Model 3 DIY Light kits: Review and installation tips, with pics

[GreenHokie]

(moderator note)
After discussion and agreement, split this off into its own thread


Apologies to the OP for hacking his thread, but thought I would share my experience for those interested in this type of light kit.
I’ve had mine for a few weeks and really like it. Tried a few different kits and experimented/practiced with the installation a few times before finally being satisfied with the end result. Photos attached below, but first a few observations….

1. The first kit I tried was from Basenor (on Amazon). Not very good. For whatever reason, I could not get the supplied light tube to straighten out, even when heated with a hair dryer and stretched out overnight. As a result, the light tube never looked very straight when installed. Disclaimer: I’m a perfectionist. So, what would be acceptable to 95% of the population, I would probably reject.
Also, the brightness of the light tube was not very uniform across the length of the tube. I don’t know if it was the quality of the light tube or quality of the controller/driver that was the culprit. I returned the kit.

2. The second kit I tried was from Nestour (Amazon). Their light tube was definitely better condition/quality. I still had to use a hair dryer to heat/stretch/straighten the tube to my liking, but I think that is probably necessary with all these kits since the tubes are always tied in loops when they are packaged/shipped. The brightness was also a lot more uniform across the entire length of the tube, especially on the long dashboard strip. So, I think both the light tube and controller are better on the Nestour kit. Only negative was the supplied double-sided tape (to attach the light tube to the underside of the dashboard). Even after prepping/cleaning the mounting surface of the dashboard with rubbing alcohol and applying heat (hair dryer), the light tube still did not adhere very well. I ended up buying a small roll of 3M VHB 4905 tape and re-installed the dashboard light tube. This time, I also prepped the surface with 3M adhesion promoter. Bingo! Adhesion remains solid, even during the colder fall evenings/temps. Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0937C9DJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This particular kit also came with the two matching front footwell lights. However, I chose not to install these because they were too much/bright for my taste.

3. At night, there is some reflection off the windshield from the dashboard light tube, but certainly nothing dangerous or distracting (even when the light tube is set at full brightness). Naturally, it depends on which color you have on, because certain colors are brighter than others (the preset White is much brighter than the preset Red). Of course, if you find it distracting, you can always lower the brightness to a point where there will be zero reflections.

4. I always leave the light tubes ON. Very little power draw with these LED kits. And, as stated by the OP, the light tubes will turn themselves OFF when your vehicle goes to sleep. When your vehicle wakes up, the light tubes will turn ON automatically. Easy, no fuss. Another reason I like leaving them ON… it’s cool to see the lights when you return to your vehicle while out running errands. Note: for those of you who park on the street overnight (or in an area where sentry mode is always on), then you might want to turn OFF the light tubes when you park/leave your vehicle for the evening. You can do this manually (by pressing the power button on the controller) or with the app on your phone.

5. Installation tip: Install the dashboard tube with your head/eyes above the dashboard. In other words, don’t sit in the front seat when installing the dashboard light tube. From the position/angle of the front seat, it will be extremely difficult to get the light tube perfectly straight/consistent across the entire dashboard. Your install may look good/straight when viewed from the front seats, but as soon as you look at the dashboard light from the outside (front fender area of) the vehicle, you’ll probably notice your install was not very straight/smooth and a little wavy. Why care what the dashboard light looks like from the outside? Well, that is the way/angle that everyone else will see it when they walk up to your vehicle or when you are beside someone at a stop light. So, I think it’s important to get the dashboard light tube as straight/smooth as possible, so it looks like a pro installed it. So, installing it with your head above the dashboard will allow you to use the front edge/lip of the dashboard as a guide... This will allow you to line up the light tube properly.

And now for some photos….

 

[dandigangi]

Just ordered also for 50% off. This code might still work if anyone wants it: NESTOUR50

Looks like this is the best one out there. Look forward to installing. Thanks for sharing OP and GreenHokie. Going into my 2022 once it arrives.

 

[GreenHokie]

Forgot to mention one other installation tip. Not necessary, but will improve the look & durability.

