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Local Place - Refused to install tires...

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When Jack mode is not on, as green1 said it confuses the suspension, I've had a small problem the first time I jacked the car when I forgot to put the Jack Mode, while lifted the car decided to lower the suspension and my jack was stuck underneath. I was confused at first, but eventually I changed the settings and it was a good reminder of making sure Jack Mode to be always on.
 
I had a Sears installer refuse to mount my tire rack order for my MS. He said he didn't want to risk it because the car is carbon fiber. I told him he's thinking of a different car, this one isn't CF. Still, wouldn't do it (I'm glad now because he's probably an idiot). So I b*&^d at tire rack and made him deliver the tires to someone else, who did it with no issues.

A side note, I pulled a wheel and tire off and put it back on after getting a flat and having a single tire replaced. First, the car is freaking heavy, and my 3 ton jack was creaking the whole time (Harbor Freight :/ ). Second, the wheel and tire is heavy. Third, the torque spec on the lugs is huge. Not a fun job.
 
So I get the frustration factor here; however, Im not too sure about the logic in ordering your own tires and then having a dealership of another brand put them on...Id say you got a response that i would half expect from any kind of dealership, high end or otherwise. Why not just go to a local tire shop to install, that specializes in tires being replaced/repaired/serviced.
 
So I get the frustration factor here; however, Im not too sure about the logic in ordering your own tires and then having a dealership of another brand put them on...Id say you got a response that i would half expect from any kind of dealership, high end or otherwise. Why not just go to a local tire shop to install, that specializes in tires being replaced/repaired/serviced.

I had hoped a higher end shop would be used to lower profile tires and have the needed equipment to not damage/scratch them...
I did find a shop, that after bringing them the car to look at is going to do the work.
I actually plasti-dipped the wheels a few months ago, front and back, and thus right over the wheel weights which will have to be removed.
Because of this, and because I'm kind of OCD about other people in my car who aren't my wife or Telsa, I'm just going to pull the wheels and take them the wheels OFF the car, so I can remove the plasti-dip.

I didn't have to dip the back of wheels, but I'll post a video of how it's held up, and the dirt on the barrel, and what the wheels look like under the dip. The plasti-dip was for two reasons.
1. I like stuff blacked out
2. protect the wheels for trade-in on an X.
 
The car has an OBD port, by law, but only has power connection there. No data.

The TPMS are reset using that friendly panel in the center of the dash. You will have to drive several miles for the alert popping up asking for reset. Or just proactively reset them. No need for tool other than your finger to poke the screen.

I bought my rubber at Costco. They mount them, no problem. It is not a big deal getting service on a Tesla.

Here's a gem of advice: There is precious little space between the wheel and front suspension lower control arm bolts. If you have balancing weights stuck to the rim that are thicker than 1/8", they can get knocked off by those bolts. Have the wheels mounted to the car and spun by hand looking for that interference. If you plan on rotating your tires later, then also put the rear wheel on the front (temporarily) and spin it to check for interference. The rear suspension has a lot more room, if it passes the front test, it will clear in the back.
 
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