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Model 3 mud guards

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What did you do to get the tight gap between the front mudguards and the side of the vehicle? No matter how much I manipulated the bottom of mine where the attachment would be made I always had a 2-3mm gap and was very concerned I would trap sand/salt there so I opted not to install.

Did you PPF those areas prior to installation?

I didn't do anything special to close a gap. Everything just installed tightly by itself.

No PPF on fender or anything.
 
Custom steering wheel? White seat covers?

I said that one, but I guess it wasn't correct ....

Answer:

The red Tesla T's on the center caps are ALWAYS straight up and down.

The center part of the wheel center caps spins around and is weighted to keep the red Tesla T's straight up and down on all 4 wheels at all times.

 
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Answer:

The red Tesla T's on the center caps are ALWAYS straight up and down.

The center part of the wheel center caps spins around and is weighted to keep the red Tesla T's straight up and down on all 4 wheels at all times.


Oh man, that's really cool. But then you'll rarely have it the way that all of the Model 3 with the Sport Wheels come from the factory: with the bottom of the "T" pointing towards the valve stem....Bet most people that have the 19" or 20" wheels didn't catch that on their cars. I'm crazy OCD with things like that and when I took delivery of my car, I noticed that all of the center caps were pointing "correctly" with the bottom of the "T" pointing towards the valve stem. At one point prior to one of my visits to the SC, I purposely changed 3 of them around. When I got the car back, one of the things they checked was to torque the wheels lugs to specs, even though I didn't have any work that would require removing the wheels. And sure enough, all 4 of the caps were adjusted correctly. Ok, so maybe there was a tech there that is OCD about things like that. But in subsequent visits to the SC, all without requiring wheel work, they've always adjusted the caps to point "correctly."

Funny related story to this, was I read how a photo journalist was over in Toronto for the unveiling of the Porsche Taycan a few weeks ago. So, wanting to photograph a closeup of the wheels, he knew that most cars you can easily turn the small center caps to right the symbol, which, when taking a photo of a wheel, you'd like to have the symbol right up. As he was doing this, a Porsche representative calmly asked what he was doing. After the journalist explained what he was doing, the rep advised that all Porsches come from the factory with the symbol correctly installed with the bottom point of the crest pointing towards the valve stem. The journalist was shocked at this. And as I was reading this article, I was like Pfffff.... Tesla's been doing that all along.

-- Cintoman
 
Answer:

The red Tesla T's on the center caps are ALWAYS straight up and down.

The center part of the wheel center caps spins around and is weighted to keep the red Tesla T's straight up and down on all 4 wheels at all times.

That is so cool - I didn't even know they had something like that !! Thanks for the brain teaser as it helps my retired brain get some exercise....
 
Just a heads up for those who used the provided hardware, specifically the screws on front. Mine have been installed for about 3 months and the screws are rusted significantly like there was no coating, zinc or otherwise.

I will probably just drill the holes large enough for the plastic rivets and use those to join the two plastic pieces when the screws fail (or I get tired of looking at the only rusted thing on my car).
 
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I would guess depends who made those splash guards, two of them have clip snap into the inner fender...


Tesla Painted splash guards — Postimage.org

Rear Splash Guards clip location:

rear splash guard clip.jpg
 
Just a heads up for those who used the provided hardware, specifically the screws on front. Mine have been installed for about 3 months and the screws are rusted significantly like there was no coating, zinc or otherwise.

I will probably just drill the holes large enough for the plastic rivets and use those to join the two plastic pieces when the screws fail (or I get tired of looking at the only rusted thing on my car).

My screws started rusting the day after I mounted them. I've since had to tape around the screws and spray paint them 2x already. I might do the same eventually...just make the holes bigger and use the plastic rivets.

--Cintoman
 
I ended up going with the Basenor Amazon Mud Flaps. I didn't want to drill a hole in the front fenders so I just used double sided 3M tape on the side edges. If that can hold on my spoiler, I'm sure it will hold these on. I just put on the tape without removing the backing, then pulled a bit of the backing to created a pig tails on the red part of the tape and then screwed it on. When it was secure on the bottom, just pulled the pig tail from the 3M tape and pushed down. Worked great.

Would you mind elaborating a bit more on how you installed it using the the tape? I'm about to install the two front mud flaps but don't want to screw into the liner. Just a bit confused on how exactly you did it with the 3M double sided tape.