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Issues with my Model S

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I am somewhat disappointed as it almost feels like I have bought a lemon.

My 12V Battery has been replaced about 8 months ago. Then two months ago my car send me an charging interrupted message via the phone app. When I checked the car showed 12V battery issue, car needs service and car may not restart message. And sure thing car didn't start. After being on the phone with service for an hour the car was placed in tow mode and towed to the service center the next morning. Since my car is out of warranty I had to pay for the tow. When the car arrived at the service center they said it started up just fine and everything was normal - lovely. After trying to find out what the issue was and not finding any problems the service center replaced the 12V battery again and returned the vehicle to me after 5 days as they couldn't find anything wrong (they did treat me wekk and did not charge me for any work done). 61 days later which was yesterday I am getting the same message again. When checked on the vehicle while charging the same car needs service and 12 Volt Battery issues appeared on the screen again. After calling service they did a couple reebots and wanted to initiate a tow again. I said no I don't want to tow now and explained what happened two months ago. I was going to talk to my service center this morning. Too my surprise the car started up just fine 2 hrs after the incident last night and I drove it to work this morning with no issues. I am getting scared that the issue will eventually get me stranded somewhere and that I paid a lot of money for such an unreliable vehicle. Jump starting did not work so there is nothing I can do other than to look at all the fancy computer screens popping up with alerts.

Has anyone had any similar issues ? My car has now 75k miles and is a modelyear 2014.
 
That's a lot of miles for a 2 year old car, however, it should not matter. The only thing I do is talk to the same person in service and document everything. The next time this happens if it happens call service and ask the to pull the logs on your car give them the time and location when it happens.
 
That's a lot of miles for a 2 year old car, however, it should not matter. The only thing I do is talk to the same person in service and document everything. The next time this happens if it happens call service and ask the to pull the logs on your car give them the time and location when it happens.

Yes it's a lot of miles but I have driven other cars for 150-200k miles with no issues and it's a car, it should be built to drive especially if everyone is bragging about how reliable an EV is. On the last visit they have also replaced the drive unit. This 'almost' makes me want my reliable Kia back. I am just very frustrated.....
 
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Yes it's a lot of miles but I have driven other cars for 150-200k miles with no issues and it's a car, it should be built to drive especially if everyone is bragging about how reliable an EV is. On the last visit they have also replaced the drive unit. This 'almost' makes me want my reliable Kia back. I am just very frustrated.....

Sorry about your troubles. Cars, even Teslas can have failures. While drive able consider taking it to a differant service center if there is one available in your area for another opinion. Have you had other issues with your car as well? It's the mileage that creates wear on the car not time so I believe this one issue will be resolved and you can drive it for another 75000 miles reliably. Good luck.
 
Sorry about your troubles. Cars, even Teslas can have failures. While drive able consider taking it to a differant service center if there is one available in your area for another opinion. Have you had other issues with your car as well? It's the mileage that creates wear on the car not time so I believe this one issue will be resolved and you can drive it for another 75000 miles reliably. Good luck.

That last visit was performed in the Tampa service center and they even had a specialist from the Orlando service center to look at it but they couldn't find anything. I agree with more miles more wear on the drive unit or moving parts but not on electronics. I was an electrical engineer in the past and inverters/ converters etc don't wear in two years. This seems like either an issue with a wire harness or with an electronic component, both of them should not be affected by the mileage.
 
This seems like either an issue with a wire harness or with an electronic component, both of them should not be affected by the mileage.
This sounds like a connection/grounding issue. Intermittent problems and resolved after movement (towed) or getting in/out of car. This can happen with any car. Locating connection problems can be very tough. Measuring resistance on connections can locate them. The easiest way is to start moving wires when it is failing (be careful working with any battery ). Mileage can contribute by adding vibrations to connections but I don't think 75K miles would add much stress on connections, especially with no engine adding addition vibrations.
 
I had a similar issue about six months ago. Got the three 12v error messages. Car would not start (would not come out of park). Called for tow. Tow truck came and car started, so I drove it onto the flatbed and they took it in (got a bitchin' loaner too). They could not find the problem, got car back 4 days later. Then about two months later problem happens again. Car would not start all day. The 12v seemed a tad low at 12.2. Tried jumping, no luck. Next day car started fine. I drove it to SC. This time they found it. There is a switch in the high voltage junction box (HVJB) that opens if you take the lid off. The HVJB lives under the right rear seat. If that switch opens car won't start. They figured the resistance across the switch was a tad high when the switch was closed (I think needs to be less than 5 ohms, mine was 7 ohms, going off memory, they didn't put details in invoice). They replaced HVJB. No problems since. Not saying this is your problem, but this sounds similar.
 
