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Your welcome!
I'm not clear on the use cases for actually using the button settings, except for ending charge . . .
This is the most critical of all the items on the list IMHO. I'm fairly certain those of you with older installs won't have this (@TonyWilliams pls confirm) and should look into retrofitting the wiring harness > fuse block mod that ties the JdeMO power to the ignition circuit (link to supplement below). This cycles the JdeMO's power each time you turn the vehicle's power on/off essentially resetting it.
I had my JdeMO fail to handshake on three confirmed working DCFC units on a long trip to San Diego last year. I ended up driving the ESS down into no-man's-land trying to find one that would work and, in desperation, called Tony. Fortunately, he happened to pick up and had me manually reset the power by briefly disconnecting the CAN bus connector and watching for the green light to blink indicating a successful reset. That did the trick and I was able to trickle charge enough life into the pack on L2 and then eventually connect to the CHadeMO charger.
As soon as I had ample charge, I immediately drove up to QC Charge HQ in San Marcos where Tony and his team installed the fuse tap and harness mod. No issues with any DCFC units I've connected to in SoCal since then.
Dropbox - JdeMORoadsterSupplementCabinWiring.pdf - Simplify your life
Any folks having issues with OVMS after JdeMO install?
It seems it works ok when first connected (I get reports of charging state changes) but if I try anything through OVMS (i.e. set valet mode or lock car), I get no confirmation from the car and OVMS stops working (i.e. no messages on charging state changes) until I disconnect it from the harness and reconnect (I guess, effectively power cycling / resetting it)
It works fine connected directly to the CAN bus harness.
Guessing one of the splices for the Y in the JdeMO harness may need to be redone?
Assume that the fewer wires from the JdeMO harness (only 4) vs. the OVMS CAN cable is not an issue?
It seems it works ok when first connected (I get reports of charging state changes) but if I try anything through OVMS (i.e. set valet mode or lock car), I get no confirmation from the car and OVMS stops working (i.e. no messages on charging state changes) until I disconnect it from the harness and reconnect (I guess, effectively power cycling / resetting it)
It works fine connected directly to the CAN bus harness.
Guessing one of the splices for the Y in the JdeMO harness may need to be redone?
Assume that the fewer wires from the JdeMO harness (only 4) vs. the OVMS CAN cable is not an issue?
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I just saw Roadster's picture in his attachment (very helpful).
Today, OVMS in the Roadster only uses 4 wires (two for the instrumentation can bus, one constant 12v power, and one ground). Our gen2 cable (the one labelled OVT1 and sold as 'OVMS Data Cable for Early Teslas') includes extra wires for two other can buses (extra four wires) plus K-line (extra one wire). For Model S / X the extra CAN buses are used and the extra wires are needed. For Roadster, we don't currently use these, so the basic 4 wire connections should be fine.
However; note that in future we plan to take advantage of the connection to the other CAN buses in the Roadster. In particular the one with the ESS on it - so we can get access to individual brick voltages, as well as sheet temperatures, etc. Just treading carefully here, as that bus is critical for the car to be able to drive/charge.
I can ask my supplier if he can make up a variant of the OVT1 cable that can include a female Tesla diagnostic connector as well (with all pins brought through) - but that is likely going to be pricey (connectors+pins are expensive, and limited volume).
Good info, thanks!
I need to update my OVMS situation.
Now with OVMS connected directly to the car and JdeMO disconnected, I tried sending a few App commands. Valet Mode, PIN Lock. Nothing happened and no error messages were shown and then the OVMS again appeared to be frozen again.
By frozen, i mean, no notification messages of changes to charging state. No response to things like "OTA Status". The little timer for last connect on the "Car" screen just keeps going up. Unplugging the OVMS from the diagnostic port, waiting a bit and re-plugging re-establishes the connection and the normal notification messaging works fine.
Not sure if it's the OVMS (v3.2.008) or the Android App (v3.15.1) or the car (2.0 on firmware 4.7.2 hardware 33).
I never played around with the OVMS much prior to the JdeMO install where I have been trying to get the door lock functionality to work.
