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Model 3 got hit on the side today!

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timk225

Active Member
Mar 24, 2016
2,140
2,486
Pittsburgh
Some idiot wasn't paying attention and bounced his truck off the side of my 3 today. It was a low speed less than 10 mph hit, but any marks on my car are too many marks.

This'll be a multi-part series on my YT channel, here's the first video of the damage.

After I pulled over, the tire was losing air pressure. Somehow the valve cap had gotten smooshed into the valve stem so hard it must have been pressing the valve a bit. I couldn't just unscrew the cap, I had to use a tool to cut the valve cap off, and I think it stopped leaking now. Gonna want a new wheel, this one is all scratched up.

I already called Tesla and the insurance company and got the police report, but it's Saturday evening and nothing will happen until Monday. "The other vehicle" was a '17 Chevrolet pickup truck, the side of his front bumper is dented and has white paint on it.

 
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Some idiot wasn't paying attention and bounced his truck off the side of my 3 today. It was a low speed less than 10 mph hit, but any marks on my car are too many marks.

This'll be a multi-part series on my YT channel, here's the first video of the damage.

After I pulled over, the tire was losing air pressure. Somehow the valve cap had gotten smooshed into the valve stem so hard it must have been pressing the valve a bit. I couldn't just unscrew the cap, I had to use a tool to cut the valve cap off, and I think it stopped leaking now. Gonna want a new wheel, this one is all scratched up.

I already called Tesla and the insurance company and got the police report, but it's Saturday evening and nothing will happen until Monday. "The other vehicle" was a '17 Chevrolet pickup truck, the side of his front bumper is dented and has white paint on it.
Aluminium cannot be flatten so the full quarter panel needs to be replaced.

The body shop might try to cut the panel around the rear triangle windows.
Otherwise if they replace the full panel, they will have to remove the glass roof.

Sad story, at least it was not an hit and run.
 
Aluminium cannot be flatten so the full quarter panel needs to be replaced.

According to the old multi-color photos we used to see showing which metals are in the Model 3, this outer panel is mild steel, But the inner quarter behind it is aluminum. Depends on if it got dented or not. The original sheet metal stamping is the entire side of the car, to include the rocket panel, along the roof, between the doors, and the quarter itself all in one big piece.

I'd prefer to see them cut out the entire quarter panel and replace it, seems like the best way to do it. We'll see what happens.

I've seen the old insurance game in action before with other peoples' cars, one thing I will NOT do is take the first "easy quick resolution" check they give open seeing a photo. I've seen that in the tv commercials too.

It would have been easier if the front fender got hit like this, just bolt on a new one and done except for paint. With the quarter they have to cut and paste (or cut and weld).
 
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Some idiot wasn't paying attention and bounced his truck off the side of my 3 today. It was a low speed less than 10 mph hit, but any marks on my car are too many marks.

This'll be a multi-part series on my YT channel, here's the first video of the damage.

After I pulled over, the tire was losing air pressure. Somehow the valve cap had gotten smooshed into the valve stem so hard it must have been pressing the valve a bit. I couldn't just unscrew the cap, I had to use a tool to cut the valve cap off, and I think it stopped leaking now. Gonna want a new wheel, this one is all scratched up.

I already called Tesla and the insurance company and got the police report, but it's Saturday evening and nothing will happen until Monday. "The other vehicle" was a '17 Chevrolet pickup truck, the side of his front bumper is dented and has white paint on it.


Oh...I'm so sorry to see that. I know that hurts.

You are like me. One little mark is a grand canyon.

I hope the quarter panel gets replaced soon.

Since you can drive it....it might only be a 1 week adventure in the certified body shop to replace it.
 
According to the old multi-color photos we used to see showing which metals are in the Model 3, this outer panel is mild steel, But the inner quarter behind it is aluminum. Depends on if it got dented or not. The original sheet metal stamping is the entire side of the car, to include the rocket panel, along the roof, between the doors, and the quarter itself all in one big piece.

I'd prefer to see them cut out the entire quarter panel and replace it, seems like the best way to do it. We'll see what happens.

I've seen the old insurance game in action before with other peoples' cars, one thing I will NOT do is take the first "easy quick resolution" check they give open seeing a photo. I've seen that in the tv commercials too.

It would have been easier if the front fender got hit like this, just bolt on a new one and done except for paint. With the quarter they have to cut and paste (or cut and weld).

Tesla certified body shops only replace parts. They don't patch or repair anything.

99.9% chance they will replace that quarter panel.
 
