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Issues with Electrics - Dodgy Builder?

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Hi

I've just moved into my new house and the builder has installed a Tesla Wall Charger at the front of the house. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be working as it was charging at 6A (which is slower than the 10A that I could get from my 3 point plug).

I also noticed that there wasn't a Earthing Rod and I'm not sure that my consumer unit contains a RCD Type B or a specific Type A-EV (but I'm not an expert).

Finally, I haven't seen certification for the electrics after this was installed.

Do I have a dodgy builder? IMG_7486.jpegIMG_6470.jpg
 
The car is saying that the charger is only offering the option to charge at 6amp which is odd. I thought the lowest setting on a Tesla charger was 12amp so certainly seems that the problem is at the charger end and not the car but I can't comment on the installation though there are some knowledgeable people on this site who will probably respond soon
 
Definitely installed by someone who doesn’t have a clue what they’re doing.

Incorrect RCD and no earthing rod would not pass inspection. That fact that you haven’t been given a certificate speaks volumes.

Are they on the governments approved installer list?
 
Think would need a close up of the breaker/RCD labeled car charger.
Did he lay a 40amp cable direct from the board to the charger? did you see?
Not all chargers need earth rod, not sure about the tesla one in this regard would need to check the tesla install guide.
You could have house insurance issues without the cert. Which often don't come to light until a claim is made.
Have you checked the install manual in case there is some manual override dip switch in the charger?
 
Just found the manual online, there are dip switches in the charger which limits the amps according to the supply
page 19 shows how to do this.
Check this, if it's set to 6amp, change it, but you want to be sure the wiring is setup for 32amp.
Else you'll have issues.
 
Definitely non-compliant with the regs. Sadly not that unusual, there are a lot of monkey's around that don't have a clue when it comes to electrical safety masquerading as "electricians". If you can get hold of the Part P cartel that the electrician was a member of you could report the non-compliant work, but frankly those cartels seem to care more about getting money from people then they do about enforcing the regs.

As above, I believe the Tesla wall Connector comes set to 6A by default, it's in the MI's that come with the unit, and which the monkey that installed it was supposed to have read before starting the work.

Might be a good idea to carefully check that the right cable was used, that it was properly terminated, etc, as if the installer has made a couple of major errors there's a fair chance they've made more. If you post a few more photos of terminations, cable, etc I can probably have a stab at seeing what's been done.
 
Hi

I've just moved into my new house and the builder has installed a Tesla Wall Charger at the front of the house. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be working as it was charging at 6A (which is slower than the 10A that I could get from my 3 point plug).

I also noticed that there wasn't a Earthing Rod and I'm not sure that my consumer unit contains a RCD Type B or a specific Type A-EV (but I'm not an expert).

Finally, I haven't seen certification for the electrics after this was installed.

Do I have a dodgy builder? View attachment 623818View attachment 623819
Quick google of the part number on the charger states it’s the following

RCBO Electronic 1P 6kA B Curve -32A, 30mA Type A(AC & Pulsating DC Sensitive)1M

which seems right to me
 
Quick google of the part number on the charger states it’s the following

RCBO Electronic 1P 6kA B Curve -32A, 30mA Type A(AC & Pulsating DC Sensitive)1M

which seems right to me

Unfortunately I don't think it is right as the RCD needs to be a type A-EV or type B and it is only a type A.

Home Charging Installation

Which residual current device (RCD) should I use with my installation?
The standards for installing charge points state that every individual connector should be protected with an RCD that protects against direct current leaking. The Tesla Wall Connector does not measure DC current leaking, so an RCD Type B or a specific Type A-EV needs to be installed. National regulations can vary so always check with your local recommended electrician.
 
Quick google of the part number on the charger states it’s the following

RCBO Electronic 1P 6kA B Curve -32A, 30mA Type A(AC & Pulsating DC Sensitive)1M

which seems right to me

No, definitely very wrong, and not to be used to protect a vehicle charge point without additional DC tolerant earth leakage protection and also open PEN fault protection if supplied from a PME installation, as the Tesla Wall Connector has no inherent UK compliant fault protection capability.

Any UK TWC installation needs as a minimum DC tolerant earth leakage protection (RCD type B or Type EV, not RCBO/MCB Type B or RCD Type A or AC). If connected to a PME installation then it also needs some for of open PEN fault protection as well. Given our recent experience with the PEN at the local transformer going open circuit, causing our "earth" to float up to a high voltage relative to true earth outside, my view now is that the insistence in the regs for having open PEN fault protection is absolutely essential.
 
Someone needs to tell Hager then!
https://www.hager.ie/files/download/0/750153_1/0/RCD_Types.pdf

looks like it’s a type A that will also protect for DC which is what I think is required from the posts above?
I’m assuming the installation is only single phase?

No they don't at all. A Type A RCD is NOT suitable for a smooth DC earth leakage current, the coil may be blinded by it, making it insensitive to a fault condition. The regs are crystal clear, only a Type B or Type EV RCD has the mandatory smooth DC tolerance required for a charge point supply.

The symbol on the front of a a Type A RCD shows that it is not smooth DC tolerant, as per this list of RCD type symbols:

RCD symbols.jpg
 
Hi

I've just moved into my new house and the builder has installed a Tesla Wall Charger at the front of the house. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be working as it was charging at 6A (which is slower than the 10A that I could get from my 3 point plug).

I also noticed that there wasn't a Earthing Rod and I'm not sure that my consumer unit contains a RCD Type B or a specific Type A-EV (but I'm not an expert).

Finally, I haven't seen certification for the electrics after this was installed.

