Go to the energy screen and press the Park tab to see what is consuming energy while the car is parked.
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Model 3 SR+ LFP Battery Range, Degradation, etc Discussion
- Thread starter Baluchi
- Start date
I picked up a 2023 M3 RWD LFP in early April and I have been just charging it to 100 as much as possible. I’m curious, how are others really charging the LFP pack? Are you all still only going to 80-90 percent and to 100 maybe once a week or so?
I’m getting conflicting information online.
I want to keep the battery as healthy as possible!
Thanks.
I’m getting conflicting information online.
I want to keep the battery as healthy as possible!
Thanks.
These notes are from the manual. Charge regularly to 100%.
Note
For vehicles with Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) high voltage Batteries, Tesla recommends you keep your charge limit to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge your vehicle to 100% at least once per week. To determine if your vehicle is equipped with an LFP battery, navigate to Controls > Software > Additional Vehicle Information. If your vehicle has an LFP Battery, "High Voltage Battery type: Lithium Iron Phosphate" is listed. If your vehicle does not have an LFP Battery, the high voltage Battery type is not specified. See Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries for more information.
If your vehicle is equipped with an LFP Battery, Tesla recommends that you keep your charge limit set to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge to 100% at least once per week. If Model 3 has been parked for longer than a week, Tesla recommends driving as you normally would and charge to 100% at your earliest convenience.
In addition, a best practice is to allow Model 3 to "sleep" regularly by parking it with Sentry Mode disabled, when possible. Consider using the Exclude Home, Exclude Work, and Exclude Favorites settings to prevent Sentry Mode from automatically activating at locations it is not needed (see How to Use Sentry Mode (Camera + App)).
Following the above guidance maximizes available range and improves the vehicle's ability to accurately determine the state of charge and estimated range.
Note
Although Tesla recommends charging to 100% at least once per week, remember that regenerative braking is reduced while driving with a fully charged battery. See Regenerative Braking.
Note
For vehicles with Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) high voltage Batteries, Tesla recommends you keep your charge limit to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge your vehicle to 100% at least once per week. To determine if your vehicle is equipped with an LFP battery, navigate to Controls > Software > Additional Vehicle Information. If your vehicle has an LFP Battery, "High Voltage Battery type: Lithium Iron Phosphate" is listed. If your vehicle does not have an LFP Battery, the high voltage Battery type is not specified. See Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries for more information.
Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries
Some vehicles are equipped with a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) Battery. To determine if your vehicle is equipped with an LFP battery, navigate to Controls > Software > Additional Vehicle Information. If your vehicle is equipped with an LFP battery, "High Voltage Battery type: Lithium Iron Phosphate" is listed. If your vehicle does not have an LFP battery, the high voltage Battery type is not specified.If your vehicle is equipped with an LFP Battery, Tesla recommends that you keep your charge limit set to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge to 100% at least once per week. If Model 3 has been parked for longer than a week, Tesla recommends driving as you normally would and charge to 100% at your earliest convenience.
In addition, a best practice is to allow Model 3 to "sleep" regularly by parking it with Sentry Mode disabled, when possible. Consider using the Exclude Home, Exclude Work, and Exclude Favorites settings to prevent Sentry Mode from automatically activating at locations it is not needed (see How to Use Sentry Mode (Camera + App)).
Following the above guidance maximizes available range and improves the vehicle's ability to accurately determine the state of charge and estimated range.
Note
Although Tesla recommends charging to 100% at least once per week, remember that regenerative braking is reduced while driving with a fully charged battery. See Regenerative Braking.
Going by what you show and I show (both at 424 KMS displayed at 100%) looks like it is as they say.
More based on Calendar aging and not charging cycles or km's driven. As you have many more cycles than I do based on mileage.
More based on Calendar aging and not charging cycles or km's driven. As you have many more cycles than I do based on mileage.
There are super long and detailed posts in the battery sub forum about this. Go check it out.
TLDR summary: for the least battery degradation over the long term, while also ensuring the battery management system has an accurate read on battery capacity, charge to 70% daily and 100% once a week
Go check out the long discussions for all the nuances and reasons why you might want to do that, or modify it for your own needs.
TLDR summary: for the least battery degradation over the long term, while also ensuring the battery management system has an accurate read on battery capacity, charge to 70% daily and 100% once a week
Go check out the long discussions for all the nuances and reasons why you might want to do that, or modify it for your own needs.
And choose your 100% charge day to be when you drive enough to bring it down to 70% or lower at the end of the day.
My model 3 RWD at 50,000kms (31,000 miles) in 14 months;
full charge shows 423kms (262 miles)
full charge shows 423kms (262 miles)
We have ours since Feb 2022 and been charging to 100% all the time except when we go on vacation and rely on Superchargers.
Its OK to charge as Tesla say, of course.
Tesla will not give you information of what strategy that gives the least degradation. Instead they will use as few "do not's" as possible, to make it easy to own a Tesla. They also will prioritize to minimize the risk of getting stranded because the BMS (batteri computer) has lost track of the energy amount in the battery.
So, follow Teslas advice and you will not have any problem.
50,000 mile (80,000 km) update for my Sep 2021 SR+ LFP (though I'm a little late, and the car is closer to 51k miles). The car is now 20 months old and was originally rated at 253 miles on a full charge. The Tessie app shows a battery capacity of 51.8 kWh (down 5.2% from my original 23 Oct 2021 post of 54.6 kWh), and a max range of 240 miles (down 5.2% from my original range of 253 miles, and down one mile since my 45,000 update). I've had Tessie since my first day or two or ownership, so this data shows the entire life of the car.