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Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself, but it is the weekend and I have nothing better to do. Let's talk about the diminished value settlement that I should have coming. I don't think that anyone can argue that the car won't be worth less upon trade-in or resale, even for a minor accident. PA is a state that supports diminished value claims, do we have any insurance experts here?

My insurance is through Grange / Everest insurance and the accident damage causer is with State Farm.
 
Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself, but it is the weekend and I have nothing better to do. Let's talk about the diminished value settlement that I should have coming. I don't think that anyone can argue that the car won't be worth less upon trade-in or resale, even for a minor accident. PA is a state that supports diminished value claims, do we have any insurance experts here?

My insurance is through Grange / Everest insurance and the accident damage causer is with State Farm.

I’m assuming that your insurance plan does not offer diminished value coverage as part of their plan. I’ve never heard of one that does.

So for you to claim diminished value you will first have to prove that the other driver was 100% at fault. Assuming you can do that, you can hire an appraiser who specializes in assessing diminished values to give you an appraisal and then go after State Farm for the amount. They will fight against it hard. And you may have to hire an attorney to pursue them. So depending on how much diminished value we are talking about it may or may not be worth the effort. Generally when an entire panel is damaged and replaced the diminished value is small since the part that was damaged was completely removed and replaced with a brand new one.
 
I went through quarter panel (driver side) replacement episode that lasted over 4 months last year due to the long wait for parts in a no fault state so I can tell you pretty much everything. I did buy my car in PA but we drove it cross country to the west.

1) First things first, have the other party admit fault. Nothing and I mean literally nothing else takes precedence. Once they do, read on.

2) I’m not sure how long you’ll wait for parts but only take your car in when they place an order for parts. Also, do not listen to the insurance‘s suggestions. You pick the body shop and even the appraisal place if you can.

3) if the car is driveable, drive it. Your sensors are probably shot but it’s alright. If the car isn’t drive able, get a rental. Typically, your insurance will cover a month and their insurance may cover a month. That may not be enough if parts are on back order. Negotiate with the third party insurance. Don’t be greedy about what kind of car you need. You need a car. And that’s about it.

4) The glass roof is going to break when they remove the quarter panel. Add that to your time estimate. Almost certain that they’ll need to order and replace that too.

5) Pick a place that has worked on white cars before. That color is hard to match but most reputable places do a great job.

6) The accident may not go to carfax if no police report was submitted. Mine didn’t. Just FYI.

7) Diminished value - you won’t win here so do not be greedy. I got $5K for a $18k repairs for a $40k car. Take what you can and walk away.

8) Your mind will fill with thoughts of regret and wanting to sell the car after the repairs. It’s normal. This car is a bit of a headache with accidents. But it’ll be done. It’ll be like new again. But you have a long wait ahead of you. I can’t imagine with the pandemic the parts are readily going to be available. You may get lucky.

9) if you total it then all the bets are off. But highly unlikely.

Good luck.
 
Answers to questions posed, mostly by billionaire:

1. the idiot driver admitted fault, and I agreed with him, and the police put it in the report. I have the code to crashdocs.org but the report isn't showing yet.

2. when I talked to Tesla last night, they sent me a link to certified body shops. The local Wexford Service Center is on the list, and that's where I'd prefer the work be done. I would think they are best for appraisals and all the needed work. As fully Tesla a place as possible. I'm hoping for a used Model S loaner, they have some older S's sitting around for that purpose.

3. the car is drivable, but I had to drive it home about 3 miles with 10 psi in the left rear tire, so now it has the heat damage marks on that tire. Now and then I think the alignment is quirked a bit. Other than that it is fully drivable, but with Tesla elitism being what it is, I feel it is unseemly and unbecoming to have the car on the road with even light body damage. Also with the damaged tire, it is probably a bad idea to drive at my usual speeds.

4. if the glass roof needs changed, I don't care. Do it. Charge it to the other guys' insurance.

5. diminished value - I was thinking that $5000 in compensation would be reasonable, so if I get that, I'll be happy. This is a $50K car, and no matter how well it's done, a future buyer will only see that it was damaged and not consider the nuances of the situation. I have photos and video already.

I'm sure I'll get phone calls tomorrow, so we will see what Tesla and the insurance company say.
 
Answers to questions posed, mostly by billionaire:

1. the idiot driver admitted fault, and I agreed with him, and the police put it in the report. I have the code to crashdocs.org but the report isn't showing yet.

2. when I talked to Tesla last night, they sent me a link to certified body shops. The local Wexford Service Center is on the list, and that's where I'd prefer the work be done. I would think they are best for appraisals and all the needed work. As fully Tesla a place as possible. I'm hoping for a used Model S loaner, they have some older S's sitting around for that purpose.