Do I have a dodgy builder? View attachment 623818View attachment 623819
Hi and congrats on the new house

Just wondered the following:

Is this a New house build?
Is your builder registered by one of the home warranty insurance bodies?

My new-build home has problems - Which? Consumer Rights

Link above is worth a read.

Best to contact them first to see if you can get things sorted. Most large house builders do fix problems but they usually drag their feet. So be patient but persistent.

House builders like to bash them out and add some bells and whistles to sell them quick. And in the process don't read the manual before they install things or have any experience!
 
Only pointing you to what Hager print !!

The key is understanding what is written on the devices on the board itself and understanding what each protection device in that split board does.

Looking at the front of the RCD controlling that circuit (the one to the right, adjacent to the main switch), it is clearly marked as a Type AC, specifically a Hager model CD263U, and also clearly carries the sine wave in a box symbol (under the letters "AC") confirming that it is a Type AC device.

Over current protection and series RCD protection on that circuit is provided by a 32 A RCBO, a Hager ADA332G, which itself is a problem, as there's no earth leakage selectivity between it and the RCD feeding it (both are non-time delayed 30mA trip RCDs). The ADA332G is an over current trip curve B, earth leakage Type A RCBO, which is clearly stated as not having a smooth DC capability, only AC and pulsating DC.

The errors on this installation, from what's been stated here are:

1. Two residual current devices appear to have been wired in series, without providing a means of selectivity, the Type AC RCD that is supplying a Type A RCBO.

2. No residual current protection seems to have been provided to cope with the smooth DC leakage that can arise from a charge point.

3. Connecting the charge point through a Type AC RCD in the board allows any DC leakage from the charge point to blind the right hand RCD, so reducing it's sensitivity or even preventing it from working, perhaps removing essential RCD protection from all the circuits on the right hand side of the board, which include the kitchen circuits, where RCD protection is very important.

4. If the installation is wired as PME, then the charge point also requires open PEN fault protection, either using an open PEN detection device or via an earth electrode. The earth electrode and associated TT earthing side of the installation, if used, must not be within simultaneous touching distance of any PME earthed exposed conducting part.

All told that installation, as it stands, is unsafe, and if I were inspecting it would code it C2, with a requirement that it be urgently put right. The reason for the C2 is really the fact that the two earth leakage devices in series, causing the risk that all the circuits fed from the right hand Type AC RCD could have no earth leakage protection in effect, due to DC blinding.
 
Wow, I'm overwhelmed with the number of people that have taken the time to reply in 12 hours! Thank you to all who took the time. I come from a very non-electrical background so apologies if I get the terminology completely wrong.


- That fact that you haven’t been given a certificate speaks volumes - apparently they are a registered electrician. I am chasing the certificate today

- Incorrect RCD and no earthing rod would not pass inspection - Developer is currently disagreeing that an Earth Rod is needed and feels the RCD is correct. I imagine there will be a bit of a battle

- Did he lay a 40amp cable direct from the board to the charger? did you see? - it was installed before I moved in. The TWC is mounted on the wall outside of the garage. The cable comes through the brickwork and directly in the Consumer Unit

- Not all chargers need earth rod, not sure about the tesla one in this regard would need to check the tesla install guide - I watched a Youtube video from Artisan Electrics who recommends NOT buying a TWC because it does need an earth Rod

- You could have house insurance issues without the cert - Absolutely

- Have you checked the install manual in case there is some manual override dip switch in the charger?
Check this, if it's set to 6amp, change it, but you want to be sure the wiring is setup for 32amp.

-
I'm reluctant to open things up as I'm not very knowledgable about all things electric and do not want to make things worse. Apparently it is wired for 32A

- If you post a few more photos of terminations, cable, etc I can probably have a stab at seeing what's been done - Thanks for the offer but would this mean I would need to open the TWC or the CU up?

- Is this a New house build? - Yes. i'm hoping that I can have a reasonable discussion with the developer and get this sorted

@ Glan - super helpful - if/when the electrician comes - I'm just going to show him your latest reply!
 
- If you post a few more photos of terminations, cable, etc I can probably have a stab at seeing what's been done - Thanks for the offer but would this mean I would need to open the TWC or the CU up?

Please don't remove the covers/cases from anything, unless you are confident in safe working with electrical installations and understand safe isolation procedures, dead testing and verification. However, the way that the cable has been run to the TWC externally and the way that that cable has been externally terminated mechanically into the consumer unit would give a good indication as to the quality of workmanship and level of understanding by the installer as to what is required when installing a charge point.

Also, is the TWC inside or outside? This makes a difference as to how it should be connected up, as if, say, the CU is in a garage and the TWC is also within the same garage, then there is no requirement for open PEN protection (i.e. either an open PEN protection device or earth electrode). The reason has to do with the risk of touching the the car body if there is an open PEN fault on the incoming supply, and the likely true earth potential of the surroundings (garage floor, etc).


@ Glan - super helpful - if/when the electrician comes - I'm just going to show him your latest reply!

Glad to help. As a bare minimum, the RCBO needs to be removed, and a new supply to a small, dedicated, CU needs to be installed from the incoming tails that run to the main CU. This small additional CU needs a main switch, a Type B RCD plus a 32 A or 40 A MCB. If the supply is PME, and the TWC is located outside, then some form of open PEN fault protection is also needed, and could be included within the small secondary CU box.
 
The TWC is outside next to the garage (see pic) with the CU in the garage. I'm hoping that the electrician will move it inside the garage (which I've interpreted from your reply means no Earth Rod/PEN needed) and therefore should be cheaper for them.

I'll keep the forum updated. Thanks again all.
 

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