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Kenriko Chrome Delete Kit: Show off your tips and pictures here

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Passenger side done...

Better than the driver side in general, but not up to my standard.

My conclusion as someone who paid to have a chrome delete done on my first model 3, and just attempted it myself on the second model 3. For me personally, I'd rather pay to have someone do it.

That said, I actually think the door handles, mirrors aren't bad. Which is funny, because I think most pro installers hate the mirrors. In fact, my mirrors are better than my pro install. However, the window trim is not nearly as clean as the pro install (which looked nearly OEM). My pro install had no dust nibs anywhere, and I think all the edges were clean. Maybe all these things are just jumping out at me because I attempted it myself.

I would advise someone to wash your car completely before doing this, not just clay bar/wash the trim.I think I actually had dirt or dust on the rubber seals, and windows which compromised a nice seal. If the vinyl flops around and hits a dirty window, it now has dirt all over it. Even though its 65f in my garage, it has been 40 outside and I wonder if the car was really warm enough. I also was a bit tentative to use my heat gun which has 2 settings and both are way hotter than 200f. From 7inches away, yes its 200f (as measured by a thermocouple I have laying around for coffee roasting heh), but that makes it challenging to use correctly. Maybe my results would've been different in nice spring temps, with great lighting, with my garage door open.

Overall the car looks awesome, even from 5ft away. But I'm not satisfied. For me, its a $40k+ car and I want a modification to look OEM. There are too many little slightly raised edges on the door trim, or small little areas that didn't wrap flush and tight like the door corners, or corner of t3 (coverage is great but extra material and not a clean finish). Also one section on t4 which somehow got 3 specs of dirt underneath. I don't even think I'll request the 1ups to fix my mistakes as I'd rather pay a pro $300 to just do the window trim. I'm very tired after spending 10 hours doing this.

My first delete was $500. A different local guy quoted me $400. Personally, I'd rather pay a pro and spend my time elsewhere. I do think you can get nice results but professionals are professionals imo.

Sidenote: center console wrap shouldn't even be a marker for attempting this - the console wrap is cake because the environment is controlled and you have sharp edges to wrap. Also, the plastic edge of the squeegee tool does appear to be the right thing to do for the t3/t4 trim pieces where you're tucking the top edge into the rubber seal (big difference using that on the passenger side).
I’d agree with you on the temperature in your workspace. It was maybe 55 in my garage. The vinyl was stiff and difficult to work with. I’d give it a quick warming w my heat gun, but it was difficult not too heat it too much (heat gun was on its lowest temp, around 140). Then it became “too floppy”, too easy to stretch. My garage was prolly 45 degrees the morning I started. The door handles are relatively heavy metal it seems. They remained cool, or would become too warm if I preheated them. Definitely need to do the handles again. I even used up the extras trying to get the handles correct.

Mirrors and camera are ok. Mirrors I’d give a 6 or 7. Camera maybe 8/10 on workmanship. Door handles a 5 for sure.

I too think that if one does it himself it’s easy to be super critical, since you’ve spent hours staring at close range, under harsh lights trying to get it as near perfect as possible. I’m gonna have a few buddies check out my work. I won’t tell them I did it. If they say I was ripped off by the shop, then I’ll know my standards were too low.
 
I’d agree with you on the temperature in your workspace. It was maybe 55 in my garage. The vinyl was stiff and difficult to work with. I’d give it a quick warming w my heat gun, but it was difficult not too heat it too much (heat gun was on its lowest temp, around 140). Then it became “too floppy”, too easy to stretch.

This is exactly why we give a temperature range for the install. It's a goldilocks situation for sure. Absolutely ideal is low 70s.
 
shop.jpg


We're now performing local installs by appointment only out of our North Houston location.

See the thread below for more information.


Vendor - Kenriko - Chrome Delete, Console Wraps and More | Houston
 
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Hey Kenriko!

Just wanted to give your thread a bump from the dead and report on my Black Matrix kit.

It still looks as good as day one despite a pretty crazy PNW winter. Not a single millimeter of peeling/discoloration/failure and it's been one seriously rainy ass wet season up here.

It's pretty clear at this point your kit withstands the test of time. :cool: Not sure as much can be said about the 'other' brands out there.
 
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Hey Kenriko!