For vehicles with the older (pre-2021) center console, use double-sided tape on the two console light tubes.
Remove the two vinyl side panels to give you access to the aluminum trim strip. The side panels are extremely easy to remove.
Tape the light tube to the aluminum trim and then pop the side panels back in place. Super easy and will ensure the light tube stays locked in place. This is especially useful in the area where you bend & tuck the light tube underneath the armrest (without the double-sided tape, the light tube tends to lift-up and pop-out of position in this area).

 

[GreenHokie]

Just ordered also for 50% off. This code might still work if anyone wants it: NESTOUR50

Looks like this is the best one out there. Look forward to installing. Thanks for sharing OP and GreenHokie. Going into my 2022 once it arrives.

You’re welcome. Actually, the light tube design/shape and controller/driver on this kit by SUMK is far superior to Nestour. It’s hard to tell from the supplied product photos on Amazon, but the ends of their tubes have a black rubber coating on them to prevent light bleed and that annoying bright spot. The result is a very clean/uniform looking tight tube with minimal bright spots at the ends. Unfortunately, their dashboard tube is a 2-piece design, so that was a complete deal-breaker for me. Too bad, because I really wanted to keep/use the SUMK kit.

Amazon.com

 

[dandigangi]

You’re welcome. Actually, the light tube design/shape and controller/driver on this kit by SUMK is far superior to Nestour. Unfortunately, their dashboard tube is a 2-piece design, so that was a deal-breaker for me. Too bad, because I really wanted to keep/use the SUMK kit.

Amazon.com

What do you mean by two piece?

 

[GreenHokie]

What do you mean by two piece?

Instead of one single continuous light tube, SUMK’s precut dashboard tube comes in two separate sections. So, as a result, it will not run continuously across the dashboard. If you take a closer look at their supplied product photo, you will notice that SUMK’s dashboard light tube is designed to be installed in a different position on the dashboard than the Nestour product. SUMK’s dashboard tube is designed to be installed/tucked below that aluminum trim piece on the dashboard.

 

[3square]

anyone tried tapping into the stock footwell bulb for power and trigger? I rather have a seamless setup, don't want to keep turning it on and off by pressing the button. Just open and close the door, the light should turn on and off with the ambient footwell light.

 

[ethanfl79]

View attachment 739976


View attachment 739978

In these two pics, it looks almost like the tube on the dash isn't connected to a light source. How did you make it look so clean on the end where the light is coming from? (I'm assuming the light source is on the passenger side)

Also, the updated version of the kit (updated 3 months ago) includes the 3M VHB 4905 tape. It was included in mine and I have had zero issues with it since install.

 

[muddie]

Just ordered also for 50% off. This code might still work if anyone wants it: NESTOUR50

Thanks for that. The code worked for me which was great as it saved me a heap. I’m in Australia and the US Amazon listing was going to cost me A$180 including shipping. (They don’t have the product available on the Australian Amazon store.) So I went to the Nestour website and used the code, but they don’t ship outside the US. Luckily I have a mate who lives in Utah so I got it sent to him and he is going to forward it to me. Even with an approximate A$30 FedEx fee to get it to me from his place that will be around A$90 I saved. Hope it’s worth all the run around but the pics look great.

P.S. @GreenHokie I would also love to know the answer to what @ethanfl79 has asked above. It seriously looks like you don’t have one of the light emitters on either end of the dash strip. Where are you hiding it?

 

[dandigangi]

Thanks for that. The code worked for me which was great as it saved me a heap. I’m in Australia and the US Amazon listing was going to cost me A$180 including shipping. (They don’t have the product available on the Australian Amazon store.) So I went to the Nestour website and used the code, but they don’t ship outside the US. Luckily I have a mate who lives in Utah so I got it sent to him and he is going to forward it to me. Even with an approximate A$30 FedEx fee to get it to me from his place that will be around A$90 I saved. Hope it’s worth all the run around but the pics look great.