I probably should shift this to an OVMS thread.
as outlined above, my issue locking the car through OVMS looks like an OVMS issue, not JdeMO harness related.
just to be sure and close off the harness side of the equation, i enlisted a friend with a multimeter and continuity testing showed the harness wiring looked fine.
Looks great! This is what I was thinking to do behind the license plate. Are those magnets holding up the plate?
Wondering if they were able to do it without cutting the trunk bottom corner to get the inlet in there?
Contact me so can i make adapter and hinges to you
What Electrified Garage did is almost perfect minus the hinge position IMHO.
@Stefan T did they use the adapter and hinge system you developed?
Like @drewski, I want to make absolutely certain nothing else is compromised (e.g. cut through) in the process other than the bumper fascia.
How is the charge port box attached so it's mounted securely to the panel?
Also, can the hinge be mounted on the top so the plate flips up like @X.l.r.8 noted earlier here.
Finally, is there a template for making the cut through the bumper fascia to account for the charge port, hinge, door, screw holes and indicator button/light? I'm super picky about that kind of stuff and wouldn't want a roughed in look.
@Stefan T did they use the adapter and hinge system you developed?
Like @drewski, I want to make absolutely certain nothing else is compromised (e.g. cut through) in the process other than the bumper fascia.
How is the charge port box attached so it's mounted securely to the panel?
Also, can the hinge be mounted on the top so the plate flips up like @X.l.r.8 noted earlier here.
Finally, is there a template for making the cut through the bumper fascia to account for the charge port, hinge, door, screw holes and indicator button/light? I'm super picky about that kind of stuff and wouldn't want a roughed in look.
Here are some more pictures of @Stefan T's kit.
- Thick black frame is the Inlet Holder. This get's mounted to the bumper with the 4 allen bolts you see in the video above
- Thin black frame is a cutting template for the opening. This is for the opening and the screw holes. It does not have a spot indicated for the LED button. A close-up of the template is see in the license plate picture or in the linked album.
- Grey pieces are the license plate hinges. These could be used (IMO) with the hinge on top or the bottom.
- There is a close up of the non-pivot end showing the Spring Closure mechanism he's made with the 3D printing.
- As Stefan mentioned, he didn't have a US plate. There is a pic of the room if the holder is pushed against the plate from one side. The room for the plate could potentially be reduced by 1-1.5mm (though there could be variances state to state, so this is probably "safe")
- There is no room to screw the plate to the hinge, unless modification is made. you can see this in one of the album pics. An industrious person should be able to figure a way to secure it to the hinge. This is less of an issue with the 1.5/2.0 which don't have the "Euro" width plate where the plate could possibly slide to the side and out of the hinge
- There's a pic of the hinges on a license plate. When aligned with the holes on the plate centered, there is EXACTLY enough room for the cutout opening. The hinges can be offset to provide more clearance.
- In pics of one of his original installs, there was cutting of the trunk needed. He did say he's modified the design so this may not be necessary (or maybe less?)
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it looked pretty tight down there . . . unless you had some kind of 90 degree connector for those 2 AWG wires coming out of the JdeMO inlet.
i could be wrong. i posted a Q to the Electrified Garage page where that video was to see if they had other pictures from under the car.
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Would love to see a photo illustrating the space limitations. Does some kind of 90 deg connector/adapter exist? Paging @TonyWilliams, @CM_007, @MLAUTO, @ExecMotorwerkz, @petergrub for their thoughts.
If you can keep documenting your findings in your Goggle Album @drewski I'll contribute as well when I start to dig into this myself.
If you can keep documenting your findings in your Goggle Album @drewski I'll contribute as well when I start to dig into this myself.
Wasn't sure I'd be interested in this, but the more I think about it, the more I'm interested....
Anyone with a total cost estimate for the work and/or parts?
Anyone with a total cost estimate for the work and/or parts?
Are you asking about Stefan's kit or JdeMO itself?
I did DIY for JdeMO so can't help there, but QC charges $799, iirc, if you're in San Diego area.
Stefan's kit was around $70 shipped so could be different depending on where you are. Haven't tried install yet.
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