Just wanted to give your thread a bump from the dead and report on my Black Matrix kit.

It still looks as good as day one despite a pretty crazy PNW winter. Not a single millimeter of peeling/discoloration/failure and it's been one seriously rainy ass wet season up here.

It's pretty clear at this point your kit withstands the test of time. :cool: Not sure as much can be said about the 'other' brands out there.

I was just going to report, I've had my Matrix black on since April and my install has not peeled off or shown any wear from weathering. Pretty happy with the quality and longevity of it!
 
@Kenriko i am just about done installing matrix black on my model 3. I have finished the passenger side but want to know if I am doing something wrong as the wrap will not tuck under the rubber on t3 and t4. It does look good and barley sits on the rubber but have a feeling it might fail prematurely do to not being tucked in. I am going to start driver side tonight and just want an opinion on wether or not that's a bad move to leave it resting on the rubber.

Thnx in advance.
 
My personal experience: had to use fingernail to pull back the rubber to tuck in the T3 wrap, there was no way for the T4 wrap to tuck under the rubber so I don't think the overlap statement in the tutorial can apply to everyone, then again idk bc Tesla tolerances can vary.

IMO I really can't see all of the window trim pieces surviving multiple car washes without losing adhesion, perhaps the past posters can provide updates on how they've held up overtime.
 
My personal experience: had to use fingernail to pull back the rubber to tuck in the T3 wrap, there was no way for the T4 wrap to tuck under the rubber so I don't think the overlap statement in the tutorial can apply to everyone, then again idk bc Tesla tolerances can vary.

IMO I really can't see all of the window trim pieces surviving multiple car washes without losing adhesion, perhaps the past posters can provide updates on how they've held up overtime.
Yeah that is kind of how I feel. Glad to hear I am not the only one getting this kind of results. I do like the kit and think it is well made.
 
I was able to actually get all t3 and t4 tcuked under. Passenger side was a bitch as I had already laid it all down but I got and driver side came out better as I knew what to do. Cant wait to get car outside as it's sitting on Jack stands right now.
 
I still haven't done the mirrors and the kit has been sitting in the frunk since I got it. I got the matrix black and for some reason it seems like T1 along with T2 don't seem to be long enough, just ever so slightly too short. If i used a heat gun, it stretches and then the chrome is exposed.

Gotta order them replacements but heres the drivers side which looks infinitely better than the passenger side. (since I need to order replacement pieces to fix the passenger)

IMG_0251.jpg
 
I finally had the time to install the chrome delete last weekend on my white Model 3 and overall, I'm incredibly happy with the results. I've made a few small mistakes along the way, particularly with the mirror but luckily, Kenriko included backups. It took me a total of about 7-8 hours but I attributed that to me being very meticulous, but also because of the fact that I tried installing this in Texas heat which made everything 2x more difficult.

Someone recommended installing the window "V" piece by aligning it from the middle first, which I agree is a little bit easier. Anyways, here are the results!

View attachment 454872
View attachment 454873
View attachment 454874
View attachment 454876

Hi, What colour did you pick? Matte Black, Satin Black, or Satin Dark Gray? Wondering what colour chrome delete will look best on the pearl white tesla 3 with the aero wheels (covers removed)?

Many Thanks

DC
 
My satin black kit had been sitting gathering dust for way too long! Finally got to working on it, installed the door handles today. Read each and every comment and advice on this forum and watched the Kenriko video before attempting. Started from the passenger side rear door. I thought I had lined it up pretty good but it wasn't the case, didn't have enough material at the top to tuck it over. However, I took my time and used this first attempt at getting comfortable with the material and the install. Passenger side rear door turned out way better after being overly cautious with the positioning of the piece. Went back and re-did the Passenger rear with the spare and then did the driver side handles. All in all decent for someone whose only experience is installing the center console wrap prior to this attempt.

Kenriko, question for you! Although I had a heat gun, the edges of the door handles with the sharp curvature (front-bottom and rear-top of each handle) wont stay stuck. Any way to fix this now that the wrap is already installed? Is it a matter of going back, apply some heat and getting it to stick again?

Agree with others on here, the kit is well made and a joy to work with {even though user error may cause less than a perfect install :) }
Couple of images attached. Look forward to (with some nervousness) installing the rest of the kit.

driver rear.jpg passenger front.jpg