According to the car's screen, I'm averaging 212 Wh/mi over the life of the car (the same as it was at the 45,000 mile update). Seasonal temps and driving style are HUGE when it comes to the car's efficiency. In the winter I can expect 240+ Wh/mi when it's below 30f, and in ideal temps (75-85f) I routinely manage under 200 Wh/mi on my 100 mile round-trip commute. Assuming I could tap into the current 52.0 kWh battery at my lifetime average 212 Wh/mi efficiency, that gives me a real-world range of 244.3 miles.
My charging is mostly Level 2 from a Grizzl-E delivering 24 amps on a 40 amp circuit in my garage. I charge almost every day/night due to a long commute, typically to about 60-80% a few times per week and a 100% once or twice a week. I do fast charge about once per week on average because I'm a beekeeper and I make honey deliveries across a few counties most weekends (going to do that after I post this, in fact)...I use both Superchargers and CCS chargers like Electrify America or Chargepoint, depending on which are more convenient at the time.
Driving the same distance in my old Ford Focus would've cost $4,794 in gasoline. It's difficult to do fuel cost comparisons now, because since I installed solar panels my fuel is mostly free. If I'd kept my 2012 Ford Focus (37mpg), I would've used 1,377 gallons of gas to travel these 50,979 miles. At about 19 pounds of CO2 per gallon, that would've been 26,163 pounds of CO2. Prior to getting solar, my carbon emissions were about 35% of what I would've released in my efficient little Focus. But now that I have solar, that number is near zero, and it's pushing the car's lifetime average down every day.
This shows the solar power I generate in full sun--about 9 kw--compared to the 6 kw my car uses while charging in my garage. So I try to optimize my charge schedule to the daytime now (same goes for laundry, dishwasher, etc). On a good sunny day, I'll generate about 70 kWh from the sun. On a cloudy day, it's closer to 35 kWh. For comparison, I use 20-22 kWh for my daily commute. We're really happy with our solar, and I can't recommend it enough if you've got the space and finances to do it. I see it this way--we spent less than what people pay for an average new car to get free, clean energy for the rest of our lives.
I'll try to post another update at 55,000 miles.
According to the car's screen, I'm averaging 212 Wh/mi over the life of the car (the same as it was at the 45,000 mile update). Seasonal temps and driving style are HUGE when it comes to the car's efficiency. In the winter I can expect 240+ Wh/mi when it's below 30f, and in ideal temps (75-85f) I routinely manage under 200 Wh/mi on my 100 mile round-trip commute. Assuming I could tap into the current 52.0 kWh battery at my lifetime average 212 Wh/mi efficiency, that gives me a real-world range of 244.3 miles.
My charging is mostly Level 2 from a Grizzl-E delivering 24 amps on a 40 amp circuit in my garage. I charge almost every day/night due to a long commute, typically to about 60-80% a few times per week and a 100% once or twice a week. I do fast charge about once per week on average because I'm a beekeeper and I make honey deliveries across a few counties most weekends (going to do that after I post this, in fact)...I use both Superchargers and CCS chargers like Electrify America or Chargepoint, depending on which are more convenient at the time.
Driving the same distance in my old Ford Focus would've cost $4,794 in gasoline. It's difficult to do fuel cost comparisons now, because since I installed solar panels my fuel is mostly free. If I'd kept my 2012 Ford Focus (37mpg), I would've used 1,377 gallons of gas to travel these 50,979 miles. At about 19 pounds of CO2 per gallon, that would've been 26,163 pounds of CO2. Prior to getting solar, my carbon emissions were about 35% of what I would've released in my efficient little Focus. But now that I have solar, that number is near zero, and it's pushing the car's lifetime average down every day.
This shows the solar power I generate in full sun--about 9 kw--compared to the 6 kw my car uses while charging in my garage. So I try to optimize my charge schedule to the daytime now (same goes for laundry, dishwasher, etc). On a good sunny day, I'll generate about 70 kWh from the sun. On a cloudy day, it's closer to 35 kWh. For comparison, I use 20-22 kWh for my daily commute. We're really happy with our solar, and I can't recommend it enough if you've got the space and finances to do it. I see it this way--we spent less than what people pay for an average new car to get free, clean energy for the rest of our lives.
I'll try to post another update at 55,000 miles.
Did’nt the first LFPs with 55.1 kWh battery have 262 miles (423km) EPA range, and the range was updated at some point?
Like this:
In that case, do we know the rated consumption/charging constant?
Would be nice to calculate the nominal full pack value and compare with Tessies calculation.
The 51.8kWh is including the buffer evennif Tessie themself does not know this.
I have to say that your efficiency is amazing. In my LR RWD, my average is around 240-250 Wh/mi with nice temps. Don't think I've ever seen a round-trip of any distance below 200 Wh/mi, never mind that over 100 miles with consistency (any longer trip around here is either freeway at 70-80 mph or hilly backcountry from 35-60 mph).
It's confusing, but the very first LFP cars sold in the US had a 253 mile range. These had to be claimed from inventory, but couldn't be configured on the website. They were delivering these at the same time they were delivering the nickel cars with a 262 mile range, so I've oddly got a window sticker that says 262.
Is there something I can do to test or answer the second part of your comment?
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Available via energy screen line minus 5, or the other ways of calculating it (there are four that I know of, I think…have described elsewhere). Can also do proj range * recent Wh/mi / rated miles remaining.
It seems from this description they perhaps some were not! The thread on this suggests some did change from 253 to 262. But not all maybe?
To be clear, the NCA packs with heat pump were sold with 263.
Thanks, thats good ”news” (forgot about that line). Its very good to have your knowledge around
Then we can get a value of the capacity to compare with Tessies number.
As it looks by the teslalogger data the main number of cars started at 423km.
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