P.S. @GreenHokie I would also love to know the answer to what @ethanfl79 has asked above. It seriously looks like you don’t have one of the light emitters on either end of the dash strip. Where are you hiding it?

You’re welcome! Enjoy. Mine just came in today. Only took a week and a half coming from China and technically you’re closer than me. Haha

 

[GreenHokie]

Hey guys. Below are a few close-up photos showing each end of my dashboard light tube. In my case, the emitter is located on the passenger side/end.

On the exposed/open end, make sure you start with a section of the tube that is as straight as possible. You’ll probably need to use a heat gun or hair dryer to stretch/straighten out the supplied light tube roll. The supplied roll is plenty long enough, so cut off a little at the end if necessary to get a nice clean, straight starting point.

For best results, clean the mounting surface with rubbing alcohol and also apply some adhesion promoter to the surface. This is absolutely key if you want the light tube to remain straight and not eventually peel/sag over time. Don’t worry, the adhesion promoter will not damage/stain the soft underside of the dashboard. During the install, use the tip I mentioned in my previous post about attaching/running the light tube with your head/eyes ABOVE the dashboard. Once taped on, it’s also a good idea to apply heat to help the 3M tape bond properly to the porous surface of the dashboard. Apply the heat in small sections and then use your fingers to press/hold the light tube against the dashboard for several seconds to get a good bond. Most 3M tapes typically require a little heat and time to bond/cure properly.

On the passenger/emitter end, I think my photos will clearly show how I ran the tube. What is not obvious is how I chose to terminate this end. So here’s the key/tip…
Decide where you want the light to stop and then at this point, make a cut & remove ONLY the flat and round cover/sleeve of the light tube. In case you are not aware, the actual light tube is a separate piece that runs inside the protective sleeve. Exposing the round inner light tube will make it easier for you to make a sharp (90 degree) bend in this area. This will be necessary to get a nice clean install in this area. Before you bend the exposed inner light tube, tape it with black electrical tape. The black tape will prevent light bleed and helps produce the effect that the light suddenly ends at this point… the result is a nice clean light termination point.
Once the electrical tape is applied, use a heat gun to soften the light tube/tape. This will allow you to make a 90 degree bend without damaging the light tube.

Super easy, if you have the patience…

 

[ethanfl79]

Hey guys. Below are a few close-up photos showing each end of my dashboard light tube. In my case, the emitter is located on the passenger side/end.

On the exposed/open end, make sure you start with a section of the tube that is as straight as possible. You’ll probably need to use a heat gun or hair dryer to stretch/straighten out the supplied light tube roll. The supplied roll is plenty long enough, so cut off a little at the end if necessary to get a nice clean, straight starting point.

For best results, clean the mounting surface with rubbing alcohol and also apply some adhesion promoter to the surface. This is absolutely key if you want the light tube to remain straight and not eventually peel/sag over time. Don’t worry, the adhesion promoter will not damage/stain the soft underside of the dashboard. During the install, use the tip I mentioned in my previous post about attaching/running the light tube with your head/eyes ABOVE the dashboard. Once taped on, it’s also a good idea to apply heat to help the 3M tape bond properly to the porous surface of the dashboard. Apply the heat in small sections and then use your fingers to press/hold the light tube against the dashboard for several seconds to get a good bond. Most 3M tapes typically require a little heat and time to bond/cure properly.

On the passenger/emitter end, I think my photos will clearly show how I ran the tube. What is not obvious is how I chose to terminate this end. So here’s the key/tip…
Decide where you want the light to stop and then at this point, make a cut & remove ONLY the flat and round cover/sleeve of the light tube. In case you are not aware, the actual light tube is a separate piece that runs inside the protective sleeve. Exposing the round inner light tube will make it easier for you to make a sharp (90 degree) bend in this area. This will be necessary to get a nice clean install in this area. Before you bend the exposed inner light tube, tape it with black electrical tape. The black tape will prevent light bleed and helps produce the effect that the light suddenly ends at this point… the result is a nice clean light termination point.
Once the electrical tape is applied, use a heat gun to soften the light tube/tape. This will allow you to make a 90 degree bend without damaging the light tube.

