I want to. So sounds like not everyone follows the code. So far I received 6 quotes and all have different suggestions and rates. Only two recommended permits. Even the reputable ones said permit is just money grab by the govt. But again, once they finish the project and get paid, its not their problem anymore. lol

And I did see a column that asks 'if any repair/custom electrical work have been done and if yes, all required permit was pulled?' when we purchased our home and in the paperwork submitted by the seller. So moving forward, it's gona come back and bite me if I don't get the permit I guess during a future transaction. That would be the main reason to get a permit and for insurance claims purposes just in case.

GFI is supposed to be a good thing, but read so many people complaining about it tripping the circuit unnecessarily and being a total hassle.
How about Surge protector? Is it required or recommended? We are following NEC 2017, and I don't think its required yet?

I just bought a RVMate splitter from Amazon as a temp solution until I install the nema 14-50 outlet. It doesnt have a swtich and hence kinda risky, all it takes is one accidental overloading especially with multiple people( some totally lazy and irresponsible) in the house.lol

I am totally happy with the 24A, 24 miles/hr charging speed using the dryer outlet as I have M3 standard. Fully charges overnight and hence the 14-50 doesnt really makes much difference other than the convenience factor.

I dont want to buy another active/passive splitter like DryerBuddy or similar unit as I read mixed reviews about it. Failing after 9 months of successfull use and now you are back to square one after spending $300+ already. Luckily I bought my splitter unit from HD and they have 90 days return poilicy unlike Amazon or any online seller. So I got my money back on returning it last week, not gona make the same mistake again.

Still wating on 2 more estimates from electrciians who suggested using permits. Most likely will pick one of them. I have another one scheduled for tomorrow. Will update soon.

Updated estimate :
  • Installation of 50A 2 pole GFCI Breaker Switch for electric charger in the Main Panel.
  • Run 6/3 Romex wire up to 100 feet from the Breaker Switch in the Main Panel to the garage where the new EV charger will be installed.
  • Miscellaneous, all necessary wiring connectors, screws, anchors, straps, fasteners, tie-downs, nuts, bolts, etc.
  • Cut and Patch drywall in all necessary areas for access to run the wire. *We patch it smooth, but we do not paint.*
  • Installation of new surge arrestor.
  • Installation of the new EV charger at the newly installed Receptacle.
  • (*EV charger price is not included in total price*)
  • Permit price is included in total price.
  • Installation of a Junction box, and cover.

Total: $2,000 Installed with permit. All other miscellaneous parts, materials, and labor included.

I received $1625 quote from another reputable guy but with no permit GFCI or surge protector. I guess $400 extra to make it code complaint reasonable?
 
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GFI is supposed to be a good thing, but read so many people complaining about it tripping the circuit unnecessarily and being a total hassle.
How about Surge protector? Is it required or recommended? We are following NEC 2017, and I don't think its required yet?
My NEMA 14-50 install, with a GFCI, was 2.5 years ago. I use the Tesla mobile connector. I've not had one problem yet.
 
Well, if that's what it takes to get the job done (2k), I don't mind paying it, but I get different responses from each electrician. Another guy stopped by yesterday afternoon, he didn't mention GFI, permit or surge protector. I do know the code requires GFI and permit. He said it will add to the cost but can be done if I want to. So sounds like not everyone follows the code. So far I received 6 quotes and all have different suggestions and rates. Only two recommended permits. Even the reputable ones said permit is just money grab by the govt. But again, once they finish the project and get paid, its not their problem anymore. lol

And I did see a column that asks 'if any repair/custom electrical work have been done and if yes, all required permit was pulled?' when we purchased our home and in the paperwork submitted by the seller. So moving forward, it's gona come back and bite me if I don't get the permit I guess during a future transaction. That would be the main reason to get a permit and for insurance claims purposes just in case.

GFI is supposed to be a good thing, but read so many people complaining about it tripping the circuit unnecessarily and being a total hassle.
How about Surge protector? Is it required or recommended? We are following NEC 2017, and I don't think its required yet?