I had a similar issue about six months ago. Got the three 12v error messages. Car would not start (would not come out of park). Called for tow. Tow truck came and car started, so I drove it onto the flatbed and they took it in (got a bitchin' loaner too). They could not find the problem, got car back 4 days later. Then about two months later problem happens again. Car would not start all day. The 12v seemed a tad low at 12.2. Tried jumping, no luck. Next day car started fine. I drove it to SC. This time they found it. There is a switch in the high voltage junction box (HVJB) that opens if you take the lid off. The HVJB lives under the right rear seat. If that switch opens car won't start. They figured the resistance across the switch was a tad high when the switch was closed (I think needs to be less than 5 ohms, mine was 7 ohms, going off memory, they didn't put details in invoice). They replaced HVJB. No problems since. Not saying this is your problem, but this sounds similar.

Thank you a lot for this reply. I will will definitely use this information when talking to the service center.
 
Thank you a lot for this reply. I will will definitely use this information when talking to the service center.

I had a similar issue about six months ago. Got the three 12v error messages. Car would not start (would not come out of park). Called for tow. Tow truck came and car started, so I drove it onto the flatbed and they took it in (got a bitchin' loaner too). They could not find the problem, got car back 4 days later. Then about two months later problem happens again. Car would not start all day. The 12v seemed a tad low at 12.2. Tried jumping, no luck. Next day car started fine. I drove it to SC. This time they found it. There is a switch in the high voltage junction box (HVJB) that opens if you take the lid off. The HVJB lives under the right rear seat. If that switch opens car won't start. They figured the resistance across the switch was a tad high when the switch was closed (I think needs to be less than 5 ohms, mine was 7 ohms, going off memory, they didn't put details in invoice). They replaced HVJB. No problems since. Not saying this is your problem, but this sounds similar.

May I ask which Service Center location did find this for you ?
 
From invoice:

"Concern: Customer states: Vehicle unresponsive and will not start. 12v battery alert
illuminated.

Pay Type: Warranty

Corrections: Vehicle Alerts General Diagnosis

Customer stated vehicle unresponsive. Reviewed log and found HVIL circuit out of
specification. Test system and found high resistance in HVBJ switch. Recommend HVJB
replacement.

Corrections: HV Junction Box - Cover - 2nd Generation

Removed and replaced HVJB for rear wheel drive. Verified Vehicle operating/ charging as
design.

Part Quantity

3 PHASE HIGH VOLTAGE JUNCTION BOX
ASSEMBLY - NORTH AMERICA (1021154-
02-J)
1

Parts Replaced or Added

Corrections: Perform Validation Test Drive
Performed validation test drive to ensure vehicle operating as design."
 
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These cars are just pieces of junk. Designed by an amateur auto maker that has consistently missed every single timeline it has put in place. Heck, they kept your car 5 days to do nothing. WHAT. Their own specialists have no idea what's going on. There was absolutely zero understanding of the KISS method while designing and building this car. A show room prototype somehow made it into production without some adults coming in and saying what a nightmare this will become.

My guess is you are having proximity sensor issues that is constantly causing communication with the car (albeit failed communication) but the car is trying to interpret signals. This will run the 12v battery down, causing the car to kick on the HV battery to recharge it. Depending on the level on occurrence, it could be going through several cycles a day which would explain such a short life on the lead acid battery.

Judging by the occurrences of even worse issues with the Model X, Tesla's service centers are going to be overwhelmed with problems, and you won't have anybody that knows enough about this lemon to be able to help you out.

Do not feed the troll!
 
These cars are just pieces of junk. Designed by an amateur auto maker that has consistently missed every single timeline it has put in place. Heck, they kept your car 5 days to do nothing. WHAT. Their own specialists have no idea what's going on. There was absolutely zero understanding of the KISS method while designing and building this car. A show room prototype somehow made it into production without some adults coming in and saying what a nightmare this will become.

My guess is you are having proximity sensor issues that is constantly causing communication with the car (albeit failed communication) but the car is trying to interpret signals. This will run the 12v battery down, causing the car to kick on the HV battery to recharge it. Depending on the level on occurrence, it could be going through several cycles a day which would explain such a short life on the lead acid battery.

Judging by the occurrences of even worse issues with the Model X, Tesla's service centers are going to be overwhelmed with problems, and you won't have anybody that knows enough about this lemon to be able to help you out.

This comment brought to you by Chevrolet. Have a look at the Volt, at your dealer today.
 
Thank you a lot for this reply. I will will definitely use this information when talking to the service center.
Something else that can affect a high-electronics car like a Tesla is connector problems - a tiny amount of corrosion in a certain place can cause intermittent problems. (I used to work for Packard Electric, [now Delphi] which made all wiring harnesses for GM vehicles). Connector problems were highest source of warranty work.
 
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