Super easy, if you have the patience…

View attachment 740610

View attachment 740611


View attachment 740612

Wow that’s clean, I love that. Thanks for the tips, I’ll be doing this for mine as well!

 

[GreenHokie]

Wow that’s clean, I love that. Thanks for the tips, I’ll be doing this for mine as well!

You’re welcome. Actually, I just thought of a much better way/tip to cover the light tube to prevent light bleed. Forget about the black electrical tape. Instead, use an appropriately sized heat shrink tube. Your local Lowes or Home Depot will carry shrink tubes of various lengths and diameters. Not sure why I didn’t think of this before. It’s so simple and will do a much better job than electrical tape.
I’m gonna go back and do this to mine…

 

[ArchEtech]

Great installs guys I need to look into this.

 

[dandigangi]

Installing today. Ill follow up later.

 

[dandigangi]

You’re welcome. Actually, I just thought of a much better way/tip to cover the light tube to prevent light bleed. Forget about the black electrical tape. Instead, use an appropriately sized heat shrink tube. Your local Lowes or Home Depot will carry shrink tubes of various lengths and diameters. Not sure why I didn’t think of this before. It’s so simple and will do a much better job than electrical tape.
I’m gonna go back and do this to mine…

Any idea what size it would be?

 

[GreenHokie]

Any idea what size it would be?

The light tube from Nestour (and most other manufacturers/kits) is 3.0 mm.
So, choose a shrink tube that is slightly larger.
4 or 5 mm diameter shrink tube should do the trick…

 

[asian_xl]

 

[GreenHokie]

As an update, I decided to return the Nestour kit and replace it with the one from SUMK (also sold on Amazon). As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, the quality/look of SUMK’s light strip is far better than the one from Nestour and just about every other manufacturer/reseller that you see advertised on Amazon, EBay, AliExpress, etc… There is one weakness with the SUMK kit which I touched upon in one of my previous post and we’ll get more into that later. For now, let’s examine what makes the SUMK kit stand out and better.

The key difference is the design/size of the light strip. First, let’s take a look at the light tube from Nestour and everyone else. As shown in the two photos below, this is the type of light tube found in just about all the kits out there. Usually, these kits come with a roll of the light tube. You cut it to the desired length. The ends are bare and thus susceptible to light bleed. Color/light uniformity can be an issue with this type of light tube, especially on longer runs like the dashboard. Some kits are better than others at minimizing this, but in general they are all prone to some light uniformity/inconsistency. Also, during the daytime or when it is not completely dark, you may notice some blockiness in these light tubes. You can sort of see this effect is the second photo from below. I think what is happening is the air gap between the inner tube and outer tube/sleeve is inconsistent in certain areas of the tube. So, in some areas the inner tube makes full contact with the outer tube/sleeve… and in other areas, there is a slight air gap between the two surfaces. Most folks probably won’t notice/see this blockiness effect… until now… Sorry, it’s one of those things that you may not notice at all, but once some clown (like me) tells you about it, you can’t unsee it!!

Now, let’s take a closer look at the light strip from SUMK. Below are some photos.
Some key differences which may or may not be apparent:
-The inner light tube is a smaller diameter. I estimate the diameter of the inner tube to be 2 mm. In most other kits, the inner diameter of the light tube is 3 mm. I believe the smaller inner tube diameter allows for the projected light to be more focused & uniform, especially across longer runs of the light strip.
-The flat/bottom section of the light strip is thinner. This allows SUMK’s light strip to be inserted into tighter gaps/openings between the trim work. The end result is a much cleaner looking install, especially during the day when the lights are not on/visible.
-SUMK’s light strips arrive in much better condition. They are still tied/packaged in a loop, but their light strips are much easier to straighten out. When placed side-by-side with other light tubes, you can definitely tell that the quality of SUMK’s light strips is better. Look closely and you will notice that there is a thin metal wire that is embedded in the flat section of their light strip. It is this thin metal wire that allows you to shape & keep the light strip to whatever form is needed.
-Both ends of SUMK’s light strips are finished with a black rubber or plastic material. See photos below. This gives the ends a nicely finished look and most importantly prevents the excessive light bleed and that annoying bright spot you get at the ends with all other bare ended light tubes.
-Because the ends are finished, that means SUMK’s light strips are pre-cut to fit a particular section of the vehicle/trim. Based on the kit that purchased from SUMK (center console + dashboard), I would say they have done a good job of pre-cutting their light strips to the proper length to fit the intended areas of the Model 3.

Now, for the one weakness of the SUMK kit…. and it’s a big one. Their precut light strip for the dashboard is a 2-piece design. So, it does not run continuously across the length of the dashboard. It is designed to be tucked below that aluminum trim piece located towards the bottom of the dashboard. Well, that aluminum trim piece stops at either side of the center display screen. So, this (on each side of the center display screen) is where the SUMK light strip ends. As as result, the emitter housing will attach to (and be out in the open & visible on) either side of the display screen. That’s not good. But, perhaps the worst looking part is in the area directly above the steering column. Here, SUMK’s light strip just kind of dangles in mid-air because there is a break/gap in the aluminum trim above the steering column. Photo attached below so you can see what I’m trying to describe. I had to adjust/lower the position of my steering column so it did not touch or interfere with where the light strip is intended to run. Ultimately, I felt the light strip in this area just does not look good/clean, so I removed it and decided not to install SUMK’s dashboard lights. I’ve been in communication with SUMK about the shortcomings of their 2-piece dashboard design. I think they are aware this is not ideal and it appears they are in the process of changing their design/kit to have a single 1-piece light strip for the dashboard. Hopefully, they will make that change soon because the rest of their kit (especially their light strip design) is absolutely one of the best out there.

So, I did not install SUMK’s dashboard lights but did install/use their center console lights. Photo below. Because of their unique light strip design, this is a much cleaner and more refined look (both during the day and especially at night) than what I had/saw with Nestour and some of the other kits out there. I’ve also attached some additional photos showing SUMK’s controller and emitter design. Not sure if their controller/emitter is any better than the rest. One thing to note is their cigarette adapter is shorter than those found in the other kits. This is important/relevant because the tray in the armrest does not touch or press up against the power button on their cigarette adapter. On the Nestour and other kits, the cigarette adapter is longer. As a result, the armrest tray would always touch the power button, which would cause the lights to turn on and off when not intended.
Initially, I felt SUMK’s 2-piece dashboard lights were a deal-breaker, so I was going to return their kit and keep the Nestour one. However, once I realized how much cleaner and better looking SUMK’s light strips are compared to Nestour and all others, I decided I can live without the dashboard lights for now. Hopefully, SUMK will change their kit and offer a 1-piece dashboard light strip in the near future. In the meantime, I’m definitely keeping/using their center console lights. I highly recommended the SUMK kit if you are picky about these things and want a cleaner, more refined look (and don’t mind not using the dashboard lights).
No, I’m in no way affiliated with SUMK and get nothing in return for this review. Purchased this kit from Amazon with my own money. Really just another nerd/perfectionist who felt the urge to write a long-ass review, so others may benefit from it.
Happy to answer any questions the rest of you nerds may have.

 

[muddie]

In the spirit of sharing I thought I would talk about my install like @GreenHokie has been but from a different perspective. Rather than talk about the installation of the light strips specifically I am going to show you how I hid all the extra wire leads and the control box etc. so it is all completely invisible even from inside the centre console. After I installed the lights I was really unhappy with the amount of wires that were visible going into the back half of the centre console and also when you opened it up seeing the rats nest of wires in there that made it pretty much useless for anything else.

So I set about rectifying that. Just a few points before I start. I have installed the Nestor version. It was enough of a hassle getting that one to me here in Australia having to get my mate in the US to forward it to me etc. that I was happy to just go with it and not try the SUMK version @GreenHokie recommended.