I just bought a RVMate splitter from Amazon as a temp solution until I install the nema 14-50 outlet. It doesnt have a swtich and hence kinda risky, all it takes is one accidental overloading especially with multiple people( some totally lazy and irresponsible) in the house.lol

I am totally happy with the 24A, 24 miles/hr charging speed using the dryer outlet as I have M3 standard. Fully charges overnight and hence the 14-50 doesnt really makes much difference other than the convenience factor.

I dont want to buy another active/passive splitter like DryerBuddy or similar unit as I read mixed reviews about it. Failing after 9 months of successfull use and now you are back to square one after spending $300+ already. Luckily I bought my splitter unit from HD and they have 90 days return poilicy unlike Amazon or any online seller. So I got my money back on returning it last week, not gona make the same mistake again.

Still wating on 2 more estimates from electrciians who suggested using permits. Most likely will pick one of them. I have another one scheduled for tomorrow. Will update soon.

Updated estimate :
  • Installation of 50A 2 pole GFCI Breaker Switch for electric charger in the Main Panel.
  • Run 6/3 Romex wire up to 100 feet from the Breaker Switch in the Main Panel to the garage where the new EV charger will be installed.
  • Miscellaneous, all necessary wiring connectors, screws, anchors, straps, fasteners, tie-downs, nuts, bolts, etc.
  • Cut and Patch drywall in all necessary areas for access to run the wire. *We patch it smooth, but we do not paint.*
  • Installation of new surge arrestor.
  • Installation of the new EV charger at the newly installed Receptacle.
  • (*EV charger price is not included in total price*)
  • Permit price is included in total price.
  • Installation of a Junction box, and cover.

Total: $2,000 Installed with permit. All other miscellaneous parts, materials, and labor included.

I received $1625 quote from another reputable guy but with no permit GFCI or surge protector. I guess $400 extra to make it code complaint reasonable?
Regarding permits and licensed electricians:

In the last 12 years, since I have lived in Florida, I have used several licensed electricians, all that I consider reputable. Once to replace the three 200 amp transfer switches for my generator, and once to replace the actual generator just this year. Once I used a reputable licensed electrician to replace a 200 amp panel in a rental house I used to own. Then Tesla installed my solar system. And I have a very good friend with two Tessies who had two Tesla Wall Connectors installed using an electrician from Tesla's list of recommended electricians. Last, my son recently installed a new whole house generator, with underground propane tank and a 200 amp transfer switch. In only two cases for the above work was a permit pulled (I bet you can guess which ones had the permit)! I do not consider the electricians that did the other jobs to be disreputable.

I have also installed branch circuits in my own house myself, and in some of my rental houses I have installed new branch circuits both myself and using an unlicensed handyman with my oversight. I have often gone into a rental house that I am refurbishing and replaced all the receptacles and switches, and sometimes pulled a new circuit here and there. I have renovated kitchens that only had one working small appliance circuit, and installed new dedicated circuits for the built in microwave, refrigerator and a second small appliance circuit and pulled a new circuit for a wall oven when the kitchen used to have just a range which was replaced with a cooktop.

I know how all this work is supposed to be done as I am an electrical engineer by education, and I have ensured that any work that is done is done properly and to the current code.

I have not worried about any of the work that was not done with a permit, and am not worried about any insurance claims. All of these houses have had 4-point insurance inspections and came out fine.

However, and notwithstanding what I have written above, I cannot recommend you have this done without a permit. Spend the extra money and get a permit.

And while you are at it, please hard wire install a Tesla Wall Connector. Unless your AGI is over $300,000 you can get a 30% tax credit right off the amount of income tax you pay to the Federal Government. In fact, you get the 30% tax credit for the cost of the Wall Connector and it's installation up to $1,000, so you are getting a $300 tax credit. It is no hassle to get that like the state rebates are. And your electrician should knock off about $200, maybe more, since he does not need to purchase a GFCI circuit breaker or the 14-50 receptacle (I am assuming he is installing a Hubble or other high quality 14-50, not a $15 Leviton). And maybe more than $200 less since with the Tesla Wall Connector he only needs to install 6/2 cable which should be less expensive than 6/3 cable. It should still be a 50 amp circuit if he is running NM-B cable, which he probably needs to run since installing conduit for your installation would be difficult, but if you did want a 60 amp circuit you could ask him about using 6/2 MC cable. Last, with the Tesla NACS EV connector, a Tesla Wall Connector will likely work with any EV you ever purchase in the future. The tax savings, and above savings I have outlined will likely pay for it. Keep the Tesla Mobile Connector in the Frunk. This is, for me, a no-brainer.