3. the car is drivable, but I had to drive it home about 3 miles with 10 psi in the left rear tire, so now it has the heat damage marks on that tire. Now and then I think the alignment is quirked a bit. Other than that it is fully drivable, but with Tesla elitism being what it is, I feel it is unseemly and unbecoming to have the car on the road with even light body damage. Also with the damaged tire, it is probably a bad idea to drive at my usual speeds.

4. if the glass roof needs changed, I don't care. Do it. Charge it to the other guys' insurance.

5. diminished value - I was thinking that $5000 in compensation would be reasonable, so if I get that, I'll be happy. This is a $50K car, and no matter how well it's done, a future buyer will only see that it was damaged and not consider the nuances of the situation. I have photos and video already.

I'm sure I'll get phone calls tomorrow, so we will see what Tesla and the insurance company say.

Also, about calling the other driver an idiot etc... I know precisely how you’re feeling right now BUT, I suggest that you get any leftover anger and frustration in check and move past it as quickly as possible and most importantly, don’t let that anger show anywhere such as the body shop etc. And I’ll tell you why - this is just the beginning of potentially MONTHS of waiting before your car is back to normal. People will work with you if you’re willing to work with them levelheaded. It is an expensive car but being that doesn’t exempt it from getting into an accident. This is a pretty significant risk buying a Tesla. I’ve posted it on this forum elsewhere. Unfortunately that risk has materialized for you and I. You’ll live.

some others are asking you to demand an expensive car and what not - this is exactly what I don’t suggest you do. Work with people to solve your actual problem - lack of a vehicle. And yes, even if you feel entitled because the other driver is at fault or whatever, the insurance company is going to treat you like the other thousands of cases they get. Oh and one last thing - your insurance is only there in cases where you’re at fault. That’s why you’re paying them. When you’re not at fault, they are not even in the picture. As a courtesy they may give you a month of rental and that’s about it. You work directly and only with the third party’s insurance.
 
Monday update.

My insurance called me today and we went over all the details. I told them how the other driver admitted fault to the police and it'll be in the accident report, and told my side of the story. I was not mad or demanding anything. I have read stories here in the past how it takes a long time to get fixed, and don't think my situation will be much different. At least the car is driveable, so that makes things better.

I'm not going to demand any particular sort of car. If the Wexford service center has an older Model S, that'll be fine. If I have to rent a.... GASOLINE car for a while, well.... err... I guess I'll survive.

My insurance person said they are sending me a link and an email to take and upload some crash damage photos to them. They said they are going to send me a check quickly. I'm in no hurry to get a check. My Tesla Service Center appointment isn't until 7/28, and I am certain their estimate will be far higher. I am concerned about getting tricked into something and the insurance says "Oh no, you took that small check, case closed". Even if they send me a check I will not cash it.

Any tips for this part of the process?
 
Monday update.

My insurance called me today and we went over all the details. I told them how the other driver admitted fault to the police and it'll be in the accident report, and told my side of the story. I was not mad or demanding anything. I have read stories here in the past how it takes a long time to get fixed, and don't think my situation will be much different. At least the car is driveable, so that makes things better.

I'm not going to demand any particular sort of car. If the Wexford service center has an older Model S, that'll be fine. If I have to rent a.... GASOLINE car for a while, well.... err... I guess I'll survive.

My insurance person said they are sending me a link and an email to take and upload some crash damage photos to them. They said they are going to send me a check quickly. I'm in no hurry to get a check. My Tesla Service Center appointment isn't until 7/28, and I am certain their estimate will be far higher. I am concerned about getting tricked into something and the insurance says "Oh no, you took that small check, case closed". Even if they send me a check I will not cash it.

Any tips for this part of the process?

Under no circumstances should you accept any checks from the insurance company, even it is a million dollars, period. That’s a recipe for disaster. Have the body shop deal with the insurance directly. You just want - 1) your car back as good as new, 2) a rental car until it’s done, 3) And of course, the diminished value compensation. You don’t want any other payouts here.

It’s just an accident. That’s what insurance and body shops are there for. Let them deal with each other. Stay out of it until the car is done. Also, they will not start diminished value settlement until the final repairs are done because they won’t know until then how much it’ll cost. Don’t push it. They’ll turn you away. Be nice in those negotiations, be patient, and you might see some compensation. You won’t sign waiver until that’s done so the insurance will make sure that they settle it with you. They won’t leave it hanging.