Also as I am in Australia I have a right hand drive car so if the photos look flipped or I refer below to the passenger side and it looks like it's the left side of the car you know why. If you are following these instructions in a left hand drive country just reverse everything accordingly.

So the short version is that I hid everything in the underside back of the centre console down where the OBD port and rear air vents are.
This image was taken after I installed everything. It's all in there and as you can see there are no visible wires coming up the sides or in the bottom or from behind the trim.

This photo is of the inside of the console where the 12v plug is. This is the only visible wire and hole.

If I was to do anything different I would drill that hole down further so it was below the liner. I just wasn't sure if I could get to the back of it if it was lower but I later found out I could.

So how did I do it? Let's start with the footwell lights. The wires for them run under the trim that goes on either side of the console. That is as per normal installation instructions but rather than run the ends up around the back of the console and over the top into the console compartment I drilled holes here (Look at the image below) so the wires could run into the back underside of the console where I put everything else. When the trim is locked back into place you can't see anything from the outside at all. Note for this section is that you have to disconnect the wires from the LED footwell lights and feed them from the back side of that hole out, and then run them under the trim to the front and reconnect them. Otherwise there is no way to get it through such a small hole.

Here is a photo of the other side. This one has the passenger side footwell light wire and also the light strip that goes around the console going through it. That way the entire silver light emitter for that strip is also hidden inside the rear of the console. The light strip is sagging a bit in this photo but that is just because I have pulled the trim out to show you. When the trim is locked in place the light strip sits up where it should. All the ends have been heat shrink wrapped as per @GreenHokie suggestion to prevent light leakage.

So now onto the light strips from the dash and around the seat backs.
The dash strip wire goes behind the trim on the side like @GreenHokie has already shown in previous posts. This is my side view here but it was taken after I put the trim back on.

The light emitter is hidden behind there and the wire goes under the door trim all the way down and along the bottom to come out where the carpet break is under the seat. I don't have an image of that but there is a factory split/overlap in the carpet around the centre point of the seat rail. The wire can go out from under the door trim and under the carpet, under the seat rail without being visible at all from any angle.

The seat back light strips go around from the outside in so both light emitters are on the inside closest to the console. I ran the wires and placed the emitters down this part here.

That way no wires were visible from behind or beside the seats. Extra fibre optic tube was once again covered in black heat shrink to stop light from overflowing. One thing I did do though was position the emitters in such a way that the light that comes out from the clear locking screws shone up the side of the seatbelt buckles. That way at night there is a subtle glow to help you see where the buckle is.

So the wires from the seats and dashboard are all now under the seats. I bundled up any excess wire and hid it under the carpet. The ends then went under the rail and carpet around the bottom of the console and in down where the OBD port is. Pictured below:

So make sure the wires go under the seat rails, not over them, and then lift up this bit of carpet and you can tuck the wires under that and into the OBD port hole. Do the same on the other side.

This next photo is of the back of the console with the trim and vents taken off and with all the wires stowed away.
Above the air vent hole is the excess wire and light emitter from the console light strip, the wires from the foot well lights, and the control box and wiring harness. All that is routed there from the holes in the sides under the trim and the power wire hole from inside the console you will remember. By the way I have had no issues at all connecting to it with my phone even though the control box is stowed away in here.

Down the bottom under the OBD connector you can see (it's a bit out of focus I know) where the wires from the dash and seat back light strips come up from under the carpet and around the side of the air vent to the control box above.

That's it. Once the trim is put back on for this section it looks like the first photo in this post. You would never know that all that wire was tucked away in there and the rear well of the console compartments is still perfectly usable for regular storage with no unsightly rats nest of wires in there.

I'm really happy with the way it all turned out. The only thing you may need to think about to suit your installation is how the wires disconnect from each other. In the Nestor kit the power cord disconnects from the main control box, the light strip cords all have connectors you can undo at the control box end and the footwell lights all disconnect from the LED lights. This way I was able to route the wires through the small holes I drilled as they all disconnected.

If you have any questions I'd be happy to try and answer them.