Regarding a surge protector:

Your electrical service should be governed by the code that was in effect when your house was built. When adding a new branch circuit, it should be installed pursuant to the current code, but it is not required that you improve your entire electrical system to the latest code revision. For example, when replacing an electrical panel, at least where I live, it is not necessary to upgrade all the circuit breakers to arc fault breakers for a panel that was installed before arc fault breakers were required. That said, I would install the surge protector. I installed surge protectors at my house, which was built in 2006, and also installed them at all of my rental houses, most of which were built in the 80's. I have never had any electrical surge damage at any of my houses, and I am in SE FL where we have some pretty severe electrical storms. You could probably do this yourself, but I would let the electrician do it. If you go with the Wall Connector, negotiate your price based on not installing a GFCI breaker, not installing the 14-50, and using 6/2 wire, which are real savings for the electrical when he purchases the items needed for your job. You do not want to be perceived as trying to be cheap by skimping on the surge protector. At least that is how I would work with an electrician.

Regarding your latest quote:

I like it. It is straight forward and to the point. No BS. Pulling a permit takes some work, drawing up and submitting the wiring diagram, other paperwork, in my town standing in line at the permit office, etc. $400 might be reasonable for that.

You are lucky you can get so many electricians to give you quotes. Around here it is hard to get an electrician to quote installing a new branch circuit unless using one of the electricians on the Tesla list of electricians on their web site.
-- -- -- -- -- --
The jobs I discussed above that had permits pulled were the Tesla solar installation and the completely new generator that my son had installed.

I hope the above is helpful. I am retired and I enjoy helping folks with stuff like this.
 
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GFI is supposed to be a good thing, but read so many people complaining about it tripping the circuit unnecessarily and being a total hassle.
Yes it is a hassle and more expensive, which is one of the main reasons why so many people are just recommending to do a hard wired wall connector now instead of an outlet.

This quote has some confusion in it:
  • Installation of 50A 2 pole GFCI Breaker Switch for electric charger in the Main Panel.
  • Installation of the new EV charger at the newly installed Receptacle.
  • (*EV charger price is not included in total price*)
The GFCI breaker is only required if you are getting an outlet. But then the later lines are talking about "installation" of a charging device, which would NOT be simply an outlet. Which is it?
 
Yes it is a hassle and more expensive, which is one of the main reasons why so many people are just recommending to do a hard wired wall connector now instead of an outlet.

This quote has some confusion in it:

The GFCI breaker is only required if you are getting an outlet. But then the later lines are talking about "installation" of a charging device, which would NOT be simply an outlet. Which is it?
The quote says:

  • Installation of the new EV charger at the newly installed Receptacle.
So either he has a non-Tesla EVSE with a 14-50 plug, or is going to put a range cord on the Tesla Wall Connector which is of course not allowed by Tesla's installation instructions.
 
Yes it is a hassle and more expensive, which is one of the main reasons why so many people are just recommending to do a hard wired wall connector now instead of an outlet.

This quote has some confusion in it:

The GFCI breaker is only required if you are getting an outlet. But then the later lines are talking about "installation" of a charging device, which would NOT be simply an outlet. Which is it?
Yes its a nema 14-50 outlet. They were confused between Wall Connector and mobile connector.
WC costs $475 and a gfci breaker maybe under $200. I already bought a Tesla 14-30 adapter for the dryer outlet for 3 months use.
Since I already have a MC/14-50 adapter, I don't want to keep buying more items. As I stated I am not looking for fast charging, 24A is plenty but 30A is more than enough for my needs.
 
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