Looking for insight with M3P driving characteristics

[jjrandorin]

Running lighter 18x8 wheels with a regular all season tire. The last 60 miles are about 345 wh/mi with conservative driving minus the 4 0-60 runs I did. Also the car starts out at about 700wh/mi and takes a few miles to start coming down substantially. Not sure if thats normal behavior or not.

I wonder if you have something in your brakes / brake calipers etc? The "start high and work down" wh/mi numbers are fairly normal when its colder but I cant tell you if those numbers are normal for your area. They are high in relation to my own car but thats not super relevant.

Given your forum handle, I am going to make an assumption that you know your way around fast vehicles, and have a fairly well calibrated "butt dyno" in addition to the results you have. Your "butt dyno" is telling you something is fighting against the acceleration / dragging...

In my opinion it feels like there is something in the driveline causing resistance against accelerating. Its like the car is working against the regen while its accelerating if that makes any sense. Cannot wait to drive another car again to compare it.

If its not chill mode / wrong profile, then there sounds like there is something that needs to be addressed.

 

[MadMen]

Sounds like it's running on a single motor....

 

[buckets0fun]

Wonder if you’ve got some stuck calipers.

Have you been into service mode to check for (pending) alerts? I know tesla has said it’s behaving normally, but this is weird

 

[jjrandorin]

Sounds like it's running on a single motor....

maybe? The car should have alerts all over the place if thats the case though, at least I think so.

A stuck caliper though... yeah I could definitely see that

 

[Dangerous Fish]

The CSV file will tell us a lot. Otherwise we're just guessing.

 

[MadMen]

You should smell a stuck caliper riding the brakes though if it's enough to slow it down that much.

 

[gsxracer0783]

Yeah I've been into anything with a motor and wheels my whole life lol built a few turbo cars and supercharged LS motors. Moved from the turbo cars to the Corvette scene but have 3 kids and the Corvette has 2 seats so we can never drive it. Tesla with 4 doors and the performance really filled a void not much else did.

The previous post pretty much nails it with describing that if feels like the car is fighting against something. Feels exactly like that. The loaner we had just freewheeled and seemed to have barely any rolling resistance. As soon as I let off the throttle the car just wants to stop. Ill have to check the brakes when we get home. That actually makes sense.

 

[gsxracer0783]

 

[Black306]

Alright how do I do that? Also what do you guys average for wh/mi with conservative driving?

I used to hypermile our other EVs so am used to trying to get as much efficiency as possible. It takes alot of babying the car to get it below 300wh/mi.

Running lighter 18x8 wheels with a regular all season tire. The last 60 miles are about 345 wh/mi with conservative driving minus the 4 0-60 runs I did. Also the car starts out at about 700wh/mi and takes a few miles to start coming down substantially. Not sure if thats normal behavior or not.

IIRC, cruising at a steady 65mph, with the HVAC at 68, non-extreme ambient conditions (ie no rain, ~65F), by myself, no extra load in the truck/frunk, tires at ~42psi, in my '20 Performance, I can get ~250wh/mi. Might have been as high as ~260wh/mi, but it was definitely significantly below 300.

 

[Dangerous Fish]

It's not the brakes. Just post a CSV file from Track Mode. My lifetime average wh/mi is well over 400 and my brakes aren't stuck

 

[carl82590]

I'm a new owner to a Model 3 but just adding my 2 cents.
I'm not sure if Tesla's have this but is it possible it's in some kind of 'Limp' mode? My wife and I experienced something similar in an ICE car and there were no errors being thrown (No CEL / Codes apparent). We were trying to merge onto a freeway and semi-trucks were passing us and the vehicle would only hit 80MPH. Turns out it was a loose MAF connector but once it was plugged in the car behaved normally.

 

[carl82590]

I'm a new owner to a Model 3 but just adding my 2 cents.
I'm not sure if Tesla's have this but is it possible it's in some kind of 'Limp' mode? My wife and I experienced something similar in an ICE car and there were no errors being thrown (No CEL / Codes apparent). We were trying to merge onto a freeway and semi-trucks were passing us and the vehicle would only hit 80MPH. Turns out it was a loose MAF connector but once it was plugged in the car behaved normally.

Not sure how to edit my post but I did find this thread that might be related to your issue

Performance not performing

Hi All. Excuse my first post, I'm not really one for forums but wanted to share and get some advice. Middle of last week, I managed to get a 2021 Model 3 Performance that appeared on the inventory, an ex-demo. Grey, ubertubrines, looks beautiful. Collected it in Manchester with my work...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[gsxracer0783]

I'll get the CSV file tomorrow. Did the reboot when we got home. Just too late and dark here to do a run. Looks like I need to create the file in the flash drive then should be good to go.

I read that thread that was posted last night and it doesnt make sense that the performance of the performance model would fall off and the long range outperform it. But if that happens to be the case we might end up switching to the long range which seems just totally backwards to me.

 

[father_of_6]

I read that thread that was posted last night and it doesnt make sense that the performance of the performance model would fall off and the long range outperform it. But if that happens to be the case we might end up switching to the long range which seems just totally backwards to me.

Absolutely, definitely under no circumstance does the LR beat the P in acceleration, even if the LR has acceleration boost. The P has more powerful motors. I have an LR with acceleration boost and it's a fast rocket. Your P should be even faster.

You'd know if it were in Chill Mode because it straight up says "Chill" at the top of the visualization screen.

Something's wrong, and your car is still under warranty. I'd not be in a hurry to get rid of it. Let the service center sort it out.

 

[dsgerbc]

I vaguely remember there being cold-ish weather performance issues when the P battery was transitioned from LG to Panasonic. I thought those were fixed via software later, but maybe your car thinks it still has a LG pack?

 

[E90alex]

I vaguely remember there being cold-ish weather performance issues when the P battery was transitioned from LG to Panasonic. I thought those were fixed via software later, but maybe your car thinks it still has a LG pack?

Performance never had an LG pack in the US.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

32 degrees outside and battery was at 44%.

0-60 was almost dead on 5 seconds.

Although your previous descriptions definitely indicate a problem, 5 seconds isn’t entirely unbelievable with a dead, frozen battery and rando all-seasons.

Check the error page in Service Mode for hints.

 

[E90alex]

Although your previous descriptions definitely indicate a problem, 5 seconds isn’t entirely unbelievable with a dead, frozen battery and rando all-seasons.

Check the error page in Service Mode for hints.

My LR wouldn’t even be that slow in similar conditions.

 

[dsgerbc]

Performance never had an LG pack in the US.

That might be right, but the issue was reported around the time the capacity was bumped from 79 to 82 kWh.
The car was limiting power quite severely, which was very visible in the bulk of the power bar up top being replaced with a dashed line (unavailable).

OP: post a picture of the Tesla screen (top left portion) while accelerating with a SOC in the 30-40% range.

 

[Mash]

Mystery thread.

Tire traction limit should be reset maybe?