DR61
Member
Not a Tesla owner, so I am not familiar with what 'always connected' is and why it would help with vampire loss. Can you explain?
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dhanson865
Well-Known Member
Dude he's in the US, it's 120v and has been longer than you've been alive (I'm guessing your age is sub 70, it's been that way in the US for at least 70 years, likely longer).
Busted!
Standard is 120V, my only excuses are a) I’m not a native, b) 110 is easier to type than 120, and c) under 12-15A load, it’s often closer to 110, or d) all of the above. Good enough excuses?
Presuming we’re still aligned on point that it’s still best to plug in umc to wall power ac, than plugging trickle charger in to same wall power to keep 12V battery topped up via in-car cigarette lighter socket?
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This is a good reason to only have push notifications on for when charging is interrupted.
As per the earlier owners manual for the 3 (the one I uploaded here: Updated Owner's Manual ) on Page 52:
Saving Energy
Model 3 has an energy-saving feature that reduces the amount of energy being consumed when Model 3 is not in use.
Touch Controls > Displays > Energy Saving and choose from the following options:
Interestingly, and just discovered this, this section has since been removed from the current owners manual... so maybe this is further out, or just not intended to ship now Model 3 has an energy-saving feature that reduces the amount of energy being consumed when Model 3 is not in use.
Touch Controls > Displays > Energy Saving and choose from the following options:
- OFF - Model 3 shifts to the energy-saving mode at night (10 pm to 5 am).
- ON - significantly less energy is consumed whenever Model 3 is not in use. The start-up time of the touchscreen and Bluetooth could be slower.
- Always Connected - preserves cell connectivity when energy saving is active. This allows the mobile app to connect to Model 3 quicker, and provides immediate internet access when entering the car. Slightly more energy is consumed.
To answer your specific question succinctly: it’s so we can do logging without causing the entire car to wake up, ie
Energy savings on, always connected off: least energy use
Energy savings on, always connected on: minimal additional use (depends how much, and can’t tell on 3 as these are not shipping)
Energy savings off: why ever?
Interestingly, and just discovered this, this section has since been removed from the current owners manual... so maybe this is further out, or just not intended to ship now
Yeah I was gonna say that this isn't an actual available feature on the 3…
dhanson865
Well-Known Member
Busted!
Standard is 120V, my only excuses are a) I’m not a native, b) 110 is easier to type than 120, and c) under 12-15A load, it’s often closer to 110, or d) all of the above. Good enough excuses?
Presuming we’re still aligned on point that it’s still best to plug in umc to wall power ac, than plugging trickle charger in to same wall power to keep 12V battery topped up via in-car cigarette lighter socket?
a. good excuse
b. lazy excuse
c. only if your outlet/wiring run/utility feed are our of spec. The range for ANSI C84.1 Service Voltage Limits is 114 to 126. If you are seeing below 115 on a regular basis that isn't by design. If I saw that, I'd investigate if it were in my wiring or if the utility isn't providing me a quality feed.
I don't have any objection to using a CTEK or Noco Genius to deslufate and top off a 12v in a Tesla. Using the cigarette port gets into fuse box modification but it's nothing irreversible or damaging.
I wouldn't be plugging in the Noco Genius more often than the J1772 or Tesla connector. In fact I'd do it infrequently say once a week or once a month (depending on temps and how bad your vampire drain is). And of course I'd document that vampire drain and try to get Tesla to correct the underlying issue so that I wouldn't have to babysit the 12v battery.
For daily use I'd use my normal charging method and ignore the 12v. If that bites me in the rear, then I'd say Tesla needs to improve the car.
tagpats
Member
I have experienced this as well. Try slightly lowering your charge level setpoint. I was set at 70% and was getting charge starting and ending notifications every minute, on the minute. I lowered it slightly and since then, have not had any issues.
I do occasionally get a charging is complete notification when the car is plugged in and I go near the car with my phone and it unlocks the car. It’s as if when the car comes out of sleep it begins the charging process, but immediately recognizes it is at its setpoint and then terminates the charging process. Doesn’t happen every time, but does from time to time.
I often get 114 to 115 at 12A, right on edge of spec. Though not worrying.
General advice is still just plug a Tesla in and expect it to work. That was my point
hacer
Active Member
Mine behaves this way too but not so high ( ~ 7 miles/day ) but I get multiple messages over night about charging complete. I don't and haven't used any logging apps/programs so it has nothing to do with that.
That’s the point of the thread
The fact Tesla have removed the additional information from the manual doesn’t inspire me this is “imminent”
I am going to try a trickle charger on the 12 volt battery to see if the model 3 acts the same as my model S. Every summer I leave my model S parked for a couple of months while I go to another house in a cooler (hurricane free) location. When I hook up a trickle charger to the emergency charge point in the front of the S, I don't loose a single percent of charge on the main battery during the entire time I am gone. I feel this is much better for the main pack, less stress on the contactors, converter, etc. and it maintains a constant voltage on the 12 volt battery and attached systems. I am not worried about which way costs more in energy but which way is best for the car.
oripaamoni
Member
I tried to put a charger on the 12 volt battery last night with no good results. The float voltage in the battery maintained by the vehicle is higher than the float voltage of the charger I was using. This is the same charger I use on my S which fixed the vampire drain. I looked at the voltage that they are maintaining the battery at (and although I haven't logged it yet) it is very high. When in operation, the battery is at 14.85 volts. Seems about a volt high for float and a little over what I would think is a safe limit for operation. I am going to try it again tonight as I got an update last night that may have pulled some power that I wasn't